Samara Luka National Park on the map. Samara onion

Anyone who has visited Zhiguli on the Volga, who has admired their unique beauty, who has seen the sun rise over the gray wall of the mountains, will retain the charm of their stern solemnity for the rest of their lives, and will remember the steepness of the peaks that drop straight into the Volga waters. It is impossible to describe such magnificence; you have to see it for yourself. Every Samara resident knows the words: “There is no Russia without the Volga, and no Volga without Zhiguli.” In them, our people captured the unique beauty of the Volga Mountains, which are considered the national pride of Russia.

The most unique peninsula

Take a look at the map of our region, and specifically at its right bank. It is clearly visible that the Usa River, starting in the Rachei Mountains, rapidly rolls its waters towards the Volga, near the village of Perevoloki it approaches it only one and a half kilometers, after which... it does not merge with the Volga waters. Here Usa turns sharply north and connects with main river, but on the opposite edge of the peninsula. It was precisely this Usinsk “trick” that allowed this unique natural phenomenon, the like of which does not exist anywhere else in the world - the famous Volga ring, which in geographical science is called Samara Luka. The northern edge of this Volga peninsula is very steep and steep, and is popularly known as the Zhiguli Mountains (Fig. 1-5).

The beauty of these places has been known since ancient times, but only at the beginning of the twentieth century was the enormous scientific value of the landscapes of Samarskaya Luka finally established. In 1914, an article by a young professor (and later academician) Vladimir Nikolaevich Sukachev appeared in the little-known scientific journal “Notes of the Simbirsk Regional Natural History Museum”. There were these words: “It is unlikely that in all of central Russia there will be a more interesting area for a naturalist than Zhiguli. Only such mountainous outlying areas as the Crimea and the Caucasus can compete with them in this regard...” It turned out that the Volga bend is extremely rich in rare species of flora and fauna, as well as natural and historical monuments. This unique combination in a narrow area of ​​terrain is due to the peculiarities of the geological history of this section of the right bank (Fig. 6).

The formation of the landscapes of Samara Luka began in the Paleogene (18-20 million years ago), when a fold of the earth’s crust formed in the southeastern part of the Russian Plain. After this, the Volga River came closer and closer to the mountain range, but could not crush it. The water only washed away the northern section of the mountain range, after which it went around. This is how this bend arose in the middle reaches of the Volga. And at the end of the Neogene period (about a million years ago), the last Akchagyl Sea in the history of our region came here from the south, destroying the land flora and fauna of that time for hundreds of kilometers around. Only on the island, which is now called Samarskaya Luka, as a refuge, hundreds of species of animals and plants of those ancient times have been preserved to this day. They can still be found here today. These are true "living fossils" with ancient history: Cossack juniper, Alpine aster, Tatarian bark, mole rat, Apollo butterfly, Alpine longhorned beetle and others.

And in Quaternary period To the “living fossils” (relics) of the Neogene, relics of glacial time were also added. Traces of the penultimate glaciation (about 40 thousand years ago) are located at a distance of only 300 kilometers from Samarskaya Luka. It was here that many species were pushed out from the north, which can now be found only hundreds of kilometers from these places: common bearberry, ferns - Linnaeus holocarias and floating salvinia, and others. This is how the current unique natural communities have developed, thanks to which the bend has become a kind of museum of nature, of which there are only a few in the world. Therefore, now on Samarskaya Luka there are, according to various estimates, from 300 to 500 natural and historical monuments, as well as over 100 species of relict and endemic animals and plants (Fig. 7-9).

Due to the uniqueness and wide variety of natural landscapes, as well as representatives of the flora and fauna living on its territory, Samarskaya Luka is now included in the UNESCO catalogs as a natural and historical monument of world significance, subject to full protection.

For nature conservation and tourism

In 1926, on the initiative of the botanist Ivan Ivanovich Sprygin, an expedition was organized in Zhiguli to officially confirm the enormous scientific value of the flora of this area and to select places for organizing the first protected areas. As a result, on August 19, 1927, the Small Council of People's Commissars of the RSFSR made a decision: on the basis of these protected areas, to form a single Middle Volga Nature Reserve (later Zhigulevsky). During the 1950s and 1960s it was closed and reopened twice until it was finally restored on October 4, 1966. Since 1978, the area of ​​the protected area in Zhiguli is 23.1 thousand hectares. And since 1977, the reserve has been named after I.I. Sprygin (Fig. 10).

However, the reserve is a closed institution where access to visitors is prohibited without special permission. Therefore, in order not to deprive people of healthy recreation and to give them the opportunity to see unique nature, on the rest of the territory of Samara Luka, a quarter of a century ago, by decision of the Council of Ministers of the RSFSR dated April 28, 1984, the State Natural national park. Such institutions all over the world are created in cases where it is necessary to combine two seemingly incompatible tasks: nature protection and outdoor recreation for the population.

Reference. Encyclopedias indicate that a national park is an area where, for the purpose of protection environment human activity is limited. But, unlike nature reserves, where human activity is almost completely prohibited, ecological, recreational and historical tourism is allowed on the territory of national parks, as well as some economic activities on a limited scale that contribute to the goals and objectives of the park.

The world's first national park is Yellowstone, which is located in the United States and was founded in 1872. It was in this country that for the first time it was decided at the governmental and legislative level that on the territory of the state, along with private lands, there should also be public lands belonging to the entire nation. This is where the name of such territories came from – national parks. Traditionally, they are held in places that differ from others in their uniqueness in natural, scientific or historical terms, where tourists have something to see, and the country has something to be proud of before other nations (Fig. 11-13).

The largest area in the world is now considered the North-East Greenland National Park, whose territory is 972 thousand km?. This corresponds to approximately a quarter of the European part of Russia. At the same time, the area of ​​the world's smallest national park, Hot Springs in the USA, is only 22 km².

The current regulations on the Federal government agency“National Park “Samarskaya Luka” (FGU NP “Samarskaya Luka”) was approved by Order No. 66 of the Ministry of Natural Resources of the Russian Federation dated March 17, 2005. Subsequently, some amendments were made to it. According to the regulations, the territory of the park is 134 thousand hectares, of which 69 thousand hectares are given to it for its own perpetual possession (this is mainly state forest fund land), and the remaining 65 thousand hectares belong to other land users without withdrawing these lands from economic activity. The national park is now located on the territory of three districts Samara region: Stavropol, Volzhsky and Syzran, and also partially within the city limits of Zhigulevsk and Samara (Fig. 14).

Management of the Samarskaya Luka National Park: director - Alexander Egorovich Gubernatorov, his deputies - Valery Pavlovich Ovchinnikov, Olga Mikhailovna Kozhevnikova, Maya Midikhatovna Andrianova and Evgeniy Vladimirovich Bykov (Fig. 15, 16).

The central office of the park is located in the city of Zhigulevsk, on Tkacheva Street, 109-A. The representative office in Samara is located on Kuibysheva Street 127, office 8. District forestries are located in the villages of Bakhilovo, Bolshaya Ryazan, Sosnovy Solonets and Rozhdestveno.

In the name of nature

For a long time, there have been many options for detailed tourist routes throughout the park, tourist establishments, bases, parking lots and everything else, without which it is unthinkable to serve tourists at a modern level. Such projects were developed back in the late 80s by the Moscow institutes Giprogor and Soyuzgiproleskhoz with the participation of employees of the then existing regional council of the All-Russian Society for Nature Conservation (VOOP), primarily its activists. The greatest merit here belongs to the head of the nature department of the Kuibyshev Regional Museum of Local History Tatyana Vladimirovna Tezikova and associate professor of the Kuibyshev Planning Institute (now Samara State Economic University), candidate of geographical sciences Alexey Stepanovich Zakharov (Fig. 17, 18).

This is what Yuri Konstantinovich Roshchevsky, Candidate of Biological Sciences, who in the 80s and 90s worked as the director of science at the Samarskaya Luka National Park, writes (Fig. 19):

If it weren’t for Tatyana Vladimirovna Tezikova, the previously destroyed Zhigulevsky Nature Reserve (recreated in 1966) would not have been opened in the region. If it weren’t for Tatyana Vladimirovna, the idea of ​​creating a national park on Samarskaya Luka (created in 1984) would never have been born in the region. If it weren’t for Tatyana Vladimirovna, scientists would not have had the desire to implement the idea of ​​including Samarskaya Luka in the international register of UNESCO biosphere reserves (created in 2007).

Apotheosis social activities Tatyana Vladimirovna Tezikova came at a time when she was the head of the nature department of the Kuibyshev Regional Museum of Local Lore. This is the era of the late 1950s to mid-1980s. This was the era of Tezikova. But neither the authorities, nor the media, nor venerable local historians wanted to admit this.

Tatyana Vladimirovna had a very difficult character. But it is she who is involved in the fact that the Samara region has its own face, has its own pearl - the Middle Volga Biosphere Reserve, which includes a nature reserve and a national park. She has created for herself the name of an iconic person in a large region of Russia.

And here is what Alexey Alekseevich Golovlev, Doctor of Geographical Sciences, Professor writes:

Among the most significant works of A.S. Zakharov includes the local history manual “Relief of the Kuibyshev Region” (1971). It represents the first detailed work on the geomorphological zoning of the territory of the present Samara region. There is no doubt that the logical “predecessors” of this book were science articles A.S. Zakharov about the Zhigulevsky, Soksky and Samara-Kinelsky geomorphological regions, published in the prestigious publishing house of Kazan University.

As a member of the Kuibyshev Regional Council of the All-Russian Society for Nature Conservation, Associate Professor A.S. Zakharov actively showed himself in the promotion of environmental and physical-geographical knowledge. He spoke in defense of the nature of the Samara region, and, in particular, the nature of the Samara Luka. According to Yu.A. Shapovalova, in the 60s A.S. Zakharov was one of the ideologists social movement in defense of Samarskaya Luka, and in the 80s - one of the founders of the Samarskaya Luka State Natural National Park. Therefore, it is not at all accidental that the author of A.S. Zakharov owns publications devoted to environmental territories of the Samara region.

