How to pull a drill out of a drill. How to change the drill in a drill so that attempts are not in vain? Video: do-it-yourself drilling machine from a drill

An electric drill is an indispensable tool attribute for both a home master and a professional. Without this tool, it is difficult to carry out any work related to the production of something, as well as installation, dismantling, and so on.

Breakage of a drill even of a famous brand, in the end, sometimes happens. And one of the most common options for the breakdown of this power tool is the failure of the cartridge: both key and self-clamping.

Sooner or later, any part, assembly or any mechanism becomes unusable.

In modern drills, such as Makita, Interskol, Bosch, and so on, the fastening of the drill and other cutting tools, as well as all kinds of nozzles, is carried out by a cam-type device . The cam mechanism consists of 3 or 4 cams, through which the tool is held in the drill chuck. If the device is quick-clamping, then the mechanism is tightened by hand, and if it is a key one, with a special key.

There are also collet devices, but they are more applicable in the production of metalworking. All kinds of tools necessary for the work are clamped in them.

Reasons for replacement:

Beating during rotation. This indicates wear on the cams or front shaft bearings.
Shaft rotation. The reason is damage to the thread if the chuck is threaded, or wear of the tool cone.

In both cases, it needs to be replaced.

Beating is a harmful and unsafe phenomenon, it can be characterized as follows:

Doesn't hold up well cutting tool in a drill, or some kind of equipment.
Drills wedge (in the case when the cone is worn out).
Holes are irregularly shaped.
Drill shanks wear out.

How to remove a chuck from an electric drill

The chuck can be attached to the spindle as follows:

Cone mount. When a Morse taper (tool taper) is used. In this case, the shaft is made in the form of a cone, well polished, and its fitting requires minimum effort. Marking example: B10, where B is symbol cone, and the number 10 is the diameter of the cutting tool shank. This fastening is most often found in screwdrivers.
Threaded mount. The thread is metric and inch. If the M13 marking is embossed on the cartridge body, then the thread is metric, 13 mm. If it is an inch - UNF indicating the diameter of ½ inch.

However, in order to protect the user at 100%, the manufacturer of imported drills also fixes the chuck with a screw, which serves as a stopper and securely fastens it to the shaft.

The screw has a left-hand thread and very often, when inexperienced people repair a drill, the slot on the screw for a screwdriver is unknowingly torn off, believing that there is a standard right-hand thread - so you need to unscrew it clockwise.

Knowing design features own drill, removing the chuck is not a big problem.

To change this element you need to prepare the following tools:

Pipe wrench No. 2.
Medium sized hammer. Approximately 400-500 gr.
Spanners.
Caliper No. 1, 2 or 3.
Screwdriver with the desired shape and section of the blade.
File personal or velvet.
Sandpaper.

This list contains minimum set tool. It is very possible that during the work you will need something extra.

Threaded connection

Dismantling procedure:

Having fixed that part of the equipment on which the cams are with a pipe (gas) wrench No. 2, you need to turn the shaft. The cartridge should easily unscrew after such a "persistent" intervention.

Tool cone connection: dismantling step by step

Such dismantling is carried out using a hammer and a non-ferrous metal drift: brass, bronze, aluminum, copper. However, hammers of this type are still found.

Soft metal will not bring damage to the equipment in the form of nicks and deformations.

You need to do the following:

Hold the drill with the handle up.
On the back side of the cartridge, tap gently around the entire circumference with a hammer.
After the device is dismantled, you need to clean the cone with fine sandpaper. Remove large nicks, if any, with a file.
A new cartridge is inserted into its regular place and fixed with a blow of a wooden hammer (mallet).

For old drills made back in Soviet period Let's use another method. In them, on the shaft, there is a rather large gap between the tool body and the chuck, and flats are made on the shaft.

Locksmiths, as a rule, acted as follows:

Inserted the key into these grooves.
The clamping tool was dismantled with a hammer blow on the open-end wrench.

The method, of course, is not the safest, given that the key can fly off along an unplanned trajectory by the locksmith and cause injury. There is another type of drill, where a slot is made in the body, into which a wedge is inserted to knock out the cartridge. Such drills may have two cones: one in the chuck and the other in the drill. These tools are impressive in size and weight.

Drills with a taper are considered to be more accurate in demanding drilling because the Morse taper is made with a high degree accuracy.

In addition, the conical chuck can be removed with a puller, since in each such drill, where there is not even a threaded hole for the lock screw, there is a through hole. And if you use a puller with a central pin and rest it against this hole, then by fixing on its counterpart with hooks in the form of powerful hooks, you can also remove a firmly attached cartridge. Such pullers remove, for example, bearings.

