Portioned perch and still. Soup from pike perch Alya naturel as it is written in French

The works of Mikhail Bulgakov are sorted into quotes, and you can bet that the very first one that comes to mind will definitely be related to cooking.

“Don’t read Soviet newspapers before dinner”, “Sturgeon of the second freshness”, “The only thing that will bring you back to life is two shots of vodka with spicy and hot snacks”, “The housekeeper made vodka”, “Only undercut Bolsheviks eat cold appetizers and soup landlords...

“Where are you having dinner tonight, Ambrose?

What a question, of course, here, dear Fock! Archibald Archibaldovich whispered to me today that there will be portioned zander and still. Virtuoso stuff!
- You know how to live, Ambrose! - with a sigh, the lean, neglected, with a carbuncle on his neck, Fock answered the ruddy-lipped giant, golden-haired, puffy-cheeked Ambrose the poet.
“I don’t have any special skill,” Ambrose objected, “but an ordinary desire to live like a human.”

(p.392) "The Master and Margarita"

Ingredients:


A couple of bulbs

green onion

Parsley and celery (Ideally need roots, but I had to settle for stems)

Eggs - 5 pcs.

Olive oil

Dry white

Medium fat cream

Cardamom

white pepper

Allspice peas

Black peppercorns

Bay leaf

Salt, sugar.

How to cook:

We clean the pike perch from scales (another pleasant thing to do in the morning))))). We cut the fins. Gutted. We cut off the head and tail, cut along the ridge and get the fillet. We send the head, tail and other spare parts to the pan. Fill with cold water, add half the stems (or roots) of parsley and celery, onion and cook the broth.

Salt, Pepper a little white pepper. Cut across into pieces 5-7 cm wide. Fold skin out. We fix with a bow or thread.

Put the fillet in a saucepan or deep frying pan.

We fill the space between them with onions and spices. Strain the broth ready for this time. Cool down. We interfere with the broth, wine and cream in a ratio of 2: 1: 1. Pour into the fillet, approximately so that it covers the fillet by half or a little more:

Close the lid and put on a small fire for 25-30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the sauce. We cook hard-boiled eggs. We get the yolk. We rub through a sieve. add 100 grams of olive (or sunflower) oil, 100 g of sugar and lemon juice. Beat until smooth. That's basically it.

We are preparing a side dish. We get pike perch. Drizzle with sauce and consume. Preferably with vodka.

P.S. Do not give me rest perch in my freezer. This is a new way of cooking for me.

And as a bonus for those who have a sterlet, like us, in the Volga, they catch:

"Sterlet in pieces, shifted with crayfish tails and fresh caviar"

“...“Eh-ho-ho ... Yes, it was, it was! .. Moscow old-timers remember the famous Griboyedov! What boiled portioned zander! It's cheap, dear Ambrose! And what about sterlet, sterlet in a silver saucepan, sterlet in pieces, arranged with crayfish necks and fresh caviar?

"The Master and Margarita" (2, p.392)

Cut the sterlet into pieces about 2 cm thick. Salt them, pepper them and put them into a mold, alternating with the crayfish tails.

Add a spoonful of oil to the mold, pour in lemon juice and champagne.

Cook the fish under a lid over low heat for 15 minutes.

Serve straight from the tin, garnished with lemon, tomatoes and olives. It is also good to decorate the fish with red caviar.


Mikhail Afanasyevich was a real gourmet. And although in life he often had to be content with only catering potato cutlets, he turned the descriptions of the meals of his literary heroes into real culinary masterpieces.


And this especially applies to the novel "The Master and Margarita". In the course of the story, Bulgakov is very generous with culinary passages. What is the episode with Styopa Likhodeev, who got drunk on the eve, whom Woland skillfully brings back to life!


« ... If Styopa Likhodeev had been told this way: “Styopa! You will be shot if you don't get up this minute!" - Styopa would have answered in a languid, barely audible voice: "Shoot, do with me what you want, but I will not get up."

