Winter shelter: how to build it correctly. Winter shelter: how to build it right How to make a shelter

Surviving in the forest is not so easy, unless, of course, you have a long experience of survival. Of course, in our age high technology it is difficult to get lost in the forest with different GPS technologies, but what if you have an accident and the nearest settlement is not closer than 100 km? Or have you crashed somewhere in the taiga and your phone is broken? In this situation, our advice on survival in the forest will help you. If you have carefully read our site, you know that we have already raised many questions, so we will simply refer to them here.

The article will be divided into subparagraphs, or rather, the sequence of actions that you will need to take. So, let's begin.

Plan

After you find yourself in the forest and understand that you will not be able to get out quickly, then it's time to think about shelter. Experienced preppers put this item first, because shelter solves a lot of problems. Making it yourself is easy in the most ordinary forest.

So, if you are in the forest in winter, then you should first follow simple rules. We have already written detailed articles on this topic:

Emergency overnight stay in the winter forest

By studying these instructions now, you will be able to hold out much longer when you are in this situation.

In these articles, everything is chewed up to the smallest action. Now you know how to build a shelter in the forest at any time of the year. Next, you should think about how to keep warm.

Types of fires - simple and complex ways of ignition

Of course, alcohol and others traditional methods this is good way for warming, but not in the forest, in which it is not clear how long you will stay. Therefore, you need to learn how to make a fire, with almost all available methods. But first, a little theory about the rules and what fires are.

After studying this material, you will understand how to properly make a fire and what is needed for this.

Food extraction

Shelter and a fire are certainly good, but everyone wants to eat and always. Now we need to know where to get food in the forest and how to determine whether it is fresh or not. I have already published articles on this topic:

You won’t be full of simple berries, so you often have to hunt. In this situation, you should read the article - Butchering an elk, wild boar, hare, because all of a sudden you can catch someone.

After you have solved the problem with food, you may want to make homemade dishes with your own hands.

Homemade dishes in the forest

Making dishes is the second thing, because with a great desire to eat, hands can become a tool for eating food. But if you are stuck in the forest thoroughly and you have time, you can make yourself some dishes. In my article - how to make dishes in the forest with your own hands, you will learn how to make simple spoons and bowls.

Mining accessories

Above, I wrote that it is possible and necessary to get meat in the forest. Of course, it’s smart to do this with a weapon, but most likely you won’t have it. Therefore, you will have to get meat with your own hands. This will help us a lot trap trapswhich we will have to learn how to do, because catching even a hare with bare hands is not easy. It will also be useful for you to read about hunting loop traps, which will also help to catch the beast.

If you know how it's all done, even in the simplest form, then for sure, your chances of getting food will be much higher.

Extraction and purification of water

Water is simply necessary in the forest, otherwise it will be very difficult, since getting water in the forest is not as difficult as, for example, in the desert. You can read how to find water in the forest in my article - how to find, extract and purify water while in the forest. Additionally, I advise you to familiarize yourself with the material - filtration, disinfection and storage of water.

Exit from the forest - orientation in the forest.

So, this is the final point in which you will learn how to get out of the forest. At the time of the exit, you should already be able to make a fire, get food and water.

The first step is to stop and take no further action. Sit on a stump and think about the landmarks (railroad, lake, river) that you might have noticed before. Remember the direction of movement, for example relative to the sun or moon. Further, it is worth listening, because the noise of the tractor can be heard for 3 kilometers, the railway for 10 km, and the barking of a dog for 2-3 km.

If everything is in vain, then just go along the stream to the river, and the river should lead you to people. If there is a big tree and there is a desire to climb on it, then look what is around. It is also worth paying attention to the road, if you see that there is a path, then feel free to follow it. The main thing is to determine in which direction you need to move. If you keep bumping into branches, then most likely this is an animal path. If there is a fork in the road, then it is better to go along the one that is more trodden.

Now about orientation. If you know approximately where to move (for example, you looked at it before entering the forest exemplary position relatively settlements), you can try:

It is worth remembering that many “wanderers” walk in circles, because a person is so arranged that often the right foot takes a step wider than the left and, accordingly, a circle turns out over time, so it’s worth doing serifs and create landmarks.

Now let's talk about animals. You can meet animals in the forest, but they are more likely to find out about you earlier and just leave. The only thing they can attack you if:

they are injured;
frightened by your appearance;
protect their cubs.