Replacement for drills Interskol

Drill Interskol is very convenient, has an ergonomic handle. The low price is also a frequent reason for choosing it by customers.

poses no problem:

You can not strike with a hammer on the cartridge itself: you can not only break it, but also deform the spindle. This will lead to the fact that you will need to disassemble the entire drill and repair it already in a specialized workshop.

On some models of a drill of this brand, on the spindle (axis) on which the chuck is mounted, there are special grooves (flats) for an open-end wrench. This allows you to securely fix the axis before unscrewing.

If there are no grooves, and the hex wrench method did not help, it is best to partially disassemble the drill by unscrewing all the screws and removing the tool body cover.

You can fix the shaft as follows:

Clamp the large gear of the gearbox and the fan impeller with the palm of your hand. Of course, it is better to work in durable gloves.
Open the tool.

Having removed the old tool, the installation of the new assembly must be done in the reverse order, not forgetting to lubricate the threads of the spindle and screw.

It is highly undesirable to use Litol-type lubricants, because when the next replacement comes, the difficulties will be even greater than if the threads were not lubricated at all. This should be done with graphite grease or just machine oil.

How to remove the keyless chuck

This type of equipment was invented by Bosch. These types of devices are widely used in many drills from Bosch, Makita, Hitachi, as well as in screwdrivers. They allow you to easily and effortlessly change drills, which is especially convenient when working with a large number of drills.

You will need:

Phillips screwdriver or straight.
Hex key.
A hammer.

It is necessary to unscrew the screw-stop. Screws are for different screwdrivers.
Clamp the hex wrench in the chuck with the short side.
The drill or screwdriver must be placed on the edge of the table (workbench), so that the device does not lie on the table.
With a hammer blow on the not clamped edge of the hexagon, we strike a sharp blow. Direction is counterclockwise.

Parsing step by step instructions

Sometimes it becomes necessary to disassemble it for the following reasons:

Severe contamination.
The cartridge jammed.
Cam wear.

Practice shows that the simplest and most common method of disassembly is feasible with a puncher.

Step-by-step instruction:

We remove the boot from the perforator.
Insert a small adapter.
We push the cams of the perforator inward, expanding the cartridge to the maximum.
Between the cartridge and the wall we lay some kind of shock-absorbing material, a piece of structured polystyrene, for example, or rubber.
We press the puncher together with the disassembled cartridge and shock absorber against the wall.
Turn on the perforator by setting it to impact mode.
After a few seconds, the details of the cartridge will be untwisted, that is, the cartridge is disassembled.
Now you should remove the cams and make a visual inspection.

If a drill was used to drill walls, then there is a high probability that dust, cement, small particles bricks and so on. It is necessary to remove all debris, if necessary, rinse the parts with kerosene. Then, after wiping the parts, lubricate them with grease.

It is important not to swap the cams. In order to avoid this, you should use the marking, signing each of them, as well as the seats.

Move the fists forward.
We install a nut (consists of two crackers), with the help of which you can unscrew and screw the cartridge into place with a key.
We hide the cams inside the device by unscrewing it.
Install the cartridge holder in place.
We press the clip. It can be done different ways, for example, using lathe. In this case, the front part of the tool is clamped into the chuck of the machine, and the back part is pressed by the tailstock. A simpler "home" method is as follows: a massive metal plate is taken, on which the equipment to be disassembled is placed. A thick washer made of non-ferrous metal is placed on its upper part. Applying light blows with a hammer on the puck, we press the clip into place.

The unit is ready for further operation.

There was such a thing in the house right tool like a drill.

Drill used for drilling various types materials, therefore it is necessary to change drills very often.

The first holes are drilled, and the drill needs to be changed. How to pull a drill out of a drill with your own hands correctly?

In all types of drills, the drill is installed in a special chuck. With this tool, the drill is attached to a rotating shaft, and rotary motion required for drilling. In such a type of drill as a hammer drill, it also provides translational (impact) movement of the drill. Almost all drills use cam-type mechanisms.

The chuck consists of a hollow body in the form of a cylinder, along which the adjusting sleeve or ring moves. Cams with a conical cut are installed inside the housing, which move along guides that provide forward movement cams during rotation of the adjusting element. Due to the taper, the cams converge evenly relative to each other when moving upwards, or evenly diverge when moving downwards.

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Attaching a drill to a drill

To install the cartridge on the drill shaft in its lower part, a hole is made along the diameter of the shaft. Fastening can be due to a threaded connection or holes with a taper and a tight fit of the cartridge on the shaft, which has a reverse taper.

The drill is inserted in the center into the space between the cams. When the cams converge (clockwise rotation of the adjusting element), the drill is fixed in the chuck, and when the cams diverge, on the contrary, it is released. To ensure reliable fastening, it is necessary to exert considerable effort when rotating the adjusting element.

