Eternal Card Game Budget Decks: Time. Eternal: a great guide to decks and cards Deck building principles

The minimum number of cards in one deck is 75, and the maximum is 150 game cards plus power cards. There can be as many runes and other power cards that provide the necessary power points for the draw as you like, but the minimum value must be one third of the total number of cards. This ratio - 25 power cards to 75 in the deck - is enough for a fairly "grassroots" deck, that is, with an emphasis on inexpensive creatures and spells. In decks with an abundance of expensive cards, where it is important to gain a lot of power points as quickly as possible, the number of runes can be half, but such "decks" are more suitable for experienced players.

Start with the strongest cards

At the end of the campaign (and I strongly recommend doing this before going into PvP), you should already have an understanding of what “colors”, that is, world forces, you want to play. Do not experiment too much: one deck should contain no more than two types, in extreme cases - three. In addition, the game allows you to get hold of a couple of boosters for completing tasks, from which a couple of strong cards can fall out, around which you can build a deck.

The maximum number of copies of one card in a deck is four. But this does not mean that you should have four of each creature, spell or item. Most major cards are indeed best to have in abundance, but many require only one or two copies.

Use "filters" for efficient card selection

When you get to the screen for creating a new deck, do not rush - there are many different functions that are not striking. Even if you have already decided on your favorite world power, you should not leaf through the entire collection manually, this can only be useful as part of getting to know it. To quickly create the optimal deck and for a more convenient search for the necessary cards, use the "Additional Options" button: it is located to the right of the icons with rune types.

There you can filter your cards by the following parameters:

• by cost: 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6+;
• by quality: Common (gray marker), Uncommon (green marker), Rare (blue marker), Promo cards (purple marker) and Legendary (gold marker);
• Campaign: Empty Throne, Bounty Hunt, Omens of Ancient;
• by type: Power (runes and other power cards), Creatures, Items (weapons, relics and other artifacts) and Spells;
• by belonging to the forces: five basic, "multi-force" and neutral.

You can also switch between the cards that you already have in your collection and all the rest, to understand what potential a particular deck has. By the way, in this display mode, you can even add cards that are missing to decks - you will get a kind of draft decks for the future.

Keep a close eye on deck stats

In addition to the "filters", there is another handy tool that will help you keep track of its balance already in the process of creating a deck - a statistical screen. You can get to it by the button located in the upper right corner under the "New Deck" button: it still displays the number of cards by value in the form of seven columns in real time.

It clearly shows how many cards of what type you have already collected, how the percentage is distributed according to their belonging to the world forces, as well as a complete list of cards indicating their number, sorted by cost from the cheapest to the most expensive (power cards that have no cost, stand at the end).

In this mode, by the way, it is quite possible to complete the deck, having a visual idea of ​​which cards are missing and which are too many. To add the same card to the deck, just click on the number indicating the amount, and to remove the extra one, click on the entire name.

Make sure that there are no expensive cards in the majority, otherwise it will be extremely tight in the early stages of the match. Try to distribute the cards evenly by cost so that you can build the game as flexible as possible. Of course, you won’t get a completely flat schedule, but this task is rarely set: aggressive decks will have more low-cost cards to increase variability in the early stages of the battle, but in the middle deck, the majority is usually given to cards costing 3-5 strength, since there is the greatest concentration according to the utility-value principle.

Try to match the number of spells and items with the number of units, otherwise you risk being left with an empty table. Creatures are the backbone of any CCG, and items without someone to apply them to are just useless. Spells can also help to defeat the enemy only if there is combat strength, otherwise they will only allow you to fight back for the time being.

Save the set of power cards for last

Once you've built the bulk of your deck of creatures, items, and spells, it's time to add the necessary power cards. Yes, it is better to do this at the end, when it is clear what the required amount will be discussed.

Power cards are automatically added to created decks by default. To disable this feature and take full control of the process yourself, go to Settings->Gameplay and put the first checkmark there (“Manual deck setup”).

In the game, at the opening hand, you can get one card of power, but if you choose to re-deal, you will get at least two, which is quite enough for aggressive decks, but extremely few for balanced and “late” decks. I advise you to make sure that there are at least 25 power cards in your deck (with a standard size of 75 cards). If the deck is "two-color", there should be 8-10 of each type, plus "two-color" and other power cards that are especially relevant in this case.

