What to do on cabbage pests. Folk remedies in the fight against cabbage pests

Not all farmers can get a generous harvest of cabbage, as the crop is subject to attacks by merciless pests. They greedily eat tender foliage, and often completely destroy a young plant. How to grow cabbage without insect damage? A description of the most dangerous pests of cabbage with a photo and the fight against them will help farmers cope with such troubles.

Aphid- This is a fairly common and serious problem. The insect loves to suck the juice of the plant, depriving it of food. As a result, heads of cabbage look ugly, lose their presentation and nutritional value. When attacked by aphids, the vegetable grower will notice damaged and twisted foliage, which unnaturally changed its color, as shown in the photo.

For plantings, the danger is larvae and adult insects. Females are found in 2 species. It can be white, wingless insects or winged, brown in color. They easily migrate from garden to garden, lay eggs and infect new, succulent plants.

According to reviews experienced farmers when attacked by aphids, the crop becomes more scarce than expected. The reason is that the insect drains the strength of the plant, it cannot develop properly and form a large head. Therefore, even if aphids are not detected during regular inspection, it is worth taking time for prevention. To this end, the following activities are carried out:

1. In autumn, all plant residues are collected for destruction.
2. It is worth eradicating all wild cultures from the cruciferous family from the site.
3. Spraying plantings with garlic infusion repels aphids.

Pictured is a cabbage fly and its larvae

However, timely prevention does not provide 100% protection. farmers tend to inspect their cabbages regularly for aphids. If individuals are found, you need to start an active struggle for the harvest. Leaves can be wiped with a soft cloth dipped in soapy water. However, with large plantations, this simple procedure is not possible. In this case, spraying is the only right solution. Preparations "Iskra", "Decis" or "Karbofos" have proven their effectiveness.

cruciferous flea- another uninvited guest in the cabbage beds. Insects are so voracious that in just a few days they can destroy the farmer's many days of work. Effective will help destroy them pretty quickly.

Cabbage pests: leaf beetle, cabbage fly

cabbage fly- a flying insect appearance resembles an ordinary fly, but its body size is more compact and is about 5 mm. The fly starts pest activity from May, when it starts laying eggs. Laying is carried out directly into the ground, in close proximity to cabbage seedlings. After about 10 days, the eggs hatch into voracious larvae that feed on the tender roots.

It is not difficult to determine the defeat of a plant with a cabbage fly. The plant begins to lag behind in growth, looks lethargic. As the root system is destroyed, the symptoms of the lesion become more obvious. Initially, the lower leaves acquire a lead color, and after a few days the plant dies completely.

In the photo there is a cabbage leaf beetle and its larva

Noticing something was wrong, you need to water the beds with a solution of Thiophos or spray the cabbage with dust. From folk methods, watering the soil next to the bushes with vinegar essence at the rate of 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water helps. It is quite effective to sprinkle the aisles with tobacco dust, naphthalene, mustard, hot pepper.

cabbage leavesd- a small green bug, which itself is not dangerous for the plant. However, he lays eggs, from which larvae hatch, willingly eating cabbage. As a result, the farmer discovers the appearance of characteristic lesions on the leaves, as shown in the photo.

Tobacco dust, ash, slaked lime are time-tested substances that can be sprayed on cabbage. It is possible to catch insects on glue traps laid out in the garden. The use of poisons is guaranteed to help get rid of the leaf beetle. Preparations "Karate" and "Aktara" will quickly kill the beetles and their larvae.

Cabbage pests: bugs and scoops

cabbage bugs- very prolific pests that feed on plant sap. A characteristic light spot forms at the bite site, as can be seen in the photo. Bacteria, viruses and fungi can penetrate through the wound, causing various.

The photo shows a cabbage bug and a clarified area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe affected leaf

Cabbage bugs are repelled by naphthalene, which is pre-mixed with sand and scattered between the beds. Spraying leaves with tobacco, a decoction of potato tops with onion peels are safe but effective methods of control. Chemical preparations "Phosbecid" or "Belofos" will help get rid of insects even during mass attacks.

butterfly scoop- those insects that multiply rapidly, especially in the southern regions of Russia. The butterfly lays eggs, which it attaches to the underside of the leaf. Soon voracious larvae appear, actively feeding on cabbage leaves, gnaw holes in them. The pest is predominantly nocturnal, hiding during the day at the base of the cabbage stalk. The use of traditional repellents and poisons allows you to get rid of the scoops on cabbage.

Pictured is a cabbage scoop and its caterpillar

caterpillarsis a fairly common problem. Among the various insects, the following ones most often harm the culture:

1. Cabbage white caterpillar. It has a yellow-green color, body length up to 6 cm. The caterpillar is generously covered with long hairs and has a good appetite.
2. Turnip white. The caterpillar is green in color, eats only the tender flesh, but ignores the veins, leaving the leaf skeleton intact.
3. Larvae of the rapeseed sawfly. They eat leaves, causing significant damage to the plant.

For effective prevention, it is worth examining the leaves every few days and mechanically destroying the pest eggs found on them. For chemical control, the preparations "Kemifos", "Inta-vir", "Kreocid" are used. Plantings are sprayed with solutions of these poisons. Positive result comes pretty fast.

Pests of cabbage and how to deal with them folk remedies

In the photo, pest eggs attached to the back of a cabbage leaf

Farmers are increasingly choosing to grow vegetables without the use of chemicals and potent agents. This is correct, because even if all safety rules are observed, a small amount of hazardous substances still enters the soil and can penetrate the human body. What folk remedies can be used to control cabbage pests? We offer you to get acquainted with the most popular of them, namely:

• planting cabbage seedlings with other plants can repel insects. If you plant garlic, dill, basil, sage between cabbage beds, you can get rid of aphids, cabbage flies, scoops;
• spraying with infusion of burdock or tomato tops helps to eliminate cabbage moths and whites;
• a decoction of onion peel - an effective measure to combat aphids on cabbage;
• infusion of chicken manure - an inexpensive remedy for pests;
• spraying foliage with sweet water will attract wasps that love to feast on caterpillars;
• if you water the bed with infusion on onion peel, you can get rid of pests that eat the roots.

Video about cabbage pests and methods of dealing with them:

Dangerous cabbage pests cause huge damage to farms every year. A photo of insects and a description of effective methods of dealing with them will help the vegetable grower quickly recognize dangerous symptoms and destroy them. You can save the harvest folk methods, which will allow you to collect cabbage without harmful substances and good for health.

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I read that Coca-Cola helps to get rid of caterpillars and other pests. It is enough to spray the plant and wait a bit!

cabbage pests

Along with other cruciferous crops (radish, loba), during the growing season, cabbage is susceptible to damage by harmful insects. Their effects are most critical at an early stage of plant development.

In the spring, barely noticeable shoots of cabbage are attacked by cruciferous flea beetles. And its root system is eaten by caterpillar larvae and cabbage flies. Further growth of cabbage is accompanied by a negative impact on its leaves of turnip whites, cabbage scoops, gamma scoops, etc.

Most of all, cabbage suffers from aphids, which quickly fill all its leaves and suck the juice out of them. This leads to wrinkling of the plant and slowing down its development. Active mass exposure to pests can prevent the ovary of a head of cabbage or even lead to the death of the plant.

In addition, cruciferous testes, including. cabbage are susceptible to wrecking by rapeseed leaf beetles and cruciferous bugs.

Cabbage pests and their control

Of the cruciferous plants, kale is the least affected by pests. This is due not only to the preferences of insects or disposition to fungal diseases. Most of the causes of damage to cabbage occur through the fault of gardeners. Many of them neglect the need for preparatory work on the soil before planting seedlings in it. As a result, for example, cauliflower does not reach sufficient size, Brussels sprouts grow with loose stalks, and white cabbage does not tie them at all. This may be due to acidification of the soil or its depletion. Before starting sowing, beginner gardeners should carefully study the specific features of growing certain crops, as well as the most dangerous pests for them and how to destroy them.

Consider the most malicious pests of cabbage.

Flea cabbage (cruciferous)

It is the main and most active type of pest that destroys the early shoots of cabbage crops: radish, turnip, radish, rape, mustard and, in fact, cabbage. These are barely noticeable (2-3 mm long) jumping bugs. Cruciferous fleas come in several varieties. Wavy, notched and light-legged fleas have two yellow longitudinal stripes on their backs. And in blue, respectively, there are dark blue or green stripes on the elytra.

Having overwintered among the fallen leaves, in greenhouse and greenhouse crevices and other secluded places on the surface layers of the soil, the beetles begin to wake up in early spring. Adult individuals feed first on cabbage weeds: rape, field yarutka, shepherd's purse and others. After germination of cabbage shoots or planting of its seedlings, the beetles immediately switch their attention to it. They prefer the youngest leaves, especially cotyledons. Gnawing small holes in the very core of the plant, they contribute to the drying and further death of the plant. At the same time, the larvae of the cruciferous flea are also dangerous, which gnaw through entire tunnels in the layers of leaves.

In spring sunny days, active reproduction of fleas begins. During this period, they need a few warm days for the complete destruction of seedlings or planted seedlings of cabbage in large areas.