According to the method of fixing the drill, the chucks are divided into ordinary (key) and quick-clamping. In the key, the adjusting ring is moved and tightened using a special key. When the key is rotated clockwise, the drill is fixed in the chuck. An adjusting sleeve is installed in the quick-clamping sleeve, the surface of which is corrugated for ease of rotation by hand. By manually rotating the sleeve clockwise, the drill is fixed in the chuck.

There are two types of keyless chucks: with one sleeve and with two sleeves. If only one sleeve is provided in the design, then it rotates relative to the drill body, which must be fixed motionless during installation. When using two sleeves, one of them is movable, adjusting, and the other is fixed. The rotation of the adjusting sleeve is carried out relative to the second sleeve, which must be fixed when installing the drill. In the design of the cartridge, to limit the tightening force, additional elements can be used in the form of a ratchet (located inside) or a locking spring mechanism with a button (the button enters a special socket from the outside).

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Causes of difficulty in extracting the drill

Types of drills: a - spiral centerless; b - spiral with a center and cutters; c - spiral with a screw center; g - feather center; d - center; e - gimlet; g - countersinking; h - slot; and - cork.

In the process of working with a drill, sometimes difficulties arise when replacing a drill associated with removing a previously used drill from a cartridge. This problem can be of varying degrees of complexity, depending on the cause. The simplest and most common reason is the application of excessive force when clamping the drill, in the absence of restrictive mechanisms in the chuck design. Such a phenomenon most often occurs when using the impact method of impact to tighten the drill in the final stage, for example, the use of a mallet. Jamming of the drill can also occur if it is forcefully tightened when it is incorrectly placed in the space between the cams. This is typical when using a small diameter drill.

A more complex tool jamming mechanism can occur when using a low-quality drill. So, if it is made of a soft material, then when it is rotated, metal chips may appear, removed from the surface, which clogs the gap between the cams and the drill, as well as between the cams. This can make it difficult to spread the cams when trying to loosen the drill. Difficulties in removal may occur if the drill sinks too deep into the chuck during operation. The task becomes more complicated if the drill, in addition to such jamming, also broke at the level of the upper end of the cartridge.

The reason for the breakage of the drill in the drill chuck can be a violation of the drilling mode.

The reason for the destruction, in addition to the use of low-quality material, may be a violation of the drilling mode: an unexpected tilt of the drill, excessive vertical load, an attempt to drill a heavy-duty material, etc.

Finally, the reason that the drill cannot be removed may be the jamming of the cartridge itself. It should be noted a few possible causes. The first reason, not related to the failure of the cartridge, is due to the ingress of foreign particles that impede movement into the area of the threaded connection of the regulating element and the body. Such particles can be dirt, metal dust or small chips, etc. In this case, it is not possible to ensure the rotation of the adjusting sleeve or key.

The reason that you can not get the drill, may be the failure of the cartridge. This can be caused by both the presence of a factory defect and temporary wear of the cams or the regulating element. The reason may also be the failure of the spring locking mechanism, which does not release the regulating element when the button is pressed.

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Easy drill removal

In order to remove the drill from the chuck, it is necessary to turn the adjusting sleeve.

In normal mode, the issue of extraction is solved very simply. By turning the adjusting sleeve or the key counterclockwise, the cams are moved apart, after which the drill is removed. In the presence of a locking mechanism, rotation begins by pressing the lock button. When the adjusting element is rotated, the body of the drill (chuck with one sleeve) or the fixed sleeve (chuck with two sleeves) is fixed by hand.

If it is not possible to turn the sleeve or key immediately, then it is necessary to try to increase the load or create an amplified initial load impulse. The first attempt is to set the movement with a sharp jerk of the right hand, while ensuring the fixation of the drill with the left hand. The next attempt is a light hand strike on the key vertically or a palm strike on the sleeve in a tangential direction to the surface of the sleeve. If the manual method of influence did not help to pull out the drill, then you should resort to using a mallet or a light hammer (preferably rubber). Impacts are made with this tool on the key or sleeve. The impact force increases as needed. To increase the force impact, it is advisable to introduce lubricant (oil) into the zone of the cams before impacts.

It is difficult to imagine a house where there is no electric drill. It is the favorite instrument of almost every man.

Usually the user does not worry about the drill, the tool works for itself, and let it work. But then a strong beating of the drill appeared or the mechanism of its clamp jammed, repairs loomed on the horizon. There was a need to remove or even disassemble the cartridge. This is where some inexperienced craftsmen will need advice on how to do the necessary work without ruining the drill completely and irrevocably. To get started, you should familiarize yourself with information about the types of cartridges and how to mount them on a drill.

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Design features

Main types of cartridges for household drills the following:

keyless or BZP, easy to use, allowing you to easily and quickly change the tool, but strength and durability are not too high; nevertheless, drills with keyless chucks (with one or two clutches) are deservedly popular;
gear-crown, requiring the use of a special key.

