The philosophy of luxury Pierre Balmain. Pierre Cardin: Legend of Haute Couture Pierre Cardin Collections

He dressed the first beauties of the planet and the most popular performers. It is hard to even imagine how famous personalities he dressed. They fell in love with him, worshiped him. But there were only a few women who left the brightest mark on his soul. He is still proud of his acquaintance and friendship with them.

Jeanne Moreau: true love

They loved each other and treasured their relationship. The great couturier still regrets that they saved their feelings and relationships. Jeanne Moreau was constantly busy filming, and he is very passionate about his work and endless fashion shows and shows. He wanted children, but she was never able to give him the joy of fatherhood. The parting was bitter for both, but devoid of mutual claims and scandals. Pierre Cardin, with a touch of nostalgia, recalls those happy four years that they spent together, and admits that he loved no one as much as Jeanne.

Jacqueline Kennedy: good friendship

They met at a difficult time for Jacqueline, when the first misunderstandings and quarrels in her marriage to John F. Kennedy were just beginning. She seemed withdrawn, uncommunicative and very reserved in the manifestation of feelings. But their second meeting dispelled this impression. In the good periods of her life, Jacqueline was cheerful and very pleasant to talk to. Their conversations could last for hours, they talked about fashion and cinema, about the intricacies of French cuisine and about France in general. Over time, the wife of the American president became one of the master's favorite clients. But never once did she allow herself to accept as a gift any outfit offered by the couturier, she always paid according to her order. Only a bouquet of flowers could please her.

Their communication never concerned her relationship with her husband, but Pierre, of course, noticed how hard she was going through the death of her husband. He supported her as much as he could, but gradually the friendship faded away. Men endlessly fell in love with her, showing her countless signs of attention. She chose Aristotle Onassis as her husband, after which the communication between Jacqueline and Pierre ceased altogether. But he always remembers their friendship with touching warmth.

Pierre Cardin and Raisa Gorbachev met many years before her husband became president of the Soviet Union. But the meeting was very short, and the trendsetter was sure that the woman did not even remember him. But after a few years, she expressed a desire to communicate with the couturier, and he was persistently hinted at refusing to refuse this meeting. However, the inquisitive and inquisitive Pierre Cardin could not deny himself the pleasure of talking with the first lady of the Union.

She diligently followed her reputation, in public she was very restrained, and in private conversations she gave the impression of an open, sociable, interesting person and interlocutor. They were friends until the death of Raisa Maksimovna.

Marlene Dietrich: expressive star

The relationship between the couturier and the actress was very difficult. He invited her to his theater "Espace Cardin", and already in the negotiations, the star managed to bring the fashion designer to a boiling point. She was capricious, demanded absolutely unthinkable conditions and the highest fees for each appearance on the stage. When he was ready to abandon his idea, she still signed the contract. As it turned out, they were just flowers. During the preparation of concerts, Marlene threw tantrums and scandalized, finding fault with everything that fell into her field of vision. She was arrogant with Cardin and did not notice any armfuls of flowers with which he filled her up after the concert, nor those countless signs of attention that he showed her. However, she did not notice him either, treating the couturier as an empty place.

She exhausted Carden so much that after the end of the contract, he did not even want to hear about her, letters of thanks and commercial offers from Dietrich were instantly sent to the wastebasket. There were also all her photographs that Pierre found. As time passed, he was ready to resume business communication, but found out about the serious illness of the actress.

Maya Plisetskaya: a real diva

He fell in love with her talent immediately after he saw her on stage at Carmen. He was surprised and delighted by the passion with which the ballerina played, those feelings that she could express without words, with the movement of her body. After the Minister of Culture Ekaterina Furtseva introduced the fashion designer and the ballerina to each other, an amazing friendship began between the two great people. He gladly dressed her for social events and sewed costumes for her heroines on stage.

Pierre Cardin still does not understand how such a strong friendship arose between them, but admits that he still misses Maya. Pierre Cardin considered Maya Plisetskaya a true symbol of Russian culture, the greatest actress of her 20th century.

Pierre Cardin collaborated and collaborates with many famous fashion models, and the famous fashion designer of the 19th century chose to make the first fashion model out of his wife Marie.