Not to mention getting up, it seemed to him that he could not open his eyes, because if he only did that, lightning would flash and his head would immediately be blown to pieces. A heavy bell hummed in this head, brown spots with a fiery green rim floated between the eyeballs and closed eyelids, and to top it all, nausea seemed to be connected with the sounds of some annoying gramophone.

Wiggling his toes, Styopa guessed that he was wearing socks, ran a trembling hand along his thigh to determine whether he was wearing trousers or not, and did not determine.
Finally, seeing that he was abandoned and alone, that there was no one to help him, he decided to get up, no matter how inhuman efforts it cost.
Styopa opened his glued eyelids and saw what was reflected in the dressing table in the form of a man with hair sticking out in different directions, with a swollen physiognomy covered with black bristles, with swollen eyes, in a dirty shirt with a collar and tie, in underpants and socks.

This is how he saw himself in the dressing table, and next to the mirror he saw an unknown man dressed in black and wearing a black beret.

“Dear Stepan Bogdanovich,” the visitor spoke, smiling shrewdly, “no pyramidon will help you. Follow the wise old rule of treating like with like. The only thing that will bring you back to life is two glasses of vodka with a spicy and hot snack ...

... Styopa, goggling his eyes, saw that a tray was served on a small table, on which there was sliced ​​white bread, pressed caviar in a vase, pickled porcini mushrooms on a plate, something in a saucepan and, finally, vodka in a voluminous jeweler's decanter.
Styopa was especially struck by the fact that the decanter was fogged up from the cold. However, this was understandable - he was placed in a rinse bowl filled with ice. Covered, in a word, it was clean, skillfully.

... They opened the pan - there were sausages in tomato in it ... ".


We cook sausages, cut each into 3-4 parts.
Finely chop the onion and fry in hot oil until translucent. Add sausages, pour everything with tomato juice and water. Bring to a boil. Add salt, parsley, chopped garlic and spices to taste, leave covered for 5-7 minutes.
Can be served with mashed potatoes.

When Bulgakov wrote his famous novel, he could already afford to go to restaurants and watch the customers. In those days, the MASSOLIT restaurant, formerly "Griboedov", was very popular among the literary environment, only members of the Writers' Union who liked to go to this restaurant to escape from their problems were allowed here, especially since the prices here were quite acceptable.


"Eh-ho-ho... Yes, it was, it was!.. Moscow old-timers remember the famous Griboedov!
"... And the sterlet, the sterlet in a silver saucepan, the sterlet in chunks, laid out with crayfish necks and fresh caviar? And the cocotte eggs with champignon puree in cups? Didn't you like thrush fillets? With truffles? Genoese quail? Ten and a half! Yes, jazz, yes, a polite service! And in July, when the whole family is in the country, and urgent literary business keeps you in the city, on the veranda, in the shade of climbing grapes, in a golden stain on a clean tablecloth, a plate of soup-printanière?
Remember Ambrose? Well, why ask! By your lips I see that you remember. What are your sizhki, perch! And what about great snipes, harriers, snipes, seasonal woodcocks, quails, waders? Narzan hissing in the throat?!
"

Let's try to cook dishes, so masterfully described by Bulgakov ...

« Archibald Archibaldovich whispered to me today that there will be portioned zander and still. Virtuoso thing!»


Cut the celery root and parsley, put in a saucepan, add black peppercorns, bay leaf, pour water and boil.
Put portioned pieces of pike perch into boiling water and boil until tender over low heat. The water should just cover the fish.
In the meantime, grind the boiled yolk with olive oil, lemon juice and a pinch of powdered sugar until smooth.
Arrange the finished pike perch on plates, pour over the prepared sauce and garnish with a lemon.

« ... And what about sterlet, sterlet in a silver saucepan, sterlet in pieces, laid out with crayfish necks and fresh caviar?»