There are also other varieties, such as SDS + and SDS-max from Bosch. But it is not worth dwelling on this issue in detail, since the type of chuck according to the method of clamping the drill does not affect the method of attaching the chuck to the drill spindle.

Mounting the chuck on the spindle of an electric drill

Actually, There are two mounting methods:

conical conjugation;
threaded connection.

You can find out the type of fastening by marking:

the inscriptions B10, B12, B18, etc. characterize the parameters of the Morse taper, the special shape of the mating surfaces (there are 9 standard sizes from B7 to B45 in total); before this designation mark the range of diameters of drill shanks, for example, 1-6 V10;
type designations 1−15 M13×1.3; characterizing the parameters of a metric thread (drill shank diameter, thread diameter and thread pitch);
abbreviations UNF (the full marking is similar in structure to the metric thread marking, for example, 2-13 mm ½ - UNF, where ½ indicates the thread diameter in inches, and the number 20 characterizes the number of threads per one inch), which indicates fastening with an inch thread ; this type of connection is typical for imported instruments.

Technology for removing the chuck from an electric drill

To perform this operation the following tools may be required:

The tool is removed from the chuck first. The key chuck can also be unlocked without a key by inserting a drill shank into the hole.

Dismantling with conical interface

This pairing option should not cause disassembly difficulties.

If there is a fixing screw, unscrew it.

It is recommended to orient the tool with the drill down and remove the cartridge with light taps hammer (to protect mechanisms from damage, a better option is to hit the cartridge case with a rubber or wooden mallet through a gasket - an open-end wrench).

If there is a tool for removing bearings, it is better to use it.

Dismantling with a threaded connection

In this case disassembly is as follows:

The cams are recessed as far down as possible, since at the bottom of their nest there is an internal screw head, which must be reached with a screwdriver. However, the presence of a screw is not required.
The screw is unscrewed from the spindle with a screwdriver, the fixing screw has a left-hand thread, that is, it is unscrewed by turning the screwdriver clockwise. If there are difficulties in turning the screw, you can lightly tap on it with a hammer through a screwdriver.
The chuck is unscrewed from the shaft like a regular nut with a right-hand thread, that is, by turning it counterclockwise. If the process is difficult, then the use of two keys is recommended. The spindle is fixed with an open-end wrench, the cartridge is unscrewed with a gas wrench. You can insert a thicker hexagon into the cams and unscrew the cartridge with it.

If the operation still fails, you will have to disassemble the body of the electric drill to provide access to the spindle.

And one more piece of advice: if the screw is damaged during disassembly, then you can buy an adapter

Modern look the drill was acquired in the middle of the second decade of the last century, when two mechanics from Maryland, USA, decided to give it the appearance of a pistol with a trigger button instead of a trigger. Today, this tool occupies a leading place in any construction, a variety of attachments make it versatile and indispensable. But until now, many users do not know how to use a drill correctly - this article will help you find the answer.

The main purpose of any drill is drilling holes in various materials, so all the calculations of the developers of new models of this practical tool are aimed at improving the quality of drilling. The instrument has multiple speeds, for this, a gearbox is used that connects the electric motor to the working shaft. How the gearbox works: by changing the gear ratio of the gearbox, we increase or decrease the speed of rotation of the cutting tool.

Modern drills have 2 modes of operation to their credit.

Simple drilling used when working with wood, tiles.
Hammer drilling used when drilling particularly durable materials: walls made of stone or brick, concrete structures, thick metal.

For such drilling, special drills are used, having soldered hard alloys at the end. To make the drilling process faster, a force of up to 15 kg must be applied to the tool body.

Simple drills of service station mechanics are often used for high-quality car polishing or after painting the car to make the paint look spectacular. Drill polishing of various surfaces is also carried out during home repairs.

Preparation for operation

Experts state the readiness of the tool for subsequent work on the following grounds

the product is plugged into a socket - this applies to a drill powered by an electrical network;
the battery is charged and inserted in the bottom of the device - this applies to a stand-alone tool with batteries;
the required nozzle is installed in the cartridge.

Important! To ensure smooth drilling and smooth edges, the cutting surface must be sharpened with emery before work.

Then, you need to correctly insert the drill into the drill - many users do not know some of the nuances. The hole where the drill is inserted has a depth of only 2 cm, and in order for the drill to rotate smoothly and without beating, it must be accurately fixed. Clamping mechanisms There are two types of this tool:

manual, when tightening is carried out manually;
mechanical - the jaws of the cartridge are fixed using a special key.

Initial drill installation carried out in stages.

We turn the chuck until the jaws move apart a little more than the diameter of the drill being inserted or replaced.
We install the drill into the hole formed until it stops.
We smoothly twist the cartridge and make sure that the drill shank is clamped evenly.
Then tighten the cartridge with your hands or with a key.