The name of the great fashion designer Pierre Cardin is known to anyone who was at least a little interested in fashion or opened a glossy magazine. The man who turned the fashion world upside down, proving that the concept of "high fashion" is quite applicable to everyday clothes, and that you can be fashionable every day. Many of his actions caused universal condemnation at one time, but it was time that put everything in its place.

Biography of Pierre Cardin

The master was born in Italy on July 2, 1922, but lived in this country for quite a bit. When it became clear what kind of policy the whole family was leading, together with little Pierre, she left Italy and moved to France. The future fashion designer was a rather late child. When he was born, his father was already 60, and his mother was 42 years old. For a long time, winemaking was considered a family business, but already matured Pierre did not want to follow in the footsteps of his parents and became seriously interested in theater.

Subsequently, Monsieur Cardin will remember his life in the family not too warmly. Already at 18 he will leave his home, and at 25 he will become an orphan. It was necessary to earn money somehow, and for some time he worked as an apprentice in a sewing studio, where he learned many tricks of the future profession.

Theater and Pierre Cardin

Interest in the theater resulted in the first noticeable stage in his creative biography - he worked as a production designer in the film Beauty and the Beast. Then the future couturier goes to work at that time the already famous fashion house of Christian Dior. In an interview, Cardin will speak of Dior as his complete opposite. Unlike Christian, who had his patrons and financiers, Pierre Cardin achieved everything with his own work and subsequently began to finance many projects himself.

When Cardin's own Fashion House finally opened, he immediately began to attract attention, introducing something new, experimental into fashion trends. It is with the collections of Pierre Cardin that the emergence of the avant-garde style is associated. At that time he was a real inventor, constantly trying new forms, playing with colors.

A real sensation was made by an open show, which Monsieur Cardin held not in the Haute Couture House, as was then customary, but right in the ready-made clothing store. It was then that the representatives of the profession took up arms against him, and it was then that he was expelled from the High Fashion Syndicate. But it was a real revolution in the history of the industry.

Since then, fashionable dresses and stylish suits from well-known fashion designers have begun to appear in department stores and other stores, and ready-to-wear clothing has become more affordable.

Inspiration

At one time, the muses of the great fashion designer were many famous women. You can remember both (for some time he was her costume designer) and the ballerina Maya Plisetskaya. The real love of Pierre Cardin was a popular actress. They lived together with her for about four years, but they carried warm feelings through their whole lives and even now remain very close friends.

The name of Monsieur Cardin is now more than the name of a great couturier. The master did not limit himself to the development of fashionable clothes. He created furniture, was engaged in interior design and perfumery, collaborated with automobile companies. He bought a theater and has a chain of restaurants at his disposal. Moreover, he is the owner of an entire village in which built several hotels, shops, cafes. And now, when he has free time, he visits this favorite place with pleasure.

“I have always been an ambitious person,” says Pierre Cardin in his interviews. - "but over the years you realize that real happiness is when you go towards your goal."

Pierre Cardin is one of the most famous personalities in the history of high fashion. He is famous for his passion for abstract design. It is with the light hand of this couturier that a fresh stream of air - the avant-garde - is rapidly bursting into the world of fashion.

Childhood of Pierre Cardin

The famous couturier was born and raised in a poor French family. He was the sixth child. Cardin's father served as a mercenary soldier, then worked as a winemaker. Pierre could follow in his footsteps, but from childhood he dreamed of creating his own empire of beautiful clothes. Already at an early age, he began to be attracted to the theater (because of the wide variety of costumes) and dolls (which can be sewn into all sorts of outfits).

In 1926, the parents of the future fashion designer moved to their homeland, to France. At the age of 14, Cardin got a job as a tailor's assistant.

Youth of Pierre Cardin

At the age of 17, Pierre went to Vichy, where he worked as a tailor in a men's clothing store. Having received certain skills, the assertive 23-year-old young man goes to conquer Paris. Pierre does not change his dream and continues to study architecture, design and sewing. He worked in various fashion ateliers in Paris: Madame Paquini Elsa Schiaparelli.