In this situation, it is worth running away or trying to frighten away the animal with fire. You can knock with a stick on a tree. In any situation, of course, you should avoid direct contact with animals, because they can be infected.

This concludes my article. I tried to put in it everything that I considered necessary and that I picked up on other resources dedicated to survival. If you have any questions - you can write in the comments.

Getting lost in the forest is easy, even if you have been there many times. If you have no idea how to go back, and the sun has long passed over the zenith, then the surest thing is to set up camp. For the most protected and safe night in the forest, build a temporary shelter, it will make you invisible to forest dwellers, protected from rain and wind.

If you break such a shelter in an open area, equipping it with signal signs, then from the air it will be much easier for rescuers to notice him than a lonely standing person.

Location selection:

When choosing a place for your shelter, try to avoid river banks, low-lying banks near water, dry river beds, and other places where your shelter is likely to flood when the water level rises due to rain. Any lowland is a place of accumulation of cold air currents, camping in such a place is a bad idea.
In order to avoid trouble during a thunderstorm, you should also avoid high places, such as the tops of mountains and hills. On them, in addition, your shelter will be exposed to strong winds.
Don't camp next to animal trails - you'll get in each other's way. Try not to litter around the camp, this can also create a lot of problems with the locals. Store your things in a place inaccessible to animals, for example, by hanging them on a tree. Stay away from anthills and rotten or hollow tree trunks that can fall in windy conditions.
Try to choose a place so that you have access to both water and firewood.

The choice of shelter also depends on the nature of the terrain:

In the tundra and taiga, choose the most dry places away from swamps, preferably on rocky or sandy elevated soil.
In the steppe, your task is to protect yourself from the wind, so choose places behind a hillock. If mosquitoes pester and stand hot weather, then you can choose an elevated place blown by the wind.
In deserts and mountains, day and night temperatures vary greatly, so you need to provide protection from both heat and cold.

To save time and effort, you can use the features of the area as an aid in organizing shelter, for example, the trunk of a broken tree. Just be sure to check that the tree does not fall on you completely.

Here are some visual ways to make a very simple canopy:

Unilateral:

Bilateral:

Inclined- its advantage is that such a canopy retains heat better and protects from the wind, while there is no need to build a third wall:

If you have an awning available or, then you can build a more reliable shelter. To maximize the windproof and heat-preserving qualities of the shelter, you can combine plant material and awning.

More options for installing shelter using an awning:

You managed to make a roof over your head, but on what to sleep?

In no case do not lie down on the bare ground! You risk not only freezing, but also getting serious illness due to hypothermia.

Surely in the radius of your parking lot there is dry grass or moss, cattail stalks or sedges - these soft materials will serve as both a mattress and a blanket. For maximum distance from the cold soil, thin elastic branches can be applied under the soft layer. The more of them, the softer it will sleep.

Most importantly, remember that such a shelter is a way to save your life in extreme situations, breaking off branches and cutting bushes for fun is not a noble cause!

Take care of the forest, and one day it will help you out!

Imagine the situation you are in ski trip lagged behind their group, lost. You do not have a tent, but only sleeping bag and matches. Evening, blizzard. You need to do something to keep warm.

Or you deliberately went into the forest without taking a tent with you (I decided to save weight).

What do you need to know?

How to build a snow shelter (snow caves, igloos)
How to set up your bivouac
How to make a long burning fire
How to make a shelter from what is (booth, canopy, etc.)

So, the tourist got lost, wandered for a long time in search of a trail and decided to spend the night. How to arrange an overnight stay?

Overnight campfire

1.Choosing a place to sleep

The bivouac must be protected from the wind (the slightest wind increases the frost)
It is best to arrange an overnight stay in dense forest or a small hollow.
Avoid glades, forest edges, hills (there is a strong wind)
If the snow is shallow, then dig a place for a fire to the ground; if it is deep, make a fire on a platform of damp logs, or use special types bonfires (Evenki see below)
Prepare more firewood (so as not to run and search at night) or, if you have an ax, fill up sushi(dry tree on the vine) thicker

How to identify a dry tree (dry land)

knock on it with an ax, the tree makes a characteristic ringing noise
the bark of such trees often peels off in pieces, wood is visible
Pay attention to the top she is "naked"
Do not use trees lying on the ground (snow), they, their wood is wet
Do not use sushi without a top, as a rule such sushi is unsuitable