Cut the sterlet into pieces about 2 cm thick. Salt them, pepper them and put them into a mold, alternating with the crayfish tails.
Add a spoonful of oil to the mold, pour in lemon juice and champagne.
Cook the fish under a lid over low heat for 15 minutes.
Serve straight from the tin, garnished with lemon, tomatoes and olives. It is also good to decorate the fish with red caviar.

« ...And the egg cocottes with champignon puree in cups?»


Finely chopped mushrooms fry in butter with onions until tender. Add a little flour, salt and ground pepper, mix thoroughly and add a few tablespoons of heavy cream to make it a little thicker than sour cream.
Add grated cheese and ground crackers (1:1), mix.
Pour the puree into a buttered cocotte maker, drop the egg on top and bake in the oven until the egg is cooked.

Karsky - this is understandable, barbecue in Karsky, bison - bison, but what are mysterious flasks?


Boil 3 liters of broth from beef bones.
In half of the broth, boil the beef tripe for 3 hours; in the second half, boil the roots to taste.
Remove the tripe, cut, sprinkle with flour, fry in butter.
Put the tripe and roots in a pot, pour in the broth and simmer in the oven for half an hour.

Bulgakov could not ignore those disgusting buffets, which he hated with all his heart.


« ... I, - the barman spoke bitterly, - I am the head of the buffet of the Variety Theater ...

The artist held out his hand, on the fingers of which sparkled stones, as if blocking the barman's mouth, and spoke with great fervor:

- No no no! Not another word! No way and never! I won't take anything in your buffet! I, most respected, passed by your counter yesterday and still cannot forget either sturgeon or cheese.
My precious! Bryndza does not come in green color, someone deceived you. She's supposed to be white.

Yes, what about tea? After all, this is garbage! I saw with my own eyes how some untidy girl was pouring raw water from a bucket into your huge samovar, and meanwhile the tea continued to be poured. No, my dear, that's impossible!

- I'm sorry, - Andrei Fokich, stunned by this sudden attack, spoke up, - I'm not on this business, and the sturgeon has nothing to do with it.
- Sturgeon sent the second freshness - said the barman.
- My dear, this is nonsense!
- The second freshness - that's nonsense! There is only one freshness - the first, it is also the last. And if the sturgeon is of the second freshness, then this means that it is rotten!

“I'm sorry,” the barman began again, not knowing how to get rid of the artist who was picking on him.
"I can't forgive you," he said firmly...

Well, a little about simple homemade food...

« And in July, when the whole family is at the dacha, and urgent literary business keeps you in the city, - on the veranda, in the shade of climbing grapes, in a golden stain on a clean tablecloth, a plate of soup-prentanière?»


Boil beef broth. Take out and cut the meat.
Boil grated and chopped carrots, parsley root, celery root and turnips in the broth.
Separately from each other in salted water, boil green beans, beans and peas, asparagus and cauliflower.
Cut asparagus and cauliflower into pieces.
Put vegetables in a heated tureen, then meat, pour broth strained several times.

Enjoy your meal!

Our readers have a unique opportunity to receive other . You can be sure - it will be very tasty.


"Where are you having dinner tonight, Ambrose?"
- What a question, of course, here, dear Foka! Archibald Archibaldovich whispered to me today that there will be portioned zander and still. Virtuoso stuff!
“You know how to live, Ambrose!” - with a sigh, the lean, neglected, with a carbuncle on his neck Fok answered the ruddy-lipped giant, golden-haired, puffy-cheeked Ambrose the poet.
“I don’t have any special skill,” Ambrose objected, “but an ordinary desire to live like a human being. You mean to say, Fock, that you can meet zanders in the Colosseum. But in the Colosseum, a portion of perch costs thirteen rubles and fifteen kopecks, while with us it costs five fifty! Besides, in the "Coliseum" pike perches are third-day, and, besides, you still have no guarantee that you will not get a bunch of grapes in the face in the "Coliseum" from the first young man who bursts in from the theater passage. No, I am categorically against the "Colosseum," the deli Ambrose thundered through the whole boulevard. - Do not persuade me, Foka!
"I'm not trying to persuade you, Ambrose," Foka squeaked. - You can have dinner at home.
“Humble servant,” Ambrose trumpeted, “I can imagine your wife trying to build portioned zanders in a saucepan in the common kitchen at home!” Gi-gi-gi! .. Aurevuar, Foca! - and, singing, Ambrose rushed to the veranda under the awning.