When hand tightening, remember that after work, the drill will need to be removed from the chuck, so do not apply excessive force.

Drill change

To change the drill in a drill, you must first completely stop the chuck. Do not slow it down with your hands - you risk getting a temperature injury. To properly pull the drill out of the drill, you need to perform a few simple steps, strictly observing the order. If you have a drill with keyless chuck , then the following procedure should be followed.

Remove your finger from the start button.
After the rotor stops, clamp the lower part of the cartridge with your left hand, and turn the upper part right hand counterclock-wise.
As a result of your actions, the cams of the mechanism will disperse, and you can remove the drill.

When the instrument mechanical tightening of the chuck, then do the following:

insert key;
turn it to loosen the clamp of the jaws;
Next, unscrew the chuck by hand and remove the drill.

So that the key is always near the drill and not lost, fasten it to a special carabiner to the power cord, as shown in the photo.

Operating rules

The drill is a very powerful tool and is considered a source of danger, so when using it, you must follow simple rules.

The workpiece in which you decide to drill a hole must be squeeze in a vise. In no case do not try to hold it with your hands - you can get injured.
Clamp the cutting tool or tooling tightly in the chuck, check how it holds before turning on the tool.
When working with particularly hard materials, the drill should be held with both hands and apply constant pressure to increase the effect of drilling.
The pressure must be done without fanaticism so that the working tool does not jam in the hole, especially when you are drilling large diameter holes. The pressure must be reduced when the cutting tool comes out with reverse side blanks.
Necessarily use gloves and goggles.
Switching of operating modes and replacement of nozzles must be carried out only after the complete cessation of rotation.
Remove metal chips and other drilling waste only with a brush.

On the enlarged freeze-frame, the smallest fragments are perfectly visible, which can injure the unprotected hands of the unfortunate master.

Drilling various holes

Sometimes during repairs there is a need to drill holes at different angles and in various planes, you can do it in the following ways.

Vertical and horizontal planes:

pre-mark the place of drilling;
fix a drill in the product chuck;
bring the drill to the drilling site;
gently press the button and gently press on the device case;
according to the intended hole, make sure that the drill is in the desired plane, then continue drilling;
pull out the drill without turning off the tool;
wait for the rotating cartridge to stop;
put the drill aside.

When you need to drill drill hole perpendicular, and the angle of 90 degrees must be perfect, then a special clamp should be used. The tool is fixed strictly vertically - this is suitable for beginners. For experienced home craftsmen, the original method is suitable:

we put an old compact disk in place of drilling;
we align the cutting tool in such a way that its visible part completely coincides with the reflection in the mirror surface of the disk;
we drill a hole that will be perpendicular without any goniometers.

When to Drill a Precise Hole at an angle, then you can use the rack of the original design, shown in the photo below. Using it is elementary: twist the latches at the right angle, insert the drill and drill any holes.

Drilling in various materials

For high quality and fast drilling metal surface, you need to choose the right drill - the sharpening of the cutting edge is significantly different, as is the steel grade from which the cutting tool is made. When working, it is necessary to set low speed, and the pressure must be strong, but such that the drill does not break. The location of the proposed drilling is marked with a bench punch. It is necessary to make a small recess so that the drill is firmly hooked on the metal and does not “walk” on its surface.

When drilling concrete or brick, you must turn on the shock mode and be sure to use a respirator, because there will be a lot of dust.

To drill through the tile, some craftsmen use a thin wooden plank. We mark the hole on the tile, then attach a wooden gasket and carefully drill so that the delicate surface does not crack. Using this method, you can drill tiles in the bathroom or in the kitchen, set the maximum speed to the drill.

When to make big holes in wood, then use drills with a thicker diameter or special nozzles. Some specialists use a powerful, but low-speed (no more than 600 rpm) drill for twisting screw piles on the homestead. Installation is carried out by the method of gradual indentation into the ground with simultaneous screwing of a pre-assembled pile structure, using special wrench heads of various diameters.

The first electric motor was invented in 1834 by the Russian scientist B.S. Jacobi. In the next 30 years, work tools began to appear based on an electric motor. The first drill began to work in 1868 in the office of the American dentist D. Green. The tool acquired its modern look in 1916, when the mechanics Black and Dekker designed the case in the form of a pistol with a button in place of the trigger.

Today, a drill with attachments has become a versatile tool that is used in dozens of jobs. How to safely use a drill? How to install nozzles, insert and pull out a drill?

What is a drill used for?

The main purpose of an electric drill is drilling various materials. Calculations of technical indicators in the design of new models are carried out on the basis of this task.