In the collection “Treasures of Volga Nature...” (1972), published under the editorship of A.S. Zakharov, tells about protected and memorable places in the Kuibyshev region. For the collection “Treasures of Volga Nature...” A.S. Zakharov prepared several articles: “Features of the nature of our region”, “Zhiguli Gate”, “Tsarev Kurgan”, “Bald Mountain and the Volga Bank”, “Guard Hill, or Mount Svetelka”, “Chuvash Hill”, “Landslide terraces near the village. Basement”, “Caves”, as well as “Murano Forest” (together with A.P. Titavnin), “Pine forests on dune sands”, “Oak Grove”, “Bayrack forests”, “Genkovsky forest strips” (together with S. I. Vlasov) and “Samarskaya Luka” (together with T.V. Tezikova).

As the author and compiler, A.S. Zakharov also participated in the preparation of another large collective work of Samara naturalists - the “Green Book” of the Volga region...” (1995). This collection contains some articles by A.S. Zakharov, previously published in “Treasures of the Volga Nature...” (1972), but in a modified form and in co-authorship. In addition, the “Green Book” of the Volga Region...” (1995) contains new articles by A.S. Zakharova: “Monuments of forest and steppe vegetation”, “South-eastern forest region of Samarskaya Luka”, “Sources of the Crimean River”, “Lake Razliv”, “Osinovsky geological deposits”, “Maryin navel”, as well as “Gostevsky Shikhan”, “ Tract Mosque", "Stone Bowl", "Ramenskaya Forest Dacha", "Irgiz Floodplain" (together with T. Plaksina), "Molodetsky Kurgan" (together with T. Plaksina, T. Tezikova), "Usinsky Kurgan" (together with T. Tezikova), “Vinnovsky Mountains” (together with V. Erofeev, T. Tezikova), Shelekhmetsky Mountains (together with O. Zadulskaya), “Springs of the Samara Luka”, “Samara-Kinel Strelka” (together with Y. Vikhrov) , “Sulfur Mountain” (together with V. Krivosheev), “Muravel Forest” (together with S. Vlasov), “Karst system of the Greve Brothers Cave” (together with S. Tyurin) and “Stepan Razin’s Cave” (together with L. Guseva).

The park looks to the future

At the moment, several excursion and tourist routes officially operate in the park, including “The Village of Shiryaevo” (including a visit to Mount Camel, Popova and Monastyrskaya Mountains), “To the Cave of Stepan Razin” and “Usinsky Kurgan”. At the same time, some time ago the route to the Molodetsky Kurgan was closed, since due to mass visits, some areas of this natural monument were on the verge of destruction (Fig. 20-25).

In October 2011, the official opening of the new ecological trail “Witch Lake” took place in the Alexandrovsky forestry of the national park.

The opening was attended by the head of the tourism development department of the regional Ministry of Sports, Tourism and Youth Policy, Mikhail Maltsev, and the director of the Samarskaya Luka NP, Alexander Gubernatorov.

“Witch Lake” is located near the village of Bakhilovo and is a small area with a diameter of about 150 meters. A wicker figure hangs above the wooden gate from which the excursion route begins. mythical creature, similar to a bat. It is believed that it protects the territory from evil. The gate itself is decorated with animal skulls (Fig. 26-30).

After following the narrow path for just a few meters, you can see a concrete figure of a witch brewing another potion in a mortar. There is a lake right behind it. Walking around it, you can meet several more mythical characters, the goblin, the fox, and devils looking out of the well. And from the water right in the middle of the lake a merman looks at the tourists.

To the left, where the path leads visitors, is a magical forest. There are many trees of bizarre shapes growing here. There are also an old oak, which entwines a young linden tree. It is considered to be the tree of desires and love.

Even before the development of the tourist route, people made wishes here by tying ribbons local residents. This tradition continues today.

Along the entire route there are information boards telling about the vegetation and natural landscapes of Samarskaya Luka, as well as the life and customs of the Mordovians - the people who historically inhabited this territory.

In total, about a million rubles were spent on arranging the excursion route. “Witch Lake” is significantly different from other tourist routes in the national park. If visiting the others takes several hours, then “Witch Lake” can be completely explored in half an hour.

“This route is designed for the most different people, explains Alexander Gubernatorov. - You can visit it even with children. Not everyone has the strength to climb, for example, the Molodetsky Kurgan. And this trail is suitable for absolutely everyone.”

However, the development of the park does not end there. At the end of this month, a shelter for wild animals “Aibolit House” will open here. And next year it is planned to organize a tourist route “To the Cave of Stepan Razin”.

According to Alexander Gubernatorov, the organization ecological trails- the only way to fight unregulated tourism, because of which the unique natural landscapes of Samarskaya Luka are disappearing. About 30 thousand tourists visit the park annually legally. Moreover, over the same period of time, the number of illegal visitors reaches half a million.

In accordance with a long-existing plan, it is planned to further develop route tourism throughout Samarskaya Luka, except for its protected areas. It is expected that its territory will be covered by a network of tourist trails, following which one will be able to get acquainted with its natural and historical monuments, rare species of flora and fauna, and, of course, relax visiting nature.

On all routes it is planned to equip special parking areas where tourists will have a source of water, fuel supplies, fireplaces, shelters from bad weather, sanitary facilities and everything else necessary for a short rest. On the trails, travelers will also be greeted by observation decks, full houses, and layout diagrams of the park’s natural and historical sites. And in the evening the group will arrive at one of the tourist complexes of this route, where each of the travelers will choose a vacation according to their taste: overnight in houses with amenities or in a tent, a warm shower or swimming in the river, a movie show or a stadium. Here tourists will have a cultural center, a medical center, shops, a canteen and similar institutions.

Or maybe someone will like to fly on a hang glider or paraglider over the expanses of Samara Luka, or in winter - a rapid descent from the Zhiguli peaks to alpine skiing? After all, it is possible to create hang gliding centers here and skiing, for example, on Mount Mogutova near Zhigulevsk or on Mount Camel, near the village of Podgory. Right there, nearby, there can also be a climbing wall for training climbers. Finally, those who wish may not have to go or travel anywhere at all - they will be able to spend several days in a tent, doing, for example, fishing on the shore of a quiet lake in a specially designated area.

Of course, many projects are still just projects. In order for such a “paradise for tourists” to become a reality, at least two conditions are necessary. Firstly, the federal and provincial authorities must finally realize that nature protection and people’s recreation in nature are two things that can be combined in the territory of the Samarskaya Luka National Park with common benefit and considerable state benefit. Secondly, in order to begin the practical implementation of the project now, it is necessary to find, under the guarantee of the authorities, far-sighted investors who can provide funds for the long-term development of tourism. Only then will it be possible to begin solving specific problems of the national park (Fig. 31-36).

Valery EROFEEV.

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Bortnikov M.P. 2003. Brief information on the history of the Shiryaevsky adits. - On Sat. "Local history notes". ReleaseXI. Samara, publishing house ZAO "FAYE DESIGN", Samara Regional Museum of History and Local Lore named after. P.V. Alabina, p.165-171.

Bortnikov M.P. 2004. Karst objects of the Samara region. - On Sat. "Local history notes". ReleaseXIII. Samara, publishing house "Glagol" LLC, Samara Regional Museum of History and Local Lore named after. P.V. Alabina, s. 126-130 (Karst arch in the Sheludyak ravine Zhiguli Mountains, Maloryazan karst bridge near the village of Malaya Ryazan, Stavropol region, Pecherskaya cave near the village of Pecherskoye, Syzran region).

Bortnikov M.P. 2004. Orographic significance of the Zhiguli Mountains. - On Sat. "Local history notes". ReleaseXIII. Samara, publishing house "Glagol" LLC, Samara Regional Museum of History and Local Lore named after. P.V. Alabina, s. 121-125.

Varenov D.V. 2003. Kozyi Rozhki tract. - On Sat. "Local history notes". ReleaseXI. Samara, publishing house ZAO "FAYE DESIGN", Samara Regional Museum of History and Local Lore named after. P.V. Alabina, p.155-164.

Vinogradov A.V. (Rec.) 1992. Atlas of the fauna of the Upper Carboniferous and Lower Permian of Samarskaya Luka. - On Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 1/91. Samara", pp. 223-224.

Vorotelak V.N. 1990. On the rationalization of environmental management in the Samara Luka region in connection with the needs of the national economy for construction raw materials. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, p. 30.

Gorelov M.S. 1990. Technocratism and degradation of natural ecosystems of Samarskaya Luka. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 7-9.

Erofeev V.V. 1990. Discovery of underground storage rooms. - On Sat. "Samara local historian". Historical and local history collection. (Compiled by A.N. Zavalny). Kuibyshev. Book publishing house, pp. 311-338.

Zamyatin N.N. 1913. Geological study of the northern part of the Samara province (the area of ​​the Soka River and the Samara Luka) - Tr. Geol. com, new ser., vol. 84. St. Petersburg. 151 p.

Ivanov A.M., Polyakov K.V. 1960. Geological structure of the Kuibyshev region. Kuibyshev, type. them. Soft. 82 p.

Kudinov K.A. 1990. Mining system and nature conservation on Samarskaya Luka. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 23-29.

Murchison G.I., Verneuil E., Keyserling A.1849. Geological description of European Russia and the Ural ridge. St. Petersburg Type. I. Glazunov. Part 1. 380 pp.

