Tea tea traditions. Traditions of Russian tea drinking

Ekaterina Kachura-Falileeva

For several days now I have been reading amazing stories about Russian tea traditions and simply admiring the individual authors of these stories - what a fantasy one must have! I somehow survived the “ancient schools of Russian martial arts” and even the “combat hopak”. However, the ceremony of Russian tea drinking is already beyond my mind.

I will not now quote the nonsense about “age-old Russian primordial tea traditions”, but will very briefly retell the story of how tea appeared in Russia and how the “unshakable” traditions of drinking this drink changed over time. True, honestly, it can be much more interesting than invented traditions.

The history of the appearance of tea in Russia

Polina Luchanova

There are several theories about the appearance of tea in our country. There is a theory from Westerners (here, even tea in our country cannot do without politics) about how Peter I brought coffee, pipes with tobacco, curly Hungarian caftans, shaved chins and tea to Russia. Slavophiles argue with the Westerners, who recall the Cossack campaigns in China at the very beginning of the sixteenth century. They also remember Tsar Mikhail Fedorovich Romanov, to whom the Chinese ambassadors brought several boxes of tea.

My dears! If we are talking about Russian tea drinking as a national tradition, then why do we remember Mikhail Romanov and his descendant Peter? Well, they brought (or gave them) tea, so what? A search of the former minister Ulyukayev found 3-kilogram gold coins. Can I say that the Russians at the beginning of the twenty-first century had a tradition of casting gold coins weighing three kilograms?

Tea, as a drink, appeared in Russia long before the Romanovs, and this phenomenon happened during the time of the Mongol invasion. It can be assumed that Siberian Cossacks and Ural Cossacks knew about tea, who simply could not help but communicate with their eastern neighbors, who had been drinking this very tea for a very long time.

However, for many centuries, the domestic consumer has chosen a domestic manufacturer and preferred his own soft drinks: kvass (of which there were a huge number of types), sbiten, all kinds of fruit and berry boils and overcooks, honey and even cabbage soup, which were so carbonated that they required special strong dishes .

The attack of tea on Russia began at the very end of the seventeenth century. First, Moscow became a tea city, then Nizhny Novgorod became the center of the tea trade. In those days, tea was quite expensive, and therefore it was drunk mainly by aristocrats and wealthy merchants. We can say that somewhere at the end of the seventeenth century, a fashion for “refined Western life” appeared in Russia. Enlightened Europeans do not drink kvass. They eat coffee and tea. So the “elites” reached out for fashion.

However, the price of tea gradually decreased, since tea in China was not bought, but exchanged for fabrics, dressed leather, and metallurgy products. Accordingly, with the development of industry in Russia, the cost of its own products decreased and automatically, since the trade was barter, the cost of tea decreased.

Delivery was the main issue. Russia was the only European country that delivered tea by land. There were pluses in such a delivery (tea did not tolerate sea travel and significantly lost quality), but there was also a big minus - thousands of kilometers on horseback. It takes a long time, and therefore very expensive.

And only by the beginning of the nineteenth century, all classes began to drink tea. By this time, the Samara-Ufa and Yekaterinburg-Tyumen railways had been built, which significantly accelerated delivery. And besides, tea began to be imported by sea, including from India and Ceylon. The price of tea simply collapsed and all classes began to drink it. In 1886, tea was introduced into the army food allowance, and from 1890, workers in factories began to drink tea.

Aristocrats drank expensive Chinese elite teas and European flavored teas. The merchants preferred black tea, with a good dark infusion, not as strong as it was brewed among aristocrats, but in much larger quantities. Ordinary people, traditionally, drank low-grade tea. At the same time, the first falsified teas appeared.

It must be said that in the nineteenth century tea was not drunk in all of Russia. They drank tea in Siberia and the Urals, on the Lower Volga, in Moscow and its environs. But St. Petersburg preferred coffee for a long time. They did not drink tea in Ukraine, in Belarus, on the Don and in the Middle Volga region. In the first half of the 19th century, 60% of tea imported into Russia was consumed by Moscow. However, by the end of the nineteenth century, tea had already spread throughout the entire territory of the Russian Empire and the country came out on top in the world in terms of tea consumption (excluding China, since there were no statistics on tea consumption in China then, so there is none now).

At the end of the 19th century, tea began to grow in Russia. By the way, very decent varieties were grown, which received medals at international exhibitions and were rated by connoisseurs even higher than ordinary Chinese black teas.