Ways to deal with cruciferous flea

To prevent the settlement of garden plots and vegetable gardens with fleas, it is necessary to constantly weed the weeds of the cabbage family: field yarutka, shepherd's purse, sverbigu, rape, chickweed, beetroot, etc.

On sunny days, beds with cabbage shoots or seedlings can be covered with a transparent flooring made of breathable non-woven material (acrylic, agrotex, etc.).

If the fleas still managed to get there, then it's time to use various chemicals and folk remedies. The recipe for one of the effective folk remedies is the daily pollination of plants with tobacco dust. You can add impurities of ash or slaked lime to it (1: 1 from c from calculations of 20 g per 1 m2). Processing should be done early in the morning due to dew. In addition to this, special glue traps can be placed between cabbage plants.

More reliable and effective way flea repellents are chemical preparations. Unlike folk methods, their impact is more harmful. Most often, in private subsidiary plots, Actellik is used. One liter of the mixture, at the rate of 20 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water, is enough to process 10 sq.m. Also widely applicable is Bankol, based on a substance isolated from the body of annelids. It is, in fact, a biological product.

In large-scale production conditions for growing plants, spraying is carried out with chemicals Karate, Decis, Bi-58. This occurs when the negative effects of pests exceed the economic threshold of harmfulness - 10% of the plant colonization by them (i.e. more than 4 beetles per 1 plant).

cabbage aphid

Cabbage aphids have become one of the most dangerous pests of cabbage, mustard, radish and cabbage seeds.

Aphids reproduce parthenogenetically, i.e. without fertilization. There are several types of aphids. Wingless females have an ovoid body, 2-2.3 mm long, which is characterized by a gray-whitish wax coating. The body of winged females reaches the same size. It is characterized by a brown head and chest, as well as a yellow-green abdomen. The wings of these females are transparent with a spot at the top.

Wingless oviparous females no more than 1.7 mm long. Their eggs are elongated oval in shape. At the initial stages of development, they are characterized by a cream color, then they become black and shiny. Eggs are about 0.5 mm in size. The larvae hatched from them resemble adults, but they are much smaller.

Aphid eggs overwinter on testes and cabbage stumps. In the spring, larvae appear from them, which soon become adults, capable of reproducing a similar wingless aphid. In the middle of summer, having left the weeds, winged females fly to the cabbage beds, where they actively breed.

Each of their many is capable of spawning about 40 larvae.
After some time, cabbage leaves become completely covered with aphids. They continuously suck the juice from the plant, which causes the plant to become discolored. Or its leaves take on a grayish-pink hue and curl. This significantly affects the growth and development of cabbage heads. With a mass attack of testicle aphids, their shoots with flowers and buds also change color, seeds cease to form.

Extermination of cabbage aphids

You can prevent the spread of aphids, as well as other pests, by cleaning and burning stumps and other plant debris after harvesting cabbage. And also systematic weeding of cabbage weeds is necessary (shepherd's purse, rape, beetroot, sverbiga, zhrushnik and others). In autumn, careful digging of the soil with leveling is recommended. Production conditions require deep autumn plowing and spring cultivation.

cruciferous bugs

They are among the most common pests of cabbage and cruciferous crops in general.

Adult cruciferous bugs reach up to 10 mm in size. They have 3-membered tarsi and 5-membered antennae attached to the underside of the head. The color of their body is variegated, different in different species. For example, the rapeseed cruciferous bug (Eurydema oleracea L.) is distinguished by distinct spots and stripes of white, orange or red.

The wintering of adult bed bugs takes place in ravines, vegetable gardens, weed thickets, and forest litter. Their awakening comes at the end of April. From now on, they will feed on cabbage weeds, early shoots of cabbage vegetables and planted seedlings. Bedbug females lay their eggs in early summer. After 1-2 weeks, larvae will appear from them, and after another month they will turn into adult bugs. Cruciferous bugs reproduce only one generation per year. The exception is the painted bug that lives in the southern part. He can give two generations.

For cabbage crops, both adult bugs and larvae are harmful. They make mechanical damage to the leaves of cabbage and other cruciferous plants, making numerous punctures in their skin and sucking out the juice. Due to the release of special saliva by the bug, the affected area of ​​the leaf turns yellow. This occurs as a result of the penetration of enzymes into them, which necrosis of plant cells. By their actions, the bugs cause significant damage to seedlings and seedlings, which begin to wither, curl and die. For mature plants, this is fraught with a decrease in productivity. The effects of bedbug damage are exacerbated by drought.

Cruciferous bed bug basics

Prevent the mass appearance of bedbugs in garden plots by regularly weeding weeds: shepherd's purse, field yarutka, colza, sverbiga, etc. Big role early planting of cabbage seedlings plays, and after harvesting - careful collection and subsequent destruction of plant residues.
For the preservation of cabbage plants when grown in large-scale production conditions, effective chemicals Actellik and Fosbecid are used. It is advisable to treat plants with them from the moment the EPV (economic threshold of harmfulness) is exceeded. As a rule, when a head of cabbage is set, no more than two bugs are allowed on the plant. To do this, 5 plants are examined at each of 20 different locations in the field.

cabbage leaf beetle

Another ubiquitous pest of cabbage and its crops is the cabbage leaf beetle. Its negative impact is directed not only to cabbage, but also to turnips, rutabaga, radishes, radishes, etc. These beetles cause significant damage to the plant when they make large through holes on the surface of the leaf or notches on its edge.

The cabbage leaf beetle is a small beetle (no more than 4.5 mm) ovoid and dark green metallic in color.

This beetle hibernates on the soil surface, hiding under fallen leaves, vegetation residues, in manure and other secluded places. Leaf beetles are ready to leave them only at the beginning of May. From this point on, the females will begin to lay their eggs in the pits of the pulp of the leaves, which they first gnaw out and then fill with secretions to prevent drying. After one and a half to two weeks, larvae will appear from the eggs, which will feed on the scraped skin of the leaf. Then, after 2-3 weeks, they will move into the soil and pupate. Three more weeks will pass and a new generation of leaf beetles will appear on the cabbage leaves. During the annual period, one of its generations is replaced.

Means to combat the cabbage leaf beetle

To reliably prevent the mass spread of the cabbage leaf beetle, it is necessary to regularly weed the weeds belonging to the cabbage family: beetroot, shepherd's purse, rape, field yarutka, chickweed, sverbigu, etc.
A folk remedy for combating the cabbage leaf beetle was its repulsion by daily pollination of plants with tobacco dust. To it, you can add impurities of ash or slaked lime (1: 1 at the rate of 20 g per 1 m2). Processing should be done early in the morning due to dew. In addition to this, special glue traps can be placed between cabbage plants.

A more reliable and effective way to scare away fleas are chemicals. Unlike folk methods, their impact is more harmful. Most often, in private subsidiary plots, Actellik is used. One liter of the mixture, at the rate of 20 ml of the drug per 10 liters of water, is enough to process 10 sq.m. Bankol, based on a substance isolated from the composition of marine annelids, is also widely applicable. It is, in fact, a biological product.

In large-scale production conditions for growing plants, spraying is carried out with chemicals Karate, Decis, Bi-58. This happens when the negative effects of pests exceed the EPV - 10% of the colonization of the plant by them (i.e., more than 4 beetles per 1 plant).

cabbage scoop

The ubiquitous cabbage scoop is extremely dangerous. Its caterpillars spoil not only cabbage, but also beets, vegetable peas, onions, flax, turnips, tobacco, lettuce and other crops.

Its adult is a gray-brown moth. Its wingspan is up to 5cm. Females will start laying eggs from the end of May. Their clutch is located on the inside of the leaves. After two or three weeks, caterpillars appear. Their development occurs within two months. This is the most harmful stage of the caterpillar.

The body of the cabbage scoop caterpillar has a cylindrical shape, up to 5 cm long. It is thick, naked, has 16 legs. The color of the caterpillar is green, as it grows older it becomes brown-brown. Along the sides there is a yellow stripe, and on the back there is a herringbone pattern.

On the initial stage caterpillars scrape the flesh of the leaves from their underside, then they spread, gnawing multiple holes on the cabbage leaves irregular shape. Active time days of caterpillars, mainly at night. During the day they hide near the head of cabbage. By the approach of autumn, they bite into the head, making moves and polluting with excrement. As a result, heads of cabbage become practically unsuitable for storage and consumption.

Cauliflower caterpillars damage the head and leaves, onion they gnaw wide elongated holes on the surfaces of the inner parts of the leaves.

How to deal with cabbage scoop

As a measure to prevent the numerous appearance of cabbage scoops, experts recommend careful digging of the soil in the autumn period and subsequent leveling. And for production conditions, deep autumn plowing and spring cultivation are required. This will destroy most of the scoop pupae wintering in the soil.

On the territory of a small area, manual collection of clutches of eggs and caterpillars is carried out before they climb deep into the heads of cabbage. This should be done early in the morning or on a cloudy day. If the caterpillars managed to penetrate deep into the head of cabbage, then there is nothing to help here.

You can catch cabbage scoop butterflies by attracting them with a fire made at night.