In case you don’t want to rely on luck alone, especially for the same dual decks, a neutral card is important Search for strength, which for the cost of one power point will allow you to draw a rune of your choice straight from the deck.

Apart from Seeking strength there are units and spells that let you draw a rune from the deck when you cast them. For example, there are spells Help, which have the ability to give you a certain rune from the deck and perform a certain action in addition to this.

There are also among the cards of power monuments, Thrones and Standards. Monuments give an empty rune and some effect, while the rest are useful only with "two-color" decks, as they give two runes at once. True, these runes may turn out to be "empty", that is, they will not add strength to you if certain conditions are not met.

Maybe there is something ready?

If you're still afraid to experiment with building your own deck, below are a few simple decks that will make you more or less confident.

Let's start with five basic decks that correspond to the five world forces:

• Flame Deck- Emphasis on quick damage, both from spells and from weapons. Many powerful creatures, creatures with dash, suppression and additional damage. Almost all creatures have more attack than health.
• Time Deck- desert-oriental aesthetics. Calculation for control, manipulation with runes, mutual reinforcement and "hunting". With creatures, the story is reversed: almost all have less damage than hit points.
• Order Deck- a deck consisting of knights and their fighting friends. A significant amount of flying creatures and items that give flight, as well as imb armor.
• Element Deck- air and snow-water creatures, some fly and beat, while others freeze, shackle and turn into a frog.
• Shadow Deck- horns, vampires and other tricksters, unexpected spells, black magic, manipulation with the abyss.

When you decide to diversify these basic options, keep in mind that this lesson costs a special currency - Animatrix, and the ratio of the exchange rate for creation / dispersion is worse than in the exchangers in the 90s: ordinary cards cost 50 Animatrix, and give only 1; uncommon ones cost 100 and give 10; rare ones cost 800, give 200; promo cards cost 600, give 100; legendary cost 3200, give 800. There are also animated versions of the cards: they are much rarer and cost accordingly. In general, earning cards in battles and getting them from boosters is much more profitable than disenchanting them. And from those cards that we come across in the base decks, it is, of course, impossible to collect something incredible, otherwise the whole point of the game and pumping your skill would be lost.

So, here are some examples of inexpensive decks that you can build after a few weeks of playing. To quickly find the cards you need in the collection, just start typing their name in the search bar. Feel free to make your own changes to them: the main thing is to have the main cards on which the meta decks are built.

We continue to consider budget mono-decks in Eternal Card Game, and in this material a variant of the time deck will be presented. Playing with only this color is quite difficult: the deck is not designed for a quick fight, it has many vulnerable points, and the price tag will be higher than that of the fiery one, since many units are missing from the base Sands of Time deck. However, the potential of the assembly is huge, especially if the opponent gapes and allows you to gain strength. The deck relies on two features of the yellow faction: the “cheapening” of the cost of cards and the emphasis on large ground creatures.

The strategy is to use creature combo skills Sauropod Wrangler and Ageless Mentor: Strong creatures will cost less, and damage and defense will increase. In the same connection goes Dawnwalker, which is returned to the battlefield from the discard pile when you play a creature with five or more attacks. Otherwise, everything is simple: strive to gain strength as quickly as possible and lay out units.

spells

There are no spell cards in the deck, but there are relics Infinite Hourglass and Xenan Obelisk, which are "put on" on the player's avatar. The first gives all allied units Endurance, allowing them to be ready every turn. The second gives +1/+1 to all creatures on the battlefield and +2/+2 if the strength is greater than eight. At the same time, bonuses from several Xenan Obelisk summed up. Remember that the relic is immune to damage, but can be removed by various cards with text like Kill enemy attachment (removes effects imposed by the enemy, disarms or destroys the relic).