Boris Kustodiev

The very first tea rituals and traditions appeared in Russia at the end of the eighteenth century. These traditions formed two estates: the nobility and the merchant class. The nobles preferred the English tea ceremony - an immaculately set table, china sets, milk and cream, sugar and sophisticated conversation about the high.

Tea was served dry, in a special teapot. Tea was brewed directly at the table and brewed very strong.

However, very soon English traditions were corrected in a Russian way - carved glasses and silver coasters for men appeared. The ladies drank tea from porcelain cups. Rum was added to tea. Then tea appeared on the open verandas, no longer in a teapot, but in a samovar, jam, flour products, sweets began to be served on the table. This is the tradition of the landowner's tea drinking. Summer, country house, bunches of lilacs and rose bushes, romantic sunset. In general, "how delightful evenings are in Russia."

The merchants had their own tea traditions - a plentiful table with a samovar, jam and honey, an abundance of pastries, from dryers and bagels to pies, “two-harsh sturgeons; beluga in brine; "banquet veal"; creamy white turkey stuffed with walnuts; "half-and-half pies" from sterlet and burbot livers; piglet with horseradish; piglet with porridge. And drinking tea from a saucer. Merchants drank tea with taste - for a long time and a lot. With such a meal, repeated brewing of tea was not very convenient, and therefore a large teapot appeared in which tea was brewed very strong, and then diluted with boiling water from the samovar directly in the cup. This is how a purely Russian tradition of two-tea brewing appeared, which, in general. It exists to this day. In the same period, the "woman on the teapot" appeared.

A separate tradition was the “tea catering” of Tsarist Russia - tea was served in taverns “in pairs”, in two teapots: a small teapot with tea leaves and a large one with boiling water, the client himself poured the tea leaves into the bowl and diluted it with boiling water to his liking. The taverns remembered the aristocratic "habit" of drinking tea from glasses - glass was cheaper than porcelain, and a glass could be used not only for tea, but also for serving alcohol.

In buffets and cheap taverns, tea was served directly in glasses. And since the price was charged precisely for a glass, the visitors demanded to pour tea to the edges of the glass. Thus, another tradition appeared - to pour a full cup of tea to the guest. Tea, not in a cheap tavern, and nothing is a pity for a dear guest.

Tea in taverns was drunk with a variety of snacks, for business or sincere conversations.

Somewhat later, a petty-bourgeois tea tradition appeared in Russia. Here financial opportunities were more modest, and ambitions were almost aristocratic. We drank tea for conversation. One teaspoon of dry tea was relied on a teapot, the tea was kept for 15 minutes and poured into cups, and then it was also diluted with boiling water. Served with tea and simple snacks. An obligatory part of the bourgeois tea party was a cultural program - initially it was the performance of songs with a guitar. So, by the way, Russian urban romance appeared. Another Russian tea tradition.

Tea can be called the leader among drinks in all countries. He is loved in the East, revered in foggy England, appreciated in Europe. Many beautiful and unusual legends are associated with the history of the emergence of tea. In the culture of different peoples, there are traditions and rules for the consumption of this drink.

China

“Every cup of tea drunk ruins the pharmacist,” says a Chinese proverb, emphasizing the faith of the people in the healing properties of tea. In this country, this drink has long been treated with special reverence. Created by the Chinese, the tea ceremony has been a privilege of the upper strata of society for many years. In China, the classical traditions of tea drinking are still preserved, according to which tea is a vital necessity. Careful selection, a long process of brewing tea leaves, leisurely absorption - all this is part of the traditions of China, through which respect for the elderly, family values, and a friendly attitude towards interlocutors are emphasized.

Rules for brewing a drink

For proper brewing of tea leaves, the Chinese use "gaiwan" - a special bowl with an extended neck and a lid, into which about 5 g of tea is poured and poured with a small amount of boiling water for 3 minutes. Tea is poured from the vessel very carefully, slightly moving, but without opening the lid, in order to preserve the delicate aroma longer.

Japan

The ritual of tea drinking among the Japanese is a series of unhurried actions that set the ceremony participants in a philosophical mood and dispose to calmness, equanimity and peacefulness. The tradition of tea drinking in Japan is thought out to the smallest detail, there are even special clothes for tea ceremonies. Refreshments are usually held in a special tea house, the doors of which are designed in such a way that everyone who enters is forced to bow his head, thereby showing that bad thoughts remain outside this house.

Brewing traditions

Powdered tea is placed in a ceramic container and poured with boiling water at a ratio of 200 g of tea to 500 ml of boiling water. Then, with a bamboo stick with obligatory phrases corresponding to the ceremony, the contents are whipped to a state of foam. The resulting drink is served to the guest of honor, who, after admiring the tea vessel, takes the first few sips, and then passes it on to the next participant in the tea party.

