What to pour into the fangs of a wild boar. Powerful boar fang amulet

Quality, at a reasonable price.
Of all the game that is usually hunted, the prestigious cohort has long included boar also called wild pig. In ancient times, he had a different name - boar. This is a solid, far from stupid and savvy beast. He never retreats and is ready to defend his life to the end, which often threatens the hunter with serious injuries. The brilliant writer Cherkasov A.A., who described hunting with amazing talent, in the book “Notes of a Hunter Eastern Siberia» describes the behavior of a wild boar during a hunt: "... look at billhook when the dogs catch up with him, they stop him, the hunters fly up and surround him from all sides, and he, seeing the trouble, will begin to defend himself. All the hair on it will stand on end, its eyes burn with courage and throw terrible sparks, white foam pours out of its mouth in clubs, and the billhook either stands motionless, waiting for an attack, puffs and sharpens its huge white fangs with fury, then rushes at enemies with a bold, impetuous , with an elastic swoop knocks down brave fighters, crosses in two, like a mitten, throws up a snout, flogs with fangs like a knife, makes terrible mortal wounds, releases intestines ... One turn of his snout is enough to kill a careless hunter who decides to come too close to him and somehow blunders ... ".
The danger of boar hunting is also reflected in the well folk wisdom- in sayings, for example, one of them says: "You go for a bear - take a straw, for wild boar you go - drag the coffin."
But, nevertheless, knowing how dangerous this beast can be, you should not fall into a stupor from fear of such a game. If you meet such a serious opponent, you need to be very careful and not lose your temper. And of course, you don’t need to fussily move around, twitch, and you shouldn’t let fear guide your actions.

All appearance wild pig indicates that this animal is adapted for living in dense weaves of forest thickets and reed beds. The head is large, has the shape of a wedge (in proportion, it is almost one third of the entire length), a powerful neck and a large torso, as if squeezed on the sides, enable the beast, when threatened, to leave through the forest wilds and rubble, breaking through any thickets with amazing speed .
Boar legs are hardy, overgrown with coarse hair, short limbs. The tail is not too long, approximately to the heel joint, at its end there is a tassel. When a wild boar runs away from danger, its speed can be about 40 km / h, while it will jump about four meters in length and one and a half meters in height. And the wild boar is capable of maintaining such a pace without stopping for a “smoke break” at distances of 10 or even 15 km. This animal can quickly and without difficulty swim across water barriers, even if the river has a high flow rate, it forces swamps, and is able to overcome steep slopes.

A wild pig is a natural all-terrain vehicle, only impassable snow reduces its ability to maneuver. Only at first inattentive glance, a wild boar can be called a heavy and clumsy animal. In fact, this is a swift and frisky animal. The boar can at any time make a lightning throw to the side or at the enemy. The size of an adult pig is quite significant. The height at the withers can be about 120 cm, and at the same time, the length of the beast is often more than two meters. Such an animal weighs about three centners, or even more. With all this, it is also a well-armed enemy - the boar has well-developed fangs. They are clearly visible when looking at a boar - they do not fit in oral cavity, and ominously white outside. On the upper jaw, the fangs are blunt and not too long, and at the exit from the gums they are bent up. On the lower jaw, they are more serious in a wild boar - these are sharp trihedral fangs, and they grow all their lives, and when the boar is already seven years old, their size is already ten centimeters. I must say that the lower fangs of a wild boar are always sharply sharpened, they never become dull, the fact is that the upper fangs are close to them and act as a grindstone. The lower fangs are a lifesaver for a wild boar - this is a digging stick, an “axe”, and a “knife”, and much more. It was the impressive lower fangs of the wild boar that gave another name to adult males - they are often called billhooks.