The biological control of the cabbage scoop is carried out by a trichogram, which destroys almost all scoop eggs. Also effective is the effect of microbiological preparations - Lepidocide, Bitoxibacillin, Dipel. Active chemical preparation Actellik, Diazinon, Fitoverm, Bazudin, Biorin, Zeta, Inta-vir, Kinmiks, Karbofos, Phosbecid), which are applicable for ECP (economic threshold of harmfulness) - which are rational when more than 7 caterpillars are found on 50 plants.

Cabbage stalk secretive proboscis

This pest is ubiquitous. It actively harms cabbage seedlings, radishes, radishes, rutabaga, cabbage seedlings and other crops.
Its adult is represented as a black bug with a long and thin head. It is small in size - up to 3 mm. In winter, the beetles hide under the leaf deck and plant debris on the upper layers of the soil. They wake up in the spring, usually in May. At this point, they begin to feed on various cabbage weeds, then switch to cultivated plants. The damage inflicted by adult specimens of the cabbage secretive proboscis does not significantly affect the subsequent development of plants.

The threat is represented by the larvae of the secretive proboscis. They become active by the end of May, appearing from eggs laid in leaf veins or stem. The body of the larvae is not more than 5 mm in length, has a white color. They are legless and have a large yellow head. Gnawing passages in the leaf, they penetrate into the stem of a young plant and descend to the root. Such actions entail damage to the conducting system of the plant. As a result, its leaves quickly turn yellow. With significant damage, the plant may even die.

The fight against cabbage stem secretive proboscis

It is possible to prevent the spread of the secretive trunk, as well as other pests, by cleaning and burning stumps and other plant residues after harvesting cabbage. And also systematic weeding of weeds of the cabbage family is necessary (shepherd's purse, rape, beetroot, sverbiga, zhrushnik and others). In autumn, careful digging of the soil with leveling is recommended. Production conditions require deep autumn plowing and spring cultivation. Early shoots and seedlings with pest larvae will have to be destroyed.

When growing seedlings in a greenhouse, it can be covered from above with a non-woven material (for example, agril or agrotex). This will protect the seedlings, both from the secretive proboscis, and from cabbage fleas and flies. Chemical treatment of plants with Actellik and Fosbecid is effective.

Perhaps you will be interested :

There are various pests of cabbage, some of the most popular sucking and gnawing representatives: cruciferous flea, snails, slugs, aphids, scoops, Maybug. Against each of them there are individual methods of struggle. To minimize the impact on plants, apply folk recipes, biological methods. If a significant part of the plantings is infected, chemical preparations can be used.

Plantings can be saved by applying complex measures. If you use specific means against certain insects, as well as processing, regularly digging up the soil, weeding the site, the risk of cabbage infection is reduced.

Features of the cruciferous flea

This insect is black in color, the body is shiny. The size of the pest is small, and the speed of movement is significant. The cruciferous flea can jump, which, together with other factors, makes the process of breeding an insect difficult. Favorite food: shoots, seedlings. hallmark plantations affected by the disease: holes in the leaf.

If nothing is done, soon only veins will remain from the leaflet, and then it will die.

There are several ways to protect cabbage from pests:

1. A bed with plantings is sprinkled with ashes. You can prepare a mixture based on it, tobacco dust is added here. The flea does not tolerate these funds, however, after rain, it is necessary to re-treat, as the coating disappears.
2. The garden where cabbage grows is covered with non-woven material. This will provide protection from small pests until the plantings get stronger. Then the cabbage will cease to interest the flea, because it prefers shoots.
3. The fight against small pests of cabbage is carried out by essential oil fir. Intense smell unpleasant to insects. You need to add oil to irrigation water: 10-15 drops are taken per 10 liters.
4. You can protect cabbage using an infusion of chicken manure. This tool also serves as a top dressing for plantings - it accelerates the growth of shoots.
5. When thinking about how to process cabbage from a flea, you should consider among effective methods and vinegar. The essence of 7% must be stirred in water (take 10 liters). AT hot weather it is recommended to spray the product in the evening, as the leaves can get burned.
6. In the spring, before planting cabbage, garlic should be planted on the site.

Cabbage scoop: larvae and butterflies

When thinking about which insects / animals are pests of cabbage, you should pay attention to the scoop. It is the cabbage scoop that causes harm to the culture. They are beige, gray color, lays eggs in large numbers, choosing for this purpose the inner side of the leaves. As they form, the larvae turn into yellow-black caterpillars and destroy the crop.

Immediately after leaving the eggs, caterpillars of the Scoop butterfly begin to actively eat cabbage leaves.

• Prepare a mixture of crushed soap (2 tablespoons), ash (1 tablespoon). It is added to a bucket of water. The mixture must be sprayed over the cabbage.
• You can attract wasps to the garden. Thinking about how to get rid of caterpillars on young cabbage, it is recommended to sprinkle plantings with diluted jam. It is allowed to process plants with sugar syrup. Wasps will fly to the smell and clean the cabbage from caterpillars, because it is an excellent food for wasp offspring.
• Infusion based on onion peel. It will take 0.5 kg of raw materials. The indicated amount is placed in 4 liters of boiling water. The agent is insisted for 2 days, then the plantings are sprayed. To achieve the desired result, plantings should be sprayed up to 4 times a day.
• Can be sprinkled over cabbage baking soda dry.

How to get rid of snails and slugs?

They appear at night, during the day they hide in shaded areas of the garden, more often where it is humid.

Scatter mustard powder or tobacco between plantings, snails and slugs cannot stand it

Thinking about how to treat cabbage from pests with folk remedies, It is recommended that you first consider the recipes:

• Powdered mustard is scattered between the shoots. Slugs / snails do not tolerate it very well.
• Solution based on ammonia. Take 40 ml of the substance and add to water (5 l). Plantings are poured with the resulting solution.
• You can treat cabbage from slugs using an infusion based on bitter pepper. It is prepared from 100 g of raw material, which was previously crushed. Pepper is poured with water (1 l). The infusion is prepared for 2 days, after the specified time, the agent must be boiled and left to infuse for an additional day. Filter the solution before use. In addition, it needs to be diluted: take 1/2 cup of infusion in a bucket of water, combine with 1 tbsp. l. soaked soap.
• Eggshell. It should be accumulated during the winter, and in the spring used to protect the beds from slugs. The shell is crushed and poured into the aisle.
• The area where cabbage grows is protected with nettles. The plant is laid out on shoots, on the ground.

How to destroy cabbage aphids?

Insects of this species attack en masse, with a strong infection, the plant is completely stuck around and quickly dies. Aphids offend shoots.

Black dots appear on cabbage leaves, it withers and curls. If the aphids are not dealt with, the plant will soon die.

Processing cabbage from pests of this species is carried out using a variety of methods:

1. Having determined who eats cabbage, you can prepare a soap solution. Take 400 g of raw materials per bucket of water. The treatment is repeated after a week.
2. Infusion based on tomato tops. It will take no more than 2 kg of raw materials per 5 liters of boiling water. You need to insist the plant for 4 hours. After waiting for the specified period of time, the solution must be boiled for 3 hours. Before use, it must be filtered and diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 2. To enhance the properties of the infusion, you can add about 30 g laundry soap.
3. Prepare a mixture using ash and tobacco dust (1 cup of each substance), mustard powder (1 tablespoon), add the same amount of crushed soap. The mixture is diluted in a bucket of water, then infused for no longer than a day, filtered and used.

Destruction of insect larvae: scoops, May beetle and cabbage fly

Solving the problem of what kind of cabbage pests appeared and how to deal with them, you should consider a few tips regarding the destruction of a variety of larvae. The caterpillars of these insects undermine the plants from the ground. To remove them, it is better to simply bring them to the garden. garden ants, because for them the larvae of the May beetle, scoop or cabbage fly are suitable food.

You can pour plantings with sweet syrup or dig a shallow container with diluted jam into the ground. This will attract ants.

More about biopreparations

• Bicol / Bitoxibacillin - affect aphids, bedbugs.
• Aktofit - destroys various types of pests: gnawing, sucking. Helps to bring out the scoop, aphids, cabbage moth and whitefish.
• Nemabakt - the drug shows itself well against locusts, bears, nematodes, thrips, etc.
• Verticillin - manifests itself as an effective remedy against aphids and whiteflies.
• Metarizin / Pecilomycin - analogues of the drug Nemabakt, protect against nematodes.

Summer advice: Effective means of protecting cabbage from pests

chemicals

These funds may be the only true way to fight against various pests, but only if the plantations are severely affected. In such conditions, traditional recipes are usually ineffective. The composition of chemicals includes insecticides of different classes: neonicotinoids, organophosphorus compounds, etc.

Allows you to destroy the caterpillars of various insects: scoops, moths, whiteflies, aphids, flies, thrips, whites. A solution is being prepared: 5 ml of the product for 5 liters of water. Consumption: no more than 1 liter for every 10 sq. m.

fury

Contains compounds of the pyrethroid group. This tool is poisonous, which means it works effectively, but dangerous to health. To prepare the solution, no more than 1 ml of the substance is required. This amount is diluted in 3-6 liters of water.

Given the high level of toxicity, this product is recommended to be diluted outdoors, and sprayed in calm weather, otherwise the risk of poisoning increases.