Harvesting firewood (how to fill up dry land)

From the side where you will bring down the sushi, make a cut
On the opposite side, about 15 cm above the first, a second cut or cut is made

When the tree leans, rest against it with a stick (horn) and start swinging
The tree must fall

Option for a large group and for singles (BALAGAN)

You can spend the night well in the forest, making a kind of "booth" a suitable place for the camp, the snow is raked to the ground. A snow rampart is poured around the cleared place in a semicircle, 2 long poles are prepared, which are stuck into the snow rampart; their tops are shifted crosswise and tied with twine.

Then, skis are stuck along the entire shaft, the ends of which rest on the cross of connected poles. After that, the whole structure is covered with blankets, and a kind of "wigwam" is obtained, open in front. Inside, the entire floor is covered with a thick layer of needles; if there are no needles, then a flooring is made of poles, which are stuck at the bottom of the snow shaft at some distance from the ground. Pine needles or flooring are covered with two blankets - and the "booth" is ready. Backpacks are brought inside and placed near the snow bank. In front of the "booth" on a piece of land cleared of snow, a long taiga bonfire is made of thick trunks of cedar, fir, resinous spruce, dead wood, etc. When a fire is burning, inside such a room, even in severe frosts, it is very warm. "Balagan" of the sizes indicated in the figure can accommodate 8 people. Of these, 6-7 people. sleep, covered with a blanket, 1-2 people. they are on duty, putting firewood on the fire. Settle down for the night in the "booth" should be feet to the fire. This method is good for large groups same for one person

"Balagan" (or rather, a barrier) can be made from sticks and covered with needles. In front of the barrier, a “nodya” is bred (if there are 2-3 people in the group), or a large fire of the taiga type.

When building "booths" should take into account the direction of the wind. It is forbidden, for example, to cut wood for a fire on the windward side of the bivouac, thus destroying the protection from the wind. For adjustment thermal regime in the "booth" of a simplified design, one side wall should be made of a blanket. By throwing the blanket back to a larger or smaller angle, you can use the maximum amount of heat from the fire.

The floor of the booth should be covered with spruce branches, if spruce branches are not available, make a flooring of logs. In order not to stick your feet into the fire, a damp log is placed near the entrance (the supporting log is placed at a distance of 1-1.5 meters from the fire) and strengthened with stakes or stones so that it does not roll down

Fire bed (method controversial)

industrialists Far East apply the following method of lodging for the night in the taiga in winter. Having chosen a place protected from the wind, they rake the snow to the ground, clear a small area, build a large fire from thick resinous or dry trunks and warm the ground for 2 hours (during this time, food is cooked, people have dinner). Then the ashes are leveled, and the industrialists, having spread the skin, settle down in this place for the night, covered with a blanket. Almost all night, the warmth of the slowly cooling earth warms the sleeping people. (I used this method, but only in the fall). He works in the fall, I don’t know about the winter

canopy reflector

First option:

stick sticks in a snowdrift and heat snow on them. The snow shaft will gradually begin to thaw and will look like a visor. It will be warm between the fire and this makeshift shed.

Second option:

Stick sticks into the snow at an angle of 50 or 60 degrees, hang a piece of polyethylene (raincoat, awning) or any other fabric on the sticks. Such a screen will reflect heat from the fire and the person will be warm both in front and behind

The disadvantage of the canopy is that you can’t fully relax near it, but you can in the booth.

However, it should be noted that these methods of lodging for the night are applicable only in wooded areas!!!

Snow caves, pits, snow huts

In a treeless area, having a sleeping bag, you can spend the night in a snow hole dug in a snow puff or in a place where there is a deep layer of more or less compacted snow. The opening of the pit is protected with snow bricks, a piece of tarpaulin, etc.. Such a snow hole can be dug for 1-2 people. For a group with a large number of participants, it is possible to dig out, if the density of the snow allows, a recess like a wolf pit, which is covered on top with skis and a piece of tarpaulin.

You can successfully spend the night in the mountains in snow cave, dug - in a snowdrift with dense snow or in slope of hard firn. The ceiling in the cave is made dome-shaped, then when the stove is ignited and the snow thaws, no water drips from the ceiling. If the depth of the snowdrift allows, it is advisable to make the entrance tunnel longer and a hole in the floor of the latter that communicates with the cave. With this design of the entrance, warm air accumulates in the cave, heated by the breath of people.