creatures

Initiate of the Sands: 1/1 unit that gives +1 to strength (but not influence!). This is usually where the game starts. The card allows you to very quickly gain the strength needed to lay out your large creatures. Talir's Favored: 0/2, puts a time card into hand. Temple Scribe: 1/1, you draw another card and gain one hit point. Sand Warrio r: 3/3 unit that costs nothing but requires three influence. Sauropod Wrangler: 2/2, your units with five or more attacks cost one less strength. Effective while this card is on the battlefield, so try not to attack or block with it unless absolutely necessary. Ageless Mentor: 2/3, all units in your hand (!) that cost four or more get +2/+2. Effective when you play this card, so don't rush to do it if you don't have the creatures you need in your hand. Dawnwalker: 4/1, with Overwhelm. When you play a creature with five or more attacks, the slain Dawnwalker is returned to the battlefield. If there are multiple such creatures in the discard pile, they will all be played together. Since you will have a lot of 5+ units, boldly attack with Dawnwalker and terrorize your opponent with constant returns. It is noteworthy that the unit will return without the curses imposed on it (Curse). It is strongly recommended that you first attack with this creature and then deploy 5+ units, then you will return the creature on the same turn. Praxis Displacer: 3/2 unit that can return a card to its owner's hand. You can return both the opponent's creature and your own. It is very useful in certain cases, for example, you can remove a curse from your unit, disarm an enemy creature, or play the summon property again. Twinbrood Sauropod: 5/4, has Echo, meaning you also draw a copy of the card. Towering Terrazon: 6/5. Just a powerful unit. Pillar of Amar: 5/5, Summons 5/5 Sentinel to the battlefield when you play power cards. Amber Monument: Played either as a strength card, or at strength five or more - 5/5 Rhinarc with Overwhelm.

There are also possible variants of creatures a little more expensive.

Predatory Carnosaur: 6/6 with the Killer property, meaning you can kill the creature with a single sight once. Great choice! Hibernating Behemoth: 4/4 minion with Fate: Gets +2/+2 on hand hit and gives the player two hit points. Not a very good option, since it requires a lot of strength, and there are no spells in the deck that allow you to return the card to the deck, thereby building attack and health for the unit.

If you have enough currency, pay attention to the legendaries.

Idol of Destran: When this unit is in hand or deck, it gets +1/+1 for each creature you played. Take your time to play this card, and towards the middle of the game you will have a minion with excellent stats. Sandstorm Titan: 5/6 creature with Endurance that prevents units from flying: this will force the opponent to fight strong monsters in your territory. At the same time, she has excellent stats for a cost of only four forces.

Optimal starting hand: At least two power cards, Initiate of the Sands, Temple Scribe, Talir's Favored, Infinite Hourglass.

Of the minuses of the deck, the absence of any spells immediately catches the eye. You cannot protect your units in any way, replenish health (despite the abundance of such cards in the yellow faction), or take control of an opponent. In addition, the opponent's flying creatures will simply ignore you (unless you have Titans). If the enemy has good removal spells, then it will also be hard with such a deck, especially if Dawnwalker will lose its properties from Silence. However, for a mono deck, this option has a very good potential, which will allow you to at least pass the Master Gauntlet without problems and, at the maximum, not lose face in Ranked matches. Also, the combat strategy is very simple and straightforward, not burdened with too complex combos, so the deck is great for beginners.

Fans of card games are always looking for something new. The reasons for this are very different. Someone has reached their ceiling in their favorite game, someone has completed all the tasks, while others have just played enough for a couple of ideas and want to take a break from their usual tasks, refresh their brains on a new simulator. Such as, for example.

is a fresh and original card game that combines casualness with hardcore and unique style, thus attracting many players who are new to CCG. Very soon the game will be released for Russian-speaking users, and it will be available both on stationary and mobile devices, which has a very positive effect on the speed of matchmaking. Unexpected wonders constantly revealed in it made me record and photograph them, which eventually prompted me to write an entire article about gameplay features.

Below is a guide that is suitable for both beginners in, and for beginners in CCI in general. I was inspired to compile by the deep intellectuality of the game, so the guide turned out to be thorough and unparalleled.

1. Taking Places and Learning the Basics

• Graveyard-Void where used spell cards and destroyed creature cards go.
• Action points. All of them are called differently (runes / sigils, mana), but the essence is the same: they are needed to pay the cost of the card. Fully replenished at the start of your turn.
• Top left button to display the last move.
• Even higher is the noseless, mouthless gray torso of a little man. Your friends are hidden in it, if you dared to add someone. It is also easy to see the nickname of the previous opponent there.

