Main ridge. Main Caucasian Range

General character Caucasus mountains. - Snow-covered parts of the Main Range. - The main ridge between Elbrus and the Georgian military road. - The eastern part of the Main Range between Begyul and Baba-dag. - Part of the Main Range, lying to the west of Elbrus and up to Mount Oshten. - The total length of the part of the Main Range covered with eternal snow. - Lateral ridge. - The highest points of the eastern part of it. - Pirikiteli and Bogosskiy ridges. - Western part of the Side Range. - Ararat, Alagyoz and other high points of Transcaucasia.

The high Caucasian ridge with its countless spurs and gorges is a gigantic threshold rising between Europe and Asia. Not only in its geographical position, but also in many other respects, it represents an intermediate or transitional link between the mountains of the two parts of the world mentioned. This is the first mountainous country from Asia, says K. Ritter, which is distinguished by European construction. Like the European Alps, it narrows in the west and widens greatly in the east, reaching near the shores of the Caspian Sea almost 50 geographical miles wide. The northwestern part of the Caucasus, with its abundance of forests, resembles the mountains of Europe, while the southeastern part (Dagestan, in particular) approaches the mountains of Central Asia with its bare, lifeless cliffs.

“Here, on the threshold of Europe,” says Ritter, “begins the characteristic form of tall trees, which is the distinctive character of Central Europe. German oak (Quercus robur) and German beech (Fagus silvatica) overshadow the dwellings of the Indo-Germanic tribes in the North Caucasus.”

In terms of the height of the snow line, in terms of the size of both modern glaciers and glaciers of bygone eras, the Caucasus, as we will see below, also occupies the middle between the mountains of Europe and the giant ridges of Central Asia. Finally, by the height of the primary peaks, the average height of its crest, and some other features, the Caucasus also represents an intermediate link between the extreme members mentioned.

The well-known Russian scientist and traveler I. V. Mushketov says that, while doing research in Central Asia, he more than once came across questions that are completely insoluble with the help of those doctrines that were developed during the study of Europe, and that the study of such an intermediate area, like the Caucasus, should shed light on the study of Asia. Here, therefore, in particular, that fruitful idea is expressed, which was developed by Ritter in his numerous writings, namely, that the globe is not a lifeless mass, but an organism, all parts of which are in close connection and strict dependence on each other.

From the foregoing, the reader will understand that it is impossible to study the Caucasus, completely isolating it from the other mountains of both Europe and Asia, and that I will, of necessity, have to touch the mountains and glaciers of other countries from time to time, although in general terms.

The main Caucasian ridge is a continuous chain of mountains stretching from the Black Sea to the Caspian Sea for 1420 versts. The highest part of it lies between Elbrus and Kazbek, and especially between Elbrus and Adai-khokh. Between the last two points, as E. Favre notes, there is not a single pass below 3 thousand meters (9840 feet) above sea level. To the east of Adai-hoch, which has 15,244 lbs. (4647 m) of height, the Main Range drops strongly, forming the so-called Mamissonovsky Pass (9300 ft., or, according to Favre, 2862 m). Still further to the east it rises again, with some peaks exceeding 12,000 feet. (Zekari and Zilga-hoch reach over 12,500 feet in height); further east again follows a decrease. Here is the Buslachirsky pass (7746 f.) between the Terek and Aragva and the pass of the Georgian Military Road, or Krestovy (7957 f.), behind which the Main Range in a distant space (300 versts) is almost devoid of snow and ice. Finally, in the eastern part, in an area of ​​80 versts, precisely between Begyul and Baba Dag, it again rises strongly, reaching an average height of 12,664 feet, while individual points of it rise still much higher. Behind Baba-dag, having 11,934 l. height and separated only by 70 versts in a straight line from the Caspian Sea, the mountains gradually lower and, finally, merge with the low-lying seashore.

To the west of Elbrus, the ridge also drops, but here the snow line also drops very noticeably, so that, starting from Elbrus and up to the upper reaches of the Bolshaya Laba on the north side and the Bzyb on the south, the peaks of the Main Range rise significantly above the snow line and therefore are covered with almost continuous eternal snow. Mount Psysh, whose snows nourish both Laba and Bolshoy Zelenchuk, is the extreme point in the west, exceeding 12,000 pounds. height. Beyond Psysh, the mountains, descending more and more, reach Oshten and Fisht, which constitute one mountain range, rising to 9369 feet. (2856 m). This is the most extreme point in the west of the Main Caucasian Range, where you can still find eternal snow. Between Oshten and Psysh, the ridge is covered with snow, but not everywhere, but only in higher places. Further to the east, snow is visible on Abago and Shugus (10,624 ft.).

To the west of Oshten, the mountains immediately drop sharply, their crest is almost devoid of high bare rocks and is covered not only with meadows, but even with forests. It retains a similar character to the very shores of the Black Sea.

Thus, except for several peaks located in the eastern half of the Main Caucasian Range, only that part of it, which lies between the upper reaches of the Bolshaya Laba and the Georgian Military Highway, has the conditions necessary for the development of glaciers. This part, however, represents almost one-fifth of the entire Main Range. It is only about three hundred versts long, except for all the meanders.

The distribution of glaciers and eternal snows in the Caucasus is not limited, however, to the Main Range. The Caucasus, as noted by the famous geographer Karl Ritter, is similar in its relief to other ranges of Europe and is very different from the mountains of Asia. It is in it that there are nowhere such high plateaus that distinguish the mountains of Asia, but it represents a very complex system of high mountain ranges and their spurs. Thus, almost in the very middle of the Main Range, exactly where Adai-khokh rises, the Side Range intersects with the Main Range. To the west of Adai-khokh, this ridge stretches along the southern side of the Main, is separated from it by an average number of 25 versts, and reaches the Black Sea near Gagra. The other part of the Side Range, namely the one that stretches east of Adai-khokh, passes to the northern side of the Main Range, runs almost parallel to it, on average 20 versts from it and reaches the Caspian Sea.

The main Caucasian ridge, along its entire length from the Black to the Caspian Sea, is nowhere interrupted by transverse valleys and gorges, and represents a real watershed line, taken as the border between Europe and Asia; The side, of course, cannot form such a continuous ridge as the main one. The western part of it is interrupted by the following rivers: Rion, Tskhenistskhali, Ingur, Kodor and Bzybyu, and the eastern part - by Ardon, Terek, Argun, Andi Koisu, Avar Koisu and Samur.

Some parts of this ridge far exceed the parts of the Main one lying next to them, and in the same way, individual peaks of the first ridge rise above the highest (with the exception of perhaps 3-4, which are: Elbrus, Dykh-tau, etc.) points of the second. It is even possible that the highest part of the Lateral Range, lying between Adai-khokh and Kazbek, exceeds the highest part of the Main Range. In addition, most of the highest points of the Caucasus lie in this side chain. They include: Kazbek 16 546 f. (5043 m), Dzhimarai-khokh 15,694 f. (4783 m), Syrkhu-Barzoy 13,637 f. (4153 m), Tepli 14,510 f. (4422 m); and even further to the east, namely near the headwaters of the Argun, Avar and Andi Koisu, the side chain forms two very high ridges located north of the Main one, and has the following very high points: in the Pirikite ridge - Tebulosmta 14,781 f. (4506 m), Small Kachu, Diklosmta 13,717 f., Big Kachu 14,027 f. (4276 m), Kvavlosmta 13 7002, and in Bogossky - Ballakuri 12 323 f., Bochek, Kavalavissa and others. In addition, the peaks of the easternmost part of the Caucasus, namely: Shah-Dag (13,951 lbs.), Shalbuz-Dag (13,679 lbs.), Kizilkaya (12,247 lbs.), Are included in the Lateral Range.

The western part of the Side Range is much lower than the eastern part, and is completely devoid of particularly high peaks. Among the most exalted belongs Shoda (on the five-verst map of the Caucasus - Shoba), located on the right side of Rion, not far from Oni, and reaching 11,128 f. On top of it lies several snow fields. To the west of Shoda stretches the Svaneti Range; in the space of 20 versts, namely, almost from Mushur to Lyaila, it is covered with snow. The peaks of Lakura, Lyaila and Lyasil, as well as many other sharp teeth of this ridge, rise far above the snow line. To the east of Mushur, eternal snows are on Dadiash 5. According to Ilyin, the Svaneti Range is not inferior in height to that part of the Main Range that limits Svanetia from the north, and extends between Uzhba and Tetnuld, these paramount giants of the Caucasus Range. Many glaciers also descend from the northern slope of the Svaneti Range, and the southern one is dotted with snow spots. It should be noted, however, that due to the proximity of the Black Sea and the abundance precipitation the snow line lies lower here than on most of the Main Range.

Even further to the west, that is, on the mountains located between Ingur and Kodor, there are probably also peaks covered with snow, but this area is very little known. The snowy peaks in both parts of the Side Range occupy a total of 273 versts in length, and together - the Side and Main Ranges - about 570 versts. Thus, only for 570 versts the mountains of the Greater Caucasus are covered with snow and glaciers.

This account does not include, however, those few points in the South Caucasus that rise above the snow line. These include: Big Ararat (16,916 lbs., 5160 m) and Alagoz (13,436 lbs.). In addition, in the eastern part of the Pontic Range, which runs along the southern coast of the Black Sea, there are also a few peaks that rise to the line of eternal snows. Of these, Varchembek-dag, having 12,152 f. height and, according to Palgreve, strikingly reminiscent of the Matterhorn in its shape, is located within Turkey, and Karchkhal, towering in the Karchkhal ridge (a continuation of the Pontic), has 11,248 f. and is located within Russia (20 versts from Artvin. On all these peaks of the South Caucasus, with the exception of Ararat and Alagyoz, snow forms only small fields and narrow ribbons in summer that cannot give rise to glaciers. According to Masalsky, about the snow line on Pontisky the ridge is out of the question, and eternal snow is here only on Karchkhala.

In the southeastern part of the Caucasus, not far from the Persian border, there are also peaks that are freed from snow in rare years. To them belong: Kapujih, having 12,855 f. height and located 40 versts east of Nakhichevan, and Kazangyol-dag, rising to 12,649 ft. Insignificant deposits of snow still remain on the southern slopes of Gyamish (12,269 ft.), Ginal-dag (11,057 ft.) and Murov-dag (11,219 ft.); their northern side, which is under the influence of the sultry Elisavetopol valley, is freed from snow in summer time. Occasionally snow remains for a whole year on Godorebi (10,466 lbs.) and Abul (10,826 lbs.), towering on a ridge running along the border of Tiflis and Akhaltsikhe counties

Let us also mention two very high extinct volcanoes, although they do not belong to the Caucasus, but are located very close to it and not far from the shores of the Caspian Sea. One of them is called Damavend, and the other is Savalan. The first has £18,600 and the second £15,792. absolute height. Therefore, both of them rise above the snow line. On the northern slope of Damavend, which is influenced by the Caspian Sea, there is a lot of snow, there are even glaciers; Savalan has on its top, where in former times there was a crater, a lake with warm water. Probably, the excess of heat inside the mountain largely prevents the accumulation of snow on its slopes.

Main Caucasian (Dividing) Range- a continuous mountain range stretching for more than 1100 km from the northwest to the southeast from the Black Sea (Anapa region) to the Caspian Sea (Mount Ilkhydag northwest of Baku). The Caucasian Range divides the Caucasus into two parts: Ciscaucasia (Northern Caucasus) and Transcaucasia (South Caucasus).

The main Caucasian Range separates the basins of the Kuban, Terek, Sulak, and Samur rivers in the north, and the Inguri, Rioni, and Kura rivers in the south.

• Western Caucasus (limited from the east by Elbrus);
• Central Caucasus;
• Eastern Caucasus (limited from the west by Kazbek).

• width="170px"

Caucasus Mountains 0.JPG

Caucasus Mountains 1.JPG

Caucasus Mountains 2.JPG

Caucasus Mountains 3.JPG

Caucasus Mountains 4.JPG

Caucasus Mountains 5.JPG

Caucasus Mountains 6.JPG

general information

The entire system of the Main Caucasian Range occupies approximately 2,600 km². The northern slope covers about 1450 km², and the southern one - about 1150 km².

The northern slope is even more developed in the eastern part of the Caucasus Range, where numerous, and very significant in height and length, its spurs form the vast mountainous country of Dagestan ( Dagestan salient) - a large mountainous region, closed by the high Andean, Sala-Tau and Gimrinsky (2334 m) ridges. Gradually lowering to the north, the northern slope is formed by many advanced hills, which in places are in the form of ridges and mountain spurs; such mountain ranges include the so-called Black Mountains (see) ( Pasture Range), located north of the Main Range, at a distance 65 km from it. The Black Mountains form gentle and long slopes, in most areas covered with dense forests (hence the name), and fall to the south with steep cliffs. The rivers flowing from the Main Range break through the Black Mountains along deep and narrow, very picturesque gorges (Sulak Canyon up to 1800 m deep); the height of this forward chain is, in general, insignificant (in the west of Dagestan ledge ).

The southern slope is especially poorly developed in the western and eastern parts the ridge, reaching a fairly significant orographic development in the middle, where parallel elevations adjoin it, forming longitudinal valleys of the upper reaches of the Rioni, Inguri and Tskhenis-tskhali, and long spurs extend to the south, separating the Alazani, Iori and Kura basins.

The steepest and least developed section of the southern slope is where it falls to the Alazani valley; The city of Zagatala, located at an altitude of 355 m at the southern foot of the Caucasus Range, is only 20 km away in a straight line from its crest, which here reaches a height of more than 3,300 m above sea level. The Caucasian ridge is not distinguished by cross-country ability; only on its western and eastern extremities are there convenient and low passes, quite accessible all year round for communication.

Throughout the rest of the length, with the exception of the Mamison and Cross Passes (see the Georgian Military Road), the paths through the ridge in most cases are pack or even hiking paths, partly completely inaccessible for use in the winter season. Of all the passes, the most important is Krestovy (2,379 m), through which the Georgian Military Highway passes.