During operation, the electric motor rotates the chuck with the drill clamped in it. The speed of movement is regulated using a special rheostat controlled by a start button. The direction of travel can be changed by switching the reverse lever. The function of changing the direction of rotation will help if the drill is stuck at the exit from the material. In addition, with special nozzles, the drill can be used as a screwdriver - to tighten and unscrew the screws.

Often drills have two or more speeds. This is achieved with the help of a gearbox connecting the engine to the working shaft. Changing the gear ratio of the gears of the gearbox leads to a change in the speed of rotation and power of the working tool.

Video: drill - inside view

Power tools in this category have, as a rule, two main modes of operation. Regular mode of drilling and drilling with impact. Regular mode is used during locksmith and carpentry work. Impact drilling is designed for making holes in stone walls, concrete and brick.

The percussion mechanism of the drill consists of two coaxially arranged ratchets, which, when interacting, give the working shaft an additional translational motion. In this case, special drills with carbide tips are used at the end of the working part. The impact force of such a mechanism depends on the external pressure on the drill. To drill quickly, a force of 10-15 kg must be applied to the body.

Preparation for work

The readiness of the drill for work is determined by the following conditions:

the device is connected to a power outlet (for drills powered by an electrical network);
the battery is charged and installed in the compartment (for battery tools);
a drill is installed in the chuck.

Attention! To make the hole smooth, the cutting edge of the drill must be sharply sharpened. Take a new drill or sharpen the old one with a whetstone.

To check the power, you can press the start button. If the chuck rotates quickly, then the motor is supplied with electric current and the tool is ready to work. If the chuck of a cordless drill spins slowly, the battery is discharged - it needs to be charged.

How to insert a drill correctly?

To correctly insert the drill into the chuck, you need to know the following. The hole intended for clamping the tool has a depth of no more than 2 cm. The deeper the drill is planted, the more reliably it will hold in the chuck. Chuck clamping mechanisms are of two types:

manual, tightened by hand;
key, wrapped with a key.

AT last years household models drills are equipped with a manual (keyless) chuck - it is simpler and faster to actuate.

To install the drill in the chuck, follow these steps:

Turn the chuck counterclockwise. Sponges should disperse to a distance slightly more than the diameter of the drill.
Insert the drill between the jaws until it stops.
Gently turn the chuck clockwise, making sure that the drill is clamped evenly on all sides.
Tighten the jaws by hand or wrench.

Attention! Before drilling, turn on the drill and look at the drill. A properly installed tool does not hit and looks like a smooth line.

Video: how to insert a drill and secure it

When fixing the drill in the chuck, considerable effort can be applied, especially if the drill has a large diameter. In this case, it should be remembered that then you will have to do the reverse operation in order to remove the drill or replace it with another one. When clamping the drill, look for the “golden mean”: fasten the drill securely, but so that it can be easily removed from the chuck. The required effort is easily determined after a little practice - muscle memory is turned on.

How to remove the drill from the chuck?

Before removing the drill, make sure that the drill is unplugged, avoid accidentally pressing the button to start the cordless tool. Pull out the drill only after the rotation of the chuck has completely stopped.

Attention! Never brake the chuck with your hands, as this may cause injury.

If the drill is equipped with a keyless chuck, the steps to remove the drill are as follows:

Remove your finger from the start button.
Wait for the complete stop of rotation of the chuck.
Take the cartridge by the base with one hand. Turn it counterclockwise with the other hand.
When the jaws of the chuck are far enough apart, remove the drill.
Carefully place the drill on the table, making sure that it does not roll away.

If the drill is equipped with a keyed chuck, do the following:

Turn off the drill, wait for the chuck to stop.
Insert the key into the chuck hole.
Turn the key counterclockwise until it moves the cartridge.
Unscrew the chuck by hand so that the jaws release the drill.
Remove the drill from the chuck.
Place the key in the hole on the wire so that it is not lost.

Video: how to change the drill

How to use a drill correctly?

A drill is a powerful electric tool that is a source of danger. The basic rules for safe work with a drill are as follows:

Before starting work, securely secure the workpiece in a vice or clamps. Do not hold the item in your hands.
Firmly fasten the drill or tooling in the chuck. Tighten the chuck by hand or tighten with a wrench. Be sure to remove the key from the hole in the chuck.
When working with hard and massive materials, hold the power tool with both hands.
Do not press hard on the body of the drill so that the drill does not jam. Reduce the pressure at the exit of the drill from the workpiece.
Use personal protective equipment: goggles, respirator, gloves.
Switch modes and change the tool only after the chuck has completely stopped.
Sweep away shavings with a brush only.

How to make a vertical or horizontal hole

To make a vertical or horizontal hole, follow these steps:

Mark the location for the hole.
Install a drill of the required diameter into the chuck.
Bring the tool and set the drill to the mark.
Start the engine smoothly and press on the drill body.
When the hole is ready, remove the drill without turning off the motor.
Release the start button, wait for the cartridge to stop.
Place the drill on a flat surface.