At the same time, Pierre met Jean Cocteau and Christian Berard. It is they who are the patronage of the young couturier and Cardin receives the first big order - to make costumes and masks for the film "Beauty and the Beast".

The beginning of the career of fashion designer Pierre Cardin

After about two years, having gained experience, the young man becomes the leading fashion designer in the studio of Christian Dior, for whom he worked for about three years.

Pierre Cardin is fond of clear geometric lines, ignoring female forms, designs the famous "bubble dresses" and presents them in his collections. Developing the traditions of the legendary Coco Chanel, Cardin experiments a lot and offers unisex clothes to her clients. We can say that in almost all of his endeavors, the fashion designer adheres to the avant-garde style.

In 1957, Cardin created the first collection of women's clothing, which was a huge success. He proved to be a specialist in bias cuts, semi-fitted lines and bright colors. Thanks to him, short tunics appear, glasses, helmets and unusual shapes that evoke cosmic fantasies become fashionable.

In the mid-fifties, the fashion designer opened his first boutique called "Eve". And three years later, he decides to take a bold step and takes on men's clothing and opens a store called "Adam".

Pierre Cardin received an order from Vladimir Putin

Cardin was one of the first to offer clothes for men in all the colors of the rainbow. Now, this is something taken for granted, but at that time it seemed an extremely bold decision.

One of the successes of this wonderful stylist was that he was the first to stage a show right in the store, and not on the prestigious catwalk. This caused a public scandal. The future celebrity was expelled from the trade union for trying to dishonor the couturier profession.

A little later, the fashion designer decides to create a collection of children's clothing. Pierre Cardin children's clothing store opens in Paris. And after some time, such stores have already appeared around the world.

Recognition and fame of a fashion designer

In 1957 Cardin made his first trip to Japan. Here he was awarded the title of honorary professor of the Japanese College of Design. Cardin was the first international fashion designer to turn to Japan as a fertile high fashion market.

Throughout the sixties, the fashion designer continued to work on creating bizarre shapes and bright colors in clothes. Realizing that the avant-garde style of clothing is not always acceptable to the general population, the couturier is gradually moving towards a more traditional style. In 1961, a classic-style clothing store opens in Paris.

Pierre Cardin: to Russia with love

Having completely and unconditionally conquered Europe, the couturier went to New York in 1966. The success of his collections exceeded all expectations and Cardin's store was opened in this city. In the same year, Pierre Cardin was awarded the international award "Golden Spinning Wheel" in the city of Krefeld (Germany).

A wide range of interests, hobbies of Pierre Cardin

Fashion is not the only thing Cardin is interested in. He made his mark in perfumery, in the design of the Toyota Rav 4, produces champagne and children's toys, opened a hotel in California.

In 1981, the famous couturier acquired the Maxim restaurant chain. Soon branches of the restaurant opened in London, Beijing and New York.

In 2006, Pierre Cardin opened a museum in Saint-Ouen, where he collected all his creations.

Couturiers have even been accused of wanting to put their name on everything from cars to food.

Personal life of Pierre Cardin

Pierre Cardin dedicated his entire life to work. But the fashion designer was not only limited to work. The main love of the life of the “silk king” was the famous actress Jeanne Moreau.

They were introduced by Coco Chanel. Sympathy for each other soon developed into a deep feeling. All four years of their life together they dreamed of children. But, unfortunately, Moreau could not have them. After parting, Moreau and Pierre remained friends.

The only thing Cardin regrets is that he has no heirs. One of the main contenders for the inheritance, which, according to Cardin, is 71 billion, is his nephew, Rodrigo, better known as a pianist.

Pierre Cardin today

Today, Pierre Cardin is not only a well-known trendsetter. He is the owner of restaurants, the Espace Cardin theater, the author of books, the creator of furniture and interior items. Winner of 24 prestigious international awards, Commander of the Order of the Legion of Honor and the Order of Merit, Commander of the Order of Arts and Letters Now the House of Cardin produces up to 20 thousand models of clothing and accessories a year. More than 200 thousand people work at its factories around the world.