Vietnam

“There is no traditional tea ceremony in Vietnam, but, nevertheless, the Vietnamese treat this drink with respect. In reverence. It is brewed very strongly until it acquires a bitter taste. Tea is served both hot and cold, sometimes even ice is specially added.

The list of popular additives includes chrysanthemum, jasmine and lotus petals. The Vietnamese drink much less. Of the brands choose Lipton. In some menus, you can find such wordings: “hot Lipton”, “Lipton with ice”, “Lipton with milk”. When ordering the latter, they bring a bag of tea and a glass of boiling water, at the bottom of which there is one and a half centimeters of condensed milk,” comments orientalist Daria Mishukova.

England

“In modern England, tea ceremonies are treated with less reverence than before. Many traditions have disappeared. Now the British drink tea at any time of the day, and not as before at strictly allotted - 17.00. Demonstration ceremonies are arranged only for curious tourists.

Most English people (90%) prefer black tea to all other types. Strongly brewed tea is drunk with sugar, some add honey or jam to the cup. They drink a hot drink most often with cookies. The second most popular tea is green. It can be ordered in Japanese and Chinese restaurants. Red, and, of course, you can buy, but there is not much demand for them. Young people prefer more", - said the owner of the Five o "clock cafe in Vladivostok, Barry Adamson.

Uzbekistan

Tea in Uzbekistan is the most revered drink, for the consumption of which special rooms, called "teahouse", are built.

How to brew and drink

A vessel for brewing a drink requires a ceramic one, which is rinsed with boiling water. Then the tea leaves are placed in the teapot, poured with boiling water, and the vessel is carefully moved up and down several times in order to ensure that the tea leaf is fully opened. The drink is not poured immediately, but first poured three times from the teapot into the bowl for a better manifestation of taste. Tea is poured into a bowl for three sips so that the guest can appreciate the attention of the host, who will tirelessly pour the drink into the bowl.

Kyrgyzstan

Tea drinking is an integral part of the cuisine of the peoples of Kyrgyzstan. Any feast certainly begins and ends with tea. They certainly drink it from bowls, which the owner fills only half, emphasizing his respect for the guest. In most cases, the man, the head of the family, is engaged in pouring and brewing tea.

The national Kyrgyz drink, called kuurma-chai, is prepared with salt, milk, pepper and fried in oil. Tea is traditionally served with cakes - boorsok. On holidays, a special tea infusion is brewed with sugar, cloves, as well as orange juice. In Kyrgyzstan, they often drink a warm drink, which helps the body absorb fatty foods and quenches thirst very well.

“The territorial location of this country leaves its mark on the preferences of citizens. In the mountains, the pressure is high, so people try to balance it on their own with the help of food and drinks. Green tea is the adult favorite. It lowers the pressure. Often lemon or milk is added to it. Young people choose black tea, but they don’t brew it much, as it increases blood pressure,” said Alexandra Fatkhutdinova, tea master at the Khlopok tea house in Vladivostok.

Russia

In Russia, tea appeared thanks to the Cossacks, who presented a box with fragrant leaves to the tsar. The fashion for tea drinking, spreading first in the upper strata of society, subsequently fell in love with the whole people. Before the advent of tea in Russia, it was customary to brew various herbs, fruits and roots, for example, leaves,. The tradition of drinking tea was liked not only by its taste and aromatic properties, but also by the manner of preparing the drink. Brewing tea in Russia has acquired its own characteristics. Russian craftsmen invented a samovar for boiling water, an indispensable attribute of every home. He became the personification of kindness, warmth and homeliness, gathering the whole family around him in the evenings.

At present, varieties of Krasnodar, Georgian, Indian, Ceylon, and, of course, Chinese tea are widely distributed in Russia.

Tea drinking in Russia is characterized by its own national peculiarity: dilute infused concentrated tea leaves prepared separately with boiling water, thereby regulating the strength of the drink. Sometimes tea leaves are poured and insisted a second time, but not more than once. Tea in Russia is drunk with or without sugar, usually served with sweets, jam, honey, pastries, sandwiches.

The offer to drink a cup of tea in Russia speaks of hospitality, and therefore the owners strive to treat everyone who comes to the house. Unlike the countries of the East, it is customary here to pour a full mug, thereby emphasizing that the host is happy with the guest and wants to keep him as long as possible.