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Nebritov N.L., Sidorov A.A., Goncharov N.N. 2004. Marble onyx. - On Sat. "Local history notes". ReleaseXIII. Samara, publishing house "Glagol" LLC, Samara Regional Museum of History and Local Lore named after. P.V. Alabina, s. 177-179.

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Obedientova G.V. 1988. From time immemorial. Geological history and nature of Zhiguli. Kuib. book publishing house 213 p.

Obedientova G.V. 1990. On the protection of the geological and geographical environment of Samara Luka. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 3-6.

Obedientova G.V. 1991. On geological standards and stratotypes of Samara Luka. - On Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 2/91. Samara", pp. 30-39.

Smoktunovich T.L. 1992. In memory of Glafira Vitalievna Obedientova (20.02.1911 - 6.03.1991). - On Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 1/91. Samara", pp. 148-162.

Strizheva I.M. 1991. Bony remains of large mammals in the Samarskaya Luka area. [Appendix 1: Scheme of sites where bone remains were found (109); Appendix 2: Information about finds of osteological material (201). - On Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 2/91. Samara", pp. 197-205.

Flora of Samara Luka.

Abolin R.I. 1910. Some data on forest and other plant formations of the Zhiguli Mountains of Simbirsk Gubernia. - Lesn. journal, issue 3. t. 40. Simbirsk. p.326.

Dembitsky V.M., Rozentsvet O.A., Bychek I.A. 1990. Study of the lipid composition of lichens collected in the Volga basin. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, p. 36.

Zadulskaya O.A. 1990. Flora and vegetation of forest edges of Samarskaya Luka. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 92-93.

Ignatova G.V. 1990. New materials on the distribution of rare plant species on Samarskaya Luka. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 81-83.

Ilyina N.S. 1990. Flora and vegetation of ravine-gully systems in the southern part of Samarskaya Luka. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 90-91.

Malinovskaya E.I. 1996. Anthropogenic phytocenoses of Samarskaya Luka and the ways of their formation in disturbed habitats. - On Sat. "Local history notes". Issue VIII, dedicated to the 110th anniversary of the museum. Samara, Samara Regional History and Local Lore Museum named after. P.V. Alabina, pp. 173-184. (Study of phytocenoses of the Zhiguli Mountains and areas of dacha developments).

Malinovskaya E.I., Plaksina T.I. 2000. Flora of the Samarskaya Luka National Park. Samara, SamVen Publishing House. 184 p.

Matveev V.I. 1990. The influence of the anthropogenic factor on the reservoirs of the Kuibyshev region, their flora and vegetation. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 73-75.

Medvedev V.K., Gunkin I.I., Kadina G.V., Zaitseva O.A. 1983. Study of ways to increase the productivity of meadow phytocenoses of Samarskaya Luka. - On Sat. “Issues of forest biogeocenology, ecology and nature conservation in steppe zone" Interdepartmental collection. Ed. N.M. Matveeva. Kuibyshev, KSU Publishing House, pp. 107-116.

Molodova L.P. 1990. Species structure of communities depending on the degree of anthropogenic impact. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, p. 111.

Plaksina T.I. 1990. Issues of geography of plants in the territory of Samarskaya Luka. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 76-78.

Plaksina T.I. 1991. Taxonomic analysis of the flora of the Zhigulevsky Nature Reserve. - On Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 2/91. Samara", pp. 61-76.

Plaksina T.I. 1998. Rare, endangered plants of the Samara region. Samara. Samara University Publishing House. 272 pp.

Plaksina T.I. 2001. Abstract of the flora of the Volga-Ural region. - Samara. Samara University Publishing House, 388 p.

Plaksina T.I., Tezikova T.V., Guseva L.N. 1978. Herbarium of the Kuibyshev Regional Museum of Local History. - On Sat. “Issues of forest biogeocenology, ecology and nature conservation in the steppe zone.” Interuniversity collection. Vol. 3. Ed. N.M. Matveeva. Kuibyshev, Kuib publishing house. state University, pp. 76-92.

Rakov N.S. 1990. Korzhinsky feather grass in the west of Samarskaya Luka. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, p. 84.

Rakov N.S. 1991. About the discovery of Astragalus angustifolia in the west of Samarskaya Luka. (Appendix: Floristic composition of communities with Astragalus angustifolia (224). – In the collection “Bulletin “Samara Luka” No. 2/91. Samara,” pp. 222-226.

Rakov N.S. 1991. Steppes with Korzhinsky feather grass in the west of Samara Luka. - On Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 2/91. Samara", pp. 101-108.

Saksonov S.V. 1990. The main stages of studying the flora and vegetation of Samarskaya Luka. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 70-72.

Saksonov S.V. 1992. Floristic finds on Samarskaya Luka. Message 1. – In Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 1/91. Samara", pp. 79-84.

Saksonov S.V., Belikova G.V., Melchenko V.E., Rumyantseva T.A., Razdobarova M.S. 1990. Valuable botanical objects of Samarskaya Luka. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 97-99.

Saksonov S.V., Terentyeva M.E. 1991. New data on rare plants Zhigulevsky Nature Reserve (Materials for the Red Book of Russia). - On Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 2/91. Samara", pp. 77-100.

Saksonov S.B., Tsvelev N.N. 1991. Floristic finds on Samarskaya Luka. Message 2. – In Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 2/91. Samara", pp. 215-219.

Semenova-Tyan-Shanskaya A.M., Gubonina E.P., Malgina E.A., Minyaev N.A. 1991. List of lichens collected on the territory of the Zhigulevsky Nature Reserve in 1945 - In collection. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 2/91. Samara", pp. 210-214.

Sprygina L.I. 1990. Materials on the vegetation of Samarskaya Luka (mainly the Zhigulevsky Nature Reserve), representing the result of research by I.I. Sprygin and the expeditions he led and stored in his archive. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 100-102.

Cherepnin L.M. 1990. Rocky steppe of the Zhiguli Mountains. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 85-89.

Yastrebova N.A., Plaksina T.I. 1990. The significance of the work of L.M. Cherepkin in the study of the flora and vegetation of Zhiguli. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 103-105.

Fauna of Samara Luka

Bykov E.V. 1990. The impact of grazing on the nesting avifauna of suburban forests of Zhigulevsk. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, p. 167.

Bykov E.V. 1990. Impact of recreation on the breeding avifauna of suburban oak forests. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 168-170.

Bykov E.V. 1991. Nesting avifauna of oak forests of Samarskaya Luka under conditions of seasonal recreation. - On Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 2/91. Samara", pp. 132-140.

Bychek E.A. 1990. Features of the chorological structure of the black grouse population on Samarskaya Luka. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, p. 161.

Varlakov A.D. 1992. Species composition of the ichthyofauna of the Samara region. - On Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 1/91. Samara", pp. 119-124.

Vinogradov A.V. 1990. Recent eurometic bryozoan in the Middle Volga region. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, p. 142.

Gorelov M.S. 1992. Review of the theriofauna of the Right Bank and Samara Trans-Volga region and some features of its formation. - On Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 1/91. Samara", pp. 63-78.

Gorelov M.S. 1992. About the discovery of multi-colored foot-and-mouth disease (Eremias arguta) in the Samara region. - On Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 1/91. Samara", page 132.

Dyuzhaeva I.V. 1990. On the state of knowledge of the hemipterofauna of Samara Luka. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 118-120.

Isaev A.Yu. 1991. Towards knowledge of the fauna and ecology of weevils of the river. Cionus (COLEOPTERA, CUCULIONIDAE) Volga region. - On Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 2/91. Samara", pp. 237-240.

Kovrigina A.M. 1992. Structure of soil mesofauna in different biotopes of Samarskaya Luka. - On Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 1/91. Samara", pp. 102-103.

Krasnobaev Yu.P. 1990. New and little-known spiders in the fauna of Samarskaya Luka. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 140-141.

Magdeev D.V. 1990. Biotopic distribution of longhorned beetles on Samarskaya Luka. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 137-139.

Pavlov S.I. 1990. Features of the ecology of rare species of leaf beetles on the Samara onion. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 146-148.

Pavlov S.I. 1990. Ecological and faunal complexes of leaf beetles on Samarskaya Luka under conditions of anthropogenic transformation of natural ecosystems. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 144-145.

Panteleev I.V. 1990. Winter bird population along the banks of the Volga River. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 158-160.

Polyakova G.M. 1990. Fauna of coccinellids of upland plant complexes of Samarskaya Luka. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 132-133.

Polyakova G.M. 1990. Rare species coccinellids of Samarskaya Luka and the main measures for their protection. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 134-136.

Roshchevsky Yu.K. 1976. On the structure and biocenotic significance of the avifauna of Samara Luka. - On Sat. “Issues of forest biogeocenology, ecology and nature conservation in the steppe zone.” Interuniversity collection. Vol. 1. Kuibyshev, Kuibyshev State Publishing House. University, pp. 65-66.

Roshchevsky Yu.K. 1976. Tushino colony of the gray heron, the need and prospects for its protection. - On Sat. “Issues of forest biogeocenology, ecology and nature conservation in the steppe zone.” Interuniversity collection. Vol. 1. Kuibyshev, Kuibyshev State Publishing House. University, pp. 67-68.

Sachkov S.A. 1990. Lepidoptera of the stony steppes of Samarskaya Luka. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 121-123.

Sachkov S.A. 1992. Lepidoptera described by P.S. Pallas from Samara and its environs. - On Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 1/91. Samara", pp. 108-109.

Tilly A.S. 1991. Review of the fauna of ground beetles (Carabidea) of the Samara region. - On Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 2/91. Samara", pp. 176-196.

Khalidov A.B., Krasnobaev Yu.P. 1991. Materials on fungal dipterans of the Samara Luka. - On Sat. “Bulletin “Samarskaya Luka” No. 2/91. Samara", pp. 233-237.