Pierre Cardin patented 800 different products, his business includes two theatres, restaurants, 8 thousand boutiques of perfumes, watches, magazines, furniture, cigarettes and much more. The company's annual turnover is approximately 12 billion dollars.

International trendsetter Pierre Cardin, despite his age, is full of creative plans and ideas. Inexhaustible energy, good health allows us to hope that many of his ideas will come true.

On October 24, 2013, the legendary French fashion designer Pierre Cardin, the owner of an already countless number of awards and titles, was awarded the title “Chevalier of the Order of Friendship” by decree of the President of Russia “For his great contribution to strengthening friendship and cooperation with Russia, the development of cultural ties”. And these are not empty words, because all the work of Pierre Cardin, all his biography from time immemorial are closely connected with our country.

Pierre Cardin famous fashion designer

This Frenchman was born on July 22, 1922 in Italy, in a place near Venice. Soon his family moved to a provincial French town. Little Pierre was not friends with boys of the same age, he liked girls more, and especially their dolls, which he loved to dress up. At the age of fourteen, Pierre takes a job as an apprentice to a local tailor. The young Cardin moved to Paris only at the very end of World War II. There, at the age of nineteen, he began his career with legendary women: Jeanne Paquin, and after Elsa Schiaparelli. Of course, it was a great school for a gifted designer! Then he met a prominent representative of the Parisian intellectual elite - the playwright Jean Cocteau, as a result of which the young man created costumes for his film "La Belle et la Bete" ("Beauty and the Beast"). And soon there was a turning point in his life: Cardin was admitted to the House of Christian Dior himself, where he soon became the leading designer.

dress by Pierre Cardin

After leaving the famous House, “little Pierre” (as Dior called him) began to create costumes and masks for the theater. Since then, he will repeatedly return to the theater throughout his life, but I will talk about this a little later. In 1953 (according to some other sources - in 1951) Cardin sold his first collection, which was not numerous in composition - women's, haute couture. By inertia, he still followed the then-current feminine style of the new look (new look), but he also managed to avoid direct borrowing from the masters of high fashion - Dior and Balenciaga. Whatever it was, but this debut did not go unnoticed and brought fame and money to the young talent. A year later Cardin's name became known all over the world, and his first boutique "Eve" was opened in Paris. In subsequent years, the couturier came up with ball-shaped skirts, blouses of an unusual cut and coats that were amazing for that time. By the way, the designer found his own style pretty soon: a straight and narrow silhouette with very clear contours. Cardin is also characterized by applications in the form of rhombuses or circles, creating the illusion of three-dimensionality. He managed to combine geometric shapes into organic forms. This style has only been honed over time, and although it may seem reserved and even cold, it is impossible to surpass it. No wonder the fashion designer likes to say so: "To become a couturier, they must be born."

Meanwhile, Cardin worked tirelessly for nineteen hours a day. In 1957, having decided to destroy the then customary opinion about fashion as the prerogative of exclusively women, Pierre created a men's collection and as a result opened his second Adam boutique. He was the first to introduce colorful ties and printed shirts into men's fashion. In the fifties, the image of a successful employee, a representative of the middle class, still reigned: a gray three-piece suit and a white shirt. But already in the next decade there were changes in the conservative men's fashion. And here Cardin proved to be an innovator, offering a replacement for the “classics”: he modernized the costumes in the so-called neo-Edwardian style, replacing them with collarless jackets (remember the stage image of the Beatles in the early 60s!).

In 1958, the fashion designer created a unisex collection. Some now consider Cardin almost the founder of this style, but now he denies this, stating that he does not like the commonality in men's and women's clothing.

In 1959, Cardin pioneered ready-to-wear with a ready-to-wear women's collection at the iconic Paris department store Printemps. The trade union chamber of French couturiers was outraged by the designer's flirtation with the street, and he was expelled from the ranks of the Haute Couture Syndicate. But having soberly judged, the Syndicate nevertheless came to the conclusion that if such collections were abandoned, then American competitors would quickly conquer the empty niche of ready-made dresses in France. Therefore, the status of couturier Cardin was soon returned.