The most important thing in the game your cards in hand. Their location is easy to see if you look a little closer. The number of cards in the hand is limited, and if at the end of the turn there are more than 9, then one of the cards will have to be thrown into the abyss. And you can’t put more than 12 creatures on the table, but you can always sacrifice one to replace it with a more useful one.

The players take turns. Each move is divided into phases. In the main phase, creatures, weapons, and so on are exposed. If there are creatures on the battlefield, then they can be selected for the attack phase. In it, one player attacks, the other chooses creatures to defend. To block one creature, you can choose as many creatures as you like. After the attack, the creature loses its power and cannot block during the opponent's turn.

The attacking creature deals damage to ALL blockers if the number of its attack points is equal to or greater than the health points of the defenders. Otherwise, the attacking player will choose the creature that will take damage first.

2. Let's talk about mechanics

2.1 Essence and maps

The player who goes first is chosen randomly. Such is the tradition of classic CCGs.
Obviously, the main goal of the match is to defeat the opponent. This can be achieved two ways:

1. Reduce enemy health to 0.
2. Wait until he runs out of cards in his deck.

Damage in the game is divided into combat damage and spell damage. Combat damage is dealt by creatures and the hero during an attack, while spell damage is essentially everything else.

Since the game is a card game, it has cards(latest news!). There are four types, but there are essentially five of them: Power, Creature, Spell, Relic, and Weapon cards.

What are they for? Each turn, by default, the player can play 1 regular power card for 1 active rune and 1 world power point. Unusual cards, standards / banner and thrones / throne, give two points of world powers at once.

Rune points- a resource that is spent on playing cards. Their supply is restored every turn, and the maximum, obviously, depends on the number of cards with runes in the deck, which must be at least one third of the total number of cards in the deck. In fact, runes = mana in some other game. World power points are not spent on summoning cards at all. Rune cards are drawn from the deck along with other cards, but not together or instead of them.

Each card has its own price, indicated in the upper left corner. So, by playing one rune of Fire, you can set up a red or neutral creature as a unit. If a creature costs 1 rune, but requires two Elemental/Shadow World Powers, then you will either have to play two Shadow and Elemental moves in a row, or play one Throne/Standard card. If on turn 3 it turns out that you have no rune cards in your hand, and all creatures are 4+, then you will have to think about your own tactics, because you won’t be able to play these creatures.

Farther runes I will name everything related to power cards, and influence or points and factions- something that refers to world forces, since the phrase depresses me a little world power points.

Creatures that enter the battlefield cannot attack, but they can block. Attacked, creature Deprives of strength / Exhausted, meaning it can't block until the start of your next turn.

Many spells heal or give armor. Healing adds additional health points, so it is quite possible to increase the standard 25 health points to 100. Armor has its own counter and icon. It protects that player's health from incoming damage until the armor is reduced to zero.

weapons in turn, they called permanent gains for cards and a character. The weapon is sent into the abyss with the creature, and the player's Relic Weapon disappears when the player's last point of armor is broken. A player cannot attack another player while there are enemy creatures on the table. Note that helmets, shields and armor are also called weapons. Such is the convention of localization.

2.2 Card effects and abilities

• Aegis / Aegis- the most difficult effect to understand for beginners. Blocks one targeted enemy spell or effect such as silence, damage from preparations or destruction of weapons. Does not work against mass purges, against poison, against hunting. Appears as a blue bubble around a creature or player icon. Doesn't work in Abyss.
• Dash / Charge- the card can attack immediately after entering the table.
• Deadly Poison / Deadly- If a creature deals combat damage, the creature that takes that damage will die, regardless of its health. This means that if the carrier of the poison dealt only 0 damage, then the defender will not die.
• Double Damage / Double Damage- Allows the creature to deal double damage. For example, some creatures deal double damage to the player's face, but normal damage to other creatures.
• Combat readiness / Endurance- one of the nicest effects in the game. A creature with this perk recovers after an attack, and can block immediately after it. The creature is also unaffected by curses, shackles, and incapacitation through spells and other effects.
• Flight / Flying- Creatures with flying are only blocked by other creatures with flying.
• Hunting/Killer- Allows the creature to immediately attack any other creature outside of the attack and block phases in exchange for depowering.
• Steal Life / Lifesteal- the player receives as many health points as the damage caused by a creature with a similar effect. It doesn't matter if it killed the creature or not, you still get it. Extra health, of course.
• Suppression / Overwhelm- Creatures and spells with the ability deal excess damage not to the void, but to the enemy's face.
• Lightning strike / Quickdraw- If the attacking creature's attack is greater than the blocker's health, then the blocker dies without causing damage. Effect triggered only if the creature is attacking and not protecting the player.
• Stealth / Unblockable- by the name it is obvious that its owner is not subject to blocking by creatures.
• Warcry / Warcry- When attacked (just mark a creature to attack) with a warcry creature, the first weapon or creature in the deck is boosted by +1/+1 or more points. There are spells with the same effect model
• Revenge- when a card dies, it shuffles between the top ten cards of the deck, loses its effect, gaining an effect instead Rock. Works with spells, but only if the spell was successfully cast.

