The latest collections of Riccardo Quiet for Givenchy. Riccardo Tisci leaves Givenchy fashion brand

Ricardo Tisci finally showed his first collection for Burberry. If we talk about the changes for which the brand management started personnel changes, then they certainly happened. Ricardo's debut is very different from what his predecessor Christopher Bailey (who served as creative director for 17 years) did. Good or bad, time will tell and sales. For now, let's figure out what the designer wanted to say with all this.

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They say that while working on the debut collection, Tishi carefully studied the history of Burberry, 162 years long. It has a lot of encrypted meanings: for example, the unicorn, which everyone was so surprised at during the show, was a symbol of the brand even before the horse (look for the old logo).

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All British

There are a lot of stereotypes about England and the English. But the thing is that these stereotypes are dearly loved by them - stiffness, monarchy, five o "clock tea, rains and so on. Ricardo tried to reflect in the collection a variety of layers of British culture - from rural life to punk - and went through the stereotypes. From here "cow" prints, umbrellas chained to the body, patent leather raincoats, quotes from Shakespeare on T-shirts, and numerous pullovers, to which Ricardo for some reason decided to sew the skirts of his jacket. the passport.

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Bambi

Ricardo Tisci has a very special relationship with Bambi. T-shirts and neoprene sweatshirts with cartoon deer that Ricardo made for Givenchy were very popular in their time and still sell well. In the debut collection of Burberry, Bambi also could not have done - a number of things are decorated with a print imitating deer wool, and on one pullover you can see the inscription Why Did They Kill Bambi. The phrase can be interpreted in different ways. Firstly, this is a kind of industry call for humanism - we recall that at the suggestion of Tisha, the British house refused to use natural fur and angora. Secondly, the deer itself is associated with England, with the tradition of hunting (again, a hint of cruelty and a call to humanism), with aristocrats, and so on. Thirdly, Why Did They Kill Bambi is the title of a song by the British band Sex Pistols, which was written for the film of the same name (it was supposed to be an answer to the rock and roll A Hard Day's Night).

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And what about raincoats and a cage?

These typical Burberry elements are present, of course. But there are not too many of them. The same Gosha Rubchinsky, in his collaboration with the British house, exploited the most recognizable much more. Ricardo also experimented with the style of the raincoat - in the collection, along with trench coats, there are many parkas and windbreakers. And he used the famous cage, first of all, on the lining, where it should be.

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Massive attack

The soundtrack for the show was recorded by the legendary Bristol band Massive Attack. Ricardo Tisci proudly announced this in instagram before the show even starts. The composition needed a long one - the show lasted almost 20 minutes, despite the fact that the auditorium was organized as a labyrinth with several podiums perpendicular to each other, along which the models walked at the same time, which significantly saves time.

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And no wonder. Shows at Burberry are dual - men's and women's lines make up one collection. So, on this show there were no less than 134 exits (you can see the entire collection). You don't see that at every Chanel show. I wonder now if it will be possible to sell the first drop (go shopping to instagram brand) within 24 hours, as mandated by Burberry's new commercial strategy. It is no longer possible to destroy the unsold.

Loud reshuffles in the fashion world continue. 2017, the anniversary year for Givenchy, founded in 1952, began with a scandal: Ricardo Tisci, who had determined the face of the house since the mid-2000s, decided to leave.

Rumors that Ricardo Tisci will leave the post of creative director of the house began to circulate on January 31 and were confirmed on February 2. According to one version, the reason for the departure of the great designer was the intrigues of his girlfriend Donatella Versace, who allegedly managed to finally lure him to her.

The basis for such assumptions is the close friendship of designers, which in 2015 even resulted in an incredible Givenchy advertising campaign featuring Donatella Versace. In 2015, having become the advertising face of Givenchy, she made a loud statement to the press: “I think that you need to break the rules. Ricardo Tisci is incredibly talented and is also my friend. We are Family. I want to get rid of the old system, work together, support each other and make the fashion industry a truly global community."

Whether she was talking about a one-time collaboration or working for one brand is not yet clear, but if Donatella herself can afford to break the rules (Versace is a private company), then for Ricardo Tisci this was a very bold step (the house that he headed until the last moment , is part of the LVMH group).