The famous bubble dress by Pierre Cardin

Sixties. The first successes of mankind in astronautics. Everyone seemed to be literally obsessed with space! Cardin did not stand aside either: his Space Age collection was a resounding success. On the podium are girls and boys in leather suits of astronauts of the future and headdresses resembling helmets. Subsequently, the designer will say: “The clothes I make are the clothes of the future.” In those years, the name of Cardin sounded everywhere, his influence on culture was enormous! For example, the heroine of the popular English TV series “The Avengers” Emma Peel (the role of Diana Rigg) shone on the TV screen in the outfits of famous fashion designers at that time, including Carden’s. In general, while still working at the House of Dior, he already dressed many famous beauties: princesses, wives of presidents, movie stars, but his favorite client was always Charlotte Rampling.

Then, in the 60s, the fashion designer came up with bell skirts, space suits, coats flared right from the collar, dresses with slits and fancy headdresses. He enthusiastically accepted the fashion for mini-skirts, becoming since then one of the promoters of the mini. It was he who created the black women's stockings and high boots appropriate to this image. At the same time, he also began to make children's clothing, and also opened several more of his stores. He successfully built his business on the manufacture of sewing patterns, allowing garment factories to produce his ready-to-wear collections under licenses. Cardin became a kind of champion in the number of licenses he owned in various countries of the world, but in 1968 he first gave the right to use his name outside the fashion industry: one of the large firms producing porcelain tableware bothered to do so. In subsequent years, Cardin increasingly engaged in activities far from fashion, in particular, he developed the design of furniture, bathtubs, as well as seats for Renault cars, opened restaurants and hotels. As a result, he was accused of wanting to “perpetuate” his name on everything that is possible.

models of the House of Pierre Cardin

Since the seventies, Cardin has constantly received various awards in many countries of the world. With your permission, I will not list them here, because this list is very impressive. I will not cite here the astronomical amounts of his income, which are so fond of savoring various media (web resources, too) - there is a lot of this information. Let me just say that already in 1991 Cardin was elected an honorary ambassador of UNESCO. In the eighties, the famous couturier finally “conquered” the whole world and, traveling to different countries, opened his boutiques everywhere. Once he even said: "I created an empire, at the head of which is my cosmic loneliness."

Pierre Cardin logo

Pierre Cardin and his theater

Once upon a time, young Cardin dreamed of becoming a theater or ballet actor, but fate turned out differently. However, in 1970 he bought a theater in Paris, calling it "Espace Pierre Cardin" ("Cosmos of Pierre Cardin"). Over time, it became a whole complex, which, in addition to the theater, also included a hotel, a restaurant and an exhibition hall. At first, the famous couturier invited various actors with their own productions, but gradually he gathered his own troupe, which then grew into a professional theater. As its owner, Cardin immediately became a member of the artistic council. Since then, many celebrities have played on the Espace Pierre Cardin stage, such as Gerard Depardieu and Marina Vlady. By the way, one of the performances, "The Madness of Salvador Dali" is dedicated to a man with whom Cardin was friends for many years.

Pierre Cardin "red" couturier

In the USSR, Cardin was deservedly nicknamed the “red couturier”. For the first time, the fashion designer visited the Soviet Union in 1963 (by the way, the official website of the designer says: “1983, March. First trip to Moscow”. A mistake of as much as 20 years! It is possible that the maestro himself simply does not know about this typo). He has always maintained that Russia has huge potential for the fashion market. However, only in April 1986 he managed to sign a contract for the release of his clothes in the Union. Perhaps the apogee of Cardin's activities in the USSR was an unforgettable show on Moscow's Red Square. This event happened in June 1991 and was timed to coincide with the fortieth anniversary of the creative activity of the legendary fashion designer. Cardin himself later admitted that this was the most memorable and significant day in his life: two hundred thousand spectators attended the show, and instead of the usual tanks, charming young fashion models paraded around the square. "It was great!" exclaimed the couturier.