Glaciers

In terms of the number of glaciers, their area and size, the Caucasus Range is almost as good as the Alps. The largest number of significant glaciers is located in the Elbrus and Terek parts of the ridge, and there are about 183 glaciers of the first category in the basins of the Kuban, Terek, Liakhva, Rioni and Inguri, and 679 of the second category. In total, in the Greater Caucasus, according to the Catalog of Glaciers of the USSR (1967 -1978), 2,050 glaciers with a total area of ​​1,424 km². The size of the Caucasian glaciers is very diverse, and some of them (for example, Bezengi) are almost as large as the Aletsch glacier in the Alps. The Caucasian glaciers nowhere descend as low as, for example, the glaciers of the Alps, and in this respect are of great variety; so the Karaugom glacier ends down to a height of 1,830 m above sea level, and the Shah-Daga glacier (ShahDag city (4243 m), in the BazaarDyuzu) - up to a height of 3,320 m above sea level. The most famous glaciers of the Caucasus Range are:

AT ice Age the glaciers of the Caucasus Range were much more numerous and extensive than they are today; from the numerous traces of their existence, found far from modern glaciers, it can be concluded that the ancient glaciers extended in length for 53, 64 and even up to 106.7 or more kilometers, descending into valleys to heights of 244 ... 274 meters above sea level. Currently, most of the glaciers of the Caucasus Range are in a period of retreat, which has been lasting for several decades.

see also

Write a review on the article "The Main Caucasian Range"

Notes

1. This geographical feature is located in Abkhazia. According to the constitution of Georgia, Abkhazia is part of Georgia as the Autonomous Republic of Abkhazia. In fact, Abkhazia is the Republic of Abkhazia
2. This geographical feature is located in South Ossetia. According to the Georgian constitution, the territory of South Ossetia is part of Georgia. In fact, South Ossetia is a partially recognized state, the territory of which is not controlled by the Georgian government.
3. Dolgushin L.D., Osipova G.B. Glaciers. - M .: Thought, . - 447 p. - ISBN 5-244-00315-1.
4. The width of the mountain ranges of the (total) Greater Caucasus, not just the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range.
   Based on the above, the area of ​​​​the axial Dividing Ridge is 2,600 km², and the length is 1100-1150 (directly on the map) - 1500 km (along the ridge). That is, the width of the Main Caucasian Range [mountain ridge - the line of intersection of the slopes, the top part of the ridge along which the watershed line runs] in the estimated area is on average 2 (1.75-2.25) km.
5. Chernolesie, Chernobor, black forest, deciduous forest: birch, linden, alder, elm (birch bark), aspen, oak, ash, black sorrel, etc. (as well as (?) Caucasian persimmon - ebony); in which are found (were found at the time of the conquest of the Caucasus) black game, wild boar, wild boar, black-headed (kara-kuiruk), and black mushrooms, wolfworts, owls, russula and pigs ...
6. It is no longer a question of black mountains located to the north in the lower reaches and middle reaches of the rivers - at altitudes, mostly not exceeding 1200- 1500 m.
7. Map sheet K-38-40 Top. Zgid. Scale: 1: 100,000. State of the area in 1984. Edition 1988
   Karaug 42°47′44″ s. sh. 43°46′00″ E d. /  42.79556° N sh. 43.76667° E d./ 42.79556; 43.76667(G) (I)
   Burjula 42°47′00″ s. sh. 43°41′57″ E d. /  42.78333° N sh. 43.69917° E d./ 42.78333; 43.69917(G) (I)

Links

• veskavkaz.narod.ru/lib/eastkavkaz/index.html
• veskavkaz.narod.ru/lib/dagestan/index.html
• veskavkaz.narod.ru/lib/malkavkaz/index.html

An excerpt characterizing the Main Caucasian Range

Bogucharovo was always, before Prince Andrei settled in it, a private estate, and the men of Bogucharov had a completely different character from those of Lysogorsk. They differed from them in speech, clothing, and customs. They were called steppes. The old prince praised them for their endurance in their work when they came to help clean up the Bald Mountains or dig ponds and ditches, but did not like them for their savagery.
The last stay in Bogucharovo of Prince Andrei, with his innovations - hospitals, schools and easier dues - did not soften their morals, but, on the contrary, strengthened in them those character traits that the old prince called savagery. Some kind of obscure talk always went between them, either about listing them all as Cossacks, or about a new faith to which they would be converted, then about some kind of royal lists, then about an oath to Pavel Petrovich in 1797 (about which they said that then even the will came out, but the gentlemen took it away), then about Peter Feodorovich, who will reign in seven years, under whom everything will be free and it will be so simple that nothing will happen. Rumors about the war in Bonaparte and his invasion combined for them with the same vague ideas about the Antichrist, the end of the world and pure will.
In the vicinity of Bogucharov there were more and more large villages, state-owned and quitrent landlords. There were very few landowners living in this area; there were also very few serfs and literates, and in the life of the peasants of this area were more noticeable and stronger than in others, those mysterious jets of Russian folk life, the causes and significance of which are inexplicable to contemporaries. One of these phenomena was the movement between the peasants of this area to move to some warm rivers, which manifested itself about twenty years ago. Hundreds of peasants, including Bogucharov's, suddenly began to sell their livestock and leave with their families somewhere to the southeast. Like birds flying somewhere beyond the seas, these people with their wives and children strove to go there, to the southeast, where none of them had been. They went up in caravans, bathed one by one, ran, and rode, and went there, to the warm rivers. Many were punished, exiled to Siberia, many died of cold and starvation along the way, many returned on their own, and the movement died down by itself just as it had begun without an obvious reason. But the underwater streams did not stop flowing in this people and gathered for some kind of new force that could manifest itself just as strangely, unexpectedly, and at the same time simply, naturally and strongly. Now, in 1812, for a person who lived close to the people, it was noticeable that these underwater jets produced powerful work and were close to manifestation.
Alpatych, having arrived in Bogucharovo some time before the death of the old prince, noticed that there was unrest among the people and that, contrary to what was happening in the Bald Mountains on a sixty-verst radius, where all the peasants left (leaving the Cossacks to ruin their villages), in the steppe zone , in Bogucharovskaya, the peasants, as was heard, had relations with the French, received some papers that went between them, and remained in their places. He knew through the courtyard people devoted to him that the peasant Karp, who had recently traveled with a state-owned cart, and who had a great influence on the world, returned with the news that the Cossacks were devastating the villages from which the inhabitants came out, but that the French did not touch them. He knew that another peasant had even brought yesterday from the village of Visloukhovo, where the French were stationed, a paper from the French general, in which the inhabitants were declared that no harm would be done to them and that everything that was taken from them would be paid for if they stayed. As proof of this, the peasant brought from Visloukhov one hundred rubles in banknotes (he did not know that they were fake), given to him in advance for hay.
Finally, and most importantly, Alpatych knew that on the very day he ordered the headman to collect carts for the export of the princess's convoy from Bogucharov, in the morning there was a gathering in the village, at which it was supposed not to be taken out and wait. Meanwhile, time was running out. The leader, on the day of the death of the prince, on August 15, insisted on Princess Marya that she leave on the same day, as it was becoming dangerous. He said that after the 16th he was not responsible for anything. On the day of the prince's death, he left in the evening, but promised to come to the funeral the next day. But the next day he could not come, because, according to the news he himself received, the French suddenly moved in, and he only managed to take his family and everything valuable from his estate.
For about thirty years, Bogucharov was ruled by the headman Dron, whom the old prince called Dronushka.
Dron was one of those physically and morally strong men who, as soon as they enter the age, grow a beard, so, without changing, live up to sixty or seventy years, without one gray hair or lack of a tooth, just as straight and strong at sixty years old like at thirty.
Dron, shortly after moving to the warm rivers, in which he participated, like others, was made headman steward in Bogucharovo, and since then he has remained flawlessly in this position for twenty-three years. The men were more afraid of him than the master. Gentlemen, and the old prince, and the young, and the manager, respected him and jokingly called him a minister. During all the time of his service, Dron was never drunk or sick; never, not after sleepless nights, not after any kind of work, did not show the slightest fatigue and, not knowing the letter, never forgot a single account of money and pounds of flour for the huge convoys that he sold, and not a single shock of snakes for bread on every tithe of the Bogucharov fields.

The Main Caucasian (Dividing) Range is a continuous mountain range stretching for more than 1100 km from the northwest to the southeast from the Black Sea (Anapa region) to the Caspian Sea (Mount Ilkhydag northwest of Baku). The Caucasus Range divides the Caucasus into two parts: Ciscaucasia ( North Caucasus) and Transcaucasia (South Caucasus).

The Main Caucasian Range separates the basins of the Kuban, Terek, Sulak and Samur rivers in the north and the Inguri, Rioni and Kura rivers in the south.

The mountain system, which includes the Main Caucasian Range, is called the Greater Caucasus (or the Greater Caucasian Range), in contrast to the Lesser Caucasus, a vast highland located south of the Rioni and Kura valleys and directly connected with the uplands of Western Asia.

For a more convenient view, the Caucasus Range can be divided along the length from west to east into seven parts:

Black Sea Caucasus (from the meridian of Anapa to the Fisht-Oshten mountain group - approx. 265 km),

Kuban Caucasus (from Oshten to the source of the Kuban) - 160 km,

Elbrus Caucasus, or western (Karachai-Circassian) Elbrus region (from the source of the Kuban to the top of Adai-Khokh) - 170 km,

Tersky (Kazbek) Caucasus (from Adai-Khokh to the city of Barbalo) - 125 km,

Dagestan Caucasus (from Barbalo to the top of Sari-Dag) - 130 km,

Samur Caucasus (from Sari-Dag to the city of Baba-Dag) - approx. 130 km,

Caspian Caucasus (from Baba-Dag to the top of Ilkhydag) - approx. 170 km.

A more enlarged division is also adopted:

Western Caucasus (limited from the east by Elbrus);

Central Caucasus;

Eastern Caucasus (limited from the west by Kazbek).

The entire system of the Main Caucasian Range occupies approximately 2,600 km². The northern slope covers about 1450 km², and the southern one - about 1150 km².

The width of the Caucasus Range in the western (somewhat west of Elbrus, and including the Elbrus mountain range) and eastern (Dagestan) parts is about 160 ... 180 km, in the central - about 100 km; both extremities are strongly narrowed and represent (especially the western) an insignificant width.

The highest is the middle part of the ridge, between Elbrus and Kazbek (average heights are about 3,400 - 3,500 m above sea level); its highest peaks are concentrated here, the highest of which - Elbrus - reaches a height of 5,642 m above sea level. m.; east of Kazbek and west of Elbrus, the ridge drops, and more significantly in the second direction than in the first.

In general, in height, the Caucasian Range significantly exceeds the Alps; it has no less than 15 peaks exceeding 5,000 m, and more than 20 peaks above Mont Blanc, the highest peak in all of Western Europe. The advanced heights accompanying the Main Range, in most cases, do not have the character of continuous chains, but are short ridges or mountain groups connected with the watershed ridge by spurs and cut through in many places by deep gorges of rivers, which, starting in the Main Range and breaking through the advanced heights, descend to the foothills and out onto the plains.

Mount Elbrus from the air - the roof of Europe

Thus, almost along its entire length (in the west - from the south, in the east - from the north), a series of high basins adjoins the watershed ridge, in most cases of lacustrine origin, closed on the one hand by the heights of the watershed, as well as its spurs, and on the other - separate groups and short ridges of advanced hills, which in some places surpass the main chain in height.

On the north side of the watershed, transverse basins predominate, and on the south, except for its western extremity, longitudinal ones. It is also characteristic of the Caucasus Range that many of the primary peaks do not lie on the Dividing Ridge, but on the extremities of its short spurs heading north (such is the position of the peaks of Elbrus, Koshtan, Adai-khokh, etc.). This is the so-called Lateral Caucasian Range, which stretches in the vast majority of cases (in many places) even below the Rocky.

Northern slope of the Caucasus Range

The northern, more developed slope of the Caucasus Range, formed by many spurs, adjoining in general almost perpendicular to the Main Range and separated by deep transverse valleys, reaches a very significant development in the vicinity of Elbrus (Elbrus ledge). The most significant uplift [the Elbrus-Mineralnye Vody fault zone] goes straight north from this peak, serves as a watershed between the waters of the Kuban (Azov) and the Terek (Caspian Sea) and, descending further in ledges, spreads into the island mountains of Pyatigorye and the vast Stavropol Upland (the main uplift reaches the Pasture Ridge, bordering the horseshoe Kislovodsk basin, turns south (Kislovodsk) to the east, along with gorges and river valleys stretches to the Terek-Sunzhensky interfluve - forming the Terek-Sunzhenskaya upland, and further - up to the Andisky ridge).

The northern slope is even more developed in the eastern part of the Caucasus Range, where numerous, and very significant in height and length, its spurs form the vast mountainous country of Dagestan (Dagestan ledge) - a large mountainous region enclosed by the high Andean, Sala-Tau and Gimrynsky (2334 m ) ridges. Gradually lowering to the north, the northern slope is formed by many advanced hills, which in places are in the form of ridges and mountain spurs; such mountain ranges include the so-called Black Mountains (see) (Pasture Range), located to the north of the Main Range, at a distance of 65 km from it. The Black Mountains form gentle and long slopes, in most areas covered with dense forests (hence the name), and fall in steep cliffs to the south. The rivers flowing from the Main Range break through the Black Mountains along deep and narrow, very picturesque gorges (Sulak Canyon up to 1800 m deep); the height of this advanced chain, in general, is insignificant, although (in the west of the Dagestan ledge) in upstream Ardona and Urukh, some of their peaks reach a height of more than 3,300 m above sea level (Kion-hokh - 3,423 m, Kargu-Khokh - 3,350 m, Vaza-Khokh - 3,529 m (Rocky and Side Ridge)).

view of the Caucasus Range from the Rosa Khutor base

The southern slope is especially poorly developed in the western and eastern parts of the ridge, reaching a rather significant orographic development in the middle, where it is adjoined by parallel hills, forming longitudinal valleys of the upper reaches of the Rioni, Inguri and Tskhenis-tskhali, and long spurs extending to the south, separating the Alazani basins , Iori and Kura.

The steepest and least developed section of the southern slope is where it falls to the Alazani valley; The city of Zagatala, located at an altitude of 355 m at the southern foot of the Caucasus Range, is only 20 km away in a straight line from its crest, which here reaches a height of more than 3,300 m above sea level. The Caucasian ridge is not distinguished by cross-country ability; only on its western and eastern extremities are there convenient and low passes, quite accessible all year round for communication.