Slow tea drinking in a cozy home environment is a small family tradition with a long history. In the old days, it was accompanied by a whole ceremony with its established ritual and invariable paraphernalia. Some customs, without suspecting it, we continue to observe today. We invite you to turn to the tea traditions of the past and come up with your own. We remember, get inspired and fantasize together with Peroni, the master of exquisite sweets.

The path of tea to the Russian heart

It is hard to believe, but for a very long time tea could not take root in our country. Burning herbal sbiten and fragrant Ivan-tea were much dearer to the Russian heart. Chronicles testify that tea appeared in Russia in the 16th century. The Cossack atamans were the first to bring it as a valuable gift from China. It took a century for the outlandish drink to be tasted properly. For about the same time, tea was considered a luxury and was drunk exclusively in high society. It became available to the general public only in the 19th century.

At the same time, one of the first traditions in the Russian style appeared - tea establishments for commoners with long common tables. They came here to exchange fresh gossip and have a glass of tea. Probably, another primordially Russian tradition, known throughout the world, was born here. Namely, to drink tea from glasses with cup holders. Most often they were cast from an alloy of copper and nickel. In noble houses, silver coasters flaunted on the tables.

A very special tradition is tea drinking in a merchant's way. In the center of the table was placed a samovar bursting with heat, a true symbol of home comfort and prosperity. From above they seated an elegant red-cheeked doll, or “a woman on a teapot”. Such warmer cases made of dense matter helped keep the drink hot longer. It was customary to pour tea from a cup into a saucer, put it on an outstretched palm and serbat with gusto, that is, suck it in loudly and without any hesitation.

Tea-drinking in Russian has always been striking in scope and rarely goes without refreshments, even in poor homes. Kalachi, dryers, bagels or sweet crackers were always there for tea. The nobles preferred to feast on fruits, berries, nuts, buns and oriental sweets. Even then, cakes, waffles, cookies and chocolate could be seen on the tables. But perhaps the most favorite delicacy of all classes was an ordinary slice of white bread, heartily smeared with homemade jam.

Sugar as high art

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With special pleasure in Russia they drank tea as a bite. It was done like this. The hostess broke off small pieces from a heavy sugar loaf and served them on a saucer along with tea. Such sugar, unlike the refined sugar we are accustomed to, slowly melted in the mouth like a lollipop. So a few slices were enough for a whole tea party.

This tradition is skilfully embodied in Peroni's signature sugar line. "Sugar with lavender" in lollipops with a marvelous floral aroma and amazing taste will become a refined and very original treat for tea. You will always find the right kind of tea in the Peroni collection. They may well be black tea Black Diamond. This is a real plantation Indian tea of ​​the highest quality with a harmonious blend and a deep rich taste.

The multi-faceted aroma and rich palette of shades will please the leaf black tea "Golden Leaf". This drink perfectly tones and gives inspiring cheerfulness. It will successfully complement its bright citrus accent in the form of Sicilian Orange sugar, shimmering with radiant juicy notes. The chef of the Culinary Studio Julia Vysotskaya had a hand in creating this taste.

Another interesting co-creation product is Ceylon Cinnamon Sugar. It will give the drink a languid aroma of sweet spices and immerse you in the captivating atmosphere of an oriental fairy tale. And if you prefer berry motifs, Peroni sugar with strawberries or currants will give you a real pleasure. Bright bewitching tastes will decorate gloomy cold weekdays with sunny summer colors.

By the way, if you are looking for an unusual gift for any holiday, the Peroni sugar collection will be a win-win solution. Elegant glass jars are complemented by original transparent lids with bright seductive decor inside. Such a spectacular present will be remembered for a long time and will become an interesting decoration of the interior in the kitchen.

A kaleidoscope of honey fads

Another traditional treat, without which one cannot imagine tea drinking in Russian, is natural honey. If you are not indifferent to this wonderful delicacy, then you will find a lot of pleasure in the Peroni collection. However, this is not even honey, but something special and fantastically tasty. Honey soufflé is the very embodiment of tenderness, care and love. The unique airy texture envelops the taste buds with sweet velvet, melts on the tongue and gives a delicious sensation.

Agree, tea for such an exquisite sweetness should be special. Pu-erh, which is highly valued all over the world, will do just fine. "Palace Puer" Peroni gives the drink a deep aroma, combining notes of wet tree bark and sun-warmed earth. Honey-soufflé "Pine Nut" will allow you to reveal its power and palette in all its glory, and at the same time add charming nutty nuances.

Prefer refined classic variations? Then be sure to try the "Red Diamond". Selected raw materials for this branded tea are supplied from historical plantations and processed according to traditional technologies. The honey-soufflé "Ginger with lemon" will perfectly complement such a drink. Delicate velvety honey, spicy bitterness of ginger and juicy sourness of lemon together create a unique harmony of taste.