Shebarshenko V.V. 1990. Breeding avifauna of planned tourist routes. - On Sat. "Social and environmental problems of Samara Luka." Abstracts of reports of the second scientific and practical conference (October 1-3, 1990, Kuibyshev). Kuibyshevsk. state ped. Institute named after V.V. Kuibysheva, Zhigulevsky State. reserve named after I.I. Sprygina, Kuibyshev, pp. 162-166.

Addition

EAT. Malinkin, Candidate of Historical Sciences

“Samara Luka” is 30 years old. The difficult history of the “Volga pearl”

If you ask residents of the Samara region what can be considered the main symbol of our region, many will definitely name the Samara Luka. One of the most beautiful places not only in the Volga region, but also in Russia, called “Volga Switzerland” back in the century before last. Unique relief forms, a peculiar microclimate, the amazing beauty of the mountains, the blue necklace of the Volga that frames them, unique flora and fauna have earned Zhiguli and Samarskaya Luka as a whole world fame. The nature here is protected by the Zhigulevsky Nature Reserve. I.I. Sprygin National Park "Samarskaya Luka". The reserve was first created back in 1927, suffered closure in 1961 and revival 5 years after that. Samara Luka has a shorter, but in some ways even more eventful history. Unfortunately, all this time the national park is struggling to preserve its unique nature as much as possible. Archival documents can speak eloquently about this. So, in the Samara regional state archive socio-political history there is an entire file dedicated to the struggle to preserve the park in the late 1980s.

The Samarskaya Luka State Natural National Park was created by a resolution of the Council of Ministers of the RSFSR dated April 28, 1984, based on the proposal of the Kuibyshev Regional Executive Committee within the Volzhsky, Stavropol and Syzran districts of the Kuibyshev region. The total area of ​​the park is 127,186 hectares (including a water area of ​​1844 hectares). The national park is located on the slopes of the Volga Upland in the Zhiguli region, in a bend of the Volga. Here is a fragment of the resolution: “... on the creation of the state natural national park “Samarskaya Luka” of the Ministry of Forestry of the RSFSR on the basis of the Zhigulevsky and Rozhdestvensky forestry enterprises of this Ministry and the provision of 69 thousand hectares of state forest fund land within the boundaries of these forestry enterprises for use by the national park; on the inclusion of 62 thousand hectares of lands of collective farms and state farms of the Ministry into the state natural national park "Samarskaya Luka" Agriculture RSFSR and 3 thousand hectares of lands of other land users located on the territory of Samarskaya Luka, without their seizure and economic exploitation. Collective and state farms, the lands of which are included in the state natural national park, carry out production activities based on scientifically based systems of agriculture and livestock husbandry, which do not contradict the objectives of the state natural national park. The Kuibyshev Regional Executive Committee, together with the Ministry of Forestry of the RSFSR, the Ministry of Agriculture of the RSFSR and other interested ministries and departments, should clarify the boundaries of the national park.” The most important note is that collective and state farms, whose territories were included in the park, continued to carry out economic activities, albeit “on the basis of scientifically based systems of agriculture and livestock husbandry.” In addition, the park actually began operating only on July 24, 1985. During this year, active destruction of ecosystems continued in the park (tree cutting, poaching). That is, from the very beginning, the park had to fight against those who tried to benefit from it, ignoring and circumventing the legislation. Since the late 1980s. this problem is escalating dramatically, posing a serious threat to the park.

Tatyana Vladimirovna Tezikova played a huge role in the fight for the preservation of Samara Luka. This name has special significance in the history of nature conservation in our region. From 1956 to 1985, Tezikova was a researcher at the regional museum of local history. Since 1958 - head of the museum's nature department. Tatyana Vladimirovna took an active part in the restoration of the Zhigulevsky State Reserve in 1966. She spoke in the media (radio, television, print), corresponded with prominent Russian scientists, with government bodies of the RSFSR and the USSR, as well as with the interdepartmental stratigraphic committee in the protection of natural objects .

Tezikova became one of the initiators of the justification and creation of a state natural national park (SNNP) on Samarskaya Luka. She was an active member of the All-Russian Society for Nature Conservation. She took part in the creation of the section of Protected Natural Areas at the VOOP in the 1970s and was an active member of it. In 1986-1989 T.V. Tezikova conducted active correspondence with various authorities, including the Central Committee of the CPSU, regarding the significance of the GPNP and violations in the use of its territory.

Even during the preparation and design of the national park, as T.V., a direct participant in this process, wrote. Tezikova, dacha construction was introduced into the park territory. Design organizations to please the “powers that be,” they changed the conservation regime on the coast and other territories, and their own conclusions were often canceled. Influential people from among the “dacha residents” also played an active role in this. In addition to such unauthorized buildings, there were many other objects in the NPNP that were incompatible with it: departmental recreation centers and pioneer camps, a poultry farm, a VAZ pig farm, medical institutions, correctional institutions, and a DOSAAF airfield. It turned out that part of the national park was in reality not a protected area at all.

Moreover, this was precisely the coastal part - and this is a complex natural monument, where a high concentration of objects even then reduced the advantages and accessibility for educational recreation and tourism.

As Tezikova wrote, the coastal area of ​​Luka is the “face” of the park, its business card. This is still the only point of contact between the national park and the river and demonstrates the park’s attractions to hundreds of visitors - travelers along the Volga on yawls, kayaks, boats, yachts and other transport. In addition, it was initially here that parking lots for almost all tourist destinations were planned, as well as zones tourist recreation. It is here that more than half of the identified attractions and monuments of nature, archeology and culture of the park are concentrated.

Tatyana Vladimirovna directly blamed the leaders of the regional executive committee for violating a number of regulations, for example, the law on nature conservation in the RSFSR; in addition, the actions of the regional authorities contradicted the Constitution of the USSR, decrees on the National Park and on the protection of natural monuments, the Land legislation was violated, and even the decisions of the Kuibyshev Regional Executive Committee. In addition, actions with the park land contradicted even the decisions of the CPSU Central Committee on garden and dacha construction. From the very beginning of the existence of the national park, it was in that zone that the creation of many settlements was imposed, requiring various infrastructures that seriously affected the landscape. Experts pointed out back in 1984 that construction on Samarskaya Luka was carried out without proper environmental justification and technical and economic examination. It all came down to distributing the most valuable coastal areas to departments. But back at the end of 1970, the Scientific and Technical Council of the All-Russian Society for Nature Conservation appealed to the regional leadership with a request to ban any construction and allotment of plots on the territory of Luka. During the creation of the park, accelerated construction of dachas and other facilities began, and after 1983 this process only intensified. It even went so far as to say that the dachas in the park “ennoble nature”!

In violation of the Regulations on the water protection zone, in the coastal strips of the Saratov and Kuibyshev reservoirs, where the decision of the regional executive committee prohibited all economic activity, forests were cut down for gardening and country houses and roads to them, slopes were plowed up, which caused irreparable damage to the unique nature of Samarskaya Luka. Tezikova argued that the allocation of territories for dachas at the expense of collective farms, state farms and forestry enterprises was carried out by the administration of these farms on instructions “from above”, without the permission of the collectives or formally without an analysis by the collective of the losses that they would suffer by giving the land to the dacha residents in the conditions of a national park. The specific harm of dachas for the national park is the depreciation or sharp deterioration of the condition of the coastal zone of the State Natural Park.

In her letters, Tezikova poses the question directly in relation to summer residents: do they consider it “moral and humane” when 8 thousand families receive almost constant and free use and devalue the best coastal part of the national park with development? A rhetorical question, while the calculated economic damage from the placement of dachas loomed quite real.

The scientific community and conferences have always considered a limited number of villages in the park as a guarantee of the preservation of the nature of Samarskaya Luka. As it was written in the “Volga Commune”, dachas are 10 thousand private cars, motor boats, motorcycles, practically uncontrollable, which penetrate into any place in the park, polluting the soil and water. According to the Environmental Institute in Togliatti, air pollution in the national park exceeded that outside its borders. In addition, dachas are poaching. According to student nature conservation teams and individual citizens, summer residents located in the protected zone of the Zhigulevsky Nature Reserve drag garbage from their plots to the protected area; They also export nuts, fruits, etc. from the reserve and park.

There are many examples of barbaric attitude towards nature and local monuments. At the “front” entrance to the park, on relics, endemics and archaeological sites stood stone houses and garages of “big bosses”, an ancient school building in the village. Ermakovo, where the museum was supposed to appear, was dismantled within a week by respectable summer residents from the local gardening and dacha partnership for the sake of bricks for fireplaces, as the Volga Commune wrote about on September 16, 1986. Even the chairman of the village council was attacked. Osinovki, who stood up for the interests of the park.

According to Tezikova, the situation with the liquidation of dacha development on the territory of the GPNP could be resolved in a civilized way. The park could receive a government loan and would provide financial support for the relocation of the dachas, compensating the owners for the costs. No one would turn capital structures into ruins; they are used by renting them out to tourists and to accommodate scientific expeditions, educational practices, and valuable fruit-bearing plantings would fall under the care of local farms.

Tatyana Vladimirovna’s main conclusion is that there are no convincing arguments for preserving dachas in the national park. The reference to the loss of dachas as participants in the decision of the food program is completely inappropriate, because This participation continues among the same summer residents outside the park.

The Sovetskaya Rossi newspaper, the previously mentioned regional press, local television and radio have repeatedly spoken out against gardening and dacha facilities in the national park and in the protected zone of the Zhigulevsky Nature Reserve. A clear protest against dachas and unauthorized development was expressed by the participants of the city council at a special meeting to consider the draft plan for the national park in April 1987. The project can be found in the archive documents along with other materials related to the struggle to preserve the park. The inventory of documents collected in defense of the park allows us to say that this problem was studied and considered by a wide range of competent authorities and specialists. The official position of all interested organizations and societies testified to the incompatibility of long-term recreation institutions and summer cottages with the GPNP. Finally, hundreds of signatures from residents of the region were collected for the preservation of the territory of Samarskaya Luka; youth groups of the tourist song festival named after them spoke out against the development of Zhiguli more than once. V. Grushina. In February 1987, representatives of the youth of the Kuibyshev region at the XXVIII regional Komsomol conference in preparation for the Komsomol Congress addressed the CPSU Central Committee with a request to remove the dachas from the territory of the national park.