It is very warm to sleep in the snow cave, having a stove and sleeping bags. Such caves are often used by climbers during difficult ascents. With great success, snow caves were used for lodging and lodging during Wegener's polar expedition in Greenland.

General rules for building snow shelters and choosing a site for construction

Do not dig a snow cave near a steep slope (snowy) an avalanche may come down
Do not make shelter at the base of loose rocks, overhanging snow cornices
You can not set up a bivouac near dry and rotten trees (the wind can knock them down)
In a snow shelter, the warmer the higher the temperature outside (at zero, the shelter can “leak”) Protect the ceiling inside with polyethylene
The smaller the volume inside the cave, the warmer it is (it is problematic to heat a large volume with breath)
It is better to build a snow hole, a lair alone, while taking off your outer clothing

open shelter

1.Snow trench

Such a shelter is dug out of snow at least 1.5 meters deep. As a shovel, you can use skis, a bowl, a piece of plywood.

A very good shelter is obtained in ravines and hollows. In fact, it is just a slit-like pit one and a half or 2 meters deep and covered with cloth or polyethylene on top. The roof is made from tree trunks and branches or skis and sticks (if you are in a treeless zone). The roof can be sprinkled with snow on top (additional thermal insulation).

In the taiga, you can build a similar cave near the trunk of a fluffy spruce, cedar. Paws if they are a kind of roof. Clear the place of snow near the trunk in a circle. In such an impromptu hut, you can even build a small fire

2.Snow pit

This structure is very reminiscent of a hole. As a rule, it consists of a pit tunnel and the hole itself. The minimum thickness of the ceiling should be 20-30 cm. Otherwise, it may collapse. If the snow is loose, then a snow pit is almost impossible to build.

Closed shelters

1.Snow Cave

Snow cave digs on the slope. Remove excess clothing so that it does not get wet, fasten all cuffs, buttons, locks.

Classic snow cave

Algorithm for building a cave

First a hole is made
Breaking through a narrow tunnel
The end of the tunnel is expanded up to the size you need

Non-classical snow cave type 1

Non-classical snow cave type 2

2. Snow lair

The snow lair digs near windbreaks and blockages in the taiga, there are very large accumulations of snow. A snow lair is being dug, just like a cave.

Single snow hole

In cases of extreme necessity, the night can also be waited out in a single hole of small thickness. It is necessary to dig a hole in such a way that the dead end side is raised. In such a nome it will be less comfortable than in an ordinary hole, but warmer than on the street. The point is that the person who spends the night in it should be above the entrance level and be in air cushion, the bottom is lined with a layer of spruce branches or sticks.

If your feet are frostbitten or your shoes are lost, then you can spend the night in such a hole with your feet inside and cover your head with polyethylene or wrap it in a cloth.

solitary burrow

snow hut

50 cm long and 50-90 cm long. These snow "bricks" must be strong enough to support their own weight during carrying and laying on edge.

It is recommended to build a hut on a flat snowdrift with a depth of at least 1 m. With the help of 2 ski poles tied to the ends of the twine, a circle is drawn in the snow. The diameter of the circle depends on the number of inhabitants of the future hut and is established in each specific case by simple calculations. The first block is laid on edge, slightly trimming its inner edge with a knife so that the block leans inward (if a large snow hut is being built, the angle of inclination should be small, for a small hut a rather significant slope is required).

To the first block, close to one another, the rest of the blocks are laid along the line of the circle. Once the first tier has been laid, the second can be started in several ways.

The simplest of them is that from the upper edge of one of the blocks of the first tier, a cut is made diagonally to the lower edge of the same. a block or a second or third block of snow (fig. building a hut a1)

The first block of the second tier is placed in the resulting recess so that its end is adjacent to the block of the lower tier. Then, close to the first block of the second tier, the second block of the same tier is laid, etc., continuing the construction, as it were, in a spiral. The blocks of each subsequent tier should be tilted inward at a large angle, i.e., a more or less regular dome should be obtained. When the dome is ready, a tunnel is dug through the snowdrift leading to the hut and ending with a kind of hatch in the floor of the latter. With this design of the entrance, the warm air accumulating in the hut (people's breath, primus) does not allow cold air to enter the hut from the tunnel hatch (Fig. hut construction-e).