Bankol

Helps to destroy white caterpillars, as well as cabbage moths and scoops. The solution is prepared on the basis of 4 ml of the substance and water (5 l). If the desired result was not obtained, the processing is repeated.

How to grow cabbage. Varieties, types, planting and care

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Beetles overwinter in the soil, under plant debris and dung clods, etc., leave the wintering place in May. In May, females lay their eggs in pits gnawed in the pulp of leaves and flooded with secretions that protect them from drying out. After 10-12 days, larvae emerge from the eggs, which feed by scraping the skin of the leaf. After another three weeks, the larvae go into the soil and pupate. After 8-12 days, beetles of a new generation emerge from the pupa. In a year, the cabbage leaf beetle gives one generation.

If fleas nevertheless appeared, then vegetables can be saved using folk remedies and chemicals. A folk remedy is to scare away fleas by daily dusting cabbage plants with tobacco dust or its mixture with ash, or slaked lime (1: 1, 20-30 g per m2 ) in the morning on the dew. You can use glue traps placed between the plants.

To combat cabbage pests, a whole range of measures is used that exterminate insects and prevent them from overwintering and again starting to cause damage next year. Various insecticides are used for destruction, pests are manually collected. You can try to get rid of pests and different ways without the use of chemistry.

- After germination, when the seedlings are 12-15 days old, we reduce the soil temperature in the daytime to +15..+17 ºC, and at night to +12 ºC. During this period, the air temperature fluctuates between +8..+10 ºC during the day, and +7..+9 ºC at night.​

Proper preparation of the site for planting cabbage

Cabbage seedlings, 1 week after sowing. © Garden's Gate

For the purpose of prevention, I also let my dill grow anywhere - the flea does not like its smell, as well as the smell of potatoes, marigolds, cumin, coriander.

Note

Pre-sowing work with cabbage seeds

Following the butterflies, the cabbage aphid appears - a small insect with a pale gray wax coating. The aphid brings along a whole colony of pests, and by common efforts they suck the juices out of the plant. If they are not neutralized in time, the plant will completely die. With cabbage aphids, as well as with hordes of caterpillars, spraying with a solution of anabasin sulfate at a concentration of 0.2%, an infusion of celandine (1 kg of chopped tops per 2-3 liters of boiling water), a decoction of tobacco dust with the addition of soap (400 g per 2 liters of boiling water).​

Growing high-quality, good seedlings of cabbage

A distinctive feature of this type of cabbage is its rapid growth. It grows well both in protected and open ground, the growing season is 45-50 days. Suitable for consumption already in the phase of 5-7 leaves, which allows to reduce the growing season to 30-35 days. Unlike white cabbage, Beijing seedlings are planted at the age of 25 days according to the 20x25 cm pattern. Otherwise, its agricultural technology remains the same as for other species.

Heated areas of soil are suitable for growing seedlings in nurseries. They are marked out according to the 5x5 cm scheme, recesses are made, where several peas of superphosphate and 2-3 seeds are placed. The recesses are sprinkled with a mixture of sand and compost, watered abundantly. warm water, and the area with landings is covered with a film. Before germination, watering is carried out daily. With the advent of the first sprouts, the film is removed in the daytime. The seedlings are thinned out after the formation of the 1st true leaf, leaving the two strongest plants, a mixture of earth and ash (1: 1) is poured into the holes, the film cover is removed. After 7-8 days, the weaker plant is removed.

The oldest vegetable - cabbage, was used in food by primitive people in stone and bronze age. In the ancient period, this healthy vegetable was widely cultivated in Greece and Rome, and by the beginning of the 10th century it appeared among the Slavic peoples, taking pride of place on the table of a Russian person. Appreciating its wonderful taste and useful properties, cabbage was used in the diet all year round, inventing many ways to harvest and preserve it in the winter. To date, cabbage is the most popular vegetable, occupying important place in a healthy diet.​

To prevent the mass appearance of the cabbage leaf beetle, you need to regularly weed weeds from the Cabbage family: shepherd's purse, field yarutka, rape, sverbiga, beetroot, chickweed, etc.

Of course, a more reliable, but also less harmless way is chemical preparations. In personal subsidiary farms, Aktellik is used (20 ml per 10 liters of water, 1 liter solution consumption for spraying 10 m2) or Bankol (in fact, it is a biological product, since based on a substance derived from marine annelids).​

The fight against harmful insects should begin from the moment the seedlings are grown. It is necessary to carefully examine it for various midges and insects that can hide for the time being in the soil, if you took it from your site. At this stage, you can fight pests with tobacco infusion. After harvesting, cabbage leaves or stalks should not be left on the site, otherwise all kinds of pests can hide in them for the winter.

We dive 2-week-old seedlings (the phase of unfolded cotyledons or the first leaf) into cassettes or pots 5x5, 7x7 cm, depending on the variety and development of the seedling. In seedlings, we pinch the tip of the root, gently deepen it into the soil to the cotyledons. We pick seedlings according to the 5x5 scheme. From picking to hardening of seedlings, we maintain the soil temperature at +10 ºC at night, and +14..+16 ºC during the day. The air temperature is approximately +7..+10 ºC.​

Under seedlings, a well-aerated, light substrate with a large supply of nutrients, water-permeable, but quite moisture-absorbing, is needed. Such a soil mixture can be obtained from the following ingredients:

Cultivation of cabbage

Cabbage will keep well if you put dry straw under the heads (it absorbs moisture well) and change it as soon as it gets wet. Better yet, use dried fern leaves for bedding, they will protect heads of cabbage from rot.

By the way!

cabbage care

See also: Cold-resistant varieties of cabbage

​Thanks to a huge number vitamins, minerals, carbohydrates, proteins, salts and organic acids contained in it, cabbage is not only tasty, but also a very valuable dietary product and is actively grown in almost every subsidiary farm.

A folk remedy is to scare away beetles by daily dusting cabbage plants with tobacco dust or a mixture of it with ash, or slaked lime (1: 1, 20-30 g per m2) in the morning through dew. Glue traps placed between plants can be used.

Under production conditions, plants are sprayed when pests reach the economic threshold of harmfulness (more than 4 beetles per plant with 10% of their colonization) with Karate, Bi-58, Decis preparations.

red cabbage

These jumping small pests are only 2-3 mm in size. The color of the insect is black with a silvery tint. They appear already at the end of March, at first they feed on cruciferous wild plants, and when shoots of radishes, cabbages appear, they move to them. For a day it harmful insect eats three times its weight, so young cabbage leaves very quickly find themselves in a small hole. If nothing is done, then only veins will remain from the leaf, and then the plant will die altogether.

If the weather is cloudy, the seedlings need additional lighting. Lack of lighting delays the development of seedlings. For additional illumination, you can use a fluorescent lamp 12-15 hours a day.​

- sheet or sod land, as the basis of the soil. You can use both types of soil in equal proportions,​

Broccoli

Watch this video on YouTube

Brussels sprouts

Your cabbage crop recent times store, wrapping after drying in cling film. Late varieties are better suited for this method, and then only those with stone-dense forks (​

In November, it is time to take care of late cabbage varieties, they are usually harvested last. Moreover, it is important to do it on time. If you hurry and cut down the heads of cabbage in warm weather, they will wither and during storage they will suffer more from diseases, and be late - they will crack at the seams or freeze.

With a long daylight hours, plants can shoot, but Beijing cabbage leaves do not lose their taste.

The future harvest depends on the growth rate of the cabbage rosette, therefore, 10-12 days after planting seedlings in open ground, it is necessary to fertilize with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Watering during this period should be regular, every 3-4 days, then weekly. Wet soil is loosened between rows, plants are spudded and weeds are removed. The second top dressing - organic - is applied before the start of tying heads.

BTW!

Kohlrabi

Of course, a more reliable, but also less harmless way is chemical preparations. In personal subsidiary farms, Aktellik is used (20 ml per 10 liters of water, 1 liter solution consumption for spraying 10 m2) or Bankol (in fact, it is a biological product, since based on a substance derived from marine annelids). Under production conditions, plants are sprayed with Karate, Bi-58, Decis preparations.

Dangerous pest of cabbage, radish, radish, swede, mustard, cabbage seeds.

There are several ways to deal with cabbage fleas. It is possible for the first time to cover young seedlings with a non-woven fabric, blocking access to them for insects. When the seedlings become older, their leaves will get stronger and coarser, they will no longer attract this pest, then the canvas should be removed. The second option is to sprinkle plantings with ash and tobacco dust in the same proportions, you can only ash. The disadvantage of this method is that after each watering it will be necessary to sprinkle the plants again. Another way is to spray the cabbage with a weak solution of chicken manure. It will help to cope with fleas and will also serve as a top dressing for growing cabbage.

The entire period of care, the substrate under the seedlings should be wet. Excessive moisture should not be allowed, especially at low temperatures. A weak root system of seedlings with an excess of moisture is affected by root rot. Therefore, before the emergence of seedlings, the soil is moistened with a spray bottle. In the future, watered with a moderate rate once a week.

