Nechaeva N. A., Zdanovich V
The river is located within the Kamchatka Territory.
In Itelmen language - "Uykoal" ("big river"). There are more than 20 versions of the origin of the toponym "Kamchatka". According to one of them, the name of the peninsula comes from the Kamchatka River, which, in turn, was named after a Cossack who crossed the peninsula with his detachment in 1658–1660.
The length of the river is 758 km, the area of the basin is 55.9 thousand km 2, the average height of the basin is 560 m, the total fall of the river is 1200 m, the average slope is 1.58‰. In terms of basin area, Kamchatka ranks second among rivers. Kamchatka Territory(after Penzhina) and 33rd - in Russia. The Kamchatka River is formed from the melting of snowfields at the bottom of a deep bowl-shaped gorge in the southern part of the Sredinny Range. Most of the river is located within the Central Kamchatka depression, which is bounded by the Sredinny Ridge on the left side, and the Vostochny Ridge on the right side. In the middle reaches, the river bends around the Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes, and in the lower reaches it breaks through a narrow gorge (Bolshiye Shcheki) through the Kumroch ridge, enters the coastal lowland and flows into the Kamchatka Bay of the Pacific Ocean. When entering the sea, the mouth of the river is blocked by a mouth bar. At the mouth, the river is connected by a wide channel with the largest lake on the peninsula Nerpichy.
There are 7,707 rivers in the Kamchatka basin with a total length of 30,352 km, the average density coefficient of the river network is 0.54 km / km 2. Most of the rivers (7105) are less than 10 km long. Main tributaries: Right Kamchatka (30 km), Kavycha (108), Vakhvina Left (94 km), Kitilgina (140 km), Shchapina (172 km), Tolbachik (148 km), Bolshaya Khapitsa (111 km) (right); Andrianovka (92 km), Kirganik (121 km), Bolshaya Kimitina (105), Kozyrevka (222 km), Elovka (244 km), Raduga (84 km) (left).
The climate in the basin is close to temperate continental. In the distribution of annual precipitation over the territory, there is a large heterogeneity, due, in addition to general circulation air masses as well as varied relief. The average annual precipitation varies from 440 mm in the middle reaches of the river (Kozyrevsk) to 600–800 mm in its upper reaches (Milkovo and Pushchino, respectively) and 710 mm in the lower part of the basin (Ust-Kamchatsk). Modern glaciation in the river basin is developed mainly on the tops and slopes of high volcanic mountains, especially in the Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes.
The altitudinal zonality is well expressed in the river basin. In the lower reaches, the river flows through a swampy lowland, composed of light brown loams and sandy loams, peat-gley and peat soils. Vegetation cover within its limits is represented by alder-willow forest and shrubs. In the middle reaches of the river, larch forests are common with an admixture of spruce and white birch. AT upstream sparse groves of white and stone birch predominate with upland meadows on weakly podzolic soils. In the upper reaches of the tributaries Kamchatka has mountain tundra.
The Kamchatka River is fed mainly by underground (50–60% of the annual volume) and snow. The main phase of its water regime is the spring-summer flood, during which 50–75% of the annual runoff passes. The flood usually comes in two waves. The first is due to the melting of snow in the valley, and the second is due to the melting of snowfields in the mountains. After the high water, a relatively high-water stable low water occurs (September–October). The increased water content of this period was caused by abundant ground supply and the ongoing melting of glaciers and snowfields. Winter low water starts at late October, ends in late April - early May; its average duration is 170–180 days.
In the upper reaches of the river, the modules of the annual runoff are quite large and amount to about 20–26 l/(sqm2). In the middle and lower reaches of the river, runoff moduli are noticeably smaller, about 16 l/(sqm2). The average long-term volume of water runoff at the mouth of Kamchatka is 30.4 km 3 , in the area of Bolshiye Shcheki - 28.1 km 3 . Approximately half is the underground component.
The long-term average turbidity of water in Kamchatka is 50 g/m 3 in the upper reaches, 130–170 g/m 3 in the middle reaches, and 85–90 g/m 3 in the lower reaches. The average long-term module of sediment runoff of the river is about 99.4 t/km 2 ∙year. A significant amount of suspended material comes with the waters of right-bank tributaries flowing down from the slopes of active volcanoes. Therefore, after the activation of volcanoes, the water turbidity and sediment runoff in the Kamchatka River usually increase markedly (as was the case after the largest eruptions of the Bezymyanny and Shiveluch volcanoes in the 20th century in 1956 and 1964, respectively). In the Kamchatka basin, cases of mudflows are not uncommon. The most significant was the mud-stone flow that descended along the bed of Bolshaya Khapitsa after the catastrophic eruption of the Bezymyanny volcano in March 1956.
The mineralization of river water varies from 35–100 mg/l in high water to 200 mg/l in low water. The water in the river belongs to the hydrocarbonate class, during the flood period it has a slightly pronounced sulfate character. The population and production facilities in the Kamchatka basin are supplied with water mainly from underground sources.
On the river there are large settlements of Milkovo, Kozyrevsk, Klyuchi and Ust-Kamchatsk. In the middle of the XX century. shipping in Kamchatka was carried out until the village. Milkovo (576 km from the mouth). It usually lasted from May to October. To date, after the completion of the construction of the highway that connected Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky with all the villages on the Kamchatka River, river navigation has actually ceased. In with. Ust-Kamchatsk has a port that accepts sea vessels with a small draft. There is one hydroelectric power station operating in the river basin - the derivative Bystrinskaya. The Kamchatka River with its tributaries is the most important center for the reproduction of salmon fish (chum salmon, sockeye salmon, coho salmon, chinook salmon and pink salmon) in the region.
More than six thousand large and small rivers flow through the territory of the Kamchatka Territory.
The Bolshaya River, which flows into the Sea of Okhotsk, is the second most important fishing river after the Kamchatka River. The history of the development of the peninsula as an administrative unit of the Russian Empire began with it.
Geography
The Bolshaya River is formed by the confluence of two large Kamchatka rivers: Bystraya and Plotnikova. The source of the river Bystroy is located on the northwestern spurs of the Ganalskie Vostryaki ridge, where two more major rivers— Kamchatka and Avacha. The length of the Bolshoi River (from the Bystraya River) is 275 km, the total fall is 1060 m.