"Milk oolong" with expressive creamy caramel shades is a special kind of delight. The secret of a stunning multi-faceted bouquet lies in the strong tea base and the skillful interweaving of aromas. An ideal pair of such tea will be Bourbon Vanilla honey soufflé. By the way, this taste was developed by Peroni experts together with the chefs of the Culinary Studio Julia Vysotskaya. In the signature line, you will find three more joint honey creations. Cinnamon Apple, Viennese Coffee and Sicilian Orange are Yulia Vysotskaya's favorite combinations, which are good not only as an addition to tea, but also as an original ingredient for your homemade cakes and author's desserts.

Tea traditions continue their way, take on new forms and invariably deliver incomparable pleasure. Let your family also have their own traditions. You will find everything you need for this in the Peroni branded line. Elite varieties of tea, refined aromatic sugar and a collection of unusual honey soufflés will turn the most ordinary home tea party into a small family holiday.

Tea is a favorite drink of the peoples of different countries. He is revered in foggy Great Britain, he is loved in the East, it is difficult to imagine Russia without tea. Each nation has created its own tradition of tea drinking, tea ceremonies in many countries are beautiful rituals. For cooking, special utensils are used, the rules for drinking tea are observed.

The Chinese believe in the healing powers of tea, so in this country it is treated with special reverence. The Chinese tea ceremony is called Gong Fu Cha. For many centuries, it was available only to the nobility. But gradually it began to be used everywhere. During the ceremony, a special set of dishes is used, including gaiwan, chachuan, chaban, cha lu, cha hai, cha he and tea pairs.

The process of brewing tea leaves turns into a real art, which only true masters own. For brewing, only high-mountain oolongs are taken. Much attention is paid to the quality of tea and water. Reception of tea in China is a leisurely business, during tea drinking there is a leisurely conversation. The Chinese believe that tea should clarify the mind, put thoughts in order. With the help of the tea ceremony, respect for family values, the elderly and dear guests is expressed.

Japanese tea ceremony

In Japan, the tea ceremony is thought out to the smallest detail, it includes about 100 different rules. There are not only special utensils for brewing and drinking tea, but also special clothes for the master and those participating in the tea party. The ritual is carried out in a tea house, its doors are arranged in such a way that everyone who enters it bows his head. This is done in order to show that bad thoughts are left behind the threshold, and you entered the house with good thoughts. Although the ritual itself begins on the way to the tea house, which passes through the stones laid in a special way. Shoes must be removed upon entry.

Tea, ground into powder, is placed in a ceramic container and poured with boiling water. The contents are whipped to a state of foam with a bamboo stick. The most honored guest receives the drink first, he takes the first sip, and then passes the vessel with tea to the next participant in the tea party. Sometimes the tea master himself tastes the drink first. Strong tea is served in a common bowl, then “liquid tea” is served in separate bowls for each. Trays of cakes are brought to him. It takes more than one year to master the Japanese ceremony. There is night tea, with sunrise, afternoon tea. Each of them has its own specificity.

Tea ceremony in Uzbekistan

In Uzbekistan, special establishments have been built where they drink tea. They are called "teahouse". For brewing, a ceramic vessel is used, which is first rinsed with boiling water to warm it up. Then tea leaves are added to it, brewed with boiling water. The vessel is gently rolled to ensure full disclosure of the tea leaf. The drink is not poured immediately, you need to pour the tea into the bowl and back three times, then the taste will become brighter. Each guest is given a bowl, into which the host pours tea for three sips. The owner will make sure that the bowl is not empty, constantly adding to the drink.

Features of tea drinking in Kyrgyzstan

The Kyrgyz are very fond of tea, so any feast begins with tea drinking and ends with it. Tea is drunk from bowls, which are placed on the table according to the number of guests. Only the head of the family is engaged in brewing tea, as well as serving guests, emphasizing his respect. The bowls are half filled.

Kuurma tea is considered the national Kyrgyz drink. It is made from flour, pepper, milk and salt fried in butter. A special tea is brewed on holidays. Cloves, cinnamon, sugar, orange and lemon juice are added to it. Tea is served warm, which helps to quench thirst and assimilate fatty foods. Favorite tea is green. Lemon is added to it, and sometimes milk.