Female feral pigs also have fangs, although they certainly cannot boast of the same size, they do not even protrude. Actually, this makes female boars less dangerous than adult billhooks.
Boars have a well-developed coat. AT winter time each bristle at the end splits, and itself becomes very strong and lengthens. These bristles on the animal's back tangle and create an original mane. In addition, a dense undercoat grows in cold times. Boar hair, its part, consisting of bristles, most often dark brown in color, brightened at the ends, can be with a grayish tint, or even completely white. The undercoat is also brown in color with an admixture of chestnut color. Boar skins do not differ in coloration, they can be brown or brown, almost always in darker shades, the limbs are always darker than the body, they can be completely black. On the summer time the bristles are thinned and shortened. The color also changes, it becomes lighter and moves to the “area gray color”, in the color of the skin, gray, and even ashen colors begin to predominate.
By nature, wild boars are prudent and cautious animals, so they usually try to leave when a person approaches. However, when a boar is hurt, or very angry with a long persecution, he can turn all his strength against his pursuer, spitting on a sense of self-preservation. Boars have wonderful expressed feeling hearing and smell. But vision is much weaker. But this does not mean that the vision of a wild boar can not be taken into account when hunting for it. Already from a distance of a hundred or one and a half meters, he can detect even small movements of the hunter and immediately leaves in the other direction.

Dmitry 76 04-07-2012 19:47

Good afternoon,
actually the question, please tell me where you can buy a budget medallion for boar fangs, preferably in Moscow
otherwise the situation, I got a wild boar, boiled the fangs myself, processed them myself, poked in to buy a medallion, and in all taxidermy, they say, they say bring the fangs, we will fix them for you on average for 2500 rubles, well, or we will sell the medallion at the same price. And they don’t sell medallions separately anywhere. In general, hucksters, I have already done all the work myself, and they want to make money.

Dmitry 76 12-07-2012 03:58
thank you, the store pleased

Burdon 06-08-2012 11:38

thanks for the tip, the store is really interesting!
and how to fix the fangs to the medallion - who would have suggested?

Dmitry 76 14-08-2012 01:07

quote: and how to fix the fangs to the medallion - who would have suggested?

Ruslan33 15-08-2012 18:19

There are bronze or bronze-looking plugs with special fastenings for fangs in the form of strips, as in baguette frames, you can search here: http://www.taxidermy.su/katalog/komplektuyshie/nakladkadlyklykov/. filled fangs on the inside (as if one wall that will adjoin the medallion) two on each canine. preliminarily symmetrically marking, with simple pressure if the wood is soft or into drilled holes equal in diameter to the nail. For reliability and to avoid falling out, the nails can be bent in different directions.

Dmitry 76 16-08-2012 02:34

quote: the pulp is cleaned.

Naur 16-08-2012 10:18

quote: By the way, how do you clean it?

Ruslan33 28-11-2012 18:20

With a size of up to 20 cm (lower fangs) will fit.

Mikhail_RnD 01-12-2012 22:11

Ruslan33 02-12-2012 15:31

quote: how to remove it now? Just sandpaper-zero? Is this allowed?

ABN 02-12-2012 22:11

quote: how to remove it now?

Dmitry 76 02-12-2012 22:12

and my fangs began to crack, maybe fill their insides with something?

Mikhail_RnD 02-12-2012 22:20

quote: my fangs began to crack, maybe fill their insides with something?

Dmitry 76 11-12-2012 02:35

quote: Well, actually, it should have been done before.

hunter84 11-12-2012 08:57

quote: Originally posted by Mikhail_RnD:

And also, tell me such a moment, please - when you filled the fangs with epoxy - the upper ones got very dirty with it, how can I remove it now? Just sandpaper-zero? Is this allowed?

Well, they already told you about the frozen one, but for the future, if you immediately noticed that they were dirty, then at the moment when it had already seized (gelled) it can be easily cleaned off with a wooden stick

Edward18 11-12-2012 22:56

quote: what to pour?

quote: for the future

When pouring epoxy, take your time. At the very end, add it drop by drop, with a long time interval between drops. And yet, try to place the fangs when pouring so that the upper cut (canine cavity) is parallel to the table.

Mikhail_RnD 08-01-2013 23:24

Does it make sense to cover the outside with something? And then, for example, the enamel began to fall off from the edges of the freshly boiled upper fangs.

hunter84 09-01-2013 08:00

from what is widely available, PVA can be advised

Mikhail_RnD 09-01-2013 16:14

It also has a color - the fangs will be covered with white, and this is not good.