First, the Bystraya flows south along the Sredinny Ridge, along the Ganal tundra, and after confluence with the river. Plotnikova, having already formed the river. Large, turns to the southwest. In the upper reaches of the river The ancient villages of Ganaly and Malki are located in Fast. off the western coast of Kamchatka. Bolshaya spills into a vast estuary and flows along the sea coast to the southeast, where it flows into the Sea of Okhotsk, forming a huge lake at the mouth. It is navigable from the mouth to the Oktyabrsky settlement.
Story
V. Martynenko in the book “Kamchatsky Shore. Historical Pilot (1991) writes: “The largest river of the Kamchatka western coast, Bolshaya, has been known to Russians since the end of the 17th century, since the famous campaign of the Pentecostal V. Atlasov, who marched with a detachment in 1697 along the western coast of the peninsula from the Ichi River to the Nynguchu River ( Golygina). In the “Drawing of the Kamchadal Lands Again” compiled at the turn of the 17th-18th centuries, its author, the Siberian cartographer S. Remezov, based on the results of Atlasov’s campaign, plotted the Bolshaya River with an explanatory inscription: “fell into the Penzhina Sea by many mouths.” Penzhinsky or Lamsky was originally called the Sea of Okhotsk. In 1707, the Bolshaya River was noted in the report of the Cossack Rodion Presnetsov with a variant of the distorted local name - Kiksha. The toponym Kiksha (Kyksha) is also found on some old Russian drawings of Kamchatka and probably goes back to the Itelmen word "kyg", which means "river". The origin of the Russian name was later explained by S. Krasheninnikov: “Big is called because of all the rivers flowing into the Penzhina Sea, one can walk along it alone from the mouth to the very top.”
At the beginning of the XVIII century. Russia actively explored the Far Eastern borders of the empire. Russian sailors laid a sea route 603 miles long from Okhotsk to the mouth of the river. Large and in 1703-1704. built a winter hut a few tens of kilometers above the mouth, later called the Bolsheretsky prison. In those days, the river did not meander along the coast, but flowed straight downstream into the Sea of Okhotsk (Fig. 2). Near the mouth there was a large bay, elongated to the south (such bays in Kamchatka have long been called "kultuks", hence, by the way, the name of Lake Kultuchnoye in Petropavlovsk, it was once the bay of Avacha Bay).
Entrance of ships at the mouth of the river. Big in good weather and high tides was safe enough, and ships that entered the bay were safely sheltered from storms.
We find in S. Krasheninnikov's "Description of the Land of Kamchatka":
“Chekavina, in Kamchatka, the Shkhvachu River, two versts from the mouth of Bolshaya ... It is worthy of note because sea vessels winter in it, which is why there are barracks for guards and storerooms from the Kamchatka expedition built. Vessels are launched into it during the rising water, and into the receding water it is so narrow that you can jump over it, and so shallow that the ships are lying on their sides, but there is no damage to them because its bottom is soft.
Thus, in those days, the Chekavinskaya harbor served not only as a haven for ships, but also served as a kind of dry dock.
According to some historical information, the mouth at Chekavka was dug artificially. A geologist by education and a traveler in life, the German scientist Karl von Ditmar, being an official for special assignments for the mining part under the governor Vasily Stepanovich Zavoyko, studied Kamchatka. .jpg)
Dietmar map. Reconstruction of Semenov.
Here is what he writes in his book "Trips and stay in Kamchatka in 1851-1855":
“October 3rd (1853 - author's note). They say that in the old pre-Russian times, the bag-shaped bay of the Bolshaya River, which currently runs very far to the south, opened into the sea precisely at the southern end, but the Kamchadals, who then lived here, decided to dig a spit against the mouth of the river in order to arrange a closer and more convenient for fishing her way. It ended with the fact that during the work the dam suddenly burst, and many people died in the water that immediately gushed out. Soon after that, the old, southern, channel was completely swept away by the waves. Through a new, artificially made much more to the north, channel then, in the early days of Russian rule - the time of the prosperity of Bolsheretsk - they entered the bay to the parking lot of ships, as if they were entering a calm deep harbor. Against the mouth of this bay into the sea, on the side of the mainland, at the very confluence of the river. Bolshoy into the bay (Turn), a small village Chekavka arose, where goods were unloaded, assigned to Bolsheretsk. There were several residential buildings, many shops and a beacon with mica glass to indicate the mouth of the Bolshaya to ships. Chekavka was, in fact, the harbor of Bolsheretsk, located 20 versts above, and for many years served for Kamchatka as the only point through which the peninsula was in communication with Russia through Okhotsk.
It was from the Chekavinskaya harbor that the rebellious Kamchatka exiled settlers, led by the Polish confederate Maurycy Benievsky (Benevsky), captured the galliot “St. Peter", fled south, eventually reaching China, and then to France.
Naval historian A. Sgibnev in his work "Historical sketch of the main events in Kamchatka from 1650 to 1856" writes:
“April 30 (1771 - ed.) Benievsky with his accomplices moved onto rafts and went down the river. Bystry to Chekavka (that was the name of the wintering place for ships near the mouth of the Bolshaya River, where two huts and a barn were built to store goods delivered from Okhotsk - author), taking with him all the people he arrested. Having taken possession of ships and a barn with government supplies on Chekavka, he ordered the vessel “St. Peter "as more reliable."
Ships that came from the Aleutian and Kuril Islands and Okhotsk or were heading there from Kamchatka defended themselves in the bay against Chekavka. The calm Chekavinskaya harbor was essentially a sea suburb of the Bolsheretsky prison. But already in the late 1850s. the channel leading to the sea was covered with sand, the river began to break into the ocean to the south and formed a new mouth there.
The German scientist and traveler Georg Adolf Erman, who was in Kamchatka 24 years earlier than K. Dietmar, put on his map a slightly different configuration of the mouth of the river. Large (Fig. 3). The names of the rivers Bolshaya, Bystraya, Utka, Kikhchik, Amchigacha, Nachilova, Goltsovka, Baanyu (once it was called Bannaya, and now Plotnikova) and others, mapped by A. Erman, have survived to our time. But r. The Chekavina at the mouth of the Bolshoy disappeared from the maps. We can safely assume that Chekavinskaya harbor became the first seaport of Kamchatka.