Drawing "building a hut"

I think that building a hut in the middle lane is a very laborious business.

If a snow hut is built by 4 people, then usually one cuts the blocks, the 2nd carries and serves them, the 3rd builds the hut from the inside, and the 4th follows the builder from the outside and fills the gaps between the blocks with snow.

After the construction of the hut, it is recommended to dilute the stove inside, heat the air to + 20-21 ° and, having made a hole in the dome, freeze the hut for several minutes. After such an operation, the walls of the hut are covered inside with a shiny crust of ice, as a result of which, in case of accidental contact with the walls, snow does not fall on the floor of the hut. The hole in the dome is covered with snow (leaving only a small hole for ventilation).

Williamur Stefanson and his two comrades built their first hut within 3 hours. After some training on the construction of a snow hut for 3-4 people. (hut diameter 3 m, height 2 m) took 45 minutes.

In the snow hut, you can sleep in a sleeping bag without waking up from the cold at very low outside temperatures. If you light a primus stove or a fat lamp inside the "needle", then it becomes quite warm here, and you can sleep covered only with a blanket. Such a hut is indispensable when setting up a long bivouac (especially in treeless areas and in the mountains). If it is planned to build a snow hut at each bivouac on a winter trip, then the group should practice building it long before the trip.

You can make a snow hut of a simple design, but it will be colder than an igloo. Snow "bricks" for this hut are prepared in the same way as for the "igloo"; then a structure is formed from them square shape, which is covered on top with a piece of tarpaulin or blankets (see building a hut). You can also put skis on top and pile snow bricks on them. All cracks between the blocks are covered with snow. It is warmer to sleep in such a hut than in a tent.

When sleeping in the snow, in all cases it is very important to thoroughly dry the equipment (socks, ski suit, boots) before going to bed. At night, shoes should be removed and hidden in a sleeping bag, warm (fur) sleeping socks should be put on your feet, which each member of the group should have on a long-distance ski trip in winter.

If you have to spend the night without sleeping bags and you can’t make a fire due to lack of fuel, you need to build a snow hut or dig a snow hole, cave, etc., take off your frozen boots, put on dry woolen socks or fur socks and put your feet in a backpack. You can't sleep in this position.

To set up a winter bivouac, you should have a snow shovel

Bonfires of long burning (winter bonfires, bonfires for overnight stays)

I have previously written an article about who is interested to see.

Building a fire requires great skill and skill; this is a kind of skill that needs to be learned so that even in winter it can be bred without problems.

In winter, before making a fire, they rake the snow to the ground with a shovel or skis, otherwise the fire will sink deeper into the snow, eventually forming a deep snow pit. Or they make a fire on the basis of logs.

Taiga bonfire(rice. bonfires-d) consists of solid or cut into two parts of woods 2.5-3 m long (cedar, resinous spruce, dead wood, etc.). Firewood is laid either along (a long fire) ‘or in the wrong well. The fire gives a large hot flame and a lot of coals; it is used for cooking food, drying clothes, for sleeping a large group in summer and winter by the fire. The taiga bonfire is a long-acting bonfire.

"American fireplace". This type of bonfire is a very long lasting bonfire. Thick short logs with chopped knots and small branches are stacked as shown in ( rice. Bonfires - e.) The fire is kindled below, at the base of the "hill". Burning, the lower log crumbles gradually into coals, the next log slips in its place, etc. The “American bonfire” is used by Canadian trappers when they spend the night by the fire in summer and winter. Cooking food on such a fire is inconvenient. Only 1-2 people can spend the night at such a fire.

Nodia (fig. fires- and ) - a fire of very long action (the Finnish fire rakotum belongs to the same type). For a node, it is necessary to find a suitable fuel, otherwise it will burn very badly. The best fuel for it is dry spruce or pine, resinous spruce, cedar, in the Ussuri region - elm. Fir, which an inexperienced tourist can mix with spruce, is not suitable for nodia. Spruce should be cut into logs 2.5 - 3 m long, 2. of them are stacked on top of each other and fixed with pegs, and the third, which serves as a regulator, is applied on the side. The node is kindled by placing kindling between the logs of the node regulator, or they cut down along the entire length of both logs of the trough, which form, when the logs are laid on top of each other, a semblance of a tunnel. Here! birch bark, dry moss, incendiary sticks (see below) are placed along the entire length of the gutter and a fire is lit.