Throughout the rest of the length, with the exception of the Mamison and Cross Passes (see the Georgian Military Road), the paths through the ridge in most cases are pack or even hiking paths, partly completely inaccessible for use in the winter season. Of all the passes, the most important is Krestovy (2,379 m), through which the Georgian Military Highway passes.

Central Caucasus

Glaciers of the Caucasus

In terms of the number of glaciers, their area and size, the Caucasus Range is almost as good as the Alps. The largest number of significant glaciers is located in the Elbrus and Terek parts of the ridge, and there are about 183 glaciers of the first category in the basins of the Kuban, Terek, Liakhva, Rioni and Inguri, and 679 of the second category. In total, in the Greater Caucasus, according to the Catalog of Glaciers of the USSR (1967 —1978), 2,050 glaciers with a total area of ​​1,424 km². The size of the Caucasian glaciers is very diverse, and some of them (for example, Bezengi) are almost as large as the Aletsch glacier in the Alps. The Caucasian glaciers nowhere descend as low as, for example, the glaciers of the Alps, and in this respect are of great variety; so the Karaugom glacier ends down to a height of 1,830 m above sea level, and the Shah-Daga glacier (ShahDag city (4243 m), in the BazarDyuzu region) - to a height of 3,320 m above sea level. The most famous glaciers of the Caucasus Range are:

Mount Fisht, Caucasus

Name of the glacier (Mountain from which it descends)

Bezengi (bass. Cherek Bezengi) Shota Rustaveli Peak, Shkhara

Dykh-Su [Dykh-Kotyu-BugoySu]

Karaugom (Uruh, bass. Terek) Adai-hoh

Tsaneri [Tsanner] (bass. Inguri) Tetnuld

Devdoraki (bass. Amali) Kazbek

Big Azau (Baksan, Terek basin) Elbrus, southern shoulder

Snow Valley Jikiugankez

Malka and Baksan Elbrus, eastern shoulder

Tsei (Ardon, bass Terek)

Lekhzyr [Lekzyr, Lekziri] (bass. Inguri)

Ezengi (Yusengi)

Donguzorun-Cheget-Karabashi (west), Yusengi ridge (east)

Shkheldy glacier (Adylsu, bass. Baksan)

Shkhelda (4368 m),

Chatyntau (4411 m)

panorama of the Caucasian ridge

During the Ice Age, the glaciers of the Caucasus Range were much more numerous and extensive than they are today; from the numerous traces of their existence, found far from modern glaciers, it can be concluded that the ancient glaciers extended in length for 53, 64 and even up to 106.7 or more kilometers, descending into valleys to heights of 244 ... 274 meters above sea level. Currently, most of the glaciers of the Caucasus Range are in a period of retreat, which has been lasting for several decades.

Main Caucasian Range - Abkhazia

MAJOR PEAKS AND GLACIERS OF THE CAUCASIAN RIDGE

Bezengi is a mountainous region of Kabardino-Balkaria, the central, highest part of the Caucasus Mountains, including the Bezengi wall of the main Caucasian ridge and the lateral ridges adjacent from the north, forming the basin of the Cherek Bezengi river.

Bezengi wall

The Bezengi wall is a 42-kilometer mountain range, the highest section of the main Caucasian ridge. Usually, the peaks of Lyalver (in the west) and Shkhara (in the east) are considered the boundaries of the wall.

To the north, the wall abruptly breaks up to 3000 m to the Bezengi glacier (Ullu-Chiran). To the south, towards Georgia, the relief is complex, there are both wall sections and high-altitude glacial plateaus.

Peaks of the area

Bezengi wall

Lalver (4350)

Yesenin Peak (4310)

Gestola (4860)

Katyntau (4974)

Dzhangitau (5085)

Sh. Rustaveli Peak (4960)

Shkhara (5068)

Mount Dykhtau, Side Ridge

side ridge

Koshtantau (5152)

Krumkol (4676)

Tikhonov Peak (4670)

Mijirgi (5025)

Pushkin Peak (5033)

Dykhtau (5204)

warm corner

Gidan (4167)

Archimedes Peak (4100)

Georgia, Trinity Monastery near Mount Kazbek

Salynan-bashi (4348)

Ortokara (4250)

Peak Ryazan

Peak Brno (4100)

Misses tau (4427)

Peak Cadets (3850)

Mount Shkhara

THE HIGHEST PEAK OF GEORGIA

Shkhara (Georgian შხარა) is a mountain peak in the central part of the Main Caucasian (Dividing) Range, the highest point in Georgia. Altitude 5,068 m above sea level, some sources give an estimate of 5,201 m. Located in Svaneti from the south and Bezengi in Kabardino-Balkaria from the north, on the border with Russia, about 90 km north of the city of Kutaisi. It is part of a unique 12-kilometer mountain range known as the Bezengi Wall.

Composed of granites and crystalline schists. The slopes are covered with glaciers, on the northern slope - the Bezengi glacier, on the southern slope - the Shkhara glacier, from which the Inguri River partially originates. Popular climbing site. Soviet climbers first climbed Shkhara in 1933.

At the foot of the southern slopes of Shkhara, at an altitude of 2,200 m above sea level, there is the village of Ushguli in the Mestia region of Svaneti, which is included in the list world heritage UNESCO.

MOUNT TETNULD Main Caucasian Range

Tetnuld (Georgian თეთნულდი "white mountain") is a peak in the spur of the Bezengi wall, the Main Caucasian Range in the region of Upper Svaneti, Georgia, 2 km south of the peak of Gestola and the border Russian Federation(Kabardino-Balkaria).

Height - 4 869 m.

The peak is two-headed, composed of ancient crystalline rocks. The glaciers Oish, Nageb, (sources of the Inguri), Adish and others flow down from Tetnuld. total area glaciers - 46 km².

22 km west of the summit is the regional center of Mestia.

Mount Gestola

Tsey Glacier

Tsey glacier (Ossetian Ts'yy ts'iti) is a valley glacier on the northern slope of the Greater Caucasus, one of the largest and lowest descending glaciers of the Caucasus.

The Tsey glacier is located in North Ossetia and is fed mainly by the snows of Mount Adai-Khokh (4,408 m). The Tseisky glacier descends to a height of 2,200 m above sea level, that is, below the vast majority of the glaciers of the Caucasus. Its length, together with the firn fields, is about 9 km, the area is 9.7 km². At the very bottom, it is rather narrow, and above it expands greatly, reaching 1 km in width. Cramped by rocks at an altitude of 2,500 m above sea level, it forms countless cracks and has several icefalls, but higher its surface becomes more even again.

The Tseisky glacier is formed from 2 large and 2 smaller branches. From the ice arch of the Tsey glacier flows the beautiful river Tsey (Tseydon), which flows from west to east through a deep picturesque and covered pine forest gorge. It flows into Ardon from the left side.

Near the Tseisky glacier there are climbing camps and the Ossetia tourist center, as well as the Goryanka hotel, the SKGMI scientific station and the weather station. Two cable cars are laid to the glacier. Mountain-climatic resort area - Tsey.

Many poems are devoted to the Tsey glacier and the gorge, both by eminent authors (for example, “Tseyskaya” by Yuri Vizbor) and folk:

What a beautiful camp Tsey, /

I have many friends here. /

And the mountains are nearby - I won't hide it. /

As soon as you go beyond the threshold, /

Before the eyes of Adai-Khokh, /

And a gray lump of "Monk" over his head ...

Mount Adai-Khokh

Friend, thank you for the cup,

I hold the sky in my hand

Mountain air of the state

I drink on the Tsey glacier.

Nature itself is here

A clear trace of bygone times -

nineteenth year

Purifying ozone.

And down from Sadon's pipes

Gray smoke stretches

To me during it

This cold did not carry away.

There, under the roofs, like a grid,

The rain breathes and trembles

And on a string a trolley

Runs like a black bead.

I am present at the meeting

Two times and two heights

And prickly snow on the shoulders

Old Tsey puts me.

Moscow, 1983. Arseny Tarkovsky

Mount Monk

MOUNTAIN Donguzorun-Cheget

Donguzorun-Cheget-Karabashi or Donguz-Orun is the peak of the Main (or Dividing Range) of the Greater Caucasus, in the Elbrus region. It is located in the Republic of Kabardino-Balkaria of the Russian Federation. Height - 4454 m.

Nearby, at an altitude of 3203 m, there is the Donguzorun mountain pass through the Main Range between the valleys of the Baksan (Russia) and Inguri (Georgia) rivers. At the foot of the Donguzorun-Cheget-Karabashi flows one of the tributaries of the Baksan - the Donguz-Orun River.

MOUNT ACHISHO

Achishkho (Adyghe goat mountain: Achi - "goat", shkho - "height", "peak".) (Nedezhui-Kushkh) - a mountain range in the Western Caucasus, located on the territory Krasnodar Territory Russian Federation. Altitude up to 2391 m (Mount Achishkho, 10 km north-west of Krasnaya Polyana).

The ridge is composed of shales and volcanic (tuffaceous) rocks. The landscapes of the Achishkho Ridge are characterized by ancient glacial landforms and ridge lakes (including karst ones), and there are waterfalls.

The ridge is located in the humid climate zone - the annual precipitation is up to 3000 mm (the highest value in Russia), the thickness of the snow cover reaches 10 m. sunny days does not exceed 60-70 days a year.

The slopes of Achishkho are covered with broad-leaved, mostly beech, fir forests in the north, and mountain meadows on the peaks.

The ridge is popular with hikers. There are dolmens.

Caucasian State Natural

biosphere reserve

The reserve is the successor of the Caucasian bison reserve, established on May 12, 1924, located in the Western Caucasus, on the border of the temperate and subtropical climatic zones. The total area of ​​the reserve is more than 280 thousand hectares, of which Krasnodar Territory- 177.3 thousand hectares.

On February 19, 1979, by decision of UNESCO, the Caucasus Reserve was given the status of a biosphere reserve, and in January 2008 it was named after Kh. G. Shaposhnikov. In 1999, the territory of the Caucasian State Natural Biosphere Reserve was included in the World Heritage List

Kuban hunting

In 1888, on behalf of the Grand Dukes Peter Nikolayevich and Georgy Mikhailovich, about 80 thousand acres of land in the region of the Greater Caucasus Range were leased from the forest dachas of the Ministry of State Property and the Kuban Regional Military Administration. An agreement was concluded with the Kuban Rada on the exclusive right to hunt in these territories for the Grand Dukes. Later, the territories became known as the Great Kuban Hunting.

A few years later, the princes stopped traveling to the Kuban for health reasons, and then in 1892 they transferred the right to hunt to Grand Duke Sergei Mikhailovich, who took up active development of the territory.

bison reserve

In 1906, the ending lease on the territory of the Kuban hunting was extended for another three years, after which these lands were planned to be divided between the villages of the Kuban Cossacks. In 1909, Kh. G. Shaposhnikov, who worked as a forester of the Belorechensk forestry of the Kuban Army, sent a letter to Russian Academy sciences with the rationale for the need to reserve the territory leased from the Kuban Army. The main reason for the creation of the reserve was the protection of the endangered Caucasian bison. The letter also outlined the boundaries of the reserve. Based on this letter, Academician H. Nasonov made a report, and the Academy of Sciences created a commission. As a military forester, Shaposhnikov participated in her work on the organization of the reserve. However, for a number of reasons related to the division of land by the Kuban Cossacks, things did not progress significantly.

Repeated attempts to create a reserve were made in 1913 and 1916. Finally, in 1919, a positive decision was made.

With the establishment of Soviet power in the region, the issue of the reserve had to be decided anew. Only in May 1924, the state Caucasian bison reserve was established.

Cross Pass - the highest point of the Georgian military road

DEFENSE OF THE CAUCASIAN RIDGE

Fighting on the passes.

In mid-August 1942, the 1st and 4th divisions of the 49th German Mountain Rifle Corps, concentrated in the area of ​​​​Nevinnomyssk and Cherkessk, began to move freely towards the passes of the Main Caucasian Range, since there were no our troops in this direction, and 46 The 1st army, which was instructed to organize the defense, did not even have time to approach the southern slopes of the passes. There were no engineering structures on the passes.

By August 14, the 1st German mountain rifle division reached the Verkhnyaya Teberda, Zelenchukskaya, Storozhevaya area, and the 4th German mountain rifle division went to the Akhmetovskaya area. Strong groups of specially trained enemy climbers, who had experienced guides, preempted our units and, from August 17 to October 9, occupied all the passes in the area from Mount Elbrus to the Umpyrsky Pass. On the Klukhor and Sanchar directions, the Nazis, having overcome the Main Caucasian Range, reached its southern slopes, advancing 10-25 km. There was a threat of the capture of Sukhumi and disruption of supply along the communications that ran along the Black Sea coast.

On August 20, the Headquarters of the Supreme High Command demanded from the commander of the Transcaucasian Front, along with the creation of a strong defense in the main operational areas, the immediate strengthening of the defense of the Main Caucasian Range, especially the Georgian Military, Military Ossetian and Military Sukhumi roads. The Headquarters ordered to blow up and fill up all the passes and paths, mountain passes, on which no defensive structures were created, and to prepare the areas defended by the troops for an explosion in case of withdrawal. It was proposed to appoint commandants on all roads and directions, placing on them full responsibility for the defense and condition of the roads.

Fulfilling the instructions of the Headquarters, the command of the Transcaucasian Front began to deploy forces in order to stop the offensive of the Nazi troops on the passes of the Main Caucasian Range.

On the Elbrus direction, units of the 1st German mountain rifle division, taking advantage of the absence of our troops, occupied on the southern slopes of Mount Elbrus on August 18 the Hotyu-Tau and Chiper-Azau passes, the Krugozor and Shelter Eleven tourist bases. Units of the 8th Motorized Regiment of the NKVD and the 63rd Cavalry Division, which approached here, threw the enemy back from these passes to the Shelter of Eleven, where he was held until January 1943.

The Klukhorsky pass was covered by a company of the 815th regiment. On August 15, the enemy sent a regiment here. Unable to withstand a strong blow, the defenders of the pass began to retreat to the southern slopes, where there were two more companies. The fighting was fierce. Having learned about them on August 17, the command of the 46th Army sent two battalions and an NKVD detachment to help the units of the 816th regiment, which, having approached the battle area on August 22, stopped the further advance of the Nazis. On September 8, enemy units were driven back to the Klukhor Pass, where they remained until January 1943.