Mouth of the Bolshoi River
The entrance to the mouths of the Kamchatka rivers has always been unsafe for sailors. On the so-called "bars" (emphasis on the second letter "a"), where fast current fresh water and sea ramparts, there are always water rushes, rips, chaotic whirlpools, high waves, swell and unpredictable current directions. Our rivers can suddenly change the fairway, and the sea can wash up sand where yesterday there was a deep channel.
Let us turn once again to the book of V. Martynenko:
“In the Russian history of Kamchatka, an overwhelming number of shipwrecks and emergencies are associated with the Bolsheretsky mouth. The first in this tragic series is the boat of the Second Kamchatka Expedition "Fortuna". Departing in 1737 at the direction of V. Bering from Okhotsk to explore the Avacha Bay, the ship under the command of the navigator E. Rodichev crashed when entering the mouth of the Bolshaya. Among the survivors was a student S. Krasheninnikov, a researcher of Kamchatka.
Seven years later, the fate of Fortuna was shared by the Bolsheretsk sloop, a small boat built in Kamchatka from birch forest and therefore called "birch". Launched in 1739 and assigned to the expedition of M. Spanberg, the ship in the same year sailed to the shores of unknown Japan, and in 1742 repeated this voyage. Upon returning from the Japanese campaign, the Bolsheretsk crashed at the mouth of the Bolshaya River.
In 1748, a similar tragedy happened to the Okhotsk galliot under the command of the navigator Bakhmetyev. The galliot, anchored against the Bolsheretsky mouth, was thrown ashore by an autumn storm and wrecked. Most of the crew, including the commander, died.
In October 1753, misfortune befell three ships of the detachment of Lieutenant V. Khmetevsky, sailing from Okhotsk to Bolsheretsk. Waiting for a favorable situation to enter the mouth of the packet boat "St. John", gookor "St. Peter" and the double-sloop "Nadezhda" were washed ashore by a storm in various areas of the west coast. It was possible to fix and launch only one of the ships - the gookor "St. Peter". It was the same ship that was built from the remains of the packet boat of the same name by V. Bering, sailors who survived the tragic winter. But the saved namesake of the famous captain-commander ship was destined for a short life. Two years later, while sailing from Yamsk to Okhotsk, the gukor was driven back by a storm to the western coast of Kamchatka and finally wrecked near the mouth of the Vorovskaya River.
In the forty years that have passed since the opening of the sea route from Okhotsk to Kamchatka, the Ust-Bolsheretsk coast has become a real ship graveyard. In 1766, the largest catastrophe occurred, which essentially doomed a major sea expedition under the command of P. Krenitsyn and M. Levashov to failure. The expedition began sailing from the port of Okhotsk on four ships on October 10, 1766.
crashes
Documents of those years provide a clear idea of the outcome of this expedition.
Brigantine "Saint Catherine". Commander 2nd-Class Captain P. Krenitsyn. Leaving Okhotsk in mid-October, together with three ships, equipment for discoveries on the Eastern Ocean, they parted and were all washed ashore in different places. “Saint Catherine”, which had a strong leak throughout the journey, upon arrival at the Kamchatka coast, already standing against the Bolsheretsky mouth with only one remaining anchor and two poles, with lowered yards and topmasts, on the night of October 25 was thrown ashore on its left side near the Utka River, two versts south of it ... and broken. With great difficulty, the team moved ashore, when the water had already drained, the commander was the last.
Gukor "Saint Paul". Commander Captain-Lieutenant M. Levashov. Upon arrival at Bolsheretsk, he stood at the mouth of the Bolshaya River in anticipation of full water and on the night of October 25, having both ropes broken, “with a common consultation with the servants” threw himself ashore at Amshigachev Yar to the north, seven miles from the mouth of the Bolshaya River.
Boat "Saint Gabriel". Commander - navigator Dudin 1st. Upon arrival at Bolsheretsk, he managed to enter the mouth of the Bolshaya River, but for further passage he expected full water and on the night of October 25 he was thrown ashore. Galliot "Saint Paul". Commander - navigator Dudin 2nd. Separating from three ships, he passed or was carried into the Eastern Ocean by the first Kuril Strait and on November 21 reached Avacha Bay, but, met here by ice, was again carried to the sea, wandered for a whole month, lost his bowsprit, yardarm, all sails and ropes, and, already having neither water nor firewood, he set off straight for the shore and jumped out onto the seventh Kuril Island. In a quarter of an hour the ship was completely wrecked. 30 people were killed, and 13 were saved, including the commander. Affectionately received by the inhabitants, the unfortunate sufferers spent the winter on the island, eating whale oil, roots and shells, and the next year they moved to Bolsheretsk.
LIGHTHOUSE
Now the only Bolsheretsky lighthouse in the area, which is a high white tower with 5 black stripes, stands on the site of the former village of Zuikovo on the left bank of the river. Large one near its mouth (see Fig. 1). Igor Maltsev writes about life at this lighthouse (http://ruspioner.ru/university/m/single/2732).
A little personal
I have a lot of memories connected with the Bolshoi River and its mouth. For example, from July to the end of October 1972, I worked on the Kapitan Zagorsky sea tug of the Kamchatrybflot. By order of Kamchatrybprom, we were then engaged in towing ponies with dismantled fish factory equipment from the disbanded Kikhchinsky fish processing plant to the village. October. Once a week, "Zagorsky" (draft 2.5 m) entered the mouth of the river. A large one with two heavily loaded 100-ton ponies dangling from the back on the "brags". To the credit of the captain, there were no incidents at the entrance to the bars during the three months of these "cruises". Getting out of the river into the sea with empty boats has always been a gamble too.
I remember the seals filling the bars with black dots of heads. Apparently, it was there that they were guaranteed a hearty lunch. In the 1980s, I was instructed to drive the Ufa tanker from Oktyabrsky to Petropavlovsk, which had stood for many years in the river near the village on “dead” anchors as a transshipment tank — a fuel oil bunker for the village’s boiler house. Once "Ufa" was "buried" here by its captain Radmir Alexandrovich Korenev, a famous Kamchatka writer.