Ricardo Tisci, Donatella Versace and Naomi Campbell

The ex-director himself claims that he is leaving the position due to the fact that his contract has come to an end.

Another reason is Tisha's long-standing dream of creating clothes of her own brand. The designer had plans to launch his collection even before the work at Givenchy, which he started in 2005. According to him, having received a job offer from a fashion house, he did not want to accept. However, financial difficulties forced the designer to accept the offer.

The Pre-fall 2017 women's and men's collections, as well as the Haute Couture collection shown in January, were the Italian fashion designer's latest creations for Givenchy. At the Paris pret-a-porter fashion week, which will take place from February 28 to March 7, the Givenchy show will still take place, but the line was created under the creative guidance of the house's in-house designers. Who will take the place of the new creative director is still unknown.

For 12 years of work, Ricardo Tisci managed to develop a corporate identity for the house, which was lost after the retirement of the founder of the brand, Hubert de Givenchy, in 1995.

At the time of Givenchy, the brand personified the elegance and aristocracy that suited the muses of the fashion designer - and. But in the mid-90s, the era of glamor began. Between Givenchy and Tichy, the brand was led by designers more suited to other fashion houses.

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In 1995, by decision of the head of LVMH, he was invited to replace Hubert de Givenchy. He immediately attracted attention with his frilly and at the same time provocative collections, demonstrated with a theatrical effect unexpected for that time. However, his talent was more suitable for the Christian Dior house, so the designer was transferred to another brand, and his place was taken. But he didn't fit the job either.

The collections created by the designer have been subjected to serious criticism more than once. Then fashion designer Julian McDonald took over the post, but he did not last too long.

Tisci, who joined Givenchy in 2005, not only brought stability to the legendary brand, but also revived it for a new generation of luxury consumers.

Now Givenchy is associated with a sexual provocation that echoes street fashion.

It was Ricardo who introduced the gothic trend in clothing, he also came up with a print with a huge star, and his T-shirts with growling Rottweilers (autumn-winter 2012 collection) became iconic.

Photo report: How Ricardo Tisci entered fashion history

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Tisci wanted his clothes to be worn by people of all ages, genders and races. One of his favorite muses is the transgender Lea T, whom Tisci made the face of the fall 2010 collection.

The designer has repeatedly created images for world stars. Concert dresses and Beyoncé, evening dresses for Madonna, and Rooney Mara, wedding dress. One of Ricardo's latest ideas was to expand Givenchy's reach as a lifestyle brand by introducing a range of clothing for babies and children.

Riccardo Tisci took Givenchy to the next level. Today the brand has 72 stores (there were seven before Tisha's arrival). In addition, the company recently took over the direct distribution of its collections in two key luxury markets: Dubai and Singapore. With the arrival of Ricardo Tisci, Givenchy's profits increased more than six-fold, according to market sources. And the number of employees of the company has tripled - from 290 in 2005 to 930 now.

Riccardo Tisci (Riccardo Tisci)- a famous designer from Italy, who holds the position of creative director of the famous Fashion House in France.

Brief biography of the designer Riccardo Tisci (Riccardo Tisci)

The future designer was born in Italy, in the town of Taranto. There were many children in his family - 8 girls and 1 boy, Ricardo. Their dad died early when the boy was only 4 years old. Ricardo's mother raised the children alone. These were difficult times for their large family, they lived very poorly, they had to eat once a whole day. Because of this, the mother was once almost deprived of parental rights. Ricardo had to wear out the clothes his sisters wore. But Elmerida - the mother of the designer - must be given credit, as she always tried to come up with some kind of entertainment for the children, compensating for the lack of money for school trips and other travels. Ricardo had the greatest wealth - the love of nine of his dearest women, who took care of him and shrouded him in attention.

But you can’t bury talent anywhere, nature endowed Ricardo with the ability to draw. In addition, the designer had a deep versatile inner world, because he grew up on fairy tales, legends and myths of his people. All this gave rise to a huge number of original and unusual images in his head.