Ruslan33 09-01-2013 17:59

PVA is transparent after drying.

Mikhail_RnD 05-02-2013 15:40

quote: But on this http://www.wht.ru/shop/catalog...w_cut/19696.php
the fangs of the boar will land, right?

Mikhail_RnD 05-03-2013 16:23

All the same, here is such a medallion:
http://www.wht.ru/shop/catalog...w_cut/19696.php
Now just figure out how to attach fangs to it. There are no adequate options other than drilling them?

Ruslan33 05-03-2013 17:15

As an option, drill a medallion and pull it onto wires or a plug.

Mikhail_RnD 06-03-2013 09:08

quote: or tighten with a plug.

Ruslan33 06-03-2013 10:22

One of my acquaintances glues fangs to the medallion and a plug to the fangs with hot glue and does not bother - a non-removable option.

Edward18 06-03-2013 19:28

I mount the "removable" version as follows: I glue a piece of copper wire D = 1.5 mm from the end into each canine. Then I mount it on the medallion, bending the ends of the wire from the back. This allows evaluators to lift the canine from the medallion and measure. The plug is removable: either on a bolt or I also solder a copper wire. Additionally, I supply large fangs with small pieces of double-sided thick tape for additional attachment to the medallion, which eliminates chatter. Unfortunately there is no photo, but I think the meaning is clear.

ALEX55555 05-03-2010 20:11

fellow hunters, the jaw of a hooker is lying from last year, teach how to boil fangs ...

Petr...sh 05-03-2010 20:55

I'm not an expert on wild boars at all, more on fangs.
I know quite well about the tusk bear. I will tell you that when I took the maral trophy from the master, I saw boar tusks at the restoration. To the question, what are they cracking? Yes. And very strongly. It seems that everything is correct, everything is done according to science and everything is expensive and the most, but they are cracking. And they burst, and with a screw, and, in every way.
And therefore. It is better to contact the master. Or stupidly fill with epoxy and paste into place.

I repeat, I am zero in this. And my opinion is stupid. (I do it myself, and cover the cracks with auto-sealant)

SHULGA 07-03-2010 13:09

I do this: I immerse in water (with a large supply of water) and, on low heat, boil for several hours. After that, having cooled in a natural way, I take out the fangs. There are moments when the fangs in the boiled jaw dangle freely, but cannot be removed even with effort, then the jaw is carefully destroyed with improvised means (it is convenient to “pinch off” a piece with pliers). You need to be MAXIMUM careful with the edges of the fangs (those in the jaw) - very delicate and fragile.
Next, I treat the extracted fangs with a degreasing agent (you can use good gasoline for lighters), dry well in a NATURAL WAY. Ready.
Storage: I fill it STAGE-by-STEP with zpoxide (the maximum possible liquid consistency), let it harden well. I process the outer side thinly with the most ordinary superglue (it fills microcracks well and does not shine). I place it on a medallion - I attach it using thin straps-rings made of genuine leather. Preservation - ETERNAL, if every 3-5 years again thinly cover the outside with superglue. Appearance - NATURAL.

ALEX55555 09-03-2010 10:19

Thank you friends ... I boiled it, pulled it out, now according to the recommendations and I think they will go for a medallion ...

Bylbash 20-04-2010 19:39

Cook for no more than 30 minutes, so as not to become brittle.
For the past 4 years they have been hanging in the apartment and do not crack.
in the country, too, everything is excellent, but there is more humidity

Sergey outfitter 24-04-2010 03:48

Yes, rather than boiled in 40 minutes, what could be pulled out?

tracker 10-08-2010 20:27

GREAT TROPHY! Where did you get it?

Bylbash 12-08-2010 18:09

Yes, rather than boiled in 40 minutes, what could be pulled out?

Believe!
I put it in water and after 20 minutes I try to press it inward and loosen it a little
Sometimes they even go like this
after 20 minutes I try again and in 90% of cases everything is OK!