Tea ceremony in England

No Englishman can refuse a cup of tea. The tradition appeared in the 19th century, when it became customary to drink tea in the afternoon. It was started by the Duchess of Bedford - Anna. At 5 pm, a small company gathered at the table to drink a cup of tea and eat light sandwiches. The tradition has been preserved to this day. Serving is of great importance in the English ceremony. A tablecloth must be laid on the table, a vase with fresh flowers is placed. For tea drinking you need a porcelain service. The British love sets of white and blue. Mandatory milk jug, sugar bowl, teapot.

A feature of brewing is the presence of milk. And tea is necessarily poured into warmed milk, and not vice versa. The British drink tea at strictly allotted hours: at breakfast, at one o'clock in the afternoon - during second breakfast and at 5 o'clock in the evening. Black tea is more popular in this country, green tea is in second place. There is no special demand for white, yellow and red teas. They drink tea slowly, talking decorously, enjoying a drink and snacks.

Tea tradition in Russia

Tea appeared in Russia in the 16th century; before that, a tea drink was prepared from various roots, herbs, and fruits. Ivan-tea, cherry, currant, linden leaves were widely used. After the overseas drink came to the court, there was a tradition of brewing tea in a samovar. The samovar gathered the whole family at the table in the evenings. He personified home comfort and warmth of the family hearth. Sugar was always put on the table, but not sand, but lumpy, which the head of the house pricked with special tweezers. They drank tea with bagels, bagels, gingerbread. Honey was widely used.

Now in Russia you can buy any kind of tea: Ceylon, Krasnodar, Indian, Chinese. They love both green and black tea equally. A feature of brewing tea in Russian is that tea is brewed in a strong concentration, in order to dilute it with boiling water later. Sometimes the tea is brewed again. Each guest is offered tea, but unlike the countries of the East, in Russia it is customary to pour a full mug. This shows that the host is happy with the guest.

Tea ceremony in India

In India, tea is very much loved and appreciated. The ceremony lasts longer than in England. She is solid and solemn. In tea drinking, disposable clay cups are used - kullarchs. Often, various spices, milk, sugar are used for cooking. The most famous Indian drink is masala. It is boiled in milk with the addition of a large amount of spices. Indian sweets are served with tea: farsan, pakora, nasta.

There are many tea shops in India where chaiwals offer to taste Indian tea. Tea is brewed and stored in special containers, somewhat reminiscent of. They keep tea hot for a long time. A feature of brewing is the saturation of tea. It must be strong, served with sugar and milk.

The term “globalization” had not yet been coined, and goods were already roaming the world, bringing borrowed tastes, habits, and manners to every culture. So foreign tea has infiltrated Russian life imperceptibly and unobtrusively. The exact date of its appearance in Russia remains in question. One gets the impression that samovars have been boiling in huts since time immemorial, and tea drinking has always been an original Russian tradition.

In the time of Ivan the Terrible, tea was known only by hearsay. Russian ambassadors, Cossack chieftains Yalyshev and Petrov, who returned in 1567 from a Russian trip to the Chinese Empire, are considered the first to tell about the unusual drink. However, historians have found evidence that a hundred years earlier, in the middle of the 15th century, during the reign of Ivan III, Eastern merchants were already bringing tea to Russia.

In 1618, Tsar Mikhail Fedorovich Romanov received a royal gift from the Mongolian Altyn Khan - four pounds of tea leaves. The drink did not impress the court, and ordinary Muscovites felt nothing for tea, except for curiosity.

The second tsar of the Romanov dynasty, Alexei Mikhailovich, had problems with digestion, and the healers sold him tea. The result pleased everyone, the "life force" of the tea drink was highly appreciated. In the medicinal recipes of that time, tea appeared as a medicinal ingredient, and this was its main use.

Soon trade agreements were signed with China, and tea became a subject of exchange, most often for valuable furs. The quantity of goods was then measured in camels, and the product was transported in cybics.

Cybik - a package or box lined with raw leather and filled with dry tea weighing about 40 kg.

The superficial acquaintance of Russians with a fragrant drink grew into true love thanks to Catherine II, who herself had a weakness for overseas potion. Invigorating properties were noticed, its taste was appreciated, and communication with tea began to bring pleasure.

During the reign of Catherine II, six thousand “loaded camels” of tea leaves were consumed per year. The Empress personally supervised the tea caravans and the production of tableware at the Imperial Porcelain Factory. Under her rule, Moscow quickly turned into the tea capital of Russia.

It took more than six months for a convoy of horse-drawn carts to travel across Russia's vast expanses from China through all of Siberia and further to Moscow. Therefore, tea was a very long-awaited, expensive and inaccessible product for the common people.