Chinese cabbage

- old ripe humus or biohumus. Instead of these components, you can use high-moor peat,

© Svetlana Kutueva, Moscow region

Gingerbread man, Megaton, Stone head

In the middle lane, late cabbage is usually harvested in late October - early November. By this time, the heads of cabbage are fully formed and reach their largest size, dense to the touch, with a slight crunch. The covering leaves on the top of the head brighten and acquire a characteristic luster, people say: “The bald head is lit up.”Savoy cabbage

BTW!

A ubiquitous and very dangerous pest. Caterpillars of cabbage scoops damage cabbage, beets, onions, turnips, vegetable peas, tobacco, lettuce, flax and other crops. The body of wingless females, parthenogenetically (without fertilization) hatching larvae, ovoid, 1.9-2.3 mm long covered with gray-whitish wax dust. In winged parthenogenetic females, the wings are transparent, with a characteristic dark spot at the top, the head and chest are brown, the abdomen is yellow-green, and the body length is up to 2.3 mm. Oviparous females are wingless, 1.7 mm long. The egg is elongated-oval, initially creamy, later black, shiny, 0.5 mm long. The larvae are similar to adult wingless aphids, but much smaller.

The cabbage scoop is a butterfly, from the eggs of which caterpillars appear, harming not only cabbage, but also peas, pumpkins, and beets. The pest eats holes in the leaves, in the head it can gnaw through passages. Such plants quickly rot and disappear.

CABBAGE PESTS AND HOW TO FIGHT THEM

Cabbage seedling. ©Nic​

- to create looseness, add river sand, sawdust, perlite.

Cabbage is a healthy vegetable that is often ignored by young people, replacing cabbage salads with fast foods. It refers to a culture whose varieties regulate the processes of hematopoiesis, participate in the formation of bone tissue, and affect the metabolism in the body (carbohydrates and fats).

​).​

More accurate harvesting times are most often determined by the weather, it all depends on how early the frosts come. You need to start harvesting cabbage when the night temperature drops to 0 ... -2 * C, in dry weather, so that the plant has as little moisture as possible.

​(more about growing savoy cabbage)​

Watering cabbage is best done in the morning or evening, optimum temperature water for irrigation + 18 ... 20 ° С. Two weeks before harvest, watering should be stopped so that the heads do not crack.

In addition to white cabbage, which is undoubtedly the leader in its family, seven more of its “relatives” are grown in our culture, which have no less nutritional value.

The adult is a brown-gray moth with a wingspan of up to 5 cm. two months. It is the caterpillar stage that is harmful.

Aphids overwinter in the egg stage on stumps, cabbage seedlings and weeds. In the spring, larvae emerge from the eggs, developing into wingless aphids that give birth to larvae. Later, winged females appear, usually flying in the middle of summer from weeds to cabbage, where they breed, spawning up to 40 larvae each.

The cabbage white is a white butterfly with black edging on the wings. On the lower part of the leaf, the butterfly lays eggs, from which, over time, voracious caterpillars appear, eating and spoiling cabbage leaves. With a large number of them, they can completely destroy the plant.

harvesting cabbage

Most often, seedlings are affected by fungal diseases: black leg, mucous and vascular bacteriosis, fusarium wilt.

The ingredients are mixed in the following proportions 1:2:1.

Absolutely hypoallergenic culture, which includes more than 11 elements, vitamins of groups "B", "C", "A", "E", "PP" and others. The group of cabbage vegetables contains lutein and zeoxanthin, which enter the body ready-made from the outside. These compounds protect the eyes from the aggressive part of the light spectrum, improve visual acuity, and protect eye tissues from free radical damage that leads to cancer. Therefore, cabbage should be on the dining table all year round.

Before wrapping the head of cabbage in a film, I shortly cut off each stump (up to 1 cm) and remove all loosely fitting leaves. I take wide rolls of film (45 cm) and make at least two or three full turns around each, smoothing each tightly. After that, I put the cabbage in cardboard boxes and lower it into the basement.

The air gap between the leaves allows the head of cabbage to tolerate negative temperatures well. Late-ripening varieties can withstand short-term frosts down to -4-5'C on the vine.

Savoy cabbage, in comparison with white cabbage, contains more nutrients and vitamins, but it is not very popular among vegetable growers. Although this type of cabbage is more cold and drought tolerant, less prone to disease and tolerates heavy soils, its low yield, short storage period and unsuitability for sauerkraut make Savoy cabbage less attractive to grow.

The third top dressing, also with organic fertilizers, is carried out after 20 days. After it, it is advisable to once again hill the cabbage to stimulate the appearance of additional roots and better supply the plants with food.

In order to grow a good crop of cabbage, the planting site has been prepared since autumn. The earth is dug up to a depth of at least 25 cm and freed from weeds. In the spring, fertilizers are applied at the rate of 1 bucket of compost and 2 cups of wood ash per 1 m2. The soil is dug up again, and before planting the cabbage, they are well loosened. Since cabbage is a moisture, light and heat-loving crop, an open, sunny site is allocated for it, and the land should be fertile, retain moisture well and have a neutral level of acidity.

The caterpillar of the cabbage cutworm is almost cylindrical, thick, naked, 16-legged, up to 5 cm long. in the form of a "Christmas tree."

With the mass appearance of the pest, the leaves are completely covered with aphids, which, sucking the juice from the plants, cause discoloration of the leaves, sometimes the leaves acquire a bluish-pink hue, curl. The plant is stunted, the development of heads of cabbage stops. On the testes, shoots with buds and flowers become bluish-pink, seeds do not form.

How can cabbage be treated from these pests? In ten liters of water, insist for three days a couple of glasses of ash and a tablespoon of tar shampoo or liquid soap. After the infusion, you need to sprinkle the cabbage. Another way is to make an infusion of onion skins or tomato stalks. This infusion produces a smell that repels butterflies and prevents them from laying eggs on cabbage. The infusion is prepared as follows: two liters hot water poured into liter jar, filled to the top with onion peel, left for a couple of days. Next, bring the volume to four liters and pour a tablespoon of liquid soap into it.

In order not to lose part of the seedlings from disease, we carry out the following measures:

You can offer a simpler composition - for 20 parts of soddy or clean garden soil without the use of herbicides, add 5 parts of ash (the main source of macro- and microelements), 1 part of lime and 1 part of sand.

The cabbage group has one biological feature. All types of cabbage are strongly affected by diseases and pests. Under production conditions, in order to get beautiful, healthy-looking heads of cabbage without traces of disease or damage by sucking and gnawing pests, it is treated 2 times a week with drugs and far from harmless.

If you harvest according to all the rules, cabbage will be stored for a long time.

For you to know

Agricultural technology does not differ from that of white cabbage, it is grown both through seedlings and in open ground, it responds well to increased doses of organic and potash fertilizers.

This is a type of white cabbage. Differs in red-violet leaf color, smaller size and higher density of heads, increased frost resistance and longer shelf life. Grow red cabbage in the same way as white cabbage. However, to feed it, it is necessary to use a smaller amount of nitrogen fertilizers, since with their excess, the susceptibility of plants to diseases increases, and the taste and commercial qualities of heads of cabbage also decrease.

BTW!

First, the caterpillars scrape the tissue of the leaves from the underside, then they crawl and gnaw out irregularly shaped holes on the leaves of the cabbage. They feed mainly at night, and during the day they hide at the base of the head of cabbage. Closer to autumn, they penetrate inside the head of cabbage, gnawing passages in it and polluting it with excrement. At the same time, heads of cabbage become unsuitable for food and storage. To prevent the spread of aphids and other pests, it is recommended to clean and burn plant residues (stumps) after harvesting cabbage, carefully digging the soil in autumn, followed by leveling (under production conditions, deep autumn plowing and spring cultivation ), as well as regular weeding of weeds from the Cabbage family: shepherd's purse, field yaruka, rape, sverbigu, beetroot, chickweed, etc. These creatures harm cabbage at night, eating leaves and leaving holes in them. To combat them, you can pour mustard powder or crushed egg shells near each head of cabbage. Another option is to sprinkle the ground in the garden with an infusion of hot pepper.

- we water the seedlings with a solution of biopreparations with phytosporin, trichodermin or planriz according to the recommendations,

- freezing,

A proven way to ferment cabbage so that it crunches!

It turns out that the cabbage sold on the market was treated for diseases and pests with chemicals about 30 times during the growing season. Therefore, in order to use hypoallergenic, environmentally friendly products, it is better to grow cabbage on your own in your garden plot, where you can create conditions for minimal processing of the emerging crop and only with drugs or solutions that do not harm humans and animals.

Chop the cabbage, add grated carrots, dill and cumin seeds (if any - and cranberries), mix and put in jars. Tamp with your hand, but not much.

At the root, cabbage is able to tolerate frosts down to -5 ... -7 ° C, but if cut heads of cabbage fall under such temperatures, their keeping quality will deteriorate. During storage, they will deteriorate starting from the stalk. Therefore, if the cold began before you had time to remove the heads, then do not rush to cut the cabbage, but give it a few days to thaw in the garden.

cauliflower

Cultivation of cabbage: sharing experience

The fight against the block on the kpuste

BTW!

It is undesirable to grow cabbage in one place for more than 3 years, and its best predecessors in the garden can be potatoes, onions, cucumbers, legumes or cereals.