Attention! You can not be distracted from work until the hole is completely ready.

How to make a hole perpendicular to the surface or at an angle

If you need to make a hole perpendicular to the surface, you can use a protractor or square. Home craftsmen figured out how to drill a hole at a 90 degree angle to the surface without a goniometer. An old CD is placed on the surface of the workpiece. The drill is aligned so that the visible part of the drill coincides with its reflection in the “mirror” of the disc. In this case, the hole will be made strictly perpendicular to the surface.

If you want the hole to go at an angle to the surface, you need to fix the workpiece at that angle. The most accurate holes will come out if you use a special stand-clamp for a drill.

How to drill metal

Drilling metal surfaces has its own characteristics. First of all, you need to choose a drill designed for these purposes. A wood or stone drill is not suitable for metal, stainless steel or cast iron. These drills differ not only in the grade of steel, but also in the angle of sharpening of the cutting edge.

When working, there is no need to rotate the drill at high speed, the drill will slide over the surface without catching the material. Optimum speed when drilling metal is low when naked eye you can see how thin chips are formed. The pressure on the drill can be significant, but within reasonable limits, so that the drill does not break. When drilling steel and cast iron, it is recommended to lubricate the drill with machine oil for cooling.

In order for the drill to catch on hard material, it is recommended to make a recess at the drilling point with a bench punch. The drill will not lead to the side.

How to drill concrete

When drilling concrete, stone or brick, a lot of dust is released, small fragments can fly out from under the drill. Respiratory protection and eye protection must be used.

Advice. You can reduce the amount of dust by moistening the workpiece or the drilling site with water.

If you need to drill concrete, then the best option would be to use drills equipped with a victorious solder at the end. These drills do the job best and can be sharpened periodically as needed.

The impact mode is incorporated into the design of the drill for drilling stone objects. You need to use the impact mode carefully. If a tile is being drilled, it is not worth turning it on, as the impact will inevitably lead to cracking of the ceramics. The same can be said about a hollow brick - it is dense, but fragile.

Attention! When drilling stone and concrete, the drill gets very hot. Wait until the tool has cooled down before changing the tool to avoid burns.

How to drill wood

Wood is a soft and easy-to-drill material that can be perfectly processed and polished. When drilling wooden products, it is recommended to use special drills for wood.

It is best to start work with markings, marking the place for the hole with a pencil. Next, resting the end of the drill at the intended point, turn on the maximum rotational speed and smoothly immerse the drill into the wood. If the hole is deep, from time to time you need to pull the rotating drill to the surface so that it can free itself from the chips.

Often in modern life you may be faced with the need to make a hole in the plastic. Basically, plastic is drilled in the same way as wood, as it is a soft material. Some synthetic materials (for example, ebonite, textolite, caprolon) have high hardness. For processing such plastics, it is better to use drills designed for metal.

How to make a groove in a wooden board

If you need to make a groove in a wooden board, this can be done with an electric drill.

To make a groove, you need to do the following steps:

Take a drill for wood, the diameter of which corresponds to the width of the future groove.
Mark holes along the groove so that their centers are at a distance of half the diameter of the drill.
Drill all holes to a depth of 2-3 mm - so the drill will not lead away.
Drill all holes to the end.
With a file, remove the jumpers (if any) and smooth out the bumps.

How to drill a brick

Brick is a rather soft material, so it can be drilled with a conventional electric drill with an impact function.

Drilling a brick wall is performed as follows:

Mark the location of the future hole with a pencil or marker.
Put a core or an old drill on the mark.
Apply 2–3 blows with a hammer so that a recess remains on the brick - then the drill will not lead away.
Install a drill in the drill, turn on the impact mode.
Drill a hole by gently pressing the tool.

Note. If the finished hole is to be larger than 10 mm, it is recommended to first drill the hole with a smaller diameter drill bit - 6-8 mm, and then ream to the required diameter.

Video: drilling a brick wall

The main malfunctions of the drill and how to fix them

No matter how perfect the technique, sooner or later, there comes a moment when the technological resource is exhausted, and one or another part needs to be replaced.

The electric drill is no exception. Here is a list of possible, most common problems:

Motor failure (power supply is good, but the motor does not rotate).
Wear or burning of carbon brushes (during operation of the device, the brushes spark strongly).
Failure of the engine support bearings (a hum of the motor is heard, but there is no rotation, or the cartridge rotates intermittently, with a rattle).

In addition, the reasons for the unstable operation of the electric drill may be related to the integrity of the power cord or the start button being stuck. Such problems are solved by replacing the cable and preventive cleaning of the button from debris and dust.