Nodia gradually flares up and burns evenly for several hours, giving great heat. If it is necessary to weaken the heat, then the log of the regulator moves back a little. Nodia is used by taiga hunters of Karelia for the night, Kola Peninsula, Siberia, etc. Near the node, you can spend the night well for 2-3 people by building a reflective barrier from branches or skis and an awning, so that sleeping people are between the barrier and the node

A node can be folded from 3-4 logs. In this case, it should be kindled with a fire built at the base of the log wall of the node.

Survival in winter without a tent

From ancient times, the most important skill was the construction of a dwelling. The dwelling saved people from cold, heat, wild animals. Even now the tent is compulsory subject on a hike. But if you are in extreme situation, then the shelter will have to be found and equipped by yourself. In this article, we will look at how to arrange a temporary shelter in the forest.

Shelter classification

Shelters can be conditionally divided into the following types:

1) According to the method of construction. Open (canopy, flooring) and closed (dugout, wigwam, hut).

2) By spaciousness. Shelter can be designed for 1 person or for a group.

3) By purpose. Shelter can protect from cold, rain, snow, animals, insects.

4) By the time of use. Shelter can be temporary, used for spending the night, halt, shelter from bad weather. Capital shelters can serve for extended stays.

5) According to the cost of forces. They are divided into prefabricated (as a rule, temporary shelters) and labor-intensive (capital, for a long time).

6) According to the materials used. To build a shelter, you can use a variety of various materials:
– Fabric shelters (tent, canopy)
– Frame-fabric (wigwams, plagues)
- Frame-deciduous. In the absence of fabric, branches, grasses, and ferns are used to cover the shelter.
- Earthy. Such shelters are dug in the ground.
- Snow. Caves are dug in snowdrifts, needles are erected from snow blocks.
— Stone.

7) By origin. Can be natural (caves) and man-made.

Summer forest shelters

The shelter consists of three main elements: the floor, the walls and the roof. Depending on the surrounding conditions, some of these elements can be discarded. Consider the main types of forest shelters in the summer.

A canopy is the simplest type of shelter. It is built quite quickly, but the functionality is very limited. A canopy can help shelter from precipitation and nothing more.
To build a canopy, you will need polyethylene or a piece of cloth. Find two side by side standing tree and attach a ceiling pole to them, or pull a rope. Throw polyethylene on top and press down the ends with stones.
If there are no trees, then several poles will fit for the construction. Drive 2 poles at an angle to form a triangle. It will serve as the entrance. On top of the formed fork, lay the 3rd pole with one end, lay it on the ground with the other end. Throw a film or cloth over this pole and press down with stones.

wigwam

It is a frame building. Able to protect from rain, wind, help keep warm. If you are going to make a fire, then take care of the hole for the hood.
For the construction you will need poles. On the ground they are lined up in a circle, and from above they are connected into a bundle. The resulting structure is covered with a film or cloth. If they are not at hand, then tree bark can be used as a covering material. They begin to lay it from below and fasten it with willow twigs.
The frame can be built around a tree trunk. But in this case, you should not kindle a fire inside.

Adyghe house

To build this type of shelter, you will need flexible branches or shrubs. Flexible branches must be dug into the ground in two parallel rows, and the tops fastened together. You should get arches. Fasten the branches horizontally to the arches. On the resulting crate put spruce branches.
If the area on which you want to build an Adyghe house is overgrown with shrubs, then instead of branches, you can use nearby bushes. To do this, tie their tops and you uproot everything in between.

Winter forest shelters

In winter, shelter can be dug directly into the snow. You will need a snowdrift, if it is not there, then you need to shovel the snow into a pile.

Trench

In deep snow, it is very convenient to dig a trench as a shelter. If you don't have tools, you can trample underfoot. The width of the trench should be at least 1 meter, the length - depending on the covering material. Pull out a trench, put the rafters on top, skis, branches are suitable for this. From above, cover everything with a film, cloth, and throw snow 20 cm thick.