In the 90s, Ricardo Tisci was lucky enough to win an internship at the company faro located in the town of Como. Then the designer worked in such firms as Paloma Picasso and . At the age of 17, the young man went to study in the capital of Great Britain, where he graduated from the prestigious Central Saint Martins Academy. Later, in his interviews, the designer recalled how he had to survive in London. And in general, he got into this educational institution quite by accident, having seen an advertisement in one of the free newspapers about enrolling in this college during a trip to the subway. Ricardo clung to this announcement as the last hope of realizing his old dream. The young man easily and very successfully passed the entrance exams, and was also awarded a state grant, which made it possible to complete a course of study for three years.

In 1999, designer Tishi graduated from this educational institution. Ricardo's mother was also invited to the graduation show, who left Italy for the first time and flew by plane. Since that time, my mother has been present at every show of her talented son. This performance was widely covered in the British fashion edition of Vogue for 12 pages. Each product of the collection was made by the hands of the designer, as well as his sisters and mother. I must say that this debut collection immediately had famous customers - Björk and Janet Jackson.

After showing the first collection, the designer was forced to return to Italy, where he collaborated with brands such as Ruffo Research and . While working at Ruffo Research, the designer's debut show was canceled in just a few weeks, as the company's owners announced a business reform. After such events, Ricardo left for India in search of himself, his vocation. In 2004, the young man returned to Milan, where he demonstrated his work to a well-known model Maria Carle Boscono. It was this woman who began to persuade the designer to show the collection, for this she even asked her model friends to take part in the show for free. This is how the world fashion society saw the first Riccardo Tisci collection for the Fall/Winter 2005-2006 season. A year later, the designer was offered the position of creative director at Givenchy, a well-known company, to which, of course, he agreed.

But for Ricardo, this work, the contract was not at all to improve his financial situation. He gave himself completely to her, spent a lot of time studying the archives of the Fashion House in order to develop his own unique style. His working day in the office began at 6 am, together with the cleaners, and ended well after midnight. One fine day, the owner and founder of the company found out about such a crazy rhythm Ricardo Hubert Givenchy and invited the designer to have breakfast in his mansion.

Thanks to Tisha, the Givenchy brand was again talked about, laudatory reviews from fashion critics rained down, respect and financial stability returned. Ricardo's Haute Couture collections were very popular. Madonna and the Jordanian Queen Rania became his clients. For Madonna, the designer was engaged not only in tailoring casual clothes, but also clothes for tours. And the designer completely changed the wardrobe of Queen Rania.

Since 2008, Ricardo Tisci has been creating clothes and accessories for the strong half of humanity, as well as the release of perfumes. In 2009, he decided to create an affordable clothing line called Givenchy Redux.

In 2011, in collaboration with the brand, an exclusive limited model of sneakers was released. In 2014, Ricardo signed a contract with the famous company for which he created a line of sneakers. Nike R.T.

To date, Ricardo Tisci is the title of one of the world's most famous designers. But fame, a large flow of money, success did not change his crazy craving for his favorite business. He still adores his homeland Italy, his sisters and mother. Often in his interviews, the designer calls himself a child who does not want to become an adult at all.

Video of the collaboration between the designer and Nike - an overview of the sneaker model:

Where to buy men's, women's clothing, shoes, accessories, perfumes by designer Riccardo Tisci (Riccardo Tisci), store addresses in Ukraine:

Designer's products can be purchased at Givenchy branded stores, as well as Nike. The addresses of branded stores of these companies in our country can be found on the official websites.

Designer Riccardo Tisci does not yet have an official website.

The news of the new appointment at Burberry shocked the fashion community and excited all his sympathizers. Such a move was not expected from the management of the brand. Riccardo Tisci, former creative director of Givenchy, a lover of decadent luxury, eccentric retro-futurism and dark sensuality and Burberry, a brand that is used to be associated with minimalist classics or, more recently, with democratic and relaxed athleisure. What can this "hot" Italian bring to a brand with a "cold" and "functional" British aesthetic? If you think about it, not so much. It is worth digging a little deeper, as it becomes clear: the appointment of Ricardo Tisci to this position is quite natural.