In cauliflower, caterpillars damage the leaves and head; in onions, caterpillars gnaw out large elongated holes on internal parts leaves.

- dry the soil with dry sand or moisture-intensive mulch,

- steaming,

In all regions of Russia, early, middle and late cabbage is grown through seedlings. To obtain healthy seedlings, it is better to purchase seed material in specialized stores. When purchasing seeds or seedlings, be sure to choose zoned varieties. As a rule, they are highly resistant to pests and diseases. In addition, the seeds are prepared for sowing and will not require time and money for processing and preparation for sowing. When purchasing seeds, please note that the packaging must indicate:

Prepare the filling: for 1 liter of boiled water, take 2 tbsp. tablespoons of salt and sugar-Stir well and pour cabbage.

​You can calculate the harvest time by adding the number of days the cabbage needs to reach maturity to the seedling date (this information is usually indicated on the seed packaging). True, this method also does not guarantee special accuracy. After all, one cannot discount both the vagaries of the weather and the delay in planting seedlings. Yes, and keeping track of the appearance of sprouts is another task ...

Growing cabbage - video

(more)

Harvesting of this type of cabbage can be carried out just before the frosts, since it is not afraid of low temperatures, and the taste from a longer stay in cool conditions only improves.

A few days before planting, it is recommended to prepare the seeds, which consists of several important steps. To begin with, the seeds are calibrated by sifting them through a sieve with a mesh size of up to 1.5 mm. Then, to identify low-quality seeds, they are checked for density by placing them in a saline solution for 10 minutes. The settled seeds are suitable for sowing, they are washed and dried. The next step is disinfection, for which a solution is prepared from 25 g of crushed garlic and 100 ml of water, the seeds are kept in it for an hour, then washed and dried again. The preparation for planting is completed by hardening, for which the gauze bag with seeds is immersed in hot (+50°C) water for 20 minutes and cold (+5°C) for 3 minutes. Then the seeds are dried to flowability and planted.

vsaduidoma.com

Proper cultivation of cabbage seedlings

To prevent the mass appearance of cabbage scoops, a thorough autumn digging of the soil is recommended, followed by leveling (under production conditions, deep autumn plowing and spring cultivation), which allows you to destroy a significant part of the scoop wintering in the pupae stage.

When the first colonies of aphids are found on cabbage, the leaves with aphids are wiped with a cloth dipped in a soap solution. Folk remedies - the use of infusions and decoctions of potato and tomato tops, tobacco, henbane, onions, garlic, etc.

Cabbage pests.

- reduce the frequency and intensity of watering,

seed

- etching.

• - name of the variety, and group (early, middle, late),
• Let stand for 2 days, then put in a cool place for a day. After 3 days, put in the refrigerator. Cabbage turns out crispy and tasty.
• From personal experience
• Cauliflower is the most demanding "relative" in the family. It needs highly fertile soil with good moisture, intensive lighting, especially at the seedling growing stage, stable average temperature air and soil. Increased moisture requirements and sensitivity to high temperatures are due to the fact that the root system of cauliflower is poorly developed. Growing by seedlings or sowing seeds in open ground, the conditions of keeping and caring for cauliflower are the same as for white cabbage. A specific moment in the cultivation of this type of cabbage is the shelter of ripening heads with rosette leaves. To do this, several leaves are broken, at the base of the rosette and fastened above the head. This technique is necessary to keep the heads snow-white and prevent their mechanical damage.​

Broccoli is considered a transitional form from kale to cauliflower. Like all types of cabbage, it is cold-resistant, moisture-loving, grows well on fertile soils with a neutral level of acidity. Agrotechnics of broccoli is similar to white cabbage. It differs from other types of cabbage in the ability to produce lateral offspring inflorescences after removing the central one. This allows you to remove an additional crop of inflorescences from one plant. Broccoli is sensitive to high temperatures and in hot weather forms buds very quickly. If the heads of inflorescences are not cut off in time, they will easily germinate and the plant will bloom. It differs from cauliflower in being less demanding on soil fertility, but its need for nitrogen-containing fertilizers is higher than that of red cabbage.

Prepared seeds are planted on seedlings in a loose and nutritious mixture of humus and earth (9: 1), 5 g of potassium chloride, 10 g of ammonium nitrate and 30 g of superphosphate are added to a bucket of soil. For planting use seedling boxes, individual pots or nurseries.

The technology of growing seedlings of cabbage

In small areas, you can manually collect the laid eggs and young caterpillars until they have climbed deep into the heads. Such a collection is carried out early in the morning or in the afternoon in cloudy weather. If the caterpillars have penetrated inside the head of cabbage, then you can pull them out with a wire hook, although it is better not to bring it to this.

• The use of chemicals (Antio, Bi-58 new, Decis extra, Karbofos, Rovikurt) under production conditions is recommended only when the economic threshold of harmfulness is reached: when 5-10% of plants are populated by aphids. To determine the EPV, cabbage plants are examined in the phase of head formation and compaction, examining 5 plants in 20 places in a checkerboard pattern on the field.​
• Cabbage and other cruciferous crops (radish, forehead) are damaged by insect pests throughout the growing season, but cabbage pests are most dangerous in the early period of plant development.
• - increase the temperature in the room.

The last stage of soil preparation is the application of fertilizers. For 10 kg of disinfected substrate, add urea or ammonium nitrate 15-20 g, granular superphosphate 20-25 g, potassium sulfate 10 g and 25 g lime. If these ingredients are not available, 30-35 g of nitroammophoska can be added to the soil mixture.

- region of cultivation,

Preparation of soil mixture for seedlings of cabbage

© Natalia ZASTENKINA, agronomist and vegetable grower with experience

• I shoot heads in late October - early November, when at least three frosts have passed. Low temperatures, in my opinion, improve the taste of the cabbage, making the forks juicy, crispy and sweet.​
• The beneficial properties of cabbage are known not only to man. Judging by how many pests want to eat this crop, it can be assumed that they are also aware of the value of a dietary vegetable.
• Brussels sprouts are a plant with a stem up to 60 centimeters high and with long-leaved leaves, in the axils of which small heads of cabbage weighing up to 15 g are formed. There can be up to 70 such heads on a plant. Compared to other species, Brussels sprouts are the most cold-resistant, it is not afraid short-term drop in temperature to -7 ° C.​

Note:

Scoop butterflies can be caught on molasses or bonfires lit at night (they are attracted to light).

The mixture is stirred and disinfected by one of the available methods:

• Common pests of cabbage, radish, turnip, rapeseed and other cabbage (cruciferous) crops.
• Since spring, cabbage seedlings can be destroyed by cruciferous fleas, underground parts of plants are damaged by cabbage fly larvae and caterpillars of gnawing scoops (scoop with black), cabbage leaves damage caterpillars of cabbage scoops, gamma scoops, turnip whites and cabbage moths:
• More than 6 types of pests destroy the crop crop: cruciferous fleas, cabbage fly, cabbage moth, cabbage scoop and cabbage white, cabbage aphid, etc.

​7-10 days before filling containers for sowing, the soil mixture dried after disinfection is treated with antifungal (black leg, bacteriosis, etc.) biological preparations phytosporin, alirin, hamair according to the recommendations. In the moistened mixture, add the dry preparation "Emochka-Bokashi" or another containing useful microflora. Beneficial microorganisms help to improve the composition of the soil and at the same time destroy the pathogenic microflora. Careful preparation of the soil mixture ensures seedlings with a healthy root system.​

- date of sowing and planting in the ground (data are indicative),

Terms of sowing cabbage for seedlings

• In recent years, I began to notice that the quality of my crop depends primarily ... on pests! No matter how the soil is prepared for planting, no matter what fertilizers are used, but if timely care is not taken to destroy various pests, all work can easily go down the drain! The cruciferous flea is one of my crop rivals. Very
• Those that are intended for fresh storage, I cut off a little earlier (10 days), trying to keep the upper green leaves intact. I keep the forks of the one intended for pickling as long as possible, they make delicious cabbage.
• Cruciferous fleas

Another feature of Brussels sprouts is that at temperatures above + 25 ° C, the formation and filling of sprouts slows down and their taste is noticeably reduced. He likes abundant and regular watering, however, thanks to a powerful root system, it tolerates a lack of moisture better than other types of cabbage. In addition, it gives the best yields on relatively light, well-drained soils with a high nutrient content, requires deep tillage before planting, a minimum feeding area of ​​60x70 cm, and does not require hilling, since it forms adventitious roots with difficulty.

When growing seedlings with subsequent picking, the seeds are sown more densely, since seedlings at the initial stage of growth have a fairly small feeding area.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

The biological way to deal with the cabbage scoop is to release a trichogram on plants that destroys scoop eggs.

Temperature regime

Adults have a body length of 5 to 10 mm, 3-segmented tarsi, 5-segmented antennae attached to the lower surface of the head. The body of the bugs is motley, with a color that differs depending on the type of bugs. The rapeseed cruciferous bug (Eurydema oleracea L.) has distinct spots and stripes of whitish, orange or red color (in the photo, click to enlarge).​

• The cabbage aphid sucks the juice from the leaves, they shrivel, the plant stops growing.
• Seedlings are treated with biopreparations Intavir and Fitoverm in the tank mixture when the first pests appear. With leaf-eating, different types of moths, cruciferous flea, whitefish, bitoxibacillin, lepidocid, dendrobacillin are effective. Chemical preparations cannot be used on cabbage, as they remain inside the emerging head or inflorescence.