Cave in the snow

On slopes with a very thick snow cover, it is most convenient to dig snow caves. Be sure to make sure that the area has a minimal chance of avalanches.
For construction, kick a hole in the snow with your feet and start digging a tunnel. Dig the end of the tunnel slightly at an angle to the top and expand it to the desired size. This will help warm air to linger inside.

Den

Another good hiding place in snowy forest is a lair. You can build it in deep snow among windbreak and roots. Make sure the trees don't move and start building the shelter. A lair is being built by analogy with a cave.

Snow dugout

Building a snow dugout is very similar to building a snow trench. For a snowy dugout, dense snow is needed. With the help of a hacksaw or other tools, snow slabs are cut out, which are laid on top of the trench.

From the primitive era until now, of all sciences, the ability to survive in difficult conditions is sometimes the most important. The salvation of a person from adverse influences, primarily from cold and getting wet, is a dwelling. Camping - tent. But what if this item does not appear? How to find shelter in a forest, an open field? How to make a winter shelter? There are answers to these questions.

Classification of shelter types

Types of shelters are classified purely conditionally:

According to the method of protection from climatic influences, animals structures are:

closed (lair, wigwam, chum, igloo, dugout, hut);
open (canopies, hammocks on trees, decking in swamps).

By capacity:

individual;
group.

By appointment: winter shelter saves a person from freezing, summer shelter protects from rain, wind, sun, mosquitoes, snakes.
By service life:

temporary (protection for several hours or days) are built for the time of overnight stays, daytime halts, in case of short-term natural situations;
capital (for survival, dragging on indefinitely).

By labor costs:

easily erected (temporary shelters);
labor-intensive (capital) - the construction requires skills, the necessary tools.

Based on source materials types of shelters are presented more widely:

fabric (canopy, tent, bivouac bag) - in the presence of covering material;
frame-fabric (plagues, wigwams) - you need a frame made of poles, metal tubes, skis, covered with a cloth;
frame-deciduous (canopy, hut, hut, Adyghe house) - the fabric is replaced by spruce branches, branches with foliage, turf, tree bark;
earthen (niche, burrow, cave, dugout) - dig in the ground;
snow (in snowdrifts they dig holes, a hole, a trench, a cave, a man-made snow-covered lair under a fallen tree - a winter refuge in the forest);
snow-block - blocks are cut out of packed snow to build an igloo, a snow house;
reed huts made of bundles of reeds;
stone (provide only wind protection) - the construction of sangars in the mountains, where the only building material is stones;
adobe (adobe mud huts, or clay-coated fences woven from poles and branches);
wooden (hut).

Origin:

natural (caves, gorges);
man-made;
combined.

By location relative to ground level: level, lower or higher.

The choice of shelter and types of shelters

There are more than a hundred primitive dwellings built by people in various geographical areas in emergency situations. Types of shelters differ in parameters and design, building materials, construction method. The presence of a tent immediately solves the issue of a roof over your head, the main thing is that the type of material is suitable for the surrounding natural conditions.

The type of shelter is chosen depending on:

functional purpose (from what adverse factors of nature, how long protection is needed);
specific conditions (geographic location, relief, season of the year);
availability of materials, tools;
time for the arrangement, having previously assessed the experience and strength of the workers.

It is important to build durable types of shelters that store heat as much as possible. Otherwise, the predicament of the people may become disastrous. Simplification of the design is permissible only with a shortage of tools, materials, time, and effort.

Summer shelters in the forest

Classic universal shelters usually have 3 main components: floor, roof and walls. Depending on the goals and conditions of survival, some of them may be discarded as unnecessary. Often this happens when there is a suitable place: windbreak, caves.

Arrangement of a canopy

A canopy is a primitive protection from precipitation, moderate wind, but will not save you from the cold. Such a shelter in the forest is easy to build, having a large piece of polyethylene, finding two standing nearby tree. A ceiling pole is laid in their forks (or notches on the bark). You can replace the pole with a tightly stretched rope. Throw a film on the support, stretch the canvas to form a 3-coal entrance, press down the lower edges with stones.

If there are no trees, then 2 stakes are driven into the soil at an angle of 45 degrees; a regular triangle is formed. The ceiling pole at one end lies in the fork formed by the stakes, the other rests on the ground. A cloth (film) is thrown over the pole, the edges of which are attached to stakes and rolled to the ground along the entire perimeter.