Englishman Christopher Bailey, who announced his departure from Burberry in October 2017, has been in office for 16 years. He is considered (and rightfully so!) the person who breathed new life into the brand. Under him, the revenue beat all conceivable and unthinkable forecasts, and the brand, which back in the 90s had an image of a conservative and focused mainly on middle-aged and older people, noticeably rejuvenated. First of all, thanks to the course towards digitalization - Bailey, a talented visionary, was one of the first to take it, a few years before the era of the social media craze. In particular, back in the 2000s, Bailey launched The Art Of Trench project, a site about the history of the legendary trench coat, where anyone could upload their photo in the iconic Burberry raincoat. This was in 2009 and there was a whole year before the advent of Instagram.

Among other "digital" achievements of the Briton are online broadcasts of shows, during which anyone could buy the item they liked; cooperation with Snapchat, Google and Apple Music and a serious "modernization" of branded boutiques - for example, there are now screens that display all the information about the things presented in the store.

In addition, Bailey rejuvenated Burberry advertising campaigns. In his era, millennial idols and then Generation Z began shooting for the fashion house and its beauty division: Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Cara Delevingne, Adwoa Aboah, Jude Law's daughter Iris and Pierce Brosnan's son Dylan.

Gradually, although not immediately, Burberry clothes also began to “modernize”. If, for example, in the SS2014 season, Bailey focuses on conventional femininity, graphic cut and minimalistic, though not boring, classics, then already in the SS2017 collection, a movement towards fashionable asexual androgyny is noticeable, the creative director’s craving for an asymmetric cut in the spirit of deconstructivism.

Further more. In the summer of 2017, the brand launched a collaboration with Gosha Rubchinsky, a designer whose name in the name of a brand or collection today adds a hundred points to relevance. Sportswear with the legendary Burberry plaid appeared at Rubchinsky twice - in the SS18 and FW18-19 seasons. Thus, Bailey not only once again proved his ability to “keep his nose to the wind”, but also ironically beat one of the stereotypes associated with Burberry: in his native Britain, things from this brand are often associated with the style of “chavs”, rude guys from the outskirts, the nearest relatives of our "gopniks". Around the 80s, these "brave" guys were actively wearing baseball caps and t-shirts in the same check - often fake, but who cares? By allowing Gaucher, the gop style's main apologist, to combine these things with his aesthetic, Bailey returned them to fashionable "legitimacy".

The designer himself, around the same time, also began to gravitate toward the trendy athleisure style. No more tight skirts and "office" knitted dresses. Their place was taken by windbreakers, wide sports trousers, oversized coats (but, of course, plaid!) and stretched, “aged” cardigans.

Bailey dedicated his latest collection for Burberry (SS18) to LGBT youth and his own youth, which fell on the 80s and 90s - decades that, by no coincidence, modern designers are quoting more and more often. Models walked the runway in puffy vests, long sleeves and rainbow-print ponchos. In addition, the collection contains things in acid shades, as if painted with graffiti, and “wild” looks, made up, for example, of oversized sweaters and tiered long skirts.

In a word, Bailey managed to make the brand entrusted to him in a good way crazy, reckless and, as a result, really fashionable, and not just by the fact of belonging to the fashion industry. The appointment of Ricardo Tisci in light of this is a quite reasonable step, perfectly fitting into the strategy to rejuvenate yesterday's “brand for respectable pensioners”.

Italian Tishi has been in the fashion industry for almost 30 years. In the 90s and the first half of the 2000s, he collaborated with Missoni, Antonio Berardi, Puma, and also worked on his own brand of the same name. But only after coming to the post of creative director of Givenchy in 2005, the young designer became truly famous. According to rumors (which are most likely true) at an interview with the bosses of the fashion house, he was the only candidate who did not mention the name of Audrey Hepburn, with whom, first of all, the style of classic Givenchy is associated. And that is why the leadership opted for a candidate unknown to anyone in those years. The Parisian fashion house was in desperate need of a man who could make his clothes desirable for the younger generation - just like the old British brand Burberry needed in 2001.