Picking seedlings of cabbage

​- Early varieties we sow cabbage for seedlings in late February-early March,

Caring for cabbage seedlings

Lighting and watering

- approximate cleaning times.

She loves planting cabbage, radish, radish and other crops of this family. Lives everywhere; but! These small pests, during mass reproduction, can completely destroy cultivated plants in a few days: they eat leaves, turning them simply into lacy “napkins.”

Do not injure the lady

Treatment for diseases and pests

Disease protection

We have to start the “battle for the harvest” already at the seedling stage. As soon as the seeds in the ground begin to germinate, cruciferous fleas enter the warpath. These small bugs live and winter in the soil, in plant debris, in greenhouses and greenhouses. In the spring, they get out into the sun and begin to harm. In anticipation of cabbage seedlings, they are interrupted by cruciferous weeds, and when the first sprouts appear, they switch to cabbage. Most auspicious time for their wrecking - dry and sunny weather. Gnawing the top layer of young cabbage leaves under hot sunlight is a real pleasure! And at the first sign of rain and when it gets cold, you can hide under the underside of a leaf or under a lump of earth. It is necessary to fight these pests by spraying seedlings and adult plants with chlorophos (200 mg per 1 liter of water), Iskra, Aktara and others. You can use triple dusting with DCT dust (15 g per 10 m2) or a mixture of sodium silicofluoride with furnace ash (1: 1) - when fleas appear, and then with an interval of 5 days.

For Brussels sprouts, a technique such as growing is often used. The specimens that have not had time to ripen are dug up in the fall along with the roots and grown in a greenhouse or basement, setting the plants close to each other in a container with well-moistened soil. For rearing, a temperature of +3.. .5 ° С and diffused lighting is sufficient.​

• The depth of seed placement is up to 2 cm. After sowing, the soil is watered abundantly. When sowing seeds in separate pots, the soil in them is moistened, the seeds are laid out in 2 pieces in recesses and covered with a mixture of peat and sand (1: 1).
• The use of microbiological preparations (Lepidocid, Bitoxibacillin, Dipel) is carried out with the number of caterpillars from 2 to 7 on 50 plants. Chemical preparations (Actellik, Bazudin, Biorin, Diazinon, Zeta, Inta-vir, Karbofos, Kinmiks, Fitoverm, Fosbecid) are used when the economic threshold of harmfulness is reached - more than 7 caterpillars on 50 plants.
• Adult bugs overwinter in vegetable gardens, in ravines, thickets of weeds, forest litter. In late April - early May, the bugs begin to feed on cabbage weeds and early cabbage vegetables - radishes, cabbage seedlings, etc. At the beginning of summer, females lay eggs, from which larvae appear after 1-2 weeks. A month later, adult bugs appear. In central Russia, cruciferous bugs give one generation a year, in the south one of the species - a decorated bug - can give two generations.
• With a strong infection, a kachan may not start. Seed plants of cabbage and other cruciferous plants are damaged by rapeseed leaf beetles and cruciferous bugs.

Pest protection

With poor development, cabbage seedlings are fed in the phase of 2-3 leaves with a solution of chicken manure or mullein. In their absence, the first top dressing is carried out with a solution of 20 g of ammonium nitrate, 20-25 g of granulated water-soluble superphosphate, 5-10 g of potassium chloride per bucket of water. This complex solution can be replaced by dissolving 30-35 g of nitroammophoska in 10 liters of water. We carry out the second top dressing in the same composition after 10-12 and the third (if necessary) after 15-20 days. After foliar feeding, be sure to wash the plants with water and mulch the soil.

- average from the third decade of March to the end of April,

top dressing

It is best to grow cabbage of all ripening periods in the home garden, and in order to occupy less area for cultivation, use thickened plantings.

Hardening seedlings of cabbage

Those heads of cabbage that go to storage must be strong and healthy, without any damage. It is necessary to cut or cut them down carefully, with the longest stalk and green, loosely fitting leaves. It is better to immediately put them aside in a separate pile and let the outer leaves wilt slightly. Heads of cabbage should be treated with care: do not throw or injure them.

Characteristics of cabbage seedlings before planting in the ground

cabbage fly

BTW!

Before germination, boxes and pots are kept without watering at room temperature, then the temperature is reduced to + 7 ... 8 ° C for 3-4 days. Subsequent maintenance is recommended at maximum light and daytime temperature not higher than + 16 ° C.​

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Pests of cabbage seedlings - Plant Magic

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​Unlike their more "hardy" relatives, Brussels sprouts do not keep for more than 10 days, so freezing is the best way to store them for a long time.​

cabbage pests. Cabbage Pest Control

The picking of seedlings from boxes into separate pots is carried out after the appearance of the first true leaflet, then the seedlings are watered with water at room temperature. After 10 days, foliar top dressing is given with complex mineral fertilizer. An adult is a black beetle with a long and thin rostrum, body length 3 mm. Beetles hibernate under leaf litter, plant debris and in the soil. They appear in spring, in central Russia - usually in early May, feed first on cabbage weeds, then on cultivated plants. Damage caused by adults does not significantly affect the growth and development of plants.

The main and most dangerous pest of seedlings of cabbage and other cabbage crops is radish, radish, turnip, turnip, mustard, rapeseed. Very small jumping beetles 2-3 mm long. The wavy, notched and light-legged (pictured) cruciferous fleas on the elytra ("on the back") have two yellow longitudinal narrow stripes. The blue cruciferous flea has dark blue or green elytra.

White cabbage. ©librariansarah​

The proposed sowing dates for cabbage seeds are approximate and depend on the variety, ripening time, lighting, and temperature conditions of the region. When sowing, be guided by the length of the growing season of the crop. Early ripe varieties are ready for harvesting in 90-120 days, medium 150-170 and late 160-180 days. It is possible to sow each species at a time at one time or carry out conveyor sowing of seeds of each species with a gap of 10-12 days. Then there will always be fresh cabbage salad on the table.

Cruciferous flea (cabbage)

Cabbage has very delicate, easily damaged leaves, so you need to think in advance how you will grow seedlings:

You can use a mixture of tobacco powder and wood ash (1: 1). By the way, it is on sale if you do not have the opportunity to cook it yourself. Plants and the ground around them are sprayed or watered with water and sprinkled with this mixture. I can open a little secret. It is very convenient to use nylon stockings or tights: pour the mixture there and, shaking it over the plants, pollinate them.

Already cut heads of cabbage cannot be kept in the sun for a long time before storage: they quickly wither, lose their juiciness and crunch.

Fighting cruciferous flea

can be recognized by the wilting of the leaves and their coloring in a lilac-gray hue. In the fight against cabbage fly, the same DCT will help us to pollinate seedlings once a week for 2-3 weeks. You can get rid of the larvae by watering the cabbage under the root with a solution of chlorophos at a concentration of 0.3%, thiophos at a concentration of 0.03%, treating the plants with a solution of karbofos (10 g per 10 l of water).

Kohlrabi differs from other types of cabbage in that it does not form either a head or a head. Its turnip-like stem is formed from the lower part of the stem and is surrounded by petiole leaves. Its diameter is most often 10-15 cm. Kohlrabi grows well on all types of soil, requires high soil moisture and medium temperatures. It differs from other types of cabbage in its high precocity, due to which it can produce two or three crops per season.

10 days before planting seedlings on the beds, plants are hardened off. In the same period, a second foliar top dressing is carried out - organic fertilizer. In warm weather, seedlings are taken out for the whole day Fresh air, and in the last 3 days before disembarking, they leave it for the night.

The danger is represented by the larvae of the secretive proboscis, which appear by the end of May from eggs laid in the stem or leaf veins. Larvae are white, legless, with a large yellow head, body length up to 5 mm. The larvae gnaw through passages in the petiole of the leaf and penetrate into the stem of young plants, where they also make passages, descending to the root. In this case, the conducting system of plants is damaged, the leaves turn yellow. Depending on the degree of damage, plants are stunted or die.

To prevent the mass appearance of fleas on garden plots and vegetable gardens, weeds from the Cabbage family should be regularly weeded: shepherd's purse, field yaruka, rape, sverbig (which is loved by the people for tasty young stems), beetroot, chickweed, etc. After harvesting cabbage crops, you need to collect and destroy plant residues (dry and burn them). Great importance has an early planting of seedlings of cabbage.

cabbage aphid

After overwintering in the surface layer of the soil, under fallen leaves, crevices of greenhouses, greenhouses, and other places, the beetles wake up in early spring, as soon as the soil thaws. First, adults feed on cabbage weeds (shepherd's purse, field yaruka, rape, etc.), then they switch to shoots of cabbage vegetables and planted seedlings. They damage young leaves (especially the first ones - cotyledons), gnawing small holes in them, which leads to drying of the leaves and death of plants. In the light-footed cruciferous flea, the larvae also harm, biting into the leaves and mining them (making moves of various shapes).