On September 5, the enemy regiment, after a concentrated bombing strike by aviation and a fire raid by artillery and mortars, launched an attack on the Marukh Pass, which was defended by two battalions. After stubborn fighting, the defenders were forced to leave the pass on September 7th. The further advance of the Germans here was stopped by the approaching reinforcements, but it was not possible to throw them off the pass until January 1943. The Sanchar Pass was defended by one company and a combined detachment of the NKVD. On August 25, the fascist German command moved a regiment against them. The Nazis managed to knock out our units from the pass and almost unhindered to reach the area, which is 25 km from Gudauta and Sukhumi. The urgently created Sancharskaya group of troops, consisting of one rifle regiment, two rifle battalions, two regiments of the NKVD and a detachment of cadets of the 1st Tbilisi Infantry School. On August 29, the group came into contact with the German units, stopped them, and on August 6, with the support of aviation, went on the offensive.

Two days later, she captured the village of Pskhu, which served as the enemy's main base on the southern slopes of the Main Caucasian Range. Now the Nazis did not have a single settlement left in this area. By October 20, our troops in the Sanchar direction, with the support of the aviation of the Black Sea Fleet, threw them back to the northern slopes of the Main Caucasian Range.

The role of the aviation of the Black Sea Fleet in defeating the enemy grouping in the Sanchar direction is enormous. Aircraft DB-3, SB, Pe-2 and R-10, based at the airfields of Gudauta and Babusheri at a distance of 25-35 km from the front line, daily made 6-10 sorties to deliver bombing strikes against enemy troops, and on days of intense fighting - up to 40 sorties. In total, in September 1942, the aviation of the Black Sea Fleet dropped about a thousand FAB-100s on the Sancharsky and Marukhsky passes.

Thus, our troops, having almost no artillery and mortars, received the greatest and only support from naval aviation.

The fascist German command also tried to seize the Umpyrsky and Belorechensky passes. On the Umpyrsky Pass, which was defended by two companies, the Nazis on August 28 threw two reinforced battalions. However, thanks to a well-organized defense, the courageous actions of the Soviet soldiers, numerous enemy attacks were repulsed. The Belorechensky Pass was stormed by an infantry regiment and several squadrons of enemy cavalry supported by artillery. By the energetic actions of our forces and the approaching reserves, the enemy was stopped, and then thrown back far to the north.

So, by the actions of units of the 46th Army and aviation of the Black Sea Fleet, the offensive of the 49th German Mountain Rifle Corps, specially prepared for combat operations in the mountains, was thwarted. By the end of October 1942, a stable defense of the Main Caucasian Range was created.

Antiamphibious defense of the Poti naval base. In July - December, the defense of the Black Sea coast from the Soviet-Turkish border to Lazarevskaya was carried out by the forces of the Poti naval base together with the 46th Army of the Transcaucasian Front. In the second half of August, when the Nazi troops approached the passes of the Main Caucasian Range, the 46th Army was redirected to repulse this main danger, the defense of the coast became the sole task of the Poti naval base.

The composition of the base forces changed with the situation. The enemy stepped up reconnaissance of the main base of the fleet and began to bombard the base and ships. By the end of December, the air defense base area was replenished with a regiment and thus included three anti-aircraft regiments and a separate anti-aircraft artillery battalion. The rifle units of the base also increased by one battalion and two platoons. marines. But these forces were clearly not enough to organize a reliable defense of the coast, so it was built on the principle of creating separate centers of resistance that covered the main directions. Between the nodes of resistance, blockages and notches were built, separate machine-gun points were installed, and anti-personnel minefields were set up.

The strongest defense from land was created in the area of ​​Poti and Batumi, where it was decided to equip four lines: forward, main, rear and internal. The forward line of defense was to pass from the base at a distance of 35-45 km, the main line - at a distance of 25-30 km, the rear line - at a distance of 10-20 km from Poti and Batumi, the inner line - directly on the outskirts and deep in the gardens. For street fighting, it was planned to build barricades and anti-tank obstacles.

However, the planned engineering defenses were not built. Due to the lack of manpower, the forward and main lines of defense were not equipped at all, and on the rear line, by October 25, work was only 75% completed.

The entire defense area of ​​Poti from the land was divided into three sectors. The first sector was defended by a battalion of marines with the support of eleven coastal artillery guns, the second sector - by the coastal defense school and the border detachment (343 people and seven guns), the third sector - by the personnel of the 1st brigade torpedo boats and a border detachment (105 men and eight guns). There were about 500 people in the reserve of the commander of the Poti naval base. In addition, all sectors were supported by naval artillery.

In order to better use forces in the defense of the coast, a manual was developed on the antiamphibious defense of the Poti naval base.

However, there were significant shortcomings in the organization of coastal defense. The engineering structures created at the beginning of 1942, due to the long time frame for their construction, fell into disrepair by 30-40% and required a solid repair. Coastal artillery was poorly prepared to repulse the enemy from land. Batteries No. 716 and 881 had no shrapnel shells at all. Over 50% of the personnel of the 164th separate artillery battalion did not have rifles.

There were major shortcomings in the organization of the air defense of the base, which were revealed during an enemy air raid on Poti on July 16. First of all, the monitoring and warning system was poorly developed. So, due to the location of patrol boats near the base, the command of the air defense base area was not able to detect the enemy in time and raise fighter aircraft, and some anti-aircraft batteries were not even notified of the approach of enemy aircraft.

However, despite all these shortcomings, the formations and units of the Poti naval base ensured a reliable basing of the fleet and created favorable conditions for the operations of units of the 46th Army on the passes of the Main Caucasian Range.

Conclusions on the actions of the Black Sea Fleet in the defense of bases and coasts

As a result of a five-month offensive in the second half of 1942, the Nazi troops achieved significant success. They captured the North Caucasus and the Taman Peninsula, reached the foothills of the Main Caucasian Range and the Terek River, and captured the passes. The enemy managed to occupy economically important areas and create a difficult situation for our troops in the Caucasus, but he was unable to overcome the defenses of our troops and achieve strategic success.

In the course of fierce defensive battles, the Soviet troops and the Black Sea Fleet bled the enemy, stopped his offensive in the foothills and at the turn of the Terek River, and thereby thwarted Hitler's plans to capture the entire Caucasus and the Soviet Black Sea Fleet.

The Black Sea Fleet and the Azov Flotilla, operationally subordinate to the command of the North Caucasian Front, and then the Transcaucasian Front, closely interacting with these fronts, provided them with great assistance in the defense and defeat of the Nazi troops in the Caucasus. The Black Sea Fleet and the Azov Flotilla reliably covered the coastal flank of our ground forces, organizing the antiamphibious defense of the Azov and Black Sea coasts, allocating for this purpose about 40 thousand people from the marine corps units, coastal and anti-aircraft artillery units, 200 anti-aircraft guns, 150 coastal artillery guns, 250 warships, ships and watercraft and up to 250 aircraft.

Parts of the Marine Corps, Coastal Artillery and Aviation, operating on land, showed stamina, high moral and political spirit, mass heroism and an unbending will to defeat the enemy.

Although the antiamphibious defense of the coast by the Black Sea Fleet was organized in accordance with the situation and fully justified itself, it should be recognized that it was poorly saturated with rifle units, which gave the enemy the opportunity to land troops on the Taman Peninsula on September 2, 1942 and make an attempt to land on the night of October 30 landing on the eastern shore of the Tsemess Bay.

The experience of the defense of Novorossiysk and Tuapse showed that the delay in organizing forces for defense, the shallow depth of defense and the dispersion of forces led to significant losses in manpower and equipment and the loss of Novorossiysk, and the timely creation of the Tuapse defensive region made it possible to organize a deep, strong defense of the base from land and not allow the enemy to enter the defended area. The experience of base defense also showed that one of the main reasons for their rapid fall was the lack of reserves at the base command, which did not allow timely reflection of enemy attacks.

The experience of base defense confirmed the need to organize interaction and unite all forces under a single command. The best form of such an organization was a fully justified defensive area, divided into sectors and combat areas.

The heroic defense of the Caucasus was a good military school for units Soviet army and the Black Sea Fleet. In the course of it, they accumulated vast combat experience and mastered the tactics of operations in the mountains. The Soviet troops were re-equipped with light weapons, the infantry units were reinforced with engineering formations, the commanders mastered the art of command and control in difficult conditions, the rear organized the supply of troops in the mountains, using aviation and all types of transport, including pack.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________

SOURCE OF INFORMATION AND PHOTO:

Team Nomads.

B.A. Garf. Bezengi Gorge. - Moscow: State publishing house of geographical literature, 1952.
A.F. Naumov. Central Caucasus. - Moscow: "PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORT", 1967.

http://www.sk-greta.ru/

Bush I. A. Glaciers of the Western Caucasus. Notes of the Russian Geographical Society on General Geography. T. XXXIII. No. 4, 1905,

Dictionary of modern geographical names/ Under the general editorship of Acad. V. M. Kotlyakova. - Yekaterinburg: U-Factoria, 2006.

around Elbrus. Tourist route map (M. 1:100,000). Pyatigorsk: North-Kav. AGP. 1992. Roskartografiya 1992, 1999 (with a more detailed description)

http://www.anapacity.com/bitva-za-kavkaz/glavnyj-kavkazskiy-hrebet.html

Topographic map K-38-13. - GUGK USSR, 1984.

Wikipedia site.

Opryshko O. L. Cloudy front of the Elbrus region. - M .: Military Publishing House, 1976. - 152 p. - (The heroic past of our Motherland). — 65,000 copies.

Beroev B. M. Elbrus region: Essay on nature. Chronicle of the conquest of Elbrus. Tourist routes. — M.: Profizdat, 1984. — 208 p. - (One hundred ways - one hundred roads). - 97,500 copies.

http://ii1.photocentra.ru/

http://photosight.ru/

The source material of the publication is photographs taken from the top of the mountain Kezgen in July 2007 and July 2009. They formed the basis two basic panoramas.

PANORAMA-1:– evening panorama (July 2007). It covers the GKH sector from the Bezengi wall to Chatyn, as well as the areas of the spurs of the Main ridge descending to the Russian side - Chegem, Adyrsu and Adylsu.

PANORAMA-2:– morning panorama (July 2009). Partially overlapping Panorama-1, it represents the GKH sector from the Bezengi wall to Azau, the Russian spurs of the GKH - Adyrsu, Adylsu, Yusengi, Kogutai and Cheget, the Azau-Elbrus jumper, as well as South-Eastern (with Terskolak peak) and Vostochny (with Irikchat peak ) spurs of Elbrus.

Attached to the two main panoramas additional PANORAMA-3(July 2007). It gives a view of the spurs of the Eastern Elbrus in the Subashi-Kyrtyk-Mukal sector from the pass of Russian officers (which is near the top of Kezgen, 150 m below it).

Together, these three panoramas cover the entire viewing circle.

Camera- Nikon 8800.

More about Kezgen peak.
Kezgen is located in the highest of the eastern spurs of Elbrus - that stretches from the peak hanging over its ice fields Chatkara(3898 m) to the villages of Elbrus and Neutrino in the Baksan valley. The spur has a number of left branches towards the Subashi, Kyrtyk and Syltransu rivers, while it borders the Irikchat river valley and, after its confluence with the Irik, the Irik valley with its left side. The main peak in this spur is Irikchat(4054 m), slightly inferior to her Subashi(3968 m) in the northwest and the equally high duo Kezgen - Soviet warrior(4011 m) in the southeast.

The ascent to Kezgen is beautiful, pleasant and uncomplicated. The beginning of the movement towards Kezgen, the Soviet warrior and Irikchat is common - from the floodplain of the Irikchat river on a grassy slope, along a path that is clearly visible from afar. Then the paths diverge, the Kezgen path takes to the right. Upon reaching the scree slopes, it is lost on the upper traverses, but with sufficient visibility past the take-off opening to the left to the pass of Russian officers (tourist 1B) you can’t miss. The exit from the pass saddle to the summit (along the north-eastern ridge) is also simple - 1B climbing. (Kezgen was sometimes visited by climbers as part of the traverse Kezgen - a Soviet warrior, who was known in the Adylsu camps as a kind of exile.)

Kezgen is the nearest four-thousander north of Baksan, the peaks closer to the river are much lower. This advantageous feature of its location and the unpretentiousness of the route make Kezgen an excellent observation point.

PANORAMAS, SIGNS, INTERPRETATION.

PANORAMA-1 (more than 800 Kb, 8682 x 850 pixels) in its original form:

PANORAMA-1 with peaks, passes, glaciers and gorges marked on it:

PANORAMA-2 (more than 1.2 Mb, 10364 x 1200 pixels) in its original form:

PANORAMA-2 with peaks, passes, glaciers and gorges marked on it:

Additional PANORAMA-3 - view to the northeast in the valley of the Mukal glacier:

Accepted designations and general principles.

On the panorama are marked:

Mountain peaks- colored circles
passes- crosses,
glaciers- rectangles,
gorges (river valleys)- double wave.

At passes, glaciers and gorges, the numbering is continuous, from right to left.

All signs glaciers and gorges blue. Signs passes and peaks painted in different colors, depending on their belonging to a particular mountainous region.

The color differentiation of the icons helps to more clearly represent and trace the location of the various mountain regions visible in the panorama, especially where they overlap.

Used colors:

- dense green: for objects outside the State border of the Russian Federation,
- red: for the peaks and passes of the GKH,
- purple light: for the peaks of the Bezengi region outside the GKH,
- Orange: for peaks and passes in the Adyrsu ridge,
– clear yellow: for peaks and passes in the Adylsu ridge,
- dirty yellow: for peaks and passes in the Yusengi ridge,
– purple dark: for peaks and passes in the Kogutai spur of Donguzorun,
- pale green: for peaks and passes of the South-Eastern spur of Elbrus,
- pale plum: for the peaks and passes of the Elbrus-Azau lintel,
– light brown: for the peaks and passes of the ridge in the upper reaches of the Irik and Irikchat,
- white: for peaks and passes of the Eastern spur of Elbrus,
– blue: for peaks and passes in short spurs of the GKH (apex circles in this case in a red rim), as well as in the spurs of the Adyrsu ridges (apex circles in an orange rim) and Adylsu (apex circles in a yellow rim).