With difficulty tearing the tanker off the coast, we sent it downstream to the mouth, where we stood for three weeks at the coast to wait for the next double (sygysia) tide (simple tides in this area are small - up to a meter). Conclusion "Ufa" from the river. The big and further towing of the vessel to Petropavlovsk, and then to Thailand, where it was handed over for scrap (“for nails,” as they say among sailors), is worth a separate adventure story.
Another memory of the mouth of this river is associated with the work on compiling the "Information on Stability" for the modernized ships of the type MPS-80 and MPS-225, which belonged to the collective farm named after. October revolution. It was in the winter of 1977. A caravan of small fishing seiners was anchored at the mouth of the Bolshaya in the fall, before freezing. Then they froze into the ice. We, two designers of the Kamchatka branch of the TsPKTB VRPO "Dalryba" (there was such a powerful design bureau in Petropavlovsk at that time), had to incline the ships, that is, record their recovery curves on an even keel after an artificially created list using a special device - an inclinograph , and then, on the basis of the obtained sinusoids, calculate the behavior of the vessel for various options for its loading. It was possible to make an inclining experiment only on calm water, i.e. during the "stopper", when the tide "squeezes out" and stops the flow of the river. Hole-holes were cut in the ice, ice was scooped out of them with nets ... In general, the work that the crews of the ships and A. Avdashkin and I successfully coped with.
The agonizing expectation of the “stoppers” was brightened up by cheerful fishing for smelt abounding there (the spinners soldered themselves from brass hunting cases) and trips with shovels and sleds to the places of “burials” of canned fish from the October fish processing plant. In those days, any "substandard" jar of canned food (with a dent, scratch, and sometimes even with a crooked label or fuzzy lithography) was translated into "illiquid". These completely edible canned food were taken out to the spit closer to the mouth of the Bolshaya and dug into the sand with bulldozers. Here they were (flounder in oil or in tomato sauce, natural canned salmon, etc.) and fried smelt. Once a week a tractor with drags brought bread. This epic was especially remembered by a close acquaintance with the noble fisherman of Kamchatka, holder of many orders, the famous captain of the MRS-433 and just a good person Grigory Samsonovich Krikoryan.
Catfish
In the 1980s and 90s, many times in winter, my friend and I traveled from Petropavlovsk to the river. Big for smelt. More than 200 kilometers to the village of Oktyabrsky brightened up the stories of the then most popular G. Khazanov recorded on a tape recorder in an old "Moskvich" car. In the area of Oktyabrsky, there is a very large smelt - catfish. On successful trips, we brought home several hundred of this "cucumber" fish. The Bolshaya River is still a tasty place for lovers of winter fishing.
Many amazing things can be seen in these magnificent and rich in variety natural phenomena edges of Russia. This wonderful corner of the earth is called Kamchatka. A wide variety of landscapes, vegetation and the most amazing animals are concentrated here.
And about where the Kamchatka River is located, what are its features and what natural wonders she is rich, you can find out in this article.
Location of the Kamchatka Peninsula, description
Washed peninsula Sea of Okhotsk from the west, the Bering Sea and the Pacific Ocean from the east.
Kamchatka is located on the border of the Eurasian continent and one of the largest oceans on the planet. All this affects the formation of a diverse relief of the territory, climate and the distribution of the world of animals and vegetation. In this unique place, like in no other corner of Russia, the most amazing and striking natural phenomena are concentrated.
There are ancient volcanoes (active and extinct), mineral hot and cold springs, which are rare throughout the world water basins glacial, tectonic and volcanic origin. Among all such magnificence, the beautiful Kamchatka (river) also flows here.
Description of the river: geographical location
Kamchatka is the largest river located on the peninsula of the same name. And it flows into the Bering Sea of the Pacific Ocean through the Kamchatka Bay. The total length of the river is 758 kilometers, and its basin extends over a vast territory of 55.9 thousand km².
Kamchatka is a river, diverse in the relief of its channel. The course of the upper reaches has a faster mountainous character, in its channel there are a large number of riffles and rapids. In the central one, it flows into the Central Kamchatka lowland and changes the nature of its flow to a calmer one. Here the channel is quite winding and in some places it diverges into branches.
In the lower course, the river bends around Klyuchevskaya Sopka (massif) and turns east, where in the lower reaches it intersects with the Kumroch ridge.
At the very mouth of the river, a delta is formed, which consists of numerous channels. At the confluence of Kamchatka into the sea, it is connected by the Lake Channel with the largest lake on the island, Nerpichy Lake.
Throughout the course of the river there are many islands. For the most part, they are low, sandy, almost bare or slightly overgrown with tall grass or small willows.
The Kamchatka River is amazing and interesting. A description of all its unique natural attractions in one article is simply impossible.
Tributaries, source, settlements
The river has several tributaries, both right and left. Among them are the largest: Kensol, Zhulanka, Andrianovka and Kozyrevka - left; Urts, Kitilgina - right.
There is a settlement with the port of Ust-Kamchatsk. Also on the banks of the river are the small villages of Klyuchi and Milkovo.
Where is the source of the river? Kamchatka has two sources in total: the left one (Ozernaya Kamchatka), starting at the Sredinny Ridge; right (Right Kamchatka), located in the eastern ridge. They meet in the area of the Ganal tundra and together form the beginning of a magnificent river.
Flora of Kamchatka
The vegetation of the entire peninsula was influenced by a number of factors, such as geographical position territories, mountainous terrain (mainly), the impact of a humid climate due to the proximity of the ocean, features of the history of landscape formation, a strong impact of volcanism, etc.
Widespread in the central part coniferous forests(larch and spruce). Also birches and aspens grow here interspersed with them.
In Kamchatka, floodplain forests are the richest and most diverse in terms of vegetation. In them you can find hairy alder, willow, chosenia, etc.
Kamchatka is a river, the coastal part of which is replete with a wide variety of vegetation. The banks of the upper and middle reaches of the river are an excellent forest, represented by poplar, fir, larch, interspersed with willow, alder, hawthorn, and other vegetation. The lower coastal part of the river is already more swampy and covered with grass, small willow and horsetail.