2.3 Additional effects

One of the most interesting effects can be classified as active, which greatly diversifies the gameplay. It's called Prep / Summon. When a creature hits the table, the effect described on it is triggered. Some of them have analogues among spells.

For example, Curse and Shackles / Stun. Shackle prevents an enemy creature from taking any action for two turns. The curse permanently binds the opponent's creature. Both effects are almost painlessly removed by silence.

• Silence- the second most difficult effect in the game. Removes all descriptions, curses, etc. from the card and weapon, but retains the current health and attack, unless the attack depends on the description on the card. Blocked Aegis.
• Requiem / Entomb- Creatures with Requiem/Entomb resolve the effect before going into the abyss.
• echo / echo- splits a card drawn from the deck. Works even on cards that fell into your hand on the first turn.
• Reckless / Reckless- makes the creature attack every turn, even if you would like to save it for defense. Until you mark him to attack, you will not be able to complete the turn.
• Euphoria / Ultimate requires you to pay a certain price to unlock the creature's bonus skills. A similar unnamed effect calls for the disabling of a creature in exchange for something nice, like gaining a card or destroying another creature.
• Rock / Destiny- it used to be called Autoplay, the name was changed to a more pretentious and understandable one. Incomprehensible, really. The card with the effect is immediately played upon being drawn from the deck, and the next card is automatically drawn instead.
• Hand of Fate- when a card enters the hand, a certain effect is triggered.
• Empower- Each rune card played causes a certain effect, described on the card. For example, the characteristics of a creature are increased by 1 turn. Moreover, silence does not remove characteristics, but removes the ability to further strengthen the card.
• Ambush / Ambush- an analogue of a quick spell for creatures. The effect of the card will work, the creature can be blocked. It can be used to block hunting.
• Transforms / Transmute- some rune cards turn into more combat cards after you reach 5 rune points. Into creatures, into weapons, etc.
• Empty / Depleted- the inscription means that the runes received from the card are inactive (empty) until the next turn, if the necessary conditions are not met.
• Guile / Infiltrate- if the card deals damage to the player for the first time, then the effect described on the creature card is triggered, sometimes very strong. A very insidious effect indeed, since how does it work if damage from Suppression, also procs from cards that deal direct damage. A good example would be a map Kalderan Armourers, whose Training reads "the enemy hero takes 1 damage for each of your creatures on the battlefield." You already guessed that deceit procs from that unit of damage?
• Distortion / Warp- You can see a card with this ability when it is on top of the deck and play it. In short, as if the card is in your hand, remaining the top card of the deck.
• Mentor / Mentor- allow you to drain the strength of one of the creatures ready for battle on the table in order to designate it as an Apprentice / Student. Cannot be applied to cards that have already lost their powers.
• Life Force- when a player gains health points, a certain effect is played. Moreover, some effects, such as receiving an additional card or summoning a creature, will work if you set them after gaining health, but in the same turn.
• Spark / Spark- Cards gain an additional effect if played after an enemy player has received face damage.

After a few games, you will notice that almost all the creatures in the game have a signature that defines their biological species. Alas, this almost does not affect the game itself. Signed cards only Tagged/Strangers really synergize with each other so much that they can be assembled into a huge, unnecessary and non-playing deck based purely on the name of the cards.