For a group, a canopy is made with a U-shaped entrance. It will be necessary to place two parallel ceiling poles at the right height, resting their ends on stakes with forks dug into the ground. A film is thrown over the poles, the lower edges of which are fixed on the ground. The design is bad in that water accumulates in the middle part of the “roof” and the canvas sags inward. A spruce branch will do for a shelter in the forest for a roof.

Wigwam or chum

This is a frame shelter in the forest and in the field, which can protect against precipitation, wind, and even freezing, if you make a fire from dry fuel in it so that there is no strong smoke (leave a hole at the top for the smoke exhaust).

Poles (5 pieces are enough, but more are more reliable) tie into a bundle from one end, from the other end - arrange on the ground in a circle. Spread the covering sheet over the frame. If it is not there, the wigwam is covered with bark from trees (birch bark, pine bark are suitable). Layers are arranged in circular rows, starting from the bottom. Between themselves, the pieces are fastened with willow twigs, if there is no twine.

On a note: in their design and properties, tents and wigwams are in many ways similar to a circular-type hut. You can learn more about such shelters in the forest from the article about and their arrangement.

In the districts strong winds a shelter is erected around a tree trunk, after clearing it of knots. But in this case, it will not work to make a fire inside. For frosty weather, a tent or wigwam can be “insulated” by covering them with snow blocks, placing stronger ones at the bottom.

Adyghe house

Flexible branches (preferably willow), dig into 2 rows parallel to each other, tie the tops - arches are obtained. Horizontal branches are passed through them. On the crate in rows, starting from the bottom, lay spruce branches or cover with a film. If the area is overgrown with shrubs, then tie the tops of neighboring bushes as arches, uproot the space between them.

In addition to the above, shelter in the forest can be found under a broken or uprooted coniferous tree(eversion). It is necessary to check its stability, cut off all the lower and upward branches, fold them on top of the remaining branches facing the ground.

Hut - a favorite type of shelter for children . The device is similar to a fabric canopy. The frame is made of poles, the fabric is replaced with spruce branches, branches with dense foliage, laid in rows on the walls of sticks leaning against the ceiling beam. The coating begins to be done from the bottom in rows. In the presence of snow, they sprinkle the walls.

Winter shelters and their types

The simplest and individual snow shelter from a slight frost is a single hole in a snowdrift. For the construction of a hole, a snowdrift 1 m high is sufficient. If there is no such snowdrift, then it is piled up. First, they trample down the chosen platform, put a backpack on the center, cover it from above. Snow is laid in a heap, periodically compacting it, then shoveled out from the leeward side with a spatula (or hands). Stowed things reduce the amount of work to remove the snow.

trench or pit

Snow shelter trenches are dug in deep snow, in the absence of a tool they are trampled under foot. Width - 1-2 m, length - from the presence of covering material. From above, across the trench, upon reaching a depth of 1.5 meters, "rafters" (skis, ski poles, poles) are laid 20-40 cm apart, covered with a film. The edges of the cloth are pressed with pieces of ice, snow, stones. A layer of snow 20 cm thick is poured on top.

In loose snow cover, the cross section of the trench is rectangular, with dense snow cover it is trapezoidal (narrower above). If there is no artificial coating, slabs of crust are laid on top of the rafters, a thick layer of spruce branches (snow cannot be poured over it - it will crumble or melt).

A snow pit is a shelter that is made in a deep packed snowdrift. First, they dig a well 2 m deep with a small diameter (up to 70 cm). Next, the person deepens the sides. The thickness of the ceiling depends on the strength of the snow. With a loose one - at least 80 cm, for a dense one 20 cm is enough. At the top, in order to avoid the collapse of the arch, the construction site is fenced with stuck sticks. At the bottom of the pit, make a bench half a meter high. The entrance is closed with a backpack. The construction of the pit is laborious.

snow cave

A properly designed snow cave is a reliable winter shelter. It is usually built on mountain slopes with a thick (at least 1.5 m) snow cover. The place should be avalanche safe. In a snowdrift, a hole is knocked out with their feet, from which a narrow tunnel digs deep into the depths - the most difficult stage of construction. Its dead end lifts up at an angle of 60 degrees and expands to the sides to the desired size. The waste snow is thrown into the tunnel, from where it is raked up. The ceiling of the cave is spherical. The construction is laborious, requires skills, perseverance, but this is the warmest shelter.