Fauna river
Kamchatka is a river rich in rare and valuable fish species. This is a spawning ground for many of the most magnificent breeds, including chum salmon, pink salmon and chinook (salmon). It takes place at the end of summer. In Lake Nerpichye and at the mouth of the Kamchatka River, seals and beluga whales come from the ocean.
Both amateur and industrial fishing is carried out in these places.
aquatic flora
The main vegetation of the bottom of the river and the sea are commercial algae of several species. Due to the sufficient amount of stocks, they are not specialized in fishing.
Birds and animals
Exceptionally diverse animal world not only the territory of the river under consideration, but also the entire Kamchatka Territory.
Among the birds, of which there are a huge number (about two hundred and twenty species), there are gulls, cormorants, puffins, Pacific guillemots, guillemots, etc. You can also meet crows, magpies, wagtails, nutcrackers, partridges, etc.
The fauna of the coastal part consists of: ermine, Kamchatka sable, otter, muskrat, white hare, elk, northern deer, lynx, fox, snow sheep, wolverine, weasel and many others. etc. Of the largest forest animals in the forest zone, the famous Kamchatka brown bear can be noted.
Finally
In addition to all its natural magnificent landscapes, the territory of the Kamchatka River is also distinguished by the fact that the climate of its valley is the best on the entire peninsula and is the most suitable for agriculture, especially in the areas between the villages of Ushakovskoye and Kirganovskoye.
In terms of the speed of the current, this Kamchatka is popular among numerous tourists and is widely used by them for hiking both water and foot coastal. There is something to see and remember forever.
Beautiful and magnificent Kamchatka. And to know more about her, you must see her.
Itelmens (one of the indigenous peoples of Kamchatka) used to call the river "Uikoal", which means "Big River".
Map digitized by site member
Map Description
Kamchatka region. Tourist map, GUGK 1986. The map was compiled and prepared for printing by factory No. 3. Editor V.D. Topchilov. Paper format 72x89 cm. Circulation 107900 copies. Scale at 1 cm. 2.5 km.
Reverse side of the plan
Conventions
Description from the map
The Kamchatka region is located in the northeast of the Asian part of Russia. The region includes the Kamchatka Peninsula with the adjoining part of the mainland, the Commander Islands and the Karaginsky Island. From the west it is washed by the Sea of Okhotsk, from the east by the Pacific Ocean and the Bering Sea.
The Kamchatka region was formed on October 20, 1932 as part of the Khabarovsk Territory, since 1956 it has been separated into an independent region of the RSFSR. Territory 472.3 thousand sq. km. The region includes the Koryak Autonomous Okrug.
Kamchatka is one of the links in the Pacific volcanic belt, which belongs to the zones of active action of tectonic underground forces. These forces create mountains, cause earthquakes, tsunamis and volcanoes.
Kamchatka is distinguished by a variety of landforms. The western part of Kamchatka is occupied by the West Kamchatka lowland, turning in the east and north into a sloping plain. The central part of the peninsula is crossed by two parallel ridges - Sredinny and Vostochny, between them - the Central Kamchatka Lowland, through which the Kamchatka River flows. Within this lowland, the volcanoes of the Klyuchevskaya group rise. Among them is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world, Klyuchevskaya Sopka (4750 m). To the north of this group is the active volcano Shiveluch (3283 m). From the east, the lowland is limited by the steep ledges of the Eastern Range, which is a whole system of ridges: Ganalsky (up to 2277 m.), Valaginsky (up to 1794 m.), Tumrok (up to 2485 m.) and Kumroch (up to 2346 m.). Between Cape Lopatka and the Kamchatka Bay there is an Eastern volcanic plateau (600-1000 m high) with cones of extinct and active volcanoes towering on it: Kronotskaya (3528 m.), Koryakskaya (3456 m.), Avachinskaya (2741 m.), Mutnovskaya (2323 m.) Hills and others. This is the most interesting area, where 27 out of 28 active volcanoes of Kamchatka, all geysers and the main part of hot springs are concentrated. The eastern coast of the peninsula is strongly indented, forming large bays (Kronotsky, Kamchatsky, Ozernoy, Karaginsky, Korfa) and bays (Avachinskaya, Karaga, Ossora and others). Rocky peninsulas protrude far into the sea (Shipunsky, Kronotsky, Kamchatsky, Ozernoy).
The Kamchatka region is characterized by a dense hydrographic network. The largest river Kamchatka is the main waterway linking the logging area and Agriculture region with the seaport of Ust-Kamchatsky. The lower reaches of the river are navigable. Most of the rivers start in the mountains, where they are stormy and swift. There are many lakes in the region, diverse in origin. The most picturesque are volcanic lakes, which were formed in craters and volcanic depressions - calderas. The largest lake is Kronotskoye (an area of about 200 sq. km), the deepest is Kurilskoye (a depth of more than 300 m).
There are about 150 groups of warm and hot springs in Kamchatka, among them is the only group of springs in the Russian Federation with a geyser mode of action, located in the Kronotsky Reserve. The balneological properties of the Kamchatka thermal mineral springs have been known for a long time; resorts in Paratunka and Nachiki were built on their basis.
The climatic features of Kamchatka are due to the proximity of huge water spaces, which have a softening effect on seasonal temperature fluctuations. The climate of the region is maritime monsoon, more severe in the west than in the east. In the southern part - marine, in the center and in the north - temperate continental. average temperature February in the west -15 ° С, in the east -11 ° С, in the central part -16 ° С. a large number foggy and rainy days.
The climate of Kamchatka is characterized by intense cyclonic activity throughout the year. Long strong winds often reach hurricane strength. Cyclones bring abundant precipitation. The largest number of them falls on the area of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, Paratunka and reaches 1200 mm. in year.
The highest parts of the mountains are covered with glaciers. total area glaciation 866 sq. km.
The short summer, strong long winds, loose volcanic soils and isolated from the mainland, almost insular position of the peninsula left a peculiar imprint on the nature of the Kamchatka vegetation. Its species composition is relatively poor, but still has over 1000 flowering and fern plants.