During the reign of the Romanovs in the 17th century, royal receptions were held with tea drinking. Boyars and wealthy merchants drank it, who, moreover, seized on the "tea business" and began to make a fortune on it. It wasn't until the next century that tea spread to the nobility and middle class merchants.

In Russia, there was a tendency for him to replace traditional Russian drinks (sbiten, honey), which had a sweetish taste. This is probably why women did not like it because of the bitterness, especially since it was originally drunk without sugar. Strong tea was considered a man's drink.

In the second half of the 19th century, Indian and Ceylon varieties also began to be imported through the port of Odessa, and railways joined the transportation. In a short time, tea turned into an affordable product, and towards the end of the 19th century, all the estates of tsarist Russia drank it. At the same time, low-grade cheap varieties appeared on the market.

How different classes drank tea

Tea gradually descended along the hierarchical levels of society to the very bottom. Each layer of the population tried to imitate the higher ones, but due to limited opportunities, they brought something of their own and adjusted the tea ritual for themselves.

Refined aristocrats copied the British in many ways - impeccable table setting, beautiful dishes, a milkman. Here they used expensive Chinese tea of ​​rare varieties, which was brought in dry form and brewed at the table.

The nobles initially, before the advent of porcelain tea utensils, drank it from carved glasses in glass holders. An integral part of the tea party was communication, in fact, for this purpose, the company gathered at the tea table.

Merchants and wealthy landowners flaunted their prosperity and measured their wallets. The tea ceremony was a great opportunity to stand out, so it was furnished with all the pomp and attributes of abundance: a samovar, various jams, honey, a variety of sweet and salty pastries.

Tea drinking lasted long and thoroughly, the cups were filled many times. They drank tea from a saucer. Considering the amount drunk, the tea leaves were made very strong so that they lasted for a long time, and they diluted it in cups with boiling water. Varieties used such that give a rich dark color.

The philistines - officials, shopkeepers, innkeepers and city dwellers - imitated the rich estates, and gathered for tea like aristocrats. Lacking financial resources, they still tried to lay a plentiful table in the merchant's manner.

Tea was expensive, so they took the cheapest variety and diluted it to a translucent state. Appetizers were simple. Gatherings were accompanied not only by conversations, but also by songs, often performed with a guitar.

It is believed that Russian urban romance with a guitar arose and took shape in a musical genre during the time of petty-bourgeois tea parties. With a simple and small tool, it was convenient to sit at the table.

Its own culture of tea drinking developed in tsarist Russia in public catering. In taverns, tea was served in two teapots, which were placed one on top of the other and were a prototype of a samovar: boiling water in the lower one, tea leaves in the upper one. The visitor himself prepared a drink of the desired strength. Tea was drunk from glasses, which were also used for alcohol.

The tea room usually consisted of two rooms. In one there were large tables on which a samovar and teapot were displayed. Tea was diluted to taste and drank with snacks. In another hall, business issues were resolved, meetings were held and documents were drawn up.

Characteristic features of Russian tea drinking

For some reason, Russians are more fond of black tea. "Tea drinking" has become synonymous with intimate conversation, a sign of hospitality and an obligatory final stage of the feast. English stiffness and compulsion, Japanese and Chinese subtlety of the tea ceremony in Russia did not take root. Here, the formalized order of tea drinking was completely swept aside.

The Russian soul requires scope, openness and sincerity. Tea traditions in Russia are inseparable from detailed conversations on any pressing topic. Tea is drunk as many times as you like, more often in winter than in the warm season. Sweets are always attached to it - jam, pastries, honey, sweets.

For guests in many houses there are festive services: table and tea. In Soviet times, such special dishes were an indicator of well-being and status in society. All housewives, in order to somehow join the elite, dreamed of a mother-of-pearl Madonna service.

Festive table

Two stages of the Russian feast always remain unchanged: main courses with alcoholic drinks and tea with desserts. During the table change, the guests, exhausted from a hearty meal, go out to smoke and powder their noses, and tune in to a leisurely tea party and frank conversations. Strong tea promotes digestion and invigorates.

Such a continuation of the feast saves from the consequences of overeating and excessive intoxication. Table setting and the method of brewing tea depend on the hostess. Candies, honey, sugar, jam, lemon slices, pastries or cake, milk / cream in the milk jug are exhibited.

Special "sweet table"

So it is customary to call an economical kind of feast, cut down to tea drinking. It is used for various reasons: the organizers want to quickly celebrate some event without etiquette formalities, there is little time for communication, circumstances do not allow setting a full table, and so on. Often in such cases, they take tea bags and a minimal set of sweets in disposable dishes, or they collect a table together.

at home

Russians drink tea several times a day, at home and at work: as a "third" after the main meal or separately, with or without dessert. Usually, both at home and in the office, everyone has their own favorite cup. Often drink it in front of the TV.