Quiet lived up to expectations. He, like Bailey, managed to completely modernize the brand under his control. Some even think it's too much. So, Hubert de Givenchy himself said in an interview with the online publication Women's Wear Daily that Ricardo's works for Givenchy "do not feel the spirit of the house." The Italian retorted, answering that he, like the legendary founder, has “his own Audreys” - model Mariacarla Boscono, artist and performanceist Marina Abramovic, transgender model Lea T. and rock diva Courtney Love. This is not the whole list of Tisha's muses. Ciara, Rihanna, Beyoncé and Kim Kardashian became Givenchy's friends during his time at the helm. The latter even married Kanye West (another great friend of the brand) in a Givenchy dress by Ricardo Tisci.

“Kim for me is the epitome of a modern woman,” says the designer. She is the epitome of today's society. If someone doesn't like it, that's their problem."

But, of course, it's not just about the ability to gather a pool of "your" people around you. Givenchy clothes also became different with the advent of Tisha. For 12 years of work in the fashion house, he managed to establish himself as a lover of solemn, but not gloomy "Gothic", baroque redundant finishes, black color and architectural cut.

The Italian loves experiments bordering on outrageous. He released masked and pierced models on the catwalk, created fantastic avant-garde headdresses and costumes that looked like Martian attire.

It is unlikely that the modest Audrey would have dared to try on any of this, but the new generation of fashionistas undoubtedly liked this aesthetic. The brand's revenue increased exponentially, and the FW15 collection was almost completely sold out in the first few days after the start of sales. The brand was also loved by top stars like Madonna and Julia Roberts. In 2012, Tisci canceled couture shows, saying they were out of date and inappropriate, and that he prefers to show haute couture on the stars who wear them on the red carpet. True, in 2016 the couture line resumed: Tisci combined the show with the men's show and released a lookbook. And then he invited industry professionals and clients to the atelier so that they could see with their own eyes how made-to-measure outfits are created.

Sensitive, emotional Tisci called the inner circle of employees, models and friends of the house nothing more than a family - and this was completely sincere and serious. The family also became new faces that he discovered, and celebrities for whom he sewed dresses and stage costumes. Even couture shows were quickly abandoned by the designer in favor of more intimate presentations where he interacted with clients: "I dress the ones I like," he told The New York Times. Tisci has always loved "women of color" - long before brands begin to fall for insufficient racial diversity at shows, he released young Joan Smalls (whose relatives he even went to Puerto Rico to meet) and Lakshmi Menon, and in 2010 was the first designer to invite a Brazilian transgender model, Leia T, to star in a campaign. For all her popularity, Tisci always carried the idea of ​​unconventional beauty, his heroine was never someone who could be called, for example, “pretty”. He released models on the catwalk with faces covered with rhinestones or black patterns, or even plates imitating mustaches and beards. Among the faces of the brand were the singers Beyoncé and Erika Badu, and among the most unexpected heroines of the campaigns - Julia Roberts and Donatella Versace, a close friend of the designer and, according to rumors, his next employer.Tisci's approach to women's dress is unique: while the amount of decorativeness and intricate cuts can be pushed to the limit, his outfits are always surprisingly solid and flattering to the female figure (surprisingly, almost any) - many critics suggest that such coverage originates from the designer's nepotism and from the fact that he grew up surrounded by nine women of different ages. This talent, the mastery of styling, lush romance, famous friends (who are friends, of course, with Tisci, and not with Givenchy and will follow him further) and the fact that he is, after all, an Italian - all this today looks just like ready gift set for Versace. Moreover - let's make a bold assumption - it is likely that Donatella herself is already very, very tired.

It is interesting that when Tisci was offered to manage the men's collection as well (this was in 2008, and for several years before that, the Givenchy men's collection had been assembled by the existing team), Ricardo hesitated. At the same time, he quickly became one of the most influential men's designers. He managed not only to rethink the elegance of suits (which began to regularly hit the red carpet along with dresses), but also to make convincing luxury streetwear: sweatshirts with prints, bright graphic sweaters, T-shirts, sneakers - the designer himself prefers street style in life, and, perhaps, , which is why his works are so organic. As a result, on the male field, he managed to create an aesthetic no less striking than on the female one - and attract a separate army of fans, from the famous (with a spread from Jared Leto to Jay Z and Kanye) to teenagers who saved up for printed slip-ons or for the NikeLab x collaboration. Riccardo Tisci.