The flow of letters in support of Samara Luka continued, the recipients were the Central Committee of the CPSU, the Commission for Environmental Protection of the Council of Ministers of the USSR, the Council of Ministers of the RSFSR, the newspapers Izvestia and Pravda. Concerned activists from other areas provided enormous assistance. Thus, employees and students of Kuban State University sent a letter “Save Samarskaya Luka” to the Central Committee of the CPSU and other bodies, demanding the removal of dachas from the park, which had 977 signatures. Similar letters were sent from nature conservation teams, Gorky State University, Kazan Institute of Chemical Technology, from the Biological Faculty of Kyiv State University, from the nature conservation group of the Geographical Faculty of Moscow State University and from many others

The motto of the struggle for the preservation of Samara Luka can be considered paragraph 4.2. draft regulations (approved by the decision scientific and technical council Kuibyshev Regional Council VOOP dated December 10, 1986) about the Samarskaya Luka National Park: “In the territories (water areas) of the State National Park it is prohibited not related to its activities: the construction and operation of economic, industrial and residential facilities, long-term recreation institutions (sanatoriums, dispensaries, holiday homes, departmental recreation centers, pioneer camps), roads, communications, hydraulic structures, dacha-cooperative construction."

What are the results of Tezikova’s letters to the party control committee of the CPSU Central Committee, the regional committee of the CPSU, and all the mentioned civic activity regarding the park? Local party bodies instructed the regional executive committee and the forestry department to deal with the problems raised. Both bodies gave virtually identical answers. It was indicated that, according to the orders of the Council of Ministers of the RSFSR, land allotments even before the organization of the GPNP were made only for the Zhigulevsky Construction Materials Plant, but after the organization of the park there were no allotments. Other enterprises on Samarskaya Luka (Zhigulevskoe quarry management, limestone plant, the same building materials plant) were supposed to work here until all allocated reserves of raw materials were processed.

The issue of the future of recreation centers, pioneer camps and the organization of gardening and dacha partnerships should have been resolved after the completion of the design and survey work of the Soyuzgiproleskhoz Institute. The regional executive committee indicated that back in July 1985, measures were reviewed and agreed upon with the Giprogor Institute during the first stage of construction of the national park until 1990, which provided for the construction of new recreational facilities and the reconstruction of existing ones in the area of ​​the village of Rozhdestveno and along the Usinsky Bay , landscaping, landscaping. In the second quarter of 1987, the Soyuzgiproleskhoz Institute was supposed to complete the feasibility study for organizing the territory.

Judging by the documents, Tezikova and her colleagues were not satisfied with the measures and words of the local authorities. A letter is again sent to the Central Committee stating that the design institutes Giprogor and Soyuzgiproleskhoz have deviated from the scientific principles of designing the Samarskaya Luka State National Park. According to Tezikova, these organizations also acted on projects of other national parks. This was facilitated, according to her, by the strange position of the Central Council of the All-Union Society for Nature Conservation and its experts, who came into conflict with their own official and unofficial conclusions and recommendations, allowing violations of the consistency and timeliness of consideration of schemes, projects and regulations on the park, ignoring conclusions and proposals from the Kuibyshev scientific community at all levels. There were similar problems with the position of the scientific management of the park. I will again quote from Tezikova’s letter: “Such a situation and the actions of public expertise do not inspire confidence... If scientific logic is thrown aside and arbitrariness acts, we are forced to turn to the arbiter - the final authority of scientific and technical assessment, namely, the CPSU Central Committee and the State Planning Committee THE USSR". In her opinion, experts and arbitrators when assessing the project had to comply with certain criteria based on several important documents and the official position of Kuibyshev residents and the scientific community of various societies, departments, since 1970 on the basic principles of the park, the results of the referendum and justifications and proposals for the structure of the park design institute "Soyukhgiproleskhoz". Tezikova actually accuses the leadership of the regional executive committee of pushing changes to the park's layout, allegedly based on public opinion. But all the main interested and competent government and public organizations, noting the shortcomings of the project and the unacceptability of the second (mixed) layout option, i.e. development of non-core construction, in 1986 they firmly spoke out in favor of the tourist option, subject to its refinement. This was the opinion of the expert commission, the department for construction and architecture of the regional executive committee, the forestry department of the regional executive committee, the regional council of VOOP, the scientific and technical council of the Kuibyshev regional council of VOOP, the section of protected areas of the Kuibyshev regional council of VOOP, the regional council for tourism and excursions, the State National Park "Samarskaya Luka" ", Zhigulevsky State Reserve, Institute "Giprogor".

Tezikova’s conclusion was unequivocal: it should not be allowed that in subsequent years, counting on the forgetfulness of the public and experts, the same organizations expressed the opposite opinion under pressure from the regional executive committee and other higher authorities. In addition, the leadership of the regional committee and the regional executive committee accused her of directly misinforming the population through publications in the regional press that distorted the essence of the matter. Such materials, for example, gave the same summer residents a reason to refuse to take them out of the park in order to continue industrial developments in the park. The Zhiguli City Committee, contrary to the decision of the Council of Ministers of the RSFSR, did not prevent the continuation of quarrying in Zhiguli, thereby causing serious damage to the relict vegetation, the landscape of the Zhiguli Mountains and the Volzhskaya Hydroelectric Power Station and at the entrance to the park (Mogutova Gora). To the general outrage, a clay quarry was opened not far from such an important archaeological site as the Murom town, because before the creation of the park there were quite enough reserves of the Chapaevsky deposit.

Another problem is the subsidiary farms of city enterprises, which have nothing to do with the park. This primarily concerned the VAZ pig farm. In fact, the pig farm and the Tolyatti poultry factory, located in the very center of Luka, with the smell of their production excluded normal recreation for visitors to the Murom town and the open-air ethnographic museum that was being created.

Tezikova, in a letter to the Central Committee, says directly that the Kuibyshev Regional Executive Committee, ignoring the requests of scientists of the country and the region, the decision of the Central Committee of the VOOP in 1970 and its own decision No. 604 of October 25, 1983 on the inadmissibility of construction during the years of preparation and design of the national park, continuing to build up the most valuable coastal areas with departmental dachas. This created a deadlock situation when 24 thousand summer residents, according to experts, deprived 700 thousand people of rest.

In June 1989, the draft regional plan of the GPNP, on which there were serious contradictions, was submitted for public discussion and considered at a session of the Regional Council. The result is this: “Given the great contribution of collective gardening to the implementation of the Regional Food Program, the session of the regional Council people's deputies decided to preserve existing horticultural cooperatives on the territory of State National Park “Samarskaya Luka” and establish a special regime of use land plots and provide for measures to ensure the removal of gardening partnerships after 2010.”

Tezikova was extremely outraged by this response and wrote a corresponding letter to the first secretary of the regional committee V.G. Afonin. In fact, the first secretary was accused of actively supporting the dachas in the park through active propaganda among the population and pressure on the regional executive committee. Its main argument is that active dacha construction has absorbed the design capacity of the park, creating a double congestion in the territory, where more than 60% of the attractions have been turned into villages, similar to garden and dacha suburbs. As a result, the death of relict sites and disappointment of tourists. Tezikova says directly: “Thousands of party members - summer residents - organized and signed streams of letters in defense of their personal interests, in the most difficult time for the country, depriving the park of millions in income and hundreds of thousands of workers of their share of recreation in the park... It is impossible not to see that well-organized, united by common The interests of summer residents turn into a force dictating their conditions to deputies and the national park... The food program has nothing to do with it. Its summer residents will make the same decisions on the Left Bank. And the national park does not need degenerating dacha villages without cows, but prosperous villages with good home gardens and vegetable gardens.”

All this is only part of the problems that were raised in the correspondence of T.V. Tezikova with the authorities of the region and the country. Unfortunately, not everything was in her power and in the power of those who defended Samara Luka. But Tatyana Vladimirovna, who defended these lands long before the creation of the park, continued her struggle in the future, in another country and under another government.

Conservation and investor: should there be an alliance?

"Volga Commune"

May 2003

Collegiums of the Samara Forest Management have long been a component of the work schedules of provincial foresters, but the latest meeting clearly stood out from the traditional canons.

This time, the directors of almost all of the 14 forestry enterprises of the department arrived in the Samarskaya Luka National Park to get acquainted with its sights and features of work, because, on the one hand, the park performs tasks similar to those assigned to the forestry enterprises, and on the other hand has its own, unique status.

Here, in the national park, what is now lacking in our forestry enterprises is more clearly expressed, some of which still cannot come to terms with the need to change the forms of work,” Nikolai Bezuglov, head of the Samara Forest Department, noted at the meeting. “And it’s time to understand that we are not timber harvesting enterprises, but a state service for the protection and reproduction of forest wealth. In the Samarskaya Luka park, it is this activity that comes to the fore; it is here that considerable attention is paid to the protection of the animal and flora, environmental issues and, of course, regulating the flow of numerous tourists arriving here.

According to our status, we are called upon to preserve the integrity of unique landscapes and create conditions for the development of tourism on our territory,” said Vladimir Nazarov, director of the Samarskaya Luka National Park. - Only we have such specifics as scientific and recreational activities.