It seems that the main purpose of these subclass signatures is to complicate the work of translators, especially when they encounter male Valkyries or Japanese Oni demons, a copy of the MTG samurai deck, who were called demons. This is not important, but it gives information that a fairly large amount of data in the game is completely useless at the moment, but gives bright hopes for the future. Although there was a subclass that was generally removed from the game, which was called nightsworn.

Some smart people, card game legends, strategists and shooter elites, will ask: why do newbies need to know, for example, that there is a legendary card in the red deck that shuffles bombs into the opponent's deck? Well, the answer is obvious - this card is often found in PvE game modes, and even a beginner will find it very useful to know that the legendary red bombs are not blocked by Aegis. Or that the invulnerability effect only ignores combat damage.

3. Influence, runes, powers, factions, world powers

In the company you will get acquainted with the main mechanics, and, after completing the full course, you will become the proud owner of 5 base decks. That is how many primary colors of cards are in the game. Each deck is unique and interesting, so I'll have to talk a little about each.

Shadow deck (purple) / Shadow, as many have already guessed, vile, insidious, sending, killing, stealing, blood-sucking and very dangerous. Willingly uses a rich arsenal of black magic, manipulates cards from the abyss cemetery, sacrifices his own minions. Good for both aggro and control.

As it happens, most of the creatures in this deck are associated with the desert, so genie-like Spectrals, various researchers and a whole bunch of bugs have found shelter in it. Despite being deceptively slow, the deck is able to take over the board with many weak creatures and bolster their strength with rare artifacts and spells.

Elemental Deck (Blue) / Primal combines snow, water and air creatures. The main idea of ​​the deck is powerful sorcery, sorting through cards and controlling the board with curses. While the enemy looks at the full table of shackled creatures, his face is caressed with weighty kicks by wind nymphs and dragons.

By type, players distinguish 5 archetypes: aggro, combo, control, tempo and madrange.

Agro- a fast deck for aggressively pressing the opponent.

Combo, in which the player sits on the defensive and waits for the desired combo, which is guaranteed to bring victory, or all his cards synergize with each other. A simple example is sacrificing weak creatures to strengthen others or draw new cards from the deck.

Control, when a player just sits on the defensive, and then exposes strong creatures, or constantly clears the table.

Tempo decks calculated by playing cards for each move and pressing the opponent, outpacing the opponent in pace. The effect is achieved by destroying important enemy creatures or by playing very strong creatures. If you were able to throw a strong creature into the abyss, and then put it on turn 2 - this is the pace.

Midrange, in which the player tries to put strong creatures on the board as quickly as possible.

Many will immediately notice that some types are combined and naturally can be aggro control decks, control combos, etc.

All the colors of the decks are also very well combined with each other, and the developers gave each combination of colors the name and history of the faction. I won’t write about them, this is for enthusiasts, but the names are easy to peep on the rune maps.

4. Cards and deck building

Rune cards are very diverse. There are regular cards that only grant a rune for 1 faction. Other cards after 5 runes transform into creatures, and are always empty when used. The third cards are marked with two colors at once and have special effects:

• Thrones / Seat enter the field empty if there are no ordinary runes in hand.
• Standards / Banners are empty as long as there are no creatures on the table.

According to the uniqueness of the cards are divided into:

• Ordinary cards. You will have to pay 50 stones for the creation. 1 stone per spray
• Unusual. -100 crafting/+10 disenchanting
• Rare.-800/+200
• Promo cards. Issued only on special occasions. -600/+100
• Legendary. -3200/+800

5. Main features of the game

So far, there are only two options in the campaign: a free campaign and a campaign for 20,000 gold, in which you yourself choose a deck against 16 opponents. For the passage will give a collection of cards.

Gold is pretty easy to farm. It is given for obtaining achievements (1000 damage, 1000 creatures killed, etc.). Otherwise, it drops from chests. The most miserable chests are bronze. They drop one common/uncommon card and 50 gold. Silver chests drop slightly better rewards, and gold chests can drop card packs. The more valuable the chest, the higher the reward. The most pleasant chests are issued for high achievements during the season and for completing special modes. Chests sometimes pop up other chests of higher value.

Types of chests

• Bronze ~ 50 gold and a regular card.
• Silver ~ 250 gold and an uncommon card.
• Golden ~ 500 gold and set.
• Diamond ~ 2000 gold, 1 or 2 sets, random premium card.