Forests occupy 1/3 of the area, the remaining 2/3 are swamps, meadows of lowlands and highlands, and bald mountains. Here grow white birch, Dahurian larch, Ayan spruce, alder, Chosenia (Korean willow), shrubs - cedar and alder elfin. Of particular note is the graceful fir on the coast of the Kronotsky Bay, near the mouth of the Semlyachik River. Dwarf species of birch, willow, and alder grow in the highlands, and tall-grass vegetation grows in the depressions - the annual shelomaynik, reaching a height of 2.5 m, and the bear's angelica, 3 m high and above. Northern flat part Kamchatka Parapolsky Dol is treeless and has the character of a moss tundra. A narrow strip of tundra also extends into the low parts of the west coast.
The fauna is represented by brown bear, reindeer, bighorn sheep, wolverine, fox, wolf, lynx, hare, arctic fox, Kamchatka marmot, ermine. Elk has recently been introduced into the Kamchatka valley. Various types of seals are found in coastal waters. On the Commander Islands, under the protection and supervision of scientists, there are rookeries of a fur seal and one of the most valuable fur-bearing animals - a sea otter (sea otter). Numerous flocks arrive for summer nesting sea birds. Various types of salmon (chinook salmon, pink salmon, chum salmon, coho salmon) come to the rivers in summer to spawn. Charr is found everywhere in the rivers.
The area has been inhabited for a long time. This is evidenced by archaeological finds. The famous Ushkovskaya site of the Neolithic and Paleolithic eras gave scientists answers about the time when people settled the Kamchatka Peninsula.
In the XVII-XIX centuries. Kamchatka was the main base in the Far East and the starting point for many famous expeditions that gave the world a number of geographical discoveries. In 1697-1699. Siberian Cossack V. Atlasov made a trip to Kamchatka, which resulted in drawing up a drawing (map) of Kamchatka and its detailed description. In 1737-1741. Kamchatka was studied by the Russian scientist S.P. Krasheninnikov, who presented the results of his observations in the work "Description of the Land of Kamchatka". The first and second Kamchatka expeditions in 1725-1730 are connected with the exploration of Kamchatka. and 1733-1743. under the leadership of the navigator officer of the Russian fleet, captain-commander V.I. Bering and his assistant Russian navigator Captain-Commander A.I. Chirikov.
The population of the region consists of Russians, Ukrainians, indigenous peoples - Koryaks, Itelmens, Evens, Aleuts, Chukchi.
The Kamchatka region is part of the Far Eastern economic region. Main industries: production of building materials, timber, woodworking and fish.
The Kamchatka region is one of the important fishing areas. Main commercial fish: salmon, herring, flounder, cod, sea bass, halibut, pollock. Off the western shores of the Kamchatka region - crab fishing.
Agriculture is developing in two directions: reindeer breeding (northern part of the region) and meat and dairy farming and vegetable growing (southern and central parts of the region). Of great importance fur trade(sable, fox, otter, ermine, arctic fox) and cage farming (muskrat, American mink).
The first in the Russian Federation Pauzhetskaya geothermal power plant, as well as greenhouse and greenhouse plants, were built on hot springs.
KORYAKSKY AUTONOMOUS DISTRICT was formed on December 10, 1930. The territory is 301.5 thousand sq. km. It occupies the northern half of the Kamchatka peninsula, the adjacent part of the mainland and the island of Karaginsky. It is washed by the waters of the Sea of Okhotsk and the Bering Sea. The center of the district is the urban-type settlement of Palana.
Mountainous relief prevails on the territory of the district, parts of the Sredinny ridge, Koryaksky (up to 2562 m high) and Kolyma highlands are located here. The climate is subarctic. The average temperature in January is -24° -26° С, in July 10-14° С.
The leading place is occupied by the fishing industry, from the branches of agriculture - reindeer breeding, hunting for fur and sea animals.
PETROPAVLOVSK-KAMCHATSKY. Administrative, industrial and cultural center of the Kamchatka region, seaport. Founded in 1740 by the Second Kamchatka Expedition led by V.I. Bering and A.I. Chirikov.
The city is located in a picturesque place. Steep hills, forests of stone birch, beaches and bays of the ocean coast, the beautiful Avacha Bay and volcanoes framing it - all this creates a unique and rare combination of water and mountain landscapes.
Over the years, Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky has become one of the largest industrial and transport centers of the Far East with a developed ship repair and fish processing industry, a base for fishing trawl and refrigerated fleets. Here are the Institute of Volcanology of the Far Eastern Scientific Center of the Academy of Sciences (the only one in the country), the Kamchatka Branch of the Pacific Research Institute of Fisheries and Oceanography, higher and secondary special educational establishments. There is a regional museum of local lore, a museum of military glory, a regional drama theater. The city has many monuments related to the heroic past of Kamchatka: V.I. Bering, Military Glory in honor of the heroes of the defense of the Peter and Paul Port from the Anglo-French landings in 1854, a monument to the heroes of the Great Patriotic War 1941-1945 and others.
PALANA The administrative center of the Koryak Autonomous Okrug. Located on the western coast of the Kamchatka Peninsula. Monument to V.I. Lenin. Monument at the grave of Obukhov, the first chairman of the district executive committee. Monument to fellow countrymen who died during the Great Patriotic War of 1941-1945. Branch of the Kamchatka Regional Museum of Local Lore.
BERING, ISLAND Campsite of the expedition of V.I. Bering in 1741-1742. Monument to V.I. Bering. Grave of V.I. Bering.
YELIZOVO(until 1924 - Zavoyko). Monument to V.I. Lenin. Monument to G.M. Elizov, commander of the partisan detachment. Monument to fellow countrymen who died during the Great Patriotic War of 1941-1945. Museums: natural science "Kamchatles" and Military and Labor Glory (folk).
KRONOTSKY RESERVE It is located in the central regions of Eastern Kamchatka on the slopes of mountain ranges descending to the coast of the Kamchatka and Kronotsky bays of the Pacific Ocean.
The area is 964 thousand hectares. Created in 1934. The main task of the Kronotsky Reserve is to preserve in its natural state the most typical parts of nature with their vegetation and animals, as well as rare natural objects.
The flora of the Kamchatka Reserve includes more than 700 species of plants, including 60 species of trees and shrubs.
The most widely represented forests are of stone birch, alder, willow, poplar, Chosenia (Korean willow), and Ayan spruce. On the coast of the Kronotsky Bay, near the mouth of the Semlyachik River, a small grove (20 hectares) of relic graceful fir has been preserved. Mountain slopes and volcanic valleys are occupied by thickets of cedar and alder elfin. Interestingly lush tall grass up to 2-3 m., Consisting of thickets of silkworm, ragwort, reed grass, underripe and other grasses.