Fans add aromatic herbs or spices to tea leaves. If tea is prepared for the whole family, it is infused in a teapot and diluted with boiling water in cups. Boiling water is added to the teapot 1-2 times as it is empty.

Unexpected guests

Treating with tea is a common sign of hospitality, even if a person did not come to visit, but for some reason. Especially in cold weather, it is a sacred thing to offer a cup of tea to a chilled visitor. There are no set rules here.

If desired, the host can keep the guest company or offer some sweets, but he may not do this. This tradition is also followed in offices, depending on how much time the visitor spends there.

Tea drinking in Russian is very democratic - each house has its own traditions and recipes. Tea is brewed in different ways. All of them are extremely simple. The main feature was and remains "two-teapot" brewing and good heating.

1. The happy owners of the samovar put a large teapot on top of a special nest. As the water warmed up in the samovar, a vessel with tea warmed up. The drink was poured into glasses without diluting, and drank with sweets.
2. If there is no samovar, then a “tea pair” was made from a teapot and a teapot. The tea leaf was poured with boiling water in a teapot and warmed for infusion. For him, they often sewed a beautiful special heating pad - a “woman”. Such tea was served undiluted, with a bite of sweets.
3. The third method is perhaps the simplest, economical and popular in Soviet times: a very strong infusion was made in a teapot, poured a little into cups, and topped up with hot water.

Tea must be given its due - it has gained such popularity that it has completely replaced traditional Russian drinks from everyday life. At the same time, I didn’t even have to invent dishes. Russian sbiten has always been prepared in a samovar, which in composition resembles non-alcoholic mulled wine.

Sbiten: A very thick dark red decoction is prepared from molasses mixed with spices (St. The viscous liquid is diluted with water as needed and sugar is added.

Mors and mead were also popular drinks. With the advent of tea, the samovar was "retrained" for "tea making".

Popular types

Tea gourmets in Russia appeared immediately. Very rare elite varieties of Chinese tea entered the country, including imperial yellow and expensive representatives of black “flower”.

There were several hundred Chinese shops in Moscow, where the choice of green and black was very rich. Muscovites fell in love with green teas "Imperial Lansin" and "Pearl Choice", yellow "Yunfacho with Flowers" and white varieties "Silver Needles". The northern capital preferred the delicate taste of flower varieties.

In big cities, the choice of tea was easier. Residents of rural areas did not understand elite drinks and were not puzzled by varieties and quality. Firstly, not the best and cheapest varieties went on sale, and secondly, due to high prices, the peasants preferred to prepare fees instead of them:

• "Koporsky" from dried herb Ivan-tea;
• "wooden" from leaves and bark of trees (, from oak, ash);
• herbal preparations;
• from leaves and fruits of fruit trees and berry bushes.

Unscrupulous businessmen, ready for any tricks to play on the popularity of the product and profit, took advantage of such a rich assortment of alternative drinks. This is how counterfeit teas appeared.

They had to look like real ones, so home-made collections were processed with dyes, often poisonous, mixed with non-natural additives and passed off as a natural product. The worst kind of such activity was the manipulation of the sleeping tea leaves, which were collected in tea establishments. The government has developed a suppression scheme and a system of punishments for counterfeit dealers.

Thanks to folk ingenuity, many recipes for alternative drinks have been tried. Some of them are so liked that they became popular. So the concept of "herbal tea" entered Russian everyday life.

stereotypes

The traditions of Russian tea drinking have developed their own clichés that influence its assessment. Non-existent forms and facts are attributed to him, but:

• The samovar is not a Russian invention, but has been used for a very long time, first for sbiten, then for tea.
• Saucer - drinking from it is considered vulgar. But who has tried, he knows - it really tastes better. So it was accepted in the merchant, and later the philistine environment.
• A glass with a cup holder is a tea exhibit, a tribute to the times, the echoes of which remain in Russian trains. But still good tea in a glass is great. Especially if you look at the light.
• A woman on a teapot - a toy with wide skirts can be replaced by a funny chicken or a multi-colored rooster with wings outstretched on the teapot. In extreme cases, the master's hat will do. As long as the tea doesn't freeze.
• Brewing - why not, so as not to mess around with endless brewing in the midst of a conversation.

Tea is a versatile drink that saturates, invigorates and soothes at the same time. It is pleasant with him in the company and alone. And even reading about him is good over tea.

photo: depositphotos.com/island, Forewer