In 1965, Cardin met with, which then grew into long-term friendships. They are united not only by their profession, but also by the fact that both in their youth dreamed of becoming actors. It will be worth mentioning that Cardin collaborated a lot with famous Soviet theaters. In his costumes, actors took to the stage - participants in the performances "The Seagull", "Spring Waters", "Anna Karenina" and others. And in 1998, inspired by the heroines of A.P. Chekhov, Cardin created a collection dedicated to the centenary of the Moscow Art Theater. The fashion designer also worked with ballet dancers, and the famous Maya Plisetskaya became his Muse.

Once Cardin saw on the Moscow stage "Juno and Avos" - a musical on the verses of Andrei Voznesensky. The famous couturier was fascinated by this performance and in 1983 showed it on the stage of his theater, and then for a good ten years he presented this production to the whole world, paying from his own pocket for all the relocations of Soviet actors. Since then, he became very friendly with Voznesensky and with artists, in particular with Nikolai Karachentsov.

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(French Pierre Cardin; born July 2, 1922, San Andrea da Barbara, Italy)- French .

Biography

Born July 2, 1922 in Italy, in the city of San Andrea da Barbara. He received his architectural education in Saint-Etienne in France.

During World War II he served in the Red Cross.

Creation and development of Pierre Cardin

Pierre Cardin has shown extraordinary entrepreneurial skills throughout his career. In this regard, he became not only one of the richest designers, but also a person whose name has become a household name. Cardin is a global phenomenon. It was he who became the first designer who began to develop the markets of Japan, China, Russia and Romania, naming hundreds of things after himself, from ties and alarm clocks to underwear and pans.

Pierre Cardin was the first designer to understand the true business opportunities in the fashion world. In 1959, he starts producing prêt-a-porter items. With this act, he shocked the Chambre Syndicale, the main controlling body of haute couture in Paris. His actions were seen, firstly, as an attempt to make high-end designer clothes more accessible, and, secondly, to open eyes to the real state of affairs in the fashion business. All this led to the exclusion of Cardin from the ranks of the Chambre Syndicale.

Pierre Cardin has always been interested in quality tailoring and production. Excellent quality is still his trademark to this day. Clothing from Cardin is minimalistic, exquisitely tailored, has whimsical shapes and is complemented by a variety of. The main emphasis is on wool and knitwear. Starting with a balloon dress, continuing with shirt dresses and ending with a series of dresses, Pierre Cardin, as it were, ambiguously highlights the most remarkable body shapes.

Technological progress, the achievements of science and technology were expressed in his Space Age collection in 1964. He introduced white knitted stockings, tabards worn over leggings, and "tube" dresses. Cardin's interest in artificial fibers was evident. In 1968 he created his own Cardine fabric. Its main components were ultra-strong fibers interspersed with various geometric patterns.

The asexual projects of Pierre Cardin for women are very curious. In them, with the help of various cones, outlines, cutouts and moldings, an emphasis was placed on the female breast. Likewise, his asexual minis accentuated his legs. The perforation experimentation that Pierre Cardin had been passionate about in the 1960s was replaced in the 1970s by the use of lighter materials such as jersey, sunray techniques and pleated pleats. Spirals come to the fore, displacing geometric patterns. Exciting layered and printed chiffon evening gowns are becoming popular.

Pierre Cardin was the first designer to challenge London's Savile Row in the postwar years. Collarless jackets, which are fastened with all buttons, are becoming incredibly popular. The Beatles wore something similar. A lot of people are starting to wear such jackets with turtlenecks, which looks very fresh and stylish. Cardin removes collars and leaves pockets, thereby departing from traditional trends. All this is done with the aim of creating a new masculine style. Since then, the men's suit, which has always been traditional, has become part of the world of high fashion.

Perhaps in recent years, Cardin's influence as a fashion designer has declined somewhat. The designer believes that ingenuity and talent are often underestimated. In a speech to students at an American college in Atlanta in July 1996, he said:

“I can design everything from chairs to chocolate, but fashion is still my first love. You can do something classic, something beautiful, but it's only good taste. True talent must be accompanied by elements of shock; 30 years ago I made black stockings and everyone thought they were ugly. But now these stockings have become classic.

By the end of 2000, Pierre Cardin began to look for a buyer for his empire. He turned down offers from the French giant, as well as from, wanting to find someone he could trust without limit, who would not only keep the integrity of but also take care of his many employees.