1. MOUNTAINS

Note. The heights of the peaks indicated below in some cases differ from those given by the "Classification of routes to mountain peaks" (hereinafter "Classifier"). These heights are given mainly according to the maps of the General Staff (hereinafter "General Staff") built on the basis of the results of methodically homogeneous measurements within the framework of a unified topographic program of the Soviet era. Altitude data are given by the General Staff with an accuracy of 0.1 meters, but it should, of course, be borne in mind that such an enviable accuracy could only qualify for coverage random errors measurements, and not the systematic errors of the measurement technique itself.

1.1. TOPS IN GEORGIA

1 - Tetnuld, 4853 m
2 - Svetgar, 4117 m
3 - Asmashi, 4082 m
4 - Marianna (Maryanna), 3584 m
5 - Lekzyr (Dzhantugansky), 3890 m
6 - Chatyn Glavny, 4412 m
7 - Ushba North, 4694 m
8 - Ushba South, 4710 m
9 - Cherinda, 3579 m
10 - Dolra, 3832 m
11 - Shtavleri, 3994 m

1.2. TOPS OF THE MAIN CAUCASIAN RIDGE (GKH)

1 - Bezengi wall (details on enlarged panorama fragment)
2 - Gestola, 4860 m
3 - Lyalver, 4366 m
4 - Tichtengen, 4618 m
5 - Bodorku, 4233 m
6 - Bashiltau, 4257 m
7 - Sarykol, 4058 m
8 - Ullutau massif, 4277 m
9 - Latsga, 3976 m
10 - Chegettau, 4049 m
11 - Aristov rocks (3619 m - Kaluga peak)
12 - Dzhantugan, 4012 m
13 - Bashkara, 4162 m
14 - Ullukara, 4302 m
15 - Free Spain, 4200 m
16 - Bzhedukh, 4280 m
17 - Eastern Caucasus, 4163 m
18 - Shchurovsky, 4277 m
19 - Chatyn West, 4347
20 - Ushba Malaya, 4254 m
21 - Eastern Shkhelda, 4368 m
22 - Shkhelda Central, 4238 m
23 - Aristov (Shkhelda 3rd Western), 4229
24 - Shkhelda 2nd Western, 4233 m
25 - Western Shkhelda, 3976 m
26 - Trade unions, 3957 m
27 - Athlete, 3961 m
28 - Shkhelda Malaya, 4012 m
29 - Akhsu, 3916 m
30 - Yusengi Uzlovaya, 3846 m
31 - Gogutai, 3801 m
32 - Donguzorun East, 4442 m
33 - Donguzorun Main, 4454 m
34 - Donguzorun West, 4429 m
35 - Nakratau, 4269 m
36 - Chiper, 3785 m
37 - Chiperazau, 3512 m

Peaks in short spurs of the GKH

1 - Germogenov, 3993 m
2 - Chegetkara, 3667 m
3 - Main Caucasus, 4109 m
4 - Western Caucasus, 4034 m
5 - Donguzorun Small, 3769 m
6 - Cheget, 3461 m

1.3. TOPS OF THE BEZENGI DISTRICT

1 - Dykhtau, 5205 m (5204.7 according to the map of the General Staff, 5204 according to the Classifier and Lyapin's scheme)
2 - Koshtantau, 5152 m (5152.4 according to the map of the General Staff, 5150 according to the Classifier, 5152 according to the Lyapin scheme)
3 - Ulluauz, 4682 m (4681.6 according to the map of the General Staff, 4675 according to the Classifier, 4676 according to the Lyapin scheme)
4 - Thought, 4677 m (4676.6 according to the map of the General Staff, 4557 according to the Classifier, 4681 according to the Lyapin scheme)

1.4. TOPS OF ADYRSU DISTRICT

1 - Adyrsubashi, 4370 m (4346)
2 - Orubashi, 4369 m (4259)
3 - Yunomkara, 4226 m
4 - Kichkidar, 4360 m (4269)
5 - Jailyk, 4533 m (4424)

From the Dzhailik massif, the Adyrsu ridge is divided into two branches:
(a) the northwest branch,
(b) northeast branch.

Peaks of the northwestern branch of the Adyrsu ridge:

6a - Tyutyubashi, 4460 m (4404)
7a - Sullukol, 4259 m (4251)
8а - Steel, 3985 m

Peaks of the northeastern branch of the Adyrsu ridge:

6b - Kenchat, 4142 m
7b - Aurel, 4056 m (4064)
8b - Kayarta, 4082 m (4121)
9b - Kilar, 4000 m (4087)
10b - Sakashil, 4054 m (4149)

Peaks in the spurs of the Adyrsu ridge:

from Adyrsubashi
a - Khimik, 4087 m
b - Moskovsky Komsomolets, 3925 m
s - Triangle, 3830 m

From Jailyk
d - Chegem, 4351 m

From the city of Tyutubashi
e - Cullumkol, 4055 m (4141)
f - Theremin, 3950 m (3921)

From Kilar
g - Adzhikol (Adzhikolbashi, Adzhikolchatbashi), 3848 m (4126).

1.5. TOPS OF ADYLSU DISTRICT

(in parentheses - heights according to the Lyapin scheme, if there is a difference)

1 - Kurmychi, 4045 m
2 - Andyrchi Uzlovaya, 3872 m
3 - Andyrtau (Andyrchi), 3937 m
4 - Mongolian People's Republic (peaks of the Mongolian People's Republic): Northeast 3830 m (3838), Central 3830 m (3849), Southwest 3810 m (3870).

Peaks in the spurs of the Adylsu ridge towards the Adyrsu valley:

1.6. TOPS OF THE YUSENGI RIDGE

1 - Yusengi, 3870 m
2 - Yusengi Severnaya, 3421 m. According to the tradition, apparently dating back to the map of the General Staff, the names of these two peaks are confused with each other

1.7. Peaks of the Kogutai Spur of Donguzorun

1 - Interkosmos, 3731 m
2 - Small Kogutai, 3732 m
3 - Big Kogutai, 3819 m
4 - Baksan, 3545 m
5 - Kahiani (Donguzorungitchechatbashi), 3367 m
6 - Canteen, 3206 m.

1.8 TOPS IN THE LINK BETWEEN GKH AND ELBRUS

1 - Azaubashi, 3695 m
2 - Ullukambashi, 3762 m

1.9 TOPS OF THE SOUTH-EASTERN SPINK OF ELBRUS

1 - Terskol, 3721 m
2 - Terskolak, 3790 m
3 - Sarykolbashi, 3776 m
4 - Artykkaya, 3584 m
5 - Tegeneklibashi, 3502 m

1.10 THE TOP OF THE RIDGE IN THE UPPER REACH OF THE IRIK AND IRIKCHAT GORGONS

1 - Achkeryakolbashi (Askerkolbashi), 3928 m
2 - Red hillock, 3730 m

1.11 TOPS OF THE EASTERN SPINK OF ELBRUS

1 - Irikchat West, 4046 m
2 - Irikchat Central, 4030 m
3 - Irikchat East, 4020 m
4 - Soviet warrior, 4012 m

1.12 TOPS IN THE NORTH-EAST (ON THE SIDE OF THE MUKAL GLACIER)
Shown separately on PANORAMA-3

Islamchat (3680 m)
Shukambashi (3631 m)
Jaurgen (3777 m)
Suaryk (3712 m)
Kyrtyk (3571 m)
Mukal (3899 m)

2. PASSES

1 - Hunaly Yuzh, 2B - connects the valleys of Hunalychat (tributary of Sakashilsu) and Kayarty (l. Kayart)
2 - Kayarta Zap, 2A - between the peaks of Kilar and Adzhikol
3 - Kayarta, 1B - between the peaks of Kayarta and Kilar
4 - Sternberga, 2A - between the peaks of Orel and Kayart
5 - Kilar, 1B - between the peaks of Kenchat and Orelyu
6 - Vodopadny, 1B - in the northern spur of Stal peak
7 - Sullukol, 1B - in the western spur of the peak Stal
8 - Spartakiad, 2A* - between the Tyutubashi massif and the top of the Spartakiad
9 - Kullumkol, 1B - between the Tyutubashi massif and the peak of Kullumkol
10 - Tyutyu-Dzhailik, 3A - between the top of Dzhailik and the Tyutubashi massif
11 - Chegemsky, 2B - in the shoulder of the city of Kichkidar
12 - Kichkidar, 2B - between the peaks of Yunomkara and Kichkidar
13 - Freshfield, 2B - between the peaks of Orubashi and Yunomkara
14 - Golubeva, 2A - between the peaks of Adyrsubashi and Orubashi
15 - Garnet, 1A - in the northern spur of the peak of the Navy
16 - Kurmy, 1A - in the northern spur of the peak of the Navy
17 - Dzhalovchat, 1B - between the peaks of Fizkulturnik and the Navy
18 - Mestiisky, 2A - between the peaks of Ullutau and Sarykol
19 - Churlenisa Vost, 3A * - between Yesenin peak and Gestola shoulder
20 - Svetgar, 3A - between the peaks of Svetgar and Tot
21 - Dzhantugan, 2B - between the top of Dzhantugan and the rocks of Aristov
22 - Marianna, 3A - between the peaks of Marianna and Svetgar
23 - Bashkara, 2B * - between the peaks of Bashkara and Dzhantugan
24 - Pobeda, 3B - between the peaks of Ullukar and Bashkara
25 - Kashkatash, 3A * - between the peak of Free Spain and the top of Ullukar
26 - Double, 3A - between the peak of the Caucasus Vost and the peak of Bzhedukh
27 - Saddle of the Caucasus, 3A - between the peaks of the Caucasus Gl and East
28 - Krenkelya, 3A - between the peaks of the Caucasus Gl and Zap
29 - Chalaat, 3B - between the peaks of Chatyn Zap and M. Ushba
30 - Ushbinsky, 3A - between the arrays of Ushba and Shkheldy
31 - Bivachny, 2B * - between the peaks of Athlete and Trade Unions
32 - Yusengi, 2B - between the peaks of Yusengi and Yusengi North
33 - Medium, 2B - between Malaya Shkhelda peak and Fizkulturnika peak
34 - Rodina, 2A (when moving along the buttress from the side of the Yusengi valley) - between the peaks of Yusengi and Yusengi Uzlovaya
35 - Akhsu, 2A - between the peaks of Yusengi Uzlovaya and Akhsu
36 - Becho, 1B - in the ridge of the GKH between peaks 3506 and 3728, it is also the lowest pass in the GKH section between Donguzorun and the Yusengi ridge and the closest to the top of Yusengi Uzlovaya.
37 - Becho False, 1B - in the ridge of the GKH west of peak 3506 and east of the lane. Olympian
38 - Yusengi Peremetny, 1B - glacial crossing through the short eastern spur of the Gogutai peak
39 - High Dolra, 2A - at the gathering of the GKH from the top of Vost. Donguzorun under Gogutai peak.
40 - Shepherd (Okhotsky), 1A - connects the Yusengi gorge with the upper Kogutayka
41 - Vladimir Korshunov, 1B - between the top of Big Kogutai and Baksan peak
42 - Pearl of Primorye, 1B * - between the peaks of Big and Small Kogutai
43 - Kogutai, 1B - between Interkosmos peak and Maly Kogutai peak
44 - Seven, 3B * - between the peaks of Nakra and Donguzorun West
45 - Donguzorun False, 1B - the pass closest to the top of Nakra (from the west) through the GKH
46 - Donguzorun, 1A - the easiest and lowest pass through the GKH to the west of the peak of Nakra, located west of the Donguzorun False pass.
47 - Suakkalar, 1B * - between the peaks of Artykkaya and Sarykolbashi
48 - Sarykol (conditional name), 1B * - between the peaks of Sarykolbashi and Terskolak
49 - Chiper, 1B * - the pass closest to the top of Chiper through the GKH between the peaks of Chiper and Chiperazau
50 - Chiperazau, 1A - the pass closest to the peak of Chiperazau through the GKH between the peaks of Chiper and Chiperazau
51 - Azau, 1A - between the peaks of Chiperazau and Azaubashi
52 - Khasankoysuryulgen, 1B - between the peaks of Azaubashi and Ullukambashi
53 - Terskolak, 1B - in the ridge under the top of Terskolak to the north of it
54 - Terskol, 1B * - between the top of Terskol and the ice slopes of Elbrus
55 - Assol, 1B - the more southern of the neighboring passes connecting the Irik glacier and a small "internal" glacial cirque between the upper reaches of the Irik and Irikchat gorges
56 - Frezi Grant, 1B - pass in the same summit circus as per. Assol (No. 55), north of it
57 - Irik-Irikchat, 2A - in the ridge between the glaciers Irik and Irikchat south of the top of Achkeryakolbashi
58 - Chat Elbrussky, 1B * - in the ridge between the glaciers Irik and Irikchat ridge to the west of the top of Achkeryakolbashi
59 - Irikchat, 1B * - between the Irikchat glacier and the peak of Chatkara

PASSES IN THE NORTH-EAST, IN THE SIDE OF THE MUKAL GLACIER (without numbering, shown separately on PANORAMA-3):

Mukal-Mkyara, 1B
Mukal-Mkyara false, 3A
Voruta, 1A
Ritenok, 1B
Baumanets, 2A
Khibiny, 1B
Zemprohodtsev, 1B

3. GLACIERS

1 - Kayarta Western (No. 485-b)
2 - Aurel (No. 485-a)
3 - Sullukol (No. 491)
4 - Yunom Severny (No. 487-d)
5 - Yun (No. 487-b)
6 - Nitrogen (No. 492-b)
7 - East Kurmy (No. 498)
8 - Adyrsu East (No. 493rd)
9 - Bashkara (No. 505)
10 - Kashkatash (No. 508)
11 - Bzhedukh (No. 509)
12 – Ushba icefall
13 - Shkheldinsky (No. 511)
14 - Akhsu (No. 511-b)
15 - No. 511-a
16 - Yusengi (No. 514)
17 - No. 515-b
18 - Ozengi (No. 515-a)
19 - No. 517-b
20 - Kogutai East (No. 517-a)
21 - Kogutai Western
22 – № 518
23 – № 519
24 – № 520
25 – № 538
26 - No. 537-b
27 - No. 537-a
28 – № 536
29 - Big Azau (No. 529)
30 – Garabashi
31 – Terskol
32 - Irik (No. 533)
33 – Irikchat
Mukal Glacier - see Additional PANORAMA-3

4. RIVER BASINS (GORKS)

1 - Cullumkol
2 - Sullukol
3 - Vodopadnaya (these three rivers: 1, 2, 3 are the right tributaries of the Adyrsu river)
4 - Shkhelda (Adylsu tributary)
5 - Yusengi
6 - Kogutaika (these two rivers: 5 and 6 are the right tributaries of the Baksan)
7 - Irik
8 - Irikchat (the last two rivers - 7 and 8 - left tributaries of the Baksan)

ENLARGED FRAGMENTS OF THE MAIN PANORAMAS.

a) Tyutyu-Bashi and Dzhailik.

array Tyutyu-Bashi(4460 m) on this fragment of the panorama is turned to us by the western end, so that all five of its peaks are lined up: Western(4350 m), Second Western(4420 m), Central(4430 m), home(4460 m) and Eastern(4400 m). The massif breaks off in the Tyutyu-Su gorge (left in the picture) with the Northern Wall with routes up to category 6A.