There are 41 species of mammals in the fauna of the Kronotsky Reserve: reindeer, bighorn sheep, Brown bear and others. Of the valuable species - Kamchatka sable. Ermine, otter, squirrel are often found. In coastal waters - rookeries of sea lions, ringed seal, spotted seals, sea otters. On the coastal cliffs of the Kronotsky Peninsula, bird colonies.
In the gorge, at the bottom of which the Geysernaya River flows, there is the main attraction of the Kronotsky Reserve - the Valley of Geysers. There are many rivers and streams, thermal lakes, geysers, hot springs.
COPPER, ISLAND Monument at the grave of A.I. Chirikov. Monument at the grave of N.N. Lukin-Fedotov, militia of the Russo-Japanese war of 1904-1905
MILKOVO Monument to V.I. Lenin. Monument to fellow countrymen who died during the Great Patriotic War of 1941-1945. Branch of the Kamchatka Regional Museum of Local Lore.
NACHIKI The balneological resort in the Elizovsky district is located near the picturesque Nachikinskoye Lake, 2 km from the village of Nachiki. The main natural healing factor is thermal (about 83 ° C) nitrogen chloride-sulfate sodium water. The resort was founded in 1950. There is a bathroom department, a therapeutic pool with mineral water.
NIKOLSKOE Monument to V.I. Lenin. Monuments to Vitus Bering. Branch of the Kamchatka Regional Museum of Local Lore.
PARATUNKA Balneo-mud resort in Elizovsky district. Located in the upper reaches of the Paratunka River, near the village of the same name. The main healing factors are thermal (up to 61 ° C) siliceous alkaline springs and silt mud of the lake. Duck, located on the territory of the resort. There is a bathroom building with balneo and mud treatment departments, an outdoor swimming pool.
There are 10 recreation centers and 16 pioneer camps in Paratunka.
Monument at the grave of G.M. Elizov, commander of a partisan detachment, who died in 1922.
Digitization by Roman Maslov.
More than six thousand large and small rivers flow through the territory of the [Kamchatka] region, but only a few of them have a length of more than 200 km, and only 7 - over 300.
The largest rivers
The insignificant length of the Kamchatka rivers is explained by the close location of the main river watersheds from the sea coast.
There are two main ridges on the peninsula - Sredinny and Vostochny, which stretch in the meridional direction. From the outer (western) slope of the Sredinny Range, the rivers flow into the Sea of Okhotsk, from the outer slope of the East - into the Pacific Ocean. And those that arise on the inner slopes of these ridges flow into the central valley, along the bottom of which flows the most big river peninsula - Kamchatka.
The rivers of our region, although shorter, full-flowing rivers The European part of the USSR: from each square kilometer of the catchment area, they receive 15-25 liters of water per second - almost twice as much as in Europe.
River types. According to the nature of the flow of the river, the regions are divided into several groups. The most common are mountainous ones, the sources of which lie near the main watersheds. They are the largest on the peninsula and are formed from melting snow. However, they get most of their food from groundwater. Some of these rivers flow throughout the mountains, the other part - only in the upper reaches.
In the mountainous regions, the rivers flow in narrow valleys with steep slopes. As a rule, they have a fast rapid current, and when they enter the plains, they are calm: they break into numerous channels and branches, strongly meander (wind through), forming many oxbow lakes. Near the sea, the flow of rivers is slowed down by tidal waters. Their mouths often turn into long estuaries, which is especially characteristic of the western coast. When they flow into the sea, they usually form "cats" and "spits", bars are observed in the mouths (bars are shallows created by a tidal sea wave, making it difficult for ships to enter the mouths).
The upper reaches of Kamchatka, Avacha, Bystraya, Tigil, Penzhina and others are very characteristic of mountain rivers. The lowland rivers include Kamchatka, Penzhina and others in their middle and lower reaches.
The third group is dry rivers. They cut through the slopes and carry their waters to the receiving basins only in summer, during the melting of snow. During the rest of the year, water seeps into loose volcanic rocks and rivers disappear from the surface of the earth. Elizovskaya and Khalaktyrskaya can serve as an example.
River feeding- mixed. Most constitute groundwater and water obtained from the melting of snow in the mountains and valleys. The role of groundwater nutrition increases in dry years, and snow, on the contrary, in high-water years. Rain feeding is essential for the rivers of the west coast, where its share in some years can be 20-30 percent. There are rain floods here in autumn, sometimes exceeding spring floods in height.
Freezing and opening. Due to the abundant ground supply, the freeze-up is unstable on many rivers, there are large non-freezing areas and polynyas. In winter, ice often appears only along the banks, places with a fast current and the middle of the river are usually free of ice. Freeze-up begins in November or even in December, and only in the north of the region a little earlier. In the north and northwest where climatic conditions more severe, medium and small rivers freeze to the bottom on riffles, forming ice.
The opening of the rivers occurs in April - early May, in the north of the peninsula - a little later (in the middle and end of May). The opening is accompanied by spring ice drift, which is especially typical for the rivers of the northwestern region.
Water content. Its main indicator for rivers is the flow of water. It increases downstream as the basin grows. Thus, the average annual water flow in the upper reaches of the Kamchatka River is 91 cubic meters per second, in the lower reaches ten times more. Water content also depends on precipitation and the nature of the underlying surface. For example, the Penzhina River has a catchment area much larger than the Kamchatka River, but its average annual discharge is smaller.
Kamchatka river flows through the lowlands located between the Sredinny and Vostochny ridges. Having cut through the Kumroch ridge - a section called "Cheks" - with a narrow valley, it flows into the Kamchatka Bay of the Pacific Ocean.
In the upper reaches, the river has a mountainous character. Fast, greenish-muddy waters are rapidly rushing from the Ganalsky and Sredinny ridges. Swift streams rush between the stone banks, tear off the stones and carry them far downstream. Stones piled up in the channel itself form rifts and rapids.
Below the village of Pushchino, the current becomes smooth. The river becomes flat and begins to meander strongly. Its width near the village of Milkovo is 100–150 meters.