I've been wondering for a long time what kind of perch are so deliciously mentioned in Mikhail Bulgakov's immortal work "The Master and Margarita". Having rummaged through the Internet, I found many recipes that can claim the title of "the one" - according to which they cooked in the Griboyedov restaurant. Everywhere, pike perch is cut into portions, boiled in its own juice with spices and, when served, poured over with a specially prepared sauce.

Cooking zander.
Everything is simple here. Pour water into a deep frying pan, add salt, put allspice and black peppercorns, cardamom, bay leaf and lay out the pieces of fish. Cook over low heat until cooked, but do not overcook - the fish should remain dense.

We're preparing the sauce.
We make the sauce sweet and sour. Almost all recipes require the following ingredients: 150 grams of olive oil, 100 grams of powdered sugar, 5 yolks, lemon. The yolks are rubbed on a grater, then mixed with butter. Then powdered sugar is added and everything is whipped with a mixer. Instead of olive oil, I used vegetable oil, and instead of powdered sugar, I used fragrant mountain honey from herbs. The honey turned out to be very sweet, so I had to add more lemon to equalize the sweet and sour balance.

Pike perch turned out very tasty and incredibly satisfying. Be sure to try this recipe. And be careful if you have a shared kitchen in a communal apartment


The works of Mikhail Bulgakov are sorted into quotes, and you can bet that the very first one that comes to mind will definitely be related to cooking.

“Don’t read Soviet newspapers before dinner”, “Sturgeon of the second freshness”, “The only thing that will bring you back to life is two shots of vodka with spicy and hot snacks”, “The housekeeper made vodka”, “Only undercut Bolsheviks eat cold appetizers and soup landlords...

“Where are you having dinner tonight, Ambrose?

What a question, of course, here, dear Fock! Archibald Archibaldovich whispered to me today that there will be portioned zander and still. Virtuoso stuff!
- You know how to live, Ambrose! - with a sigh, the lean, neglected, with a carbuncle on his neck, Fock answered the ruddy-lipped giant, golden-haired, puffy-cheeked Ambrose the poet.
“I don’t have any special skill,” Ambrose objected, “but an ordinary desire to live like a human.”

(p.392) "The Master and Margarita"

Ingredients:


A couple of bulbs

green onion

Parsley and celery (Ideally need roots, but I had to settle for stems)

Eggs - 5 pcs.

Olive oil

Dry white

Medium fat cream

Cardamom

white pepper

Allspice peas

Black peppercorns

Bay leaf

Salt, sugar.

How to cook:

We clean the pike perch from scales (another pleasant thing to do in the morning))))). We cut the fins. Gutted. We cut off the head and tail, cut along the ridge and get the fillet. We send the head, tail and other spare parts to the pan. Fill with cold water, add half the stems (or roots) of parsley and celery, onion and cook the broth.

Salt, Pepper a little white pepper. Cut across into pieces 5-7 cm wide. Fold skin out. We fix with a bow or thread.

Put the fillet in a saucepan or deep frying pan.

We fill the space between them with onions and spices. Strain the broth ready for this time. Cool down. We interfere with the broth, wine and cream in a ratio of 2: 1: 1. Pour into the fillet, approximately so that it covers the fillet by half or a little more:

Close the lid and put on a small fire for 25-30 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the sauce. We cook hard-boiled eggs. We get the yolk. We rub through a sieve. add 100 grams of olive (or sunflower) oil, 100 g of sugar and lemon juice. Beat until smooth. That's basically it.