To the right of Tyutyu is located Jailyk(4533 m), the highest peak of the Adyrsu ridge and, note, the third highest in the Baksan valley and the Elbrus region, after Elbrus (5642 m) and Ushba (4710 m). On the right, from behind Dzhailik, peeks out Chegem(4351 m), famous for complex rock walls up to category 6A. Near Chegem, they usually drive through the Chegem Gorge, located between the Baksan and Bezengi Gorges parallel to the first.

In the foreground in the center is the Sullukol glacier. On the picture you can also see the Tyutyu-Dzhailik (3A) passes, it is between the peaks of Dzhailik and Tyutyu-Bashi, and Kullumkol (1B), between the peaks of Tyutyu-Bashi and Cullumcol(4055 m), the latter is visible under Dzhailik against its background. All of them are marked on the general panorama.

b) Koshtantau and Dykhtau.

Pictured on the left before us Koshtantau(5152 m), or simply Koshtan. This is the peak of the "technical Caucasus" - the highest mountain in the Caucasus with a route of the sixth category of difficulty, 6A on the left side of the central buttress of the Northern Wall. The route was first climbed in 1961 by a team from Bauman (MVTU, Moscow, leader Arnold Simonik), who dedicated it to the flight of German Titov, "cosmonaut number two". On a slightly higher peak Dykhtau "sixes" are not classified. Traverse Dykhtau-Koshtan was a "six", but at times he was undressed. The Koshtan-Dykh traverse with the ascent to Koshtan along 6A is completely illogical, and there are no "sixes" to the roof of the Caucasus - Elbrus, if not to talk about climbing to the top after passing the Kyukyurtlyu wall - which, you see, is also an illogical option.

From the left to Koshtan along the Northern ridge leads the “British” ridge 4B (G. Vulei, 1889), this is the easiest way to the top. (A peak in the GKH to the north of Shchurovsky Peak is named after Vulei. It is curious that German Vulei - Hermann Wooley, in some sources Woolley - came to mountaineering, already being a football player and boxer). In the lower part of the ridge, a characteristic hump is visible - an ice gendarme. The lower, most difficult part of the route - the ascent from the Mizhirgi glacier to the Northern ridge of Koshtan - is hidden behind the peak Panoramic(4176 m), which is in the spur Ulluauza(4682 m). Approaches to Koshtan from this side are extremely dreary, you have to go through all the steps of the Mizhirga icefall, of which there are three only up to overnight stays "3900", and there is also a zone of cracks located above. The first two steps pass along the moraine and then along the ice, adhering to the left (along the way) side of the glacier, and the third is bypassed along the scree on the left and go to the overnight stays "3900", the highest in the area.

In the foreground of the image is an array Adyrsubashi(4370 m). To the left, to the Golubev pass (2A, 3764 m), the North-Eastern ridge stretches from it with many gendarmes. Climbing Adyrsubashi along this ridge is a very long "five A". The Golubeva pass itself remained to the left of the frame, it is located in a depression between the peaks of Adyrsubashi and Orubashi and connects the upper reaches of the Adyrsu and Chegem, serving faithfully as one of the popular tourist routes.

Adyrsubashi is the nodal peak of the Adyr ridge. Its western spur asserts itself as peaks Chemist(4087 m), Ozernaya(4080 m), Moscow's comsomolets(3925 m) and Triangle(3830 m), behind this peak there is a descent towards the Ullutau alpine camp. Khimik and Ozernaya peaks are two snow humps with rock outcrops, in the picture they are to the left and below Adyrsubashi. From Ozernaya (to the right of Khimik and closer to us) a small Azot glacier flows into the Kullumkol valley (to the left). He received this “chemical” name by the name of the alpine camp, which operated (since 1936) from the eponymous DSO of workers in the chemical industry. In 1939, eight (!) alpine camps operated in the Adyrsu gorge. The fate of "Azot" was the most successful, now it is the alpine camp "Ullutau".

To the north-west of the Ozernaya peak in our direction, bordering the Azot glacier, a spur departs, in which the peak can be traced Panoramic, he is the peak Winter(3466 m), which received such a name in the everyday life of the Ullutau alpine camp as an object of low ascents during the winter shifts of the camp. Another spinal branch of the Ozernaya peak (to the right in the picture) leads to Moskovsky Komsomolets peak, the top of which falls exactly on the right cut of this fragment. Array in the background Mizhirgi with distinguishable Eastern summit (4927 m). Western Mizhirgi(5025 m) and the Second Western Mizhirgi, better known as the peak Borovikov(4888 m), almost indistinguishable in the ridge going from Eastern Mizhirga to Dykhtau.

On the right picture we have an array Dykhtau(5205 m), or simply Dykh. In the foreground near the left section of the fragment is Moskovsky Komsomolets peak, from which the crest of the ridge stretches to the low Triangle peak at the bottom in the center of the frame (both peaks were mentioned above in the comments on Koshtantau). In the distance are two peaks, more often attributed to the Chegem region: a huge Tichtengen(4618 m), standing in the GKH between the peaks of Ortokara and Kitlod, and - a little closer, against its background - the peak facing us with a snowy slope Bodorka(4233 m), also located in the GKH.

c) Bezengi wall.

On this fragment, approximately in profile, the entire Bezengi wall is visible, stretching in an arc from Shkhara to Lyalver. This unconventional angle can puzzle even seasoned experts in the area, it painfully "successfully" merges with the Bezengi wall of Gestol.

On the left of the image you can see the long NE-ridge of the "classical" ascent to Shkhara(5069 m) along 5A - the route of D. Kokkin (J.G. Cockin, 1888). It was first climbed by the British-Swiss troika U. Almer, J. Cockin, C. Roth as part of an expedition of the British Royal Geographical Society led by Douglas Freshfield. The photographer for this and subsequent expeditions in the 1890s was Vitorio Sella, who received the cross of St. Anna from Nicholas II for his photographs of the Caucasus mountains. The glacier and the peak of Sella (4329 m) are named after him, which is on the approach to the peak of Mizhirgi in the upper reaches of the eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier. In terms of technical complexity, Kokkin’s route to Shkhara is unlikely to pull even 2B, but it is dangerous because it relaxes, although there is practically nowhere to reliably insure on a long snowy ridge with cornices in one direction or the other, and there were cases of disruption of entire ligaments. In some sources (for example, A.F. Naumov, "Chegem-Adyrsu") the route is categorized as 4B. The category can be raised to the fifth, wishing to reduce the flow of climbers by cutting off those whom KSS Bezengi officially releases for "fours", but not yet for "five". Kokkin's route - in everyday life "Crab": rock outcrops resemble a crab with claws lowered down. This crab (it is not visible in the panorama) is clearly visible from the Jangi-kosh side in the lower part of the ridge, above the "cushion".

On the ridge you can clearly see the ice gendarme and the Eastern peak of Shkhara. There are no classified routes to it, it is passed almost on foot on the way to the Main Peak of Shkhara. From Eastern Shkhara, the GKH leaves us to the southeast, even closer to the south, and passes through the peak Ushguli(4632 m), also known as the South-Eastern Shkhara. The peak is named after the ancient village of Ushguli. Located in the Svan valley at an altitude of 2200 m, it is considered the highest European settlement of permanent residence (i.e. minus ski resorts and weather stations). There are several "fives" on the top of Ushguli from the Georgian side, as well as an extra-long 2A, the technical simplicity of which is compensated by the length of the approaches: two days from the Bezengi alpine camp in our country or from the Ailama alpine camp in Svaneti.

The most beautiful and logical route to Shkhara is perhaps the "Austrian" 5B Tomashek-Muller (1930) - head-on climb from the Bezengi glacier along the Northern Ridge (in the picture it is on the border of light and shadow). In the days of the Stalinist USSR, there should have been no foreign expeditions in our mountains, however, a small diaspora of Austrian communists found refuge with us in the early 1930s and, judging by the records of its route achievements, did not waste time in vain (look at the Caucasian routes at your leisure of that period with German surnames).

inconspicuous summit Western Shkhara(5057 m) is worthy of mention in that only two routes go to it from the north (Anatoly Blankovsky, 1980 and Yuri Razumov, 1981), and both are very strong and objectively dangerous, rarely visited "sixes". They appeared in the early 1980s, thanks to progress in ice equipment - first of all, the appearance in the USSR of cat-platforms for ice and ice screws (previously they were insured with ice carrot hooks, which had to be hammered into the ice for a long time).

To the right of Western Shkhara, the ridge of the Bezengi wall gradually lowers in the direction of a small rocky peak of Shota Rustaveli peak (4860 m), hidden behind a peak closer to us Gestola(4860 m). Rustaveli Peak was first climbed by Georgians in 1937, from the south along route 4A. AT recent times it is often visited from the north, because the comparatively safe "Laletin's board" - a monotonous ice route, climbed in 1983 by A.Laletin's team from St. In the intramural class of the 1995 Russian Alpinism Championship, the deuces leaving at night managed to jump this route to the very top by 10 o'clock in the morning!

Even more to the left in the panorama, the Dzhangi-Tau massif is visible half-turned: Dzhangi Eastern(5038 m), home(5058 m) and Western(5054 m). The route to the East Dzhangi along the NE ridge is the easiest on the Bezengi Wall, only the routes to the extreme mountains of the Wall, Shkhara (technically easy 5A) and Gestola (4A with a climb through peak 4310) are easier. In addition, the NE ridge (buttress) of Eastern Dzhangi is objectively the least dangerous option for climbing the Wall from the north, and it is often used as a descent route after ascending the Dzhangi massif (including the Main Dzhangi), Western Shkhara or Rustaveli Peak. Eastern Dzhangi, like Shkhara, was printed in 1888 by Kokkin's group.

To get the "Star of Bezengi" badge, it is not necessary to climb the Main Dzhangi (the only route to it from the north is dangerous with ice collapses 5A), any Dzhanga peak is enough - first of all, the simpler and safer East. There are no classified routes to Western Dzhangi from the north yet (except perhaps within the traverse of the Wall), and they are unlikely to appear soon: a beautiful and logical line to this peak is not visible from this side, but objectively dangerous ice faults are visible. But from the Georgian side to the Western Dzhangi, two 5Bs are classified. I wonder when was the last time they went? ..

Approximately the same ice "gardens" looks from the north and Katyn(4974 m), from which the huge and flat Katyn plateau extends to Gestola. Katyn was also climbed for the first time in 1888 by members of a British expedition, but the simplest route to it from the north - 4B hp (G.Holder, 1888) - is objectively more dangerous and less beautiful than the northeast ridge of the Dzhangi of the same category of difficulty.

The GKH line runs along the edge of the Bezengi wall through the massifs of Shkhara and Dzhangi, Katyn, Gestola and Lyalver, and a long ridge, leaving Gestola to the southwest (in the picture to the right) and partially hiding the Katyn plateau, leads to the peak located in Georgia Tetnuld(4853 m). It is not visible on this fragment of the panorama (it is to the right), but it is on the general panorama. In the 1990s, Georgians brought a metal cross with a characteristic shape, like on the Georgian flag, to the top of Tetnuld. The easiest way to Gestola(4860 m) from the north - this is 3B through the peak Lalver(4350 m), with an ascent to Lyalver along a technically simple 2B and then a simple traverse through peak 4310 and the shoulder of Gestola. This route (completed for the first time already in 1903) is categorized as 3B, perhaps solely for its height and length. There is an option to shorten this Chinese campaign - to cut off the path to peak 4310 by climbing it not through Lyalver, but head-on from the western branch of the Bezengi glacier. This variant of the route to Gestola is categorized as 4A (A. Germogenov, 1932), although there are no technical difficulties on it even on 3A (carefully in the upper part - destroyed rocks).

The story with the name pichka in the crest of the Bezengi wall to the west of the shoulder of Gestola is quite confusing. This slight ridge rise previously “passed” as peak 4310 or Peak Nameless. The latter name haunted renaming activists, and in the 1990s, two signs were erected on this peak in the neighborhood, one in affirmation Yesenin peak, the other - peak of the 50th anniversary of the CBD. The "anniversary" version of the name, it seems, sounded more weighty than the poetic impulse of Yesenin's admirers, because the sign "50 years of the KBR" was the result of a mass ascent along 2B through Lyalver with the support of the authorities from Nalchik. But in technical descriptions, this tip, as a rule, is still passed as "4310". It is clearer: whatever you call it, the height will not change :)

Peak 4310 separates two passes in the Bezengi wall, Chiurlionis East and West. On the enlarged fragment of the panorama, Čiurlionis Vostochny is indicated, it is between peak 4310 and the shoulder of Gestola. Vertex Bashille(4257 m) - in the picture against the background of Lyalver - is located to the west of the Bezengi region and already belongs to the Chegem Gorge region.

A few words about the height of the peaks of the Bezengi wall and her highest point.