5.1 PvE modes

Forge of Worlds / Forge much more interesting. You will have to pay 2500 gold for the entrance. Next, you need to collect a deck of 25 random cards, which after passing will remain in your collection. The computer provokes you to choose from two colors and will continue to issue cards that match the style. You can get at least 1 rare and 2-3 uncommon or premium cards.

The goal is to defeat 7 opponents before 2 defeats. The reward will be a pile of gold and possibly 5 packs. But even for 5-6 opponents, the spent gold is practically reimbursed. The rank goes up in the same way as in the Trial, and the difficulty goes up.

I recommend building fast two-color decks, as the 50-card limit is very hard on control decks. I guarantee that the AI ​​won more than once just because they were drawing non-stop and depleting the deck. And when there are no cards left in the deck, then its owner is defeated.

At the end of each season (before the release of a new set of cards), the rank for PvE is reset to zero.

5.2 PvP modes

General games / Casual- the main PvP mode, where there is no rating system, but they regularly give 20-30 gold for a victory, and a chest for every third victory. In this mode, you can complete quests in which the completion condition is PvP mode, and receive a reward for the first victory of the day.

Ranked games / Ranked- standard mode for competitions. Choose any deck and conquer the ladder. You start with the bronze league, which has three levels. Every three levels - a league increase. So everyone has a chance to get through the silver league, gold, diamond and get into the master league. For each victory, a bronze chest is issued, for every fourth, seventh and tenth - a silver chest. At the end of the season, players will receive a reward for the achieved rank.

fight- analogue of the Forge of Worlds. Only costs 5000. And a very high chance of getting a legendary card. It's full of arena masters who scare newbies with mind-blowing card combinations. The whole point is that the player is given sets of cards, and he chooses cards for himself in turn with the computer. Once selected, the deck building menu will open, so you can draw cards of different colors and change the deck as the competition progresses. So for 5000 you will get a lot more cards and stones than for just buying five sets if you learn how to win.

Pack of Tips #1

• In a month of not very intensive play, you will collect almost the entire collection of cards of the standard set. So if you like flashy decks, consider whether you should destroy premium cards.
• You can reduce the number of cards in the deck. You must click on the left side of the card in the list in the deck. The increase in the number of cards occurs by clicking on the number that displays the number of cards in the deck.
• Gain experience to defeat any opponents. Right now the game is almost perfectly balanced, and even aggressive decks don't have a clear advantage over others.
• Every three days you will receive a new themed deck and a quest to play on it. They are better than standard decks. I recommend that you immediately complete the tasks associated with them, as they can crowd out the usual daily quests.
• The best option is to assemble a two-color deck. And not necessarily red and green.
• Buying packs is not very efficient. With a little learning to play, you can get much more benefits from paid modes. See for yourself: buy 2 packs for 2000 for 24 random cards, or play the Forge of Worlds for 2500, choose 25 cards yourself, get rewards for victories.

Pack of tips #2

• Don't be afraid to go over 75 cards. More than 150 still do not add. If the deck has an idea, you can get to gold rank or destroy AI in trials.
• Draft cards are determined by the value of the card, based on the ratio of characteristics + effects / mana
• Attack with all creatures at once - A / F button.
• Pay close attention to the order in which the runes are placed.
• Use the pauses between moves to think. And notice the pauses of the enemy, they are very informative in terms of possible responses to your aggression on his part.
• If you speak English, then I advise the site eternalwarcry.com, where tournament decks are often published.
• For those who like to play campaigns: Act 6 of the first campaign is easy to beat if you just clear the board until you have 10-15 cards left in your deck, only then hit the face. Then you will have a high chance of immediately getting the Throne of Infinity and winning the game.
• Think carefully about your received hand. Maybe one or two mana cards will be enough for you to gain an advantage, since the rest of the cards are very cheap? Or should you leave a hand with a lot of runes, since the rest of the cards will help you survive until the strong cards are drawn?

in Russian will be released in Russia summer 2017 and will be distributed through the game center Mail.Ru. A localized version for mobile platforms - iOS and Android - will appear a little later. Cross-platform plays a special role. You can participate in battles anywhere - on your home computer, tablet or smartphone. For all platforms, identical mechanics have been preserved, as well as the preservation of progress, experience and rewards.