To repair a drill at home, you will need many special tools, including electrical measuring ones. If they are not there, it is cheaper to give the drill for repair in service center. Replacing carbon brushes is quite within the power of a home master. In all new models of drills, the designers have provided for quick access to the place where the brushes are attached and their easy replacement.

Drill bits and their installation

In addition to drilling holes, an electric drill is capable of performing a variety of other tasks. For this, various nozzles have been developed and produced, with which you can grind, polish, cut or sharpen. All nozzles are attached to the drill chuck, just like a conventional drill.

Polishing nozzle

Designed for polishing surfaces with abrasive materials. This can be sandpaper or a felt base on which GOI paste is applied. The nozzle is a rotating flat surface, which is used to process the material to be ground.

Nozzles for coarse cleaning of materials

To clean metal surfaces (for example, pipes), wire nozzles (scrubbers) are used. They are a cylinder, on the surface of which there are hard bristles made of metal wire. They are produced with bristles of different stiffness, ranging from thin wire to pieces of cables.

Nozzle "cricket"

The nozzle called "cricket" turns the drill into nibblers for metal.

With the help of a "cricket" you can cut holes in metal sheets up to 1.6 mm thick. The nozzle has proven itself very well in roofing work, when it is necessary to fit and cut metal sheets of a given shape.

Video: nozzle-scissors for metal "Cricket"

Nozzle - file

A nozzle made of abrasive material makes it possible to significantly facilitate work when performing work on sharpening parts, fitting grooves and holes. Represented by a wide range of sharpening stones of various shapes and sizes. Among the nozzles there are conical, cylindrical, flat, spherical stones.

Milling attachments

Drill bits designed to perform milling work on wood or plastic are also called cutters. With their help, you can make a groove, groove, recess of given sizes.

According to the shape and purpose, cones are divided into:

cylindrical;
disk;
end and end;
shaped.

The type of cutter is selected for a specific task in accordance with the density of the material and the power of the electric drill.

Other nozzles

For cutting materials

There is a nozzle with which you can saw wood, metal or plastic. The principle of operation of its mechanism is similar to the device of an electric jigsaw. The kit includes a set of saw blades with various form and number of teeth. Such a nozzle can easily cope with sawing a wooden board up to 20 mm thick, as well as chipboard or plywood. For cutting more massive workpieces, it is still better to use a jigsaw.

For drilling large holes

For drilling holes of large diameter, special devices and tools are available that can be used as equipment for an electric drill. To make large holes use:

crowns - steel cylinders with teeth or spraying - for wood, stone or tile;
drill bits - metal plates with a center and two blades - for wood and plywood;
beam drills - long pins with spiral grooves - for drilling thick wooden beams;
Forstner drills are a special-shaped tool with numerous cutting edges- for precise and clean holes in wood.

Photo gallery: drills for large holes

Beam drills for deep holes in wood Forstner drills for neat and precise holes

For tightening fasteners

Drill attachments are widely used and used for driving screws, bolts and nuts. Their diversity is comparable only to the huge range of products that exists in the world of fasteners. With these nozzles, provided that the speed range of the drill includes low-speed modes, the electric drill turns into a full-fledged screwdriver or wrench.

Drill mixer

It is also impossible to ignore such a useful practical function of an electric drill as its use as a mixer when mixing paints, gypsum and other mixtures.

Using a special whisk for kneading, you can successfully give the desired shade of paint at home or stir the glue for wallpapering. In addition, light building mixtures such as gypsum or putty can also be mixed using a drill.

It should be remembered that excessive overloads on the drill can damage the main mechanism of the tool - the electric motor. It is not recommended to use a drill as a mixer when mixing heavy concrete mixtures. For this, there are special concrete mixers and mixers.

Attention! If the body of the drill is hot, and the motor is buzzing hard, you should stop and give the machine time to cool.

Drill-drilling machine

The drill can be used as a drilling machine. Drilling blanks will be much more convenient. Ready-made racks are sold in stores with a drill clamp, feed lever and vise.

You can make a drilling machine from an electric drill with your own hands. Such a machine consists of a bed, a vertical stand, a rotary mechanism and a feeder. Despite the simplicity of the design, the machine significantly improves the accuracy of machining parts.

Video: do-it-yourself drilling machine from a drill

Among the numerous nozzles for electric drills produced by the industry, there are also such “exotic” specimens as a pump nozzle for pumping liquids or a special nozzle for plucking poultry feathers. AT Everyday life they are not as often in demand as carpentry and locksmith tools, which are used in almost every home.

An electric drill can save you money and energy. For home and one-time work, you do not need to buy several professional machines. Special nozzles will make the tool versatile: drilling and cutting, grinding and turning, kneading and chiselling - this is not a complete list of operations available for a drill. To work was a joy, you must follow the safety rules.