The last one, called recreational, deserves special mention. After all, this is the same prospect that has been discussed since the creation of the park 15 years ago. Even then, plans were being made to develop a fairly broad tourism infrastructure here. Not everything came to fruition, but last couple Over the years, mentions of the park have been heard more and more often. There are 76 health camps, recreation centers, and boarding houses on the territory, which received almost 50 thousand vacationers last season. The equestrian tourist shelter near the village of Shelekhmet operates interestingly and profitably, all year round provides vacationers not only with a roof over their heads, but also with horses for walking, and instructors for teaching horse riding to beginners. There are several excursion routes along the bow. The territory near the beautiful Molodetsky mound has been developed; in the clearing at its foot there are very convenient places for fire pits. True, entrance and entry into this zone have become paid, but these are the realities that we will have to get used to one way or another.

All interesting natural objects of the park have already been identified and, as they say, numbered. Today, the management of Samarskaya Luka sees its task as follows: the time has finally come to attract serious investors to the right bank, and there are already some who are ready to lease certain natural complexes. The issue of constructing a ski slope near the city of Zhigulevsk has been practically resolved. A very specific town is being built near the Usinsky Bay in the style of Russian wooden architecture, under the auspices of the “Russian hero” school of Orthodox culture. “VK” has already told its readers in detail about this construction site; the future complex is one of the first investment projects, the implementation of which is designed to attract many sightseers and pilgrims to these areas.

Plus, local businessmen, as well as tourism specialists from Italy and Spain who visited us, became seriously interested in the village of Shiryaevo and its surroundings. And most importantly, the first hearings have already taken place in the provincial Duma new program development of Samara onions. It is quite possible that it will be adopted by the end of this year.

It is clear that this side of the national park’s activities is only part general work, since there are also “traditional” protection and reproduction of forests, fish resources, wood processing from thinning raw materials, “side-stream” hay making and collection of medicinal herbs. But it is recreational programs that cause the most heated, sometimes painful, debates. Yes, we are not ready to pay for entry to the clearing, even if someone has equipped it for our convenience. Yes, we are far from overwhelmingly supporting the idea of ​​leasing the most attractive natural monuments to business people. But, according to park director Vladimir Nazarov, this is the only possible way, because no other money is expected to develop the park area of ​​127 thousand hectares.

IN last years bows appeared on the territory good roads, gas pipelines stretch to the villages. The park management does not see anything wrong with increasing the flow of vacationers, sightseers, and tenants land plots. And his, the leadership’s, task is to ensure law and order and, naturally, maintain a special environmental status.

The course of the park's management may not be controversial. There are many opponents who defend the idea of ​​Luke’s inviolability. Today here, on the right bank, many places are still untrodden. And mostly those who come here to relax are not those who prefer a luxurious pastime with large sums money in their pockets, but lovers of “wild” or extreme tourism. High-ranking summer residents from Togliatti do not count. The same trend can already be seen in the flow of foreigners who have reached here: they have heard that there is no special comfort in the “Zhiguli Switzerland”, but there are untouched landscapes, Volga grandeur and rather difficult mountain routes. So the matter is the adoption of a development program, which, it is hoped, will determine the line between the park’s entry into the large investment arena and the conservation of these beautiful places.

The directors of the Samara forestry enterprises, who took part in the work of the visiting board, were given the idea of ​​strictly

According to forest vegetation zoning, the territory of Samarskaya Luka belongs to the forest-steppe zone. According to the prevailing forest vegetation and soil conditions, it represents an island section of the northern forest-steppe that extends to the south. Samarskaya Luka, on the territory of which the Samarskaya Luka NP was formed, is formed by a bend of the Volga River and is located in the eastern part of the Russian Plain. Its territory represents the highest part of the Volga Upland, strongly dissected by ravines and gullies. The peaks of Zhiguli, reaching a highest point of up to 375 m, are located in the northern part of the Samarskaya Luka massif.

In terms of landscape, the park's territory mostly belongs to erosion-denudation karst hills and ridged plains. The territory is limited by the bend of the river. Volga. Regional center of Samara. In the northern part of Samarskaya Luka is the city of Zhigulevsk, which is not included in the boundaries of the National Park.

Samara Region

Settlements

G. Zhigulevsk

Date of formation

National Park

Active federal

Purpose

Nature conservation/biodiversity conservation

Department

Ministry of Natural Resources and Ecology of the Russian Federation

Samara Luka is unique area formed by a bend (bend) of the largest European river the Volga in its middle reaches and the Usinsky Bay of the Kuibyshev Reservoir. The Volga in this place makes a large arc, the length is about 200 km. The ancient carbonate rocks raised high here form something like an island. The Zhiguli Mountains are the only mountains of tectonic origin not only on the Volga, but also on the East European Plain.

The relief features of the Samara Luka largely determined the uniqueness of the historical fate of this region. During the period of rapid climatic changes and changes in natural zonation occurring on the Russian Plain for 3-5 million years, Samara Luka remained a refuge for many species of plants and animals, some of which then settled in the surrounding area. The scientific significance of the flora and fauna of the Zhiguli is exceptional. It was here that more than 10 plant species were first discovered for science. Some of them turned out to be narrow endemics, that is, they are not found anywhere else in the world. Of particular interest are relict species that have survived to this day from ancient geological eras. The glacier did not reach the Zhiguli Mountains and had little effect on natural complex Samara Luka.

On Samarskaya Luka, relict pine forests, oak forests, areas of shrub steppe, birch and pine woodlands, as well as extensive introzonal floodplain communities have been preserved.

Of particular importance are the species of animals and plants listed in the Red Books of all levels.

An unusually high concentration of monuments of almost all known to science cultures of the European forest-steppe, starting with Bronze Age and early iron to modern times. There are about 200 natural and historical monuments on the territory of Samarskaya Luka. It is also rich in archaeological finds. History and goals of creation

The Samarskaya Luka National Park was created in 1984 by decision of the Council of Ministers of the RSFSR (Resolution of April 28, 1984 No. 161) “On the creation of the Samarskaya Luka State National Park of the Ministry of Forestry of the RSFSR on the basis of the Zhigulevsky and Rozhdestvensky forestry enterprises. Samarskaya Luka National Park was one of the first three national parks in Russia.

SAMARSKAYA LUKA is a unique area formed by the bend (bend) of the largest European river Volga in its middle course and the Usinsky Bay of the Kuibyshev Reservoir.

The Volga in this place makes a large arc facing the east, and then turns to the southwest. Its length is more than 200 km. The ancient carbonate rocks raised high here form something like an island. ZHIGULI, whose average height is about 300 meters, are the only mountains of tectonic origin not only on the Volga, but throughout the entire vast territory of the Russian Plain.

The unique forms of relief, the peculiar microclimate, the amazing beauty of the mountains, the blue necklace of the Volga that frames them, the unique flora and fauna have earned Zhiguli and Samarskaya Luka generally worldwide fame.

Even at the end of the 18th century, ancient and dense forests grew on Samara Luka. These were oak-linden and complex pine-oak forests, pine forests on the slopes, and centuries-old birch forests along the wide bottoms of ancient valleys. But these forests were subsequently subjected to repeated felling, giving away their strength and beauty to people.

Due to the wide variety of plants, from early spring to late autumn, the rocky steppes are covered with one or the other flowers, and change this colorful outfit almost every week. The scientific significance of the Zhiguli vegetation is exceptional. It was here that 6 plant species were first discovered for science. Three of them turned out to be narrow endemics of the Zhiguli, that is, they are not found anywhere else in the world. This is Euphorbia Zhigulevskiy, sunflower coinifolia, pumpkin Zhigulevskiy. There are also many less narrow endemics here, the areas of distribution of which cover not only Zhiguli - for example, Zhiguli thyme (thyme), which is found only on the Volga Upland.

Of particular interest are relict species that have survived to this day from ancient geological eras (pre-glacial, glacial and post-glacial periods). The glacier did not reach the Zhiguli Mountains and had little effect on the natural complex of Samarskaya Luka. Most of the relics grow in the mountain rocky steppe.

The uniqueness of the fauna of Samara Luka lies in the fact that at least 30% of vertebrates live here on the border of their ranges. For example, Siberian and taiga species - the common viper, viviparous lizard, long-tailed owl, tawny owl, capercaillie, hazel grouse and others. And in the immediate vicinity of them live typical southern and steppe species - patterned snake, marsh turtle, water snake, golden bee-eater, etc.

Of great interest are relict species separated by a considerable distance from their main habitat - common mole rat, patterned runner. The alpine longhorned beetle and the steppe grasshopper are relict species.

The modern fauna of mammals is also diverse - elk, wild boar, roe deer, wolf, lynx, badger, fox, brown and hare hares, marten, muskrat and others.

On Samarskaya Luka there is an unusually large concentration of monuments of almost all cultures of the European forest-steppe known to science from the Bronze and Early Iron Ages to the present.

There are about 200 natural and historical monuments on the territory of Samarskaya Luka. It is also rich in archaeological finds. Of these, the most interesting are the Murom town - one of the largest settlements in Volga Bulgaria of the 9th - 13th centuries, as well as a fortified settlement of the 4th - 5th centuries. on Mount Belaya, burial mounds of the 7th - 8th centuries. AD near the village of Novinki.

The history of Samara Luka is closely connected with the names of famous historical figures- Alexander Menshikov, the Orlov brothers, Cossack freemen Ermak, Stepan Razin, Emelyan Pugachev.

The first information about these lands is in Russian chronicles, as well as in the notes of travelers and scientists Olearius, Tatishchev, Pallas and others. The uniquely beautiful nature and rich history of Zhiguli had a noticeable influence on the work of the artist I.E. Repin and poets A.V. .Shiryaevets, I.I.Dmitriev and many others.