We plant early seedlings in open ground at 45-55 days of age. Plants have an elastic squat stem, 5-7 leaves with a monophonic leaf blade, without spots, a well-developed fibrous-branched root.

Broccoli seedlings. ©Susy Morris​

- without a pick,

The fight against cabbage aphids

A mixture of wood ash and slaked lime (1:1, 20-30 g per m2) or ground black pepper is effective. Inter-rows are being processed. Pollination of plants with pepper should be done in the morning by dew. And in dry weather, it is very good to spray the plants with a solution of vinegar. To do this, dilute 1-2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of 70% vinegar essence.

Then, when laying in the basement, the stalk is shortened to 3 cm, and excess and damaged covering leaves are removed from the head of cabbage, leaving 2-3 to protect the fork from bruises and dirt. According to my observations, those heads of cabbage that are uprooted and chopped off before laying in the basement are stored longer.

Cabbage white

Diseases and pests of cabbage can destroy the entire crop. To prevent a problem, you need to know the main signs, methods of treatment and preventive measures. If an infection is detected at the initial stage, all plantings can be protected.

Here are the most common diseases of cabbage seedlings and an adult plant that you need to know how to prevent and start treatment on time when the first signs are found.

One of the common diseases is cabbage keel. The fungus affects only young seedlings of white cabbage planted in a greenhouse or open ground. The causative agent of clubroot is carried to cabbage beds by wind or rain, and insects can also spread.

Initially, the root branches begin to be damaged. Growths appear on them, which prevent them from fully absorbing moisture and essential trace elements. As a result, the cabbage wilts and develops poorly.

Infection is easier to prevent than to fight it. To do this, you need to strictly select seedlings, you do not need to plant weak seedlings. The soil where cabbage is supposed to be planted must be disinfected. Regular watering, hilling, loosening and lime dressing will help prevent the disease.

If an infection has been detected, then cabbage and other cruciferous vegetables cannot be planted on the site for 5-7 years. That is how long it takes for the activity of the infection to disappear.

In open ground, cabbage can often be attacked by downy mildew (experts call the disease peronosporosis). The first symptoms of the disease include:

• the formation of light yellow spots on cabbage leaves;
• a white coating is observed on the inside of the cabbage leaf;
• leaves affected by the fungus wither, fall off;
• cabbage develops poorly.

The fungus is active in a humid environment. The infection spreads very quickly, so urgent action is needed. You can treat cabbage with drugs such as Fitoftorin or Bordeaux mixture. A good result shows the drug Topaz.

Preventive actions should include proper watering, disinfection of the soil, maintaining a distance during transplanting seedlings. Another main condition is that cabbage cannot be planted in the same place for several years in a row. It is better to plant where potatoes, beans or cucumbers were previously harvested.

Fusarium disease is considered common among cabbage. The fight against a fungal infection should not cause any difficulties, provided that the infection was detected in time. The first signs of the disease are:

• numerous yellow spots appear between the veins of the leaves;
• gradually the entire surface of the cabbage leaf begins to turn yellow and as a result dries out;
• the head of cabbage is poorly and slowly formed, while the shape is deformed.

Provokes the disease lack of soil moisture and not too warm weather(below 18 degrees).

Sick cabbage should be removed from the garden along with roots and an earthy clod. The remaining vegetables and soil must be disinfected. For this purpose, drugs Benomyl, Topsin are used. You can use potassium permanganate or copper sulfate.

Another disease of cabbage is Alternariosis or otherwise called black spot. When infected, black spots appear on any part of the plant. As the disease spreads, the spots darken, a fungal coating appears.

Black spot is spread by pests that overwinter in the remains of vegetable crops and seeds. Therefore, it is so important after harvesting in the fall to remove the tops and dig up the soil. Cabbage seeds must be disinfected and heat treated before planting.

Fungal disease Black leg leads to rotting of the roots and lower stem of seedlings. As a result, the stem dries up, and the plant withers and dies. The infection is quickly transmitted to healthy sprouts.

The development of a fungal infection is facilitated by high acidity of the soil or excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers. The fungus may remain from the last crop in the soil.

To prevent the development of a black leg before planting seedlings, the ground must be disinfected, a solution of potassium permanganate is suitable, you can simply pour hot water over the area. Cabbage seeds are recommended to be treated with special preparations, for example, Fundazol is suitable.

Cabbage disease White rot is also quite common. The most important factors in the development of rot are excessive watering and frequent rains. The risk of developing the disease increases towards the end of the growing season.

Recognizing the signs of white rot is easy. Fungal plaque and mucus are observed on the leaves. White cabbage rots quickly. The disease can develop not only in the garden, but also during the storage of an already harvested crop.

Timely harvesting is considered preventive measures, before the start of autumn rains, you should not plant cabbage for several years in a row in the same place. Be sure to disinfect the place where the harvested crop will be stored.

During winter storage, heads of cabbage are often exposed to gray rot. The leaves are covered with a gray coating, mucus is observed, an unpleasant odor is felt. In the cellar or basement, it is imperative to carry out disinfection, maintain the temperature regime. During the growth of cabbage, fertilizers must be applied to the soil.

Dangerous viruses

Less common, but still found among the cabbage viral diseases. They propagate at an even faster rate than fungal infection and have a detrimental effect on the entire crop.

The mosaic virus is considered the most dangerous. Numerous small dark dots form on the leaves. Mosaic is not treatable, so it is best to take time to prevent the disease:

• cabbage seeds must be immersed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for the purpose of disinfection;
• when a diseased seedling appears in the garden, it must be uprooted and carried away from the garden;
• a prerequisite is the removal of weeds that can carry pathogens;
• spray several times a season plants from pests.

Black ring spot of cabbage appears as light green spots. Over time, the spots darken, connect, the sheet is deformed and falls off. The causative agent feels great in the cold, hibernating on seeds or plant debris. The disease is also spread by pests (aphids and mites).

Before planting seeds, they must be disinfected and subjected to heat treatment. Weeds and tops from last year need to be removed from the beds on time.

Cause in bacteria

Mucous bacteriosis of cabbage can affect a plant at any stage of development. Rotting can start from the outer leaves. They resemble a mucous structure and smell unpleasant. Gradually, the entire head of cabbage is exposed to rotting.

There is an option to start rotting from the inside of the head. Bacteria can be carried by pests or get along with the ground. The leaves become milky and soften.

The cause of the disease can be excessive fertilization of the soil with nitrogen, excessive moisture, lack of proper care for the beds.

As preventive measures, one can include the choice of cabbage varieties resistant to this disease, the timely processing of vegetable crops from pests, compliance with the conditions in the storage room, and the disinfection of planting material.

Vascular bacteriosis is spread by pests or falls on cabbage beds during rainy weather. The first signs are yellowing of the edges of the leaves and blackening of the veins. A characteristic feature is the appearance on the leaves of a pattern in the form of a grid. Then the leaf completely darkens and disappears. Cabbage stops growing and developing, as a result, it dies.

You should not plant cabbage on the same plot of land every year, you should choose varieties that are resistant to vascular bacteriosis.

Be sure to carry out preventive treatments against pests. It is possible to treat at the initial stage with the drug Binoram.

If any diseases of white cabbage are detected, the fight against them must begin immediately. This will help save not only the diseased plant, but the entire crop in the garden plot.

Pest Invasion

Pests and diseases can cause a decrease in yield or its complete loss. White cabbage pests not only eat and damage cabbage plantations, but also carry diseases, which is why regular preventive watering and spraying are so important.

Aphids often attack cabbage in the spring, when young seedlings have just been transplanted. You can identify the problem by the following signs:

• cabbage begins to develop slowly;
• leaves become pale with a pink tint;
• over time, the leaves become deformed and fall off.

To combat aphids, drugs such as Spark, Corsair, Karate are often used. It is useful to plant cabbage beds next to tomatoes and carrots. From folk remedies, infusions based on garlic and onions are considered effective. Their smell is not liked by insects.

Cabbage can be attacked by the cabbage fly. Insect about 6 mm in size, gray color. The danger to the vegetable is the larvae that the fly lays in the soil. A week later, the larvae begin to eat the root system first, and then proceed to eating the stems, making moves in them. White larvae are up to 8 mm long. In addition, they can cause the development of a viral, fungal or bacterial disease.

The appearance of cabbage will tell you about the invasion of flies:

• the roots begin to rot and the plant is easily pulled out of the ground;
• leaves wither, grow poorly;
• the lower row of leaves darkens, acquires a grayish tint.

A solution of Chlorophos or Thiophos helps from a cabbage fly, as well as drugs such as Corsair, Rovikurt. The people are trying to cope with the insect with a mixture of tobacco and lime.

The bollworm can cause the loss of an entire cabbage crop in a matter of days. In the daytime, she hides in cabbage leaves, and with the onset of night, she begins to be active. The insect looks like a butterfly, about 5 cm in size. The wings are light brown in color with white stripes and spots. The caterpillars of these butterflies bring the greatest danger. They are green with yellow stripes.

When a cabbage scoop is found, it is necessary to treat the beds with insecticides such as Sumicidin, Cyanox. To prevent the invasion of butterflies, you need to pluck weeds in time and dig up the ground in the fall.