All sources agree that Shkhara is the highest point of the Wall. But they determine the heights of the Bezengi peaks in different ways. So, for Shkhara Glavnaya one can meet not only the traditional value of 5068 m, but also the more "prestigious" 5203 m, and for Dzhanga Glavnaya - values ​​of 5085, 5074 and 5058 m (Lyapin's map). We rely on the data of the General Staff as more homogeneous (at least within a single area) and for the highest points Shkhara and Dzhangi take the values, respectively, 5069 m(5068.8 according to the General Staff) and 5058 m. Direct visual assessments also favor Shkhara. When looking at the Bezengi wall from the Northern massif, as well as when looking at Shkhara from Dzhangi (and vice versa), Shkhara always gives the impression of the dominant peak of the Wall.

Finally, oh curvature of the "arc" of the Bezegi Wall visible in the picture. The visual impression of its large curvature in the Shkhara - Gestola section is illusory, this is a pure effect high magnification a picture in which the image of a cluster of distant objects is stretched in azimuth, but not moved apart in depth. So it seems that the slender comb visible from the end wags its sides. In relation to this image: if we convert the VISIBLE angular distance between Shkhara Glavnaya and Katyn (or Dzhangi Zapadnaya) into kilometers, then it will turn out to be six times (!) LESS than the real distance from Shkhara Glavnaya to Gestola, but it seems that they are approximately the same.

d) the mountains of Svaneti and the Dzhantugan pass.

The main characters of this fragment are the dominant Svetgar(4117 m) and, to the right, a modest Marianne(3584 m), a bunch-two completing the Svetgar ridge stretching from the east (on the left). In the soft evening light of the sun, their rocky slopes amaze with a variety of color shades. Peaks lined up behind Marianne Asmashi Ridge, which are identified very uncertainly at this end angle. This entire mountain complex would be of great interest to mountain tourists and climbers, if it were open for visiting from the Russian side. Suffice it to say that most of the passes in the region - Asmashi, Marianna, Svetgar, Tot - are category 3A.

A few words about the Dzhantugan plateau and the Dzhantugan pass (3483 m, tourist 2B), which dominate the middle plan of the fragment. The Dzhantugan Plateau is one of the western branches of the huge Lekzyr (Lekziri) glacial complex, the largest on the southern side of the GKH. It is formed by a system of glaciers framing the GKH in the area from the Kashkatash pass in the west to the Bashiltau peak area in the upper reaches of the Chegem Gorge in the east. These glaciers adjoin the passes connecting the regions of Adylsu, Adyrsu and Chegem with Svaneti. The Dzhantugan plateau resembles an apple rotten from the inside: its entire inside is broken by wide bottomless cracks, and only the narrow outer rim is edible. Any reasonable movements on the line Lekzyr - Bashkara - Dzhantugan - Aristov rocks - Gumachi - Chegettau - Latsga are possible only near the slopes of these peaks.

The glacier on the rise to the Dzhantugan pass is severely torn, but in last years there is a way to simply bypass the bergs and cracks, leading to the pass close to the end slope of the Aristov rocks (red spots in the picture). The pass itself is somewhat puzzling: you do not see a clear inflection in any direction, everything is flat, and only after passing 50-70 meters to the south and burying yourself in faults, you understand that a general decline has begun towards Georgia. (At the same time, the red-white border stick sticks out only twenty meters above the cliff to our northern side.) Near the top of Gumachi there is another pass leading to the plateau - East Dzhantugan, aka False Gumachi (3580 m, tourist 2B) . Climbing it from the side of the Adyl-su gorge is no more difficult than 1B, but to descend from it to Svaneti (along the tricky icefall, which determines the category of both passes), you have to bypass the plateau on the right and, therefore, follow the Dzhantugan pass. So for routes from Adyl-su to Svaneti, that one is clearly preferable. There is another option of climbing to the Dzhantugan plateau in the middle between these two passes, through the central depression in the chain of Aristov rocks.

Aristov rocks named in memory of Oleg Dmitrievich Aristov, who stood at the origins of Soviet mountaineering. In 1935, his group was one of the first to "hill" the peaks above the Dzhantugan plateau along the simplest paths and made several first ascents - Dzhantugan along 2A, Gadyl along 3A, Gadyl-Bashkar traverse (4A). That summer, the 1st All-Union Alpiniad of Trade Unions worked in the Adyl-Su Gorge, and 24-year-old Aristov led the School of Instructors there. Oleg died at the peak of Communism on September 13, 1937. He was appointed head of the assault group, which had the order to bring the bust of Stalin to Communism Peak (then - Stalin Peak). Oleg was walking with frostbitten feet and slipped, falling off at the very top.

The ascent to the Dzhantugan plateau from the side of Adyl-Su passes along the Dzhankuat glacier, which was chosen by glaciologists to study the processes occurring in valley glaciers. The thickness of this typical valley glacier is 40-50 meters in icefalls and 70-100 meters in flattened areas. Like other glaciers of the Caucasus, Dzhankuat in recent decades recedes quickly. At its tip, in a clearing with a seductive name with a seductive name "Green Hotel" - the houses of the Glaciological Station of Moscow State University. In early June, a backcountry camp is sometimes arranged here, aimed at beginners and advanced riders. In the summer there are students at the station. In winter, it is convenient to use the houses for lodging for the night, they save from the winds from the side of the pass, which build up agility when descending into the wide flat part of the gorge below the Dzhankuat glacier.

From the Dzhantugan plateau it is convenient to make radial ascents to the surrounding peaks. AT eastbound they are simple - to the top Gumachi(3826 m) along 1B (on foot) and Chegettau(4049 m) along 2B. This deuce-B is the oldest route of the region and the entire Elbrus region (excluding Elbrus itself) - Douglas Freshfield, 1888. AT westbound from the Dzhantugan plateau, it is convenient to climb Dzhantugan along 2A and 3A, as well as Bashkara along 3B, Gadyl along 3A and Lekzyr Dzhantugansky (1B).

Peak Jantugan(4012 m) at the right edge of the panorama fragment, a beautiful and simple route 2A leads to it from the pass. Dzhan is facing us here with its northern side, on which three triples-B are classified, one of them (along the NE edge) is clearly visible - this is the edge that casts a shadow. Bypassing the peak from the side of the plateau, you can climb the jumper between it and its western neighbor, the peak of Bashkar. Route 3A to Dzhan begins near this jumper (along the SW ridge), and a beautiful ridge route 3B leads to Bashkara.

The Bashkara-Gadyl massif borders the Dzhantugan plateau from the west. From the plateau it is clearly seen that the peaks Bashkara(4162 m) and Gadyl(4120 m) - the ends of one massif. It is simply turned to Svanetia with the “Gadyl” side, and to Balkaria with the “Bashkar”, which is why it received different names from the corresponding observers. The Bashkara-Gadyl traverse (4A) is one of the oldest routes in the region (K. Egger, 1914). In the panoramic image from Kezgen, the peak of Gadyl is not visible, it is covered by Bashkara, which in all its severity is presented on an enlarged fragment (photo on the left). Bashkara breaks off towards the glacier of the same name with its northern wall, along which two routes 6A pass, technically the most difficult in Adyl-Su. The snow "cushion" to the right of Bashkara is the Pobeda pass, one of the most difficult in the region (3B according to the tourist classification). The Bashkara Pass, which is between Bashkara and Dzhantugan, is much easier. From the northern slopes of Bashkara, the Bashkara glacier descends, from the melting of which Bashkara Lake was formed, threatening to break through and mudflow down the Adylsu gorge.

e) from the Kashkatash pass to Ushba.

The same section with designations of peaks, passes and glaciers.

(Recall that the peaks of the GKH are marked with solid red circles, the passes of the GKH are marked with red crosses).

From left to right:

Pinnacle 14 - Ullukara(4302 m), located in the GKH, breaks off with a wall of complexity 5B to the upper reaches of the Kashkatash glacier.
Peak 1 against the backdrop of Ullukara - peak Germogenova(3993 m) in the spur of Ullukara. From the side of the middle course of the Kashkatash glacier, a ridge stretches to the top, along which route 2B passes - one of the longest "twos B" in the region (along with the "two B" to East Donguzorun along the GKH ridge). Groups of beginners usually go this route with an overnight stay.
Pass 25 - Kashkatash, 3A * - located in the GKH between the peaks of Ullukara and Free Spain.
Glacier 10 - Kashkatash glacier, belonging to the Adylsu basin, the tributary flows opposite the lower houses of the Dzhantugan alpine camp.
Pinnacle 15 - peak Free Spain(4200 m), located in the GKH. The route to the summit along the eastern ridge from the pass is category 4A. Ice route 4B along the wall to the left of the rock tower (Aleksey Osipov et al., 1995) is recommended as a winter option, it is dangerous for rocks in the warm season. Several "five Bs" have been laid along the rock tower. The rocky gendarme in the eastern ridge is sometimes called Gogol Peak, and the gendarme in the western ridge is called Lermontov Peak (I remember Yesenin Peak, mentioned in the description of Bezengi near Lyalver Peak). In climbing terms, these are still gendarmes, they do not lead independent routes, but topologically, “Lermontov’s gendarme” - whatever one may say, this is the nodal peak of the GKH. The Dollakora ridge branches off from it, which leads south to Svaneti and separates the Lekzyr and Chalaat glaciers there.
Pinnacle 16 - Bzhedukh(4270 m), located in the GKH. The snowy slopes of the bridge between the peaks of Free Spain and Bzheduha represent the simplest, but dangerous landslide route of descent from Free Spain, commonly referred to as the "Trough".
Glacier 11 - Bzhedukh, belongs to the Shkhelda basin.
Pass 26 - Double, 3A - is located in the GKH between the peak of the Caucasus East and the peak of Bzhedukh.
Pinnacle 17 - peak Caucasus East(4163 m), the key peak of the GKH. Here the Main Range turns away from us, to the peaks of Vuleya and Shchurovsky, and the rest of the peaks of the Caucasus are already in its spur, which descends into the Shkhelda valley.
Pass 27 - Saddle of the Caucasus, 3A - is located in the spur of the GKH between the peaks of the Caucasus Main and East.
Pinnacle 3 - peak Caucasian Western, located in a spur of the GKH.
Pass 28 - Krenkelya, 3A - is located in the spur of the GKH between the peaks of the Caucasus Western and Main.
Pinnacle 4 - peak Caucasian Chief(4037 m), located in the spur of the GKH.

From Western Chatyn to Svaneti, a short but powerful spur with the top of Chatyn Glavny protrudes. It separates two branches of the Chalaat glacier, breaking off on the Chatyn plateau - the southern circus of the main, eastern branch of the glacier - with its famous Northern wall with solid "sixes". Approach from Russia to the Chatyn Plateau under the routes to the Northern Face of Chatyn - up the Shkhelda Gorge through the Chatyn South Pass, aka Chatyn False (2B). (For more on this pass, see Catalog passes and peaks of Oleg Fomichev, a link to him at the end of the article among other useful links.) From Georgia, it is difficult to enter the Chatyn plateau without a very strong desire, for this you need to either cross the additional Dalla-Kora pass in the southern spurs of the GKH, or go up through the difficult icefalls of the Chalaat glacier, which is extremely problematic even with equipment.

Near Malaya Ushba, an even more impressive short spur with the pearl of the Caucasus - the Ushba massif and its peaks extends from the GKH to Svaneti Northern Ushba(4694 m) and South Ushba(4710 m).

The main passes of the GKH in this junction are:
Pass 29 - Chalaat, 3B - between the peaks of Chatyn Zapadny and Malaya Ushba, the pass of Academician Aleksandrov is projected onto the same pass, 3B - between Chatyn and Shchurovsky peak
Pass 30 - Ushbinsky, 3A - between the massifs of Ushba and Shkheldy.

f) Shkhelda array.

Peak Heights Shkhelda massif(from left to right):

Eastern- 4368 m
Central- 4238 m
peak Aristova- 4229 m
peak The science- 4159 m
2nd Western- 4231 m
Western- 3976 m

By the way, in 1974 the titanic traverse of Shkhelda (all peaks) - Ushba - Mazeri (G. Agranovsky, A. Vezner, V. Gritsenko and Yu. Ustinov, 14.07-5.08 1974) was passed. The obligatory set of traverses of all peaks of Shkhelda includes five of the six named above: Shkhelda Western falls out, located on the far periphery, in the isthmus already on the outskirts of the Trade Unions peak.
The remaining peaks of the Shkhelda massif are considered gendarmes. Particularly stands out the gendarme Rooster - a tall rocky phallus next to the Eastern Tower of Shkhelda.

g) area of ​​Malaya Shkhelda.

Not particularly noticeable, but interesting in its topology and rich in surrounding views of the mountain knot around Malaya Shkhelda(4012 m). GKH enters the frame on the left from the side of the peak adjacent to Shkhelda trade unions(3957 m) and, moving with a slight southern roll to the west through the lowering of the Bivachny pass (3820 m, 2B *), climbs the peak Athlete(3961 m, not to be confused with the peak Athlete's Day, which is in the Adyl-Su ridge), turns 90 degrees from it and by the northwestern course, bypassing the Sredny pass (3910 m), rises to the top of M. Shkhelda, the highest point of the region. Further, almost without changing course, the GKH passes along the double rocky ridge Akhsu (3916 m), which is visible from the edge from Kezgen and appears to be an end snow slope with an easily recognizable berg at the base. Going down this slope (route 2A), the GKH turns due west and, slipping through the lane. Akhsu (2A, 3764 m), climbs a low and quite easy peak when approaching from any direction Yusengi Nodal(3846 m). Here the GKH says goodbye to us and goes beyond the right cut of the frame towards the Becho pass, and in the northeast direction (to the left and towards us) the Yusengi ridge departs from Uzlovaya. For more than a kilometer, it leads along a wide and flawlessly even snow ridge (the summit exit of the Akhsu glacier), while imperceptibly slips through the area of ​​​​the Rodina pass (2A, 3805 m) and reaches its highest point at the top Yusengi(3870). Then it descends in a long course into the Baksan valley (in the picture along the ridge in our direction).

Both peaks of Yusengi and the Rodina pass give gorgeous views towards Elbrus and Donguz, no other observation point will give you a larger view of the Elbrus-Donguz expanse. The top of the Malaya Shkhelda is an excellent viewpoint of the entire adjacent Georgian sector, and the Fizkulturnik peak gives an amazing close view of the Shkhelda-Ushba-Mazeri link and the Ushba glacier in the pit between them.