SAMARA LUKA
national park

Location and history of the Samarskaya Luka National Park

The Samarskaya Luka National Park was formed in 1984 on the territory of the Samara region in order to preserve the natural complexes of Samarskaya Luka, which have special ecological and aesthetic value. Samara Luka is a territory bounded by a bend of the Volga in its middle course. In the northern part, the national park is adjacent to the Zhigulevsky State Nature Reserve and the city of Zhigulevsk. Otherwise, the outer boundaries of the park represent the natural boundaries of the Volga bend.

The national park is located on the territory of the Volzhsky, Stavropol and Syzransky administrative districts The total area of ​​the park is 127.2 thousand hectares, of which 66.1 thousand hectares (52.0% of the total area) of forest fund lands are provided to the national park, 61.1 thousand hectares (48.0%) of lands of other owners, owners and users are included within the boundaries of the park without removing them from economic use. The lands allocated to the national park are categorized as follows. Forest lands occupy 62.1 thousand hectares (92.8% of the forest fund area), including forested lands - 61.8 thousand hectares (94.0%). Among non-forest lands, waters occupy 0.6 thousand hectares (less than 1%), swamps - 0.7 thousand hectares (1.1%), roads and clearings - 0.5 thousand hectares (less than -1%), estates - 0.1 thousand hectares (less than 1%), arable lands, hayfields and gardens -1.3 thousand hectares (2%). Agricultural lands occupy about 40% of the park's area, of which arable land - 71%, hayfields - 7%, pastures - 22%. The Syzran-Zhigulevsk-Togliatti railway runs through the western part of the park. The road network consists of the Moscow-Samara national road and eight local roads.

Nature of the Samarskaya Luka National Park

The following plant formations are distinguished here: Eastern European forest-steppe and steppe pine forests, Eastern European broad-leaved forests, steppes and farmland in their place, floodplain vegetation. Boreal and nemoral plants are found here, preserved from ice age: common bearberry, Siberian dinlasia, Altai anemone, pedunculate oak, hazel, etc. The boundaries of the ranges of a number of plant species lie on the territory of Samarskaya Luka. Of particular scientific interest are plants endemic to the Samara Luka and Zhigulevskaya Uplands: Volga carnation, Zhigulevskiy kachim, Zhigulevskiy euphorbia, Zhigulevskiy thyme, and 18 plant species are listed in the Red Book of the Russian Federation (1988).

Deciduous forests predominate - 97.9%, including linden forests - 49%, oak forests - 26%, aspen forests - 18%. Communities of other species make up a small proportion: birch forests - 2%, maple forests - 1%, communities with smooth and bare elms - 1%, black poplar - 1% > ash - less than 1%. Coniferous plantations occupy only 2.1% and are represented by pine.

Animals of the Samarskaya Luka National Park

On the territory of the national park, 304 species of terrestrial vertebrates have been recorded: 71 species of mammals, 212 species of birds, 1 species of reptiles, and 10 species of amphibians. The ichthyofauna of Samara Luka includes 68 species and subspecies.

At least 30% of the terrestrial vertebrate animal species that breed here live near the boundaries of their ranges. Along with widespread species, species of European broad-leaved and coniferous-deciduous forests predominate - dormouse, forest dormouse, yellow-throated mouse, bank vole, gray owl, clint, green woodpecker, white-necked flycatcher, etc. There are many taiga species that have the southern boundaries of their ranges here - elk, mountain hare, housekeeper vole, flying squirrel, long-tailed owl, boreal owl, capercaillie, green warbler and etc. In the immediate vicinity of them live such “southern” steppe semi-desert and/or desert species as the common mole rat, the common mole vole, the little ground squirrel, the steppe mouse, the firebuck, the black-headed gull, the little owl, the field pipit, the marsh turtle, the multi-colored foot-and-mouth disease , patterned snake, water snake. Some species are found at the western boundaries of their distribution: the great ground squirrel, the yellow-backed wagtail, etc.

Currently, in the area of ​​the national park there are 10 species of vertebrates and 28 species of invertebrate animals listed in the Red Book of the Russian Federation: osprey, white-tailed eagle, wax hermit, alpine longhorned beetle, steppe racket, etc. Stag beetle, swallowtail, podalirium, In the past, carpenter bees were listed in the Red Book of the USSR.

Initial information about the national park was kindly provided by the administration of the resource www.biodiversity.ru

A unique area formed by the bend (bend) of the largest European river, the Volga, in its middle course and the Usinsky Bay of the Kuibyshev Reservoir.

The Volga in this place makes a large arc facing the east, and then turns to the southwest. Its length is more than 200 km. The ancient carbonate rocks raised high here form something like an island. ZHIGULI, whose average height is about 300 meters, are the only mountains of tectonic origin not only on the Volga, but throughout the entire vast territory of the Russian Plain.

The unique forms of relief, the peculiar microclimate, the amazing beauty of the mountains, the blue necklace of the Volga that frames them, the unique flora and fauna have earned Zhiguli and Samarskaya Luka generally worldwide fame.

Even at the end of the 18th century, ancient and dense forests grew on Samara Luka. These were oak-linden and complex pine-oak forests, pine forests on the slopes, and centuries-old birch forests along the wide bottoms of ancient valleys. But these forests were subsequently subjected to repeated felling, giving away their strength and beauty to people.

Due to the wide variety of plants, from early spring to late autumn, the rocky steppes are covered with one or the other flowers, and change this colorful outfit almost every week. The scientific significance of the Zhiguli vegetation is exceptional. It was here that 6 plant species were first discovered for science. Three of them turned out to be narrow endemics of the Zhiguli, that is, they are not found anywhere else in the world. This is Euphorbia Zhigulevskiy, sunflower coinifolia, pumpkin Zhigulevskiy. There are also many less narrow endemics here, the areas of distribution of which cover not only Zhiguli - for example, Zhiguli thyme (thyme), which is found only on the Volga Upland.

Of particular interest are relict species that have survived to this day from ancient geological eras (pre-glacial, glacial and post-glacial periods). The glacier did not reach the Zhiguli Mountains and had little effect on the natural complex of Samarskaya Luka. Most of the relics grow in the mountain rocky steppe.

The uniqueness of the fauna of Samara Luka lies in the fact that at least 30% of vertebrates live here on the border of their ranges. For example, Siberian and taiga species - the common viper, viviparous lizard, long-tailed owl, tawny owl, capercaillie, hazel grouse and others. And in the immediate vicinity of them live typical southern and steppe species - patterned snake, marsh turtle, water snake, golden bee-eater, etc.

Of great interest are relict species separated by a considerable distance from their main habitat - the common mole rat, the patterned snake. The alpine longhorned beetle and the steppe grasshopper are relict species.

The modern fauna of mammals is also diverse - elk, wild boar, roe deer, wolf, lynx, badger, fox, brown and hare hares, marten, muskrat and others.

On Samarskaya Luka there is an unusually large concentration of monuments of almost all cultures of the European forest-steppe known to science from the Bronze and Early Iron Ages to the present.

There are about 200 natural and historical monuments on the territory of Samarskaya Luka. It is also rich in archaeological finds. Of these, the most interesting are the Murom town - one of the largest settlements in Volga Bulgaria of the 9th - 13th centuries, as well as a fortified settlement of the 4th - 5th centuries. on Mount Belaya, burial mounds of the 7th - 8th centuries. AD near the village of Novinki.

The history of Samara Luka is closely connected with the names of famous historical figures - Alexander Menshikov, the Orlov brothers, the Cossack freemen Ermak, Stepan Razin, Emelyan Pugachev.

The first information about these lands is in Russian chronicles, as well as in the notes of travelers and scientists Olearius, Tatishchev, Pallas and others. The uniquely beautiful nature and rich history of Zhiguli had a noticeable influence on the work of the artist I.E. Repin and poets A.V. .Shiryaevets, I.I.Dmitriev and many others.

It is located in the north-west of Samara Luka, where the 75-kilometer picturesque ridge of the Zhiguli Mountains begins. This peak, covered with many legends and traditions, rises like a silent guardian of the Zhiguli from the waters of the Volga Reservoir not far from the entrance to the Usinsky Bay. The height of the mound is just over 200 meters (242.8).

One of the legends says that a strong and mighty fellow was in love with the beautiful Volga, but he was not in love with her, the gray-haired Caspian captivated the girl’s heart. Well done didn’t want to let his beloved see his rival, he blocked her path with his retinue, but the beauty deceived her, put her to sleep with sweet speeches, and she herself, rounding the giant, ran away to the distant Caspian Sea. Many centuries have passed since then, the Molodets has turned to stone, turning to the Molodetsky Kurgan, his enchanted squad is overgrown with forest, the Volga always lulls them with its incessant murmur. And so Samara Luka and the Zhiguli Mountains were born.

But this is a legend, in fact, once upon a time, on the path of the river (which flowed directly to the south and there was no bend), a fold almost 100 kilometers long arose due to the displacement of earth layers, and to the north a trough formed, where the waters rushed rivers, this is how the bizarre and legendary bend of the Volga gradually formed.

The Molodetsky Kurgan has long repeatedly attracted the attention of many famous scientists and travelers. Jan Streis, Pyotr Pallas, Ivan Lepyokhin and others were here. People composed songs, legends and ballads about him. The Molodetsky Kurgan is closely connected in legends with the names and deeds of Stepan Razin, his atamans and freemen.

Indeed, this mound is unique in its essence. Sheer cliffs and ledges give the mound a stern appearance. In some places, a rocky steppe can be seen on a thin layer of crushed stone soil. But one of its slopes is covered with thick deciduous forest, and on the top of the mound relict pine trees grow, rapidly rising up against the sky.

The steppes consist mainly of endemic flora, many species are listed in the Red Book. There are also relicts here, species preserved from the pre-glacial period. These areas are home to Europe's largest population of Shiverekia Podolia, an endangered plant. In the vicinity of the Molodetsky Kurgan you can find very rare representatives fauna: white-tailed eagle, steppe racket, Apollo and swallowtail butterflies, etc.