The further down, the wider and fuller it is. The wide floodplain, along which the river has laid its winding course with many branches, oxbow lakes, is covered with a green carpet of meadows interspersed with fields and forests. In many places the forest comes close to the river and forms a dense wall of green hedges. In the lower reaches, the Kamchatka River expands to 500–600 meters, and its depths range from 1 to 6 meters. Numerous rifts make the fairway of the river unstable. After big floods, it changes its position. This greatly complicates navigation.
The river freezes in November, and opens in late April - early May. Among the numerous tributaries, the largest are the Elovka, Tolbachik, Shchapina.
The settlements of Milkovo, Dolinovka, Shchapino, Kozyrevsk, Klyuchi, Ust-Kamchatsk and others are located along the banks of the river.
Kamchatka is the most important transport route of the peninsula. Passenger trams, boats, barges run along it. Shipping is carried out almost to Milkovo. AT in large numbers the forest floats. Salmon fish enter the river and its tributaries for spawning.
The mighty northern beauty river is an interesting tourist route for summer hikes.
Lakes of Kamchatka
There are more than 100 thousand Kamchatka lakes, but their water surface area is only 2 percent of the entire area of the region. Only four lakes have an area of more than 50 square kilometers, and two - more than 100.
The lakes are varied and attractive. Often they represent a unique and amazing panorama.
Not far from the village of Semlyachiki there are remains of the old. Its top was demolished by a colossal volcanic explosion, and at an altitude of more than 500 meters a huge caldera (bowl) with an area of about 100 square kilometers was formed. On this area there are a lot of springs, rivers and small lakes. Many of them are filled with boiling water and are constantly bubbling, testifying to the violent activity of the volcano. In particular, one of them is remarkable - Fumarole. Its area is about 40 hectares. The water in it is always hot. Ducks and swans winter here.
There are many lakes like it. One of the most beautiful is Khangar. A huge stone bowl of the volcano of the same name rises to a height of 2000 meters. Climbing to its top is very difficult. It is even more difficult to go down to the lake along the steep walls of the crater. Doctor of Geological and Mineralogical Sciences A.E. Svyatlovsky, who overcame all these difficulties, traveled around the lake in a rubber inflatable boat and decided to measure the depth. However, the hundred-meter rope did not reach the bottom.
Tectonic processes - the ups and downs of individual sections of the earth's surface - led to the formation of a number of lakes. The tectonic origin of the lake and the Middle near the village of Paratunka and one of the deepest and most beautiful lakes of Kamchatka - Kuril.
The largest lakes
Thanks to invaluable work, the ancient, fanned with poetry, legend of the Alaid volcano has come down to us:
"... The aforementioned mountain (Alaid) used to stand at the declared lake (Kuril); and since it took away the light from all other mountains with its height, they were incessantly indignant at Alaid and quarreled with her, so that Alaid was forced to retire from anxiety and to become secluded at sea; however, in memory of her stay on the lake, she left her heart, which in Kuril is Uchichi, also Nukhguni, that is, Navel, and in Russian the Heart-stone is called, which stands in the middle of Kuril Lake and has a conical shape. Her path was the place where the Ozernaya River flows, which was caused by the occasion of this journey: for as the mountain rose from its place, the water from the lake rushed after it and paved its way to the sea.
Kurile Lake is surrounded by volcanoes. Its banks are steep and steep. Numerous mountain streams and hot springs flow here, and only the Ozernaya River flows out, which freezes for a short time in winter.
Kurile Lake is the deepest on the peninsula (306 meters). Its bottom is below the ocean level.
A similar legend is recorded about the origin of another lake - Kronotsky. It is the largest freshwater lake in the region. By area it exceeds Avacha Bay. The greatest depth is 128 meters. It arose due to the fact that the colossal masses of lava, poured out from the nearest volcano, blocked the valley through which the rapids of the noisy river Kronotskaya runs, and formed a dam. According to legend, the lake was formed because he moved to a new place of residence and on the way carelessly broke the tops of two hills. "Traces" of his feet, filled with water, turned into lakes. In particular, Kharchinskoye and Kurazhechnoye lakes, well-known to the inhabitants of the village of Klyuchi, belong to them.
In the lower reaches of the Kamchatka River lies the largest of the brackish lakes - Nerpichye, the remnant of the bay, which separated from the sea after the peninsula's shore slowly rose. Its depth is 12 meters. It consists of two lakes connected with each other, one of them is called Nerpichye, and the other - Kultuchnoye. The sea surf and the river took part in its origin. The name of the lake indicates that a sea animal is found here - a seal (a type of seal). Kultuchnoe comes from the Turkic word kultuk - lagoon.
Lagoon-type lakes are common on the western coast of the peninsula. They are formed at the mouths of almost all major rivers of the West Kamchatka Lowland. Lagoon lakes have an elongated shape.
The most numerous group of lakes are peat ones. Their concentrations can be found in the West Kamchatka Lowland, Parapolsky Dole and the coastal plains of the eastern coast. Such lakes, as a rule, are small, have a rounded shape and steep banks.
The lakes of Kamchatka are located at different heights above sea level and are heterogeneous in their temperature and water regime. They also have different freezing and opening times.
The greatest rise in the water level is observed in summer, when snow melts in the mountains. The height of the level of coastal lakes depends on the tidal sea currents. The largest amplitude of level fluctuations in the lagoons of the western coast reaches 4–5 meters. The lagoons and lakes of the sea coasts freeze in December - later than in the interior of the peninsula, and open in late May - early June, although some of them are cleared of ice only in July
The rivers of Kamchatka have enormous reserves of energy. Their abundance, high water content and mountainous nature create favorable conditions for the construction of hydroelectric power plants, but our rivers are mostly spawning grounds for such valuable breeds fish like salmon. And spawning grounds must be preserved.
The shallow lakes of Kamchatka, which warm up well, are used for breeding silver carp in them - a tasty and nutritious fish. Amur carp and sterlet are also bred here.
The largest rivers of Kamchatka are reliable transport routes. Goods, materials, equipment, construction timber are transported through Kamchatka, Penzhina and some others.
Published in a collection
"Kamchatka region. Articles and essays on geography"
(Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, - 1966).
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