We are preparing a side dish. We get pike perch. Drizzle with sauce and consume. Preferably with vodka.

P.S. Do not give me rest perch in my freezer. This is a new way of cooking for me.

And as a bonus for those who have a sterlet, like us, in the Volga, they catch:

"Sterlet in pieces, shifted with crayfish tails and fresh caviar"

“...“Eh-ho-ho ... Yes, it was, it was! .. Moscow old-timers remember the famous Griboyedov! What boiled portioned zander! It's cheap, dear Ambrose! And what about sterlet, sterlet in a silver saucepan, sterlet in pieces, arranged with crayfish necks and fresh caviar?

"The Master and Margarita" (2, p.392)

Cut the sterlet into pieces about 2 cm thick. Salt them, pepper them and put them into a mold, alternating with the crayfish tails.

Add a spoonful of oil to the mold, pour in lemon juice and champagne.

Cook the fish under a lid over low heat for 15 minutes.

Serve straight from the tin, garnished with lemon, tomatoes and olives. It is also good to decorate the fish with red caviar.

What manicure this season will be the most relevant? What are the latest innovations in nail care? Understanding the latest trends.

Our expert is Irina Savchenko, ORLY training manager in Moscow.

sparks on nails

Fashionable manicure of the new season is certainly not boring. This fall, literally everything is allowed: from discreet nude shades to glitter polishes. Moreover, the latter can be completely unimaginable shape and size. For several seasons in a row, the “a la naturel” manicure has been at the height of fashion. And now it has also become useful for the health of nails. The fact is that recently a number of drugs have appeared that perform two functions at once. On the one hand, they take care of the nail plate. And on the other hand, they give the nails a “powdery” shade that is relevant in the autumn season. Their task is to emphasize the natural beauty, hide minor flaws, improve the condition of the nails and create an actual porcelain effect. Another notable fall trend is nails in all shades of red. There are a lot of options here, from classic scarlet to rich wine. The main thing is to choose a color that will be in harmony with the color of the skin, and with the shape of the nails, and, importantly, with your mood. Then manicure "from the cover" is guaranteed to you. Finally, one of the undeniable trends of autumn has become a sparkling manicure. All kinds of glitter varnishes are a great idea not only for a holiday, but also for every day. Moreover, sparkles can be used both separately and in combination with a varnish of a bright shade.

french classic

Their favorites this season appeared in the design of nails. At the peak of popularity - endless variations of the jacket beloved by many fashionistas. This type of manicure was invented 40 years ago by Jeff Pink, a living legend of the nail industry and the founder of the ORLY corporation. This fall, Jeff offers to bet on a fantasy jacket. Experiment with the color combination, the shape of the “smile” line, the length of the free edge. The main rule is not to be afraid. Surely you can create your own, exclusive design. Be sure to try to master the so-called moon manicure, when the zone of the hole is colored in contrast. The idea of ​​creating this unusual design belongs to the stylists of the Christian Dior fashion house. He also had a new interpretation: they paint over both the hole and the free edge with the same color. It turns out very unusual and beautiful. And if you want to create an even more extravagant design, then leave the hole completely unpainted.

watercolor stains

Autumn is traditionally generous with new items. So, quite recently a new type of coating has appeared - tint. This is a translucent varnish that is applied over a regular color coating. With it, it is easy to perform a nail design in watercolor technique. Tints are designed to create light, airy and translucent color transitions. It is worth paying attention to another unusual varnish - the elastic color coating Epix. Thanks to a special formula, it stays on nails for at least eight days and does not fade. And it is also able to self-level during the drying process, which makes it especially convenient for home manicures. This coating is applied and erased like a regular varnish, without the use of additional devices. Another interesting novelty is the world's first BB cream for nails. It simultaneously hides minor imperfections of the nail plate and qualitatively improves its condition. Nails with it immediately look porcelain, and most importantly - every day they become stronger.