Ascent on foot to the peak Athlete from the lane. Medium - a matter of 6-8 minutes. Climbing from there to the top of Malaya Shkhelda - opposite 2A along the old fragile rocks. The rocky traverse M. Shkhelda - Akhsu is already classified as 2B, and the longer traverse in the other direction - M. Shkhelda - Fizkulturnik peak - Profsoyuzov peak - as 3A.

The peaks indicated in the picture form a chain above the cirque of the Akhsu glacier, open (not covered by moraine sediments) along its entire course from the source to the place where it flows into the Shkhelda glacier. There is no more extended section of the open glacier in the gorges from Adyrsu to Azau.

h) Donguzorun and Nakra array.

Nevertheless, it would be a great injustice - and a factual mistake - to consider Nakru not an independent peak, but just a side appendage of Donguz. The fact is that it is to her, and not to the dominant neighbor, from the south that adjoins ridge Tsalgmyl, which is very long in itself and to which, like a rod, numerous side spurs are attached, filling the vast space surrounded by the Inguri River (from the south) and its primary tributaries Nakra (from the west) and Dolroy (from the east). Only a small inner region was subjugated by Donguzorun - the one that occupies a modest and short Dolra Range, sheltered three kilometers to the GKH and adjacent to the Main peak of Donguz.

The topology of the Donguzorun-Nakra array is interesting. There is a general long and monotonous gentle ascent from the southern, Georgian side, where the multi-branched Kvish glacier freely spreads (and from where the routes of G. Merzbacher, 1891 and R. Gelbling, 1903, were laid to the peaks of Donguz at the turn of the 19-20 centuries - both 2A ), and then, upon reaching the border ridge line, everything abruptly breaks down, into Russia, by the eastern and northern walls of the massif, glorious for their difficult climbing routes (categories from 4B to 5B). And right behind the dumping of the eastern and northern walls of Donguz - greenery and the Cheget-Terskol charms of civilization.

In connection with such an extraordinary topology in the winter of 1989, the following story happened on Donguz. As part of the mountaineering championship on the Northern Face of Donguzorun (strong route 5B Khergiani), a deuce climbed from Kyiv, but soon after reaching the top they did not get in touch and disappeared. They didn’t have any food (they dropped it on the rise). Winter, February, frost, bad weather. We found them only on the 8th day ... at the Minvod airport (!). .

i) Elbrus.

On the northern (right to the viewer) slope of Elbrus, two spots of rocky outcrops are visible against the sky - approximately at 4600 and 5100 m. The upper ones are Lenz rocks, so named in honor of the expedition member General Emmanuel who reached them: "..One of the academicians - Mr. Lenz - climbed to a height of 15200 feet. The full height of Elbrus above the level Atlantic Ocean defined as 16,800 feet"(quoted). Each of these altitude values ​​was obtained with more than a 10% error, but their ratio suffers from errors much less and, with reference to the currently accepted height of Elbrus (5642 m), allows us to estimate the height of the rocks reached by Lenz as 5100 m. So, we are talking about the upper rock outcrops.

A few words about the historical route of Douglas Freshfield to the Eastern peak of Elbrus (1868). The mountain peak route classifier leads Freshfield through Priyut-11, but he took a different route (described in detail in his bestselling book Exploration of the Central Caucasus). The group left the village of Urusbievs (Upper Baksan) and the first day on horseback moved along the Baksan valley, and the second day they climbed up the Terskol gorge, from where the dome of Elbrus first appeared, and reached the bivouac area near the Ice Base. The group reached the top at 3 o'clock in the morning. Stepping on the glacier, she went in bundles in a straight line to the cone and first reached a height from which the spurs opened towards the distant steppe, and then, already at the beginning of the ascent along the cone, she met the sun. By half past seven, at an altitude of 4800 m, the group reached the rocks of the upper part of the cone and at 10h40m reached the summit in the area of ​​the current obelisk.

“This peak was at the end of a horseshoe-shaped ridge crowned with three elevations and framing a snowy plateau on three sides, open to the east. We walked—or rather, ran—up the ridge to the very end, passing two significant drops and visiting all three peaks. … [At the same time] we naturally looked out to see if there was a second peak somewhere, but it was nowhere to be found. It seemed to us that the western slope abruptly breaks down to Karachay and that there were no dense clouds that could hide a peak approximately the same height as ours. But we were wrong: the western, slightly higher peak was completely hidden by haze ... It must be remembered that before this ascent we had never seen Elbrus and, therefore, had only a vague idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure of the mountain.

Routes are routes, but in the case of Elbrus one cannot keep silent about his own biography. Why is it that the Main Caucasian Range seems to be the main one, and its iconic peaks - Elbrus and Kazbek - are somewhere on the side? Because they are volcanoes. In the Greater Caucasus, volcanism is associated with the fragmentation of the earth's crust at a late stage of mountain building. The Elbrus volcano was formed in the Bokovoy ridge on the watershed of the Malka, Baksan and Kuban rivers, and it is confined to the intersection of the longitudinal Tyrnyauz fault zone and the transverse Elbrus fault. In the southwestern part of the mountain, the remains of an ancient crater have been preserved in the form of rocks of Khotutau-Azau. Now the two-headed volcano is planted on the upper part of the ancient crater - a highly raised pedestal (base) made of ancient rocks of granites and crystalline schists.

Elbrus as a volcano was born about 2 million years ago. All the mountains of this region then rose as low hills, and powerful eruptions of magma rich in gases formed first volcanic cone(its remnants in the area of ​​the Irikchat pass). After many hundreds of thousands of years the volcano is working again- almost a kilometer-long cliff speaks of its power Kyukurtlu. On the section of this wall, one can clearly see how layers of volcanic bombs, slag, tuffs and ashes alternate with frozen lava flows. Explosive eruptions and outpourings of thick and viscous lavas alternated many times, and when the volcano began to subside, hot gases and solutions still penetrated through the thickness of volcanic rocks for a long time. Due to this, layers of sulfur were formed, which are now turning yellow against the dark red background of the Kyukurtlu cliffs.
Now the wall routes to Kyukyurtly are considered one of the most difficult in the Caucasus.

Third phase of activity volcano, about 200 thousand years ago, was restrained. Outpourings of lava descended into the Baksan valley over and over again. The slowly cooling lava shrank in volume and cracked, and wonderful columnar structures formed in it, which we see on the walls rising above the road from the village. Terskol to the observatory, as well as forming the left side of the gloomy Azau gorge.

Fourth phase of activity volcano - 60-70 thousand years ago - was extremely stormy. The explosions knocked out a cork of frozen ancient rocks from the vent of the volcano, and the volcanic material spread for tens of kilometers (discovered near Tyrnyauz, in the Chegem Valley). At this time formed western peak Elbrus. The eruptions formed a loose stratum of volcanic bombs, tuffs, and other products, mainly on the western and northern slopes. When the energy of the volcano decreased, outpourings of lavas began - now to the upper reaches of the ancient Malka valley, and not to Baksan.

Elbrus area from space - on Google maps.Maps:

Topology of the Western and Eastern peaks of Elbrus close-up.
The highest point of the Eastern Peak is visible, located in the southern part of the summit dome. Being on the East Peak, it is not always obvious where the highest point is...

The Kezgen campaign of 2007, in which photographic materials for PANORAMA-1 were obtained, is described in the 2nd part of Igor Pasha's article .. The photographic materials themselves are also presented there, in a much larger volume ..

We also give a number of basic links on the topic of the publication:

http://caucatalog.narod.ru- Base of passes, peaks, valleys, glaciers and other objects of the Caucasus with photographs (more than 2200 objects and 7400 photographs as of January 2010), reports on mountain trips. The author of the site caucatalog is Mikhail Golubev (Moscow).

The authors will be grateful for constructive comments, indication of factual inaccuracies and additional information provided. All this will be taken into account with gratitude when updating the article!

The emergence of mountains on the site of geosynclines is the basic law of mountain building, which is confirmed by the study of any mountainous country.

To be convinced of this, we will make another trip to the Caucasus: we will cross the Main Caucasian Range.

The roads - Military Georgian, Military Ossetian and Military Sukhumi - were laid through the Main Caucasian Range. They can be ridden on horseback or on foot. For a geologist, the pedestrian method of transportation is, of course, the most suitable: he can stop where he wants and inspect everything that interests him along the way.

You can go hiking along the Georgian Military Highway from the city of Ordzhonikidze to Tbilisi.

Ordzhonikidze offers a beautiful view of the Caucasus Range, especially in the morning, when the mountains are not yet covered by clouds, which usually envelop the peaks by noon. Behind the green ridges of the front ranges, huge masses covered with eternal snows rise high to the blue sky.

Among the jagged ridges with bizarre outlines, the snow-white domes of the two giants of the Caucasus, the extinct volcanoes of Elbrus and Kazbek, shine above all. If the mountains of the old Urals give the impression of ancient ruins, fragments of their former grandeur, then when you see the sparkling peaks of the Caucasus, you feel the full power of those forces that raised these mighty ridges far beyond the clouds. It seems that they are eternal and unshakable.

Huge bare walls and cliffs continuously stretch along the banks of the river valley. Terek, deeply cut into the foothills and the northern slope of the Main Caucasian Range. As in the Urals, as you move towards the watershed, you will see more and more ancient layers of sedimentary rocks in the cliffs, crumpled into mighty folds. However, the age of all these breeds is much younger than in the Urals. These are deposits of the tertiary system, represented by sandstones, clays and various clastic rocks. They stretch in a wide strip along the margin of the northern slope of the Caucasus, as can be seen on the geological map (see below). In the Tertiary sediments of the northern slope of the Caucasus, near the Grozny, Maikop and in some other places there are oil deposits.

Tertiary deposits are replaced by marine rocks that formed earlier, in the Mesozoic era (in the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods). Among the latter, the most ancient are clay shales deposited at the beginning jurassic. They protrude for a long distance along the Georgian Military Highway to the Darial Gorge and are crumpled into numerous steep folds. Near the village of Lapc, these layers have been converted into dense roofing or slate schists, which are mined here for construction purposes. Among the shales there are covers of ancient lavas and layers of volcanic tuffs, indicating that in the Jurassic period, volcanic eruptions occurred in the sea at the site of the Caucasus.

The grandiose and gloomy Darial Gorge was dug by the Terek in an array of ancient granites. Sheer granite walls rise here to a height of 1400 m. Above them lie Jurassic quartzites and shales that cover them, forming here a huge anticline fold.

In its core, the most ancient granites of the Caucasus Range protrude, formed long before the Jurassic period.

After crossing the ancient granites of the Darial Gorge, we again enter the area of ​​Jurassic deposits and approach the interesting young volcanic area of ​​Mount Kazbek. This mighty volcano is, as it were, planted on the Caucasian ridge. It is not active at the present time, but its last eruptions occurred recently, at the end of the Ice Age. Lava flows descending from Kazbek reach the Terek valley and the Georgian Military Highway. The first stream that you will meet descended into the Terek valley, blocked its channel and forced the river to deviate to the east and dig a new channel for itself. The dark gray and red lavas of another stream flowing down from Kazbek are being developed for the needs of chemical plants. Cast acid-resistant stones are made from them.

From the village of Kazbek, a beautiful view of the majestic extinct volcano Kazbek opens up. From here you can climb the glaciers and the snowy peak of Kazbek and admire the flowering alpine meadows along the way.

Kazbek is not the only volcano in this part of the Caucasus. Having passed it, the Georgian Military Road passes at the foot of the Kabardzhin volcano, the multiple eruptions of which are evidenced by lava flows of various compositions, and even further into the Terek valley a powerful lava flow of the Khurisor volcano descends.

After the village of Kobi, the road leaves the Terek valley and rises to the Cross Pass along a gorge dug in light Jurassic limestones and marls. On the slopes of the valley one can see thick strata of calcareous tuff deposited by numerous carbonic calcareous springs. The carbonic acid seems to come from that volcanic chamber from which the lava has recently erupted.

From the Cross Pass to the villages of Mleti and Pasanaur, the road continues to cross an area consisting of Jurassic sediments, crumpled into folds, overturned to the south. Thus, the entire central part of the Main Caucasian Range and the region of the pass consist of Jurassic rocks. This can be clearly seen on the geological map.

Let's continue our journey.

If you go from Gudauri down the valley of the White Aragvi, you can see a powerful flow of basalt lava descending to the north. Along a steep, steep cliff of the stream on the left bank of the river, the road descends for 200 m into the Aragvi gorge. This is the famous Mljetsky descent, the loops of which are partly carved into the rocks, partly laid on high retaining walls. Going down the road, you can see beautiful outcrops of basalt lavas on the slopes. They are witnesses of recent volcanism in the central part of the Main Caucasian Range, which has now ceased. With further inevitable destruction of the ridge, the volcanic cones and their lava flows will be destroyed and no trace of them will be preserved, just as there are no traces of Permian volcanoes, which probably existed in the Urals during the period of its rise.

At 2.5 km from the village of Pasanaur, where the White Aragvi turns sharply to the south, the road, laid along its valley for 18 km, crosses the deposits Cretaceous- dark shales interbedded with calcareous sandstones.

Behind the band of Cretaceous deposits, tertiary deposits appear, reaching considerable thickness here. The structure of this area is very complex. Tertiary deposits stretch along the entire southern slope of the Main Caucasian Range and, like the deposits of the northern slope, consist of thick strata of clastic rocks. Like the northern slope Tertiary sediments we saw earlier, they contain oil. Its especially rich deposits are located in the southeastern end of the Caucasus Mountains on the Absheron peninsula, in the region of Baku.

Geological map of the USSR (click to enlarge)

Let us sum up some results of the observations made during the campaign along the Georgian Military Highway.

As we walked from the city of Ordzhonikidze to the Darial Gorge, we encountered more and more ancient rocks, ranging from deposits of the late Tertiary period to the ancient Jurassic layers and protruding ancient granites. On the way from the Darial Gorge and the Cross Pass, a reverse sequence of deposits was observed: the Old Jurassic layers were replaced by younger Jurassic deposits, then Cretaceous and finally Tertiary rocks. Consequently, the Main Caucasian Range is a huge anticline, in the core of which the most ancient rocks protrude, and on the wings - more and more young ones. The anticline structure of the Caucasus is very clearly visible on the geological map.

If you find an error, please highlight a piece of text and click Ctrl+Enter.