From the side of the Usinsky Bay, a hiking trail rises through a forest area to the top of the mound. From here you can see a wide, majestic panorama of the reservoir, Usinsky Bay, surrounding mountains (Devya Gora, Mount Lepyoshka, etc.) and the city of Togliatti. Previously, before the flooding, opposite the Molodetsky Kurgan there was a large Kalmyk island, behind it, on the other side of the river, was the wooden one-story city of Stavropol. After the flooding, the water level rose by 29 meters, the lower half of the shallow, narrow Usa River (its name comes from the word “usa”) turned into the large Usinsky Bay.

Molodetsky Kurgan is very popular among tourists (including foreign ones) visiting Samarskaya Luka. Various events are often held on the shores of the Usinsk Bay: sports competitions, environmental actions, all kinds of gatherings, among which the gathering named after Yuri Zakharov is the most popular and attracts numerous lovers of bard songs.

The object is included in the excursion routes of the national park.

Devya, or Maiden Mountain is located at the mouth of the Zhigulevskaya Pipe ravine, next to the Molodetsky Kurgan, the younger sister of which it is called. The height above the level of the Volga is only 50 meters, and due to the Kuibyshev reservoir, more than half of the mountain was flooded in the 50s. But even now Devya Mountain looks majestic, falling steeply into the waves foaming at its foot.

Many legends are associated with this rock. They say that a certain dashing chieftain seduced a beautiful girl. She decided to run away from her unloved one and, pretending to be affectionate and tender, persuaded the chieftain to sit on the edge of a cliff by the river. And when he fell asleep in her arms, she pushed him down the cliff.

Another legend connects Devyu Mountain with the Molodetsky Kurgan. During the time of Stepan Razin, there lived a poor young man, Ivan Molodtsov, and a handsome beauty, the daughter of the Usolsky rich man, Grunya. They fell in love with each other, but the girl’s father did not want to marry his daughter to a poor, rootless man, and threatened him with cruel death if he did not give up on Grunya. Ivan went to Stepan Razin's free prison, hoping to get riches and then woo his beloved.

But the tsar’s troops defeated the ataman’s army, and Ivan’s small band hid in Zhiguli. He sent a message to Gruna, wanted to see her goodbye. The girl's father found out about their date and led the Tsar's riflemen in the footsteps of his daughter. The battle was unequal and long. They mortally wounded Ivan, overtaking him and Grunya at the top of a rocky cliff. And Ivan Molodtsov rushed down from the cliff with words of farewell on his lips.

Grunya screamed like a wounded bird and ran down the slope, trying to catch up with her beloved, followed by her father and the archers. She ran up the hill that hung over the Volga and rushed down the steep slope after her sweetheart. Since then, the mound was nicknamed Molodetsky, and the mountain that pressed closely to it was called Devya.

It is not known how true the legends are, but the fact that Stepan Razin’s patrol camp was located at the foot of the Devya Mountain is a historical fact.

The surroundings of Devya Gora and Molodetsky Kurgan are a favorite place for tourists to visit and relax; various festivals and rallies are held here every year. The most popular is the tourist rally named after Yuri Zakharov, which attracts numerous fans of art songs.

The object is included in the excursion routes of the Samarskaya Luka National Park.

- a bizarre rocky peak near Krestovaya Polyana, not far from the village of Shiryaevo, in the “Goat Horns” tract, so called because from a certain place the shape of the rock hanging over the Volga resembled the head of this animal. Unfortunately, due to erosion, the rock is constantly being destroyed and its appearance is changing. Here, outcrops of ancient rocks, the wide expanse of the Volga and dense forest thickets are surprisingly combined. From the top of the mountain there is a magnificent panorama of the surrounding area and the opposite bank of the Volga, the famous Zhigulevsky Gate and the cut off top of Tsarev Kurgan. Tsarev Kurgan is a remnant of the once united Zhiguli mountain range. And the Zhigulevsky Gate is the narrowest place (700 m) in the Volga valley in its middle course; the speed of the river flow in this place is greater than in any other.

The bowels of Mount Camel are cut by underground galleries (adits), which are cool even on the hottest days. The rail tracks along which wheelbarrows loaded with limestone were pushed at the beginning of the century are still preserved here. Today the adits are favored by bats. In these artificial caves this moment one of the largest colonies winters bats in the Volga region. Often in the area of ​​Mount Camel you can meet a wide variety of fauna, as well as rare endemic and relict plant species.

Not far from the mountain is the village of Shiryaevo. It was listed in the census already in 1647. The village most likely got its name from its location - it is located at the wide mouth of the largest and widest ancient Zhiguli valley. For a long time the village of Shiryaevo was a place short rest barge haulers. Here, in Shiryaevo, Repin worked on his famous painting “Barge Haulers on the Volga”. In the house in which he lived and worked for some time, the I.E. Repin Museum was created. In addition, the village residents honor the memory of their fellow countryman - the poet Alexander Vasilyevich Abramov, who took the pseudonym Shiryaevets after the name of his native Volga village.

The unique nature of the Shiryaevsky ravine, the historical past of the village of the same name, and the splendor of the open spaces opening from the top of Mount Camel attract tourists from different cities and countries to these places. Currently, in accordance with the draft regional planning of the Samarskaya Luka National Park, the village of Shiryaevo is one of the basic centers of tourism in Samarskaya Luka. Here, on Mount Camel, climbers and mountain tourists have equipped a climbing wall. All of the above objects are included in the excursion routes of the national park.

In the area of ​​the village of Podgory, the Zhiguli Mountains themselves end and turn into a plateau, which rises 40-50 m above the Volga. The plateau, dissected by ravines and hollows, which alternate with protruding rocks and steep foreheads, has the appearance of a mountain range covered with a shady forest. At the foot of this mountain range there are villages, by the names of which individual sections of the ridge located in the vicinity of these villages are called, respectively, the Novinsky, Shelekhmet and Vinnovsky mountains.

The beginning of the Shelekhmet Mountains is considered to be the Visly Kamen cliff, located near the Mordovian village of Shelekhmet, in the area of ​​​​the Snake Backwater.

Visly Kamen- a rock that hangs enormously above the water at an altitude of 70-80 meters. It is composed of thick layers of limestone. Around the rock, along the steep slopes, oaks, lindens, and maples grow. Among the herbaceous vegetation there are lilies of the valley, violets, kupena, bean grass, etc.

The top of the Visly Stone is a small platform (cornice) and hangs over the abyss. In profile, the rock resembles a bearded old man, so it has another name - “Stone Grandfather”. The top of the rock is overgrown with sparse steppe and edge vegetation: feather grass, oregano, various types of wormwood, etc. There is a wonderful observation deck up here. It offers magnificent views of the Snake Backwater and the Shelekhmet Mountains, but it is unsafe to be on it, as the rock is gradually being destroyed.

At the foot of the Stone, Lake Vislokamenka, or Zmeinoye, divided into many branches, spilled out (area 47 hectares). Old-timers still call it a lake, since before the construction of a cascade of reservoirs on the Volga, it was connected to the river only during high water. After the water level in the Volga rose, Zmeinoye Lake merged with it, forming a long and narrow bay-erik. They say that the lake (and now the backwater) got its name because there were always a lot of snakes in these places. To this day, these places are considered the most serpentine on Samarskaya Luka. However, meetings with poisonous viper quite rare. The most common snakes are snakes, as well as a rare snake - the patterned snake (Samarskaya Luka is the northernmost border of its range).

About 120 species of plants were found in the vicinity of Visly Kamen, including those listed in the Red Book, for example, the marsh moth. In the surrounding area you can often see elk and roe deer. Not long ago, this area was chosen by several pairs of swans and a family of beavers.

The Shelekhmet Mountains experience heavy anthropogenic pressure from nearby large industrial centers (Samara, Novokuibyshevsk) and their recreation areas.

Here, especially in summer, there is a large influx of tourists and vacationers. In addition to the Visly Kamen, tourists are attracted by caves, since the Shelekhmet Mountains are composed of limestones and dolomites of the Permian system and are replete with sinkholes, depressions and caves. One of the most famous is the cave of Stepan Razin. In the ridge of the Shelekhmet Mountains, two highest points stand out - Lvov Mountain and Mount Osh-Pando-Ner. At the top of Mount Osh-Pando-Ner, the remains of a settlement - an ancient fortification of the 11th - 12th centuries - have been preserved.

The objects are included in the excursion routes of the national park.

At the very foot of the Shelekhmet Mountains, in the southeast of Samara Luka, the Volga Bay spreads across the valley, it is called (area 47 hectares). Old-timers still call it a lake, since before the construction of a cascade of reservoirs on the Volga, it was connected to the river only during high water. After the water level in the Volga rose, Zmeinoye Lake merged with it, forming a long and narrow bay-erik.

They say that the lake (and now the backwater) got its name because there were always a lot of snakes in these places. In other years, it was impossible to step without bumping into a crawling snake. To this day, these places are considered the most serpentine on Samarskaya Luka. However, encounters with a poisonous viper are quite rare. The most common are snakes, which in the spring form balls of moving “loving” individuals. A rare snake is also found here - the patterned snake (Samarskaya Luka is the northernmost border of its range).

If you're lucky, you can also see a white-tailed eagle - a bird of prey listed in the Red Book. There are kites, roe deer, wild boars and many other animals in the Snake Bay area.

The vegetation of this small area with unique natural communities: meadows, rocky steppes, forests - coniferous and deciduous, also rich and varied. All this taken together creates the unique beauty of these places and attracts a large number of tourists.

In addition to the national park, on the territory of Samarskaya Luka there is another specially protected natural area- Zhigulevsky State Nature Reserve named after. I.I.Sprygina, one of the oldest nature reserves Russia.