Here he gave the fangs to Nemansky for evaluation, he said that the medal, although weak, is there
boiled for 15-20 minutes

Sergey outfitter 16-08-2010 09:17

All of them are the largest found exactly in the Far Eastern taiga and mainly around Khabarovsk! Here, no one feeds them, so they themselves plow with fangs to get tops of roots! And as you know, clicks are growing from this!

Neman 16-08-2010 11:08

quote: Originally posted by Bylbash:

I stir and pull out with rotational movements.

quote: Originally posted by Sergey outfitter:

Here, no one feeds them, so they themselves plow with fangs to get tops of roots! And as you know, clicks are growing from this!

Neman 16-08-2010 11:10

quote: Originally posted by Sergey outfitter:

this cliques were 31 cm each!

Sergey outfitter 17-08-2010 08:10

Is it possible to see these fangs? Or at least look at the trophy list? Or a measurement protocol? In extreme cases - a photo extracted against the background of the ruler?

Sergey outfitter 17-08-2010 08:12

quote: Originally posted by Sergey outfitter:

Is it possible to see these fangs? Or at least look at the trophy list? Or a measurement protocol? In extreme cases - a photo extracted against the background of the ruler?

Neman 17-08-2010 12:56

Weidmann's Heil 19-08-2010 03:33

Fangs crack from changes in% humidity and temperature changes in the room. Therefore, boiled and immediately pulled out into the air burst especially quickly, it is better for them, as already mentioned here, to cool in a saucepan, then wrap in a rag, paper and a plastic bag on a shelf. I tried to get fangs without boiling, by rotting. After that, they stink a little, and even dirtier than boiled ones, but they crackle less, although they still crackle. Now I have adapted to protect them with cyanoacrylate glue, as fluid as possible, it is less noticeable than epoxy. After walking with fine metal wool. Glue like this http://shintop.ru/novokusnetsk/catalog_shop.php?action=item&id=1271300527 or similar. This is cotton wool http://www.sibglazier.ru/catalog.html/prods/tehnologija-nakladnogo-vitrazha/instrumenty-i-aksessuary/regalead/metallicheskaja-vata-20720

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However

Sergey outfitter 23-09-2010 03:49

quote: Originally posted by Nemansky:

There is no 31 cm on the photo. Ordinary ordinary fangs.

oos 22-02-2011 20:21

Probably off topic, but I didn’t find a better place. They brought a boar’s head with such fangs (right 35 cm, left 38). The upper fangs are underdeveloped. The boar was said to be ordinary, 120 kilograms.

It doesn’t matter what year it is, what era it is, and on what path the development of civilization is going, the magic of animal amulets amulets, the boar’s fang, is still in each of us in the blood. Created by Svarog in the world revealed by Rod, we remember the dull bitter smell of pine forest and snow, we hear the howl of wolves and snowstorms, our ear sensitively picks up the sound of a shot arrow. And may we, the children of megacities and high technology, have never experienced it, our genetic memory stores these memories.

The cult of wild animals in an archaic society, where hunting was one of the main activities of man and the guarantor of his survival, is associated with the use of animal parts in cult practices. It was believed that with boar fang amulet, warrior or hunter could get the spirit of the beast as an ally. But, gaining the spirit, a person receives strength not, but of a whole kind. An animal-spirit has its own characteristics and capabilities, and a person who enters into a spiritual union with him has a chance to develop the corresponding abilities in himself.

Wild boar dedicated to Perun strong amulet Fang of a wild boar

The wild boar is mighty, he is the real master of the forest, the wolves are merciless, the lynxes are cunning and angry, but the hunter was not so afraid of them, as he was afraid to grapple one on one with a wild boar. This beast is cruel and obstinate. Having angered him, the fierce death will not have to wait long. The features of this predator inspired respect and horror in people. The Slavs dedicated the boar to Perun, the god of military power, the lord of thunderstorms. The boar symbolizes military prowess, but at the same time - greed, indefatigable pride, lust and trampling on innocence. so much to it ferocious predator was observed everywhere. So, it is known that the boar was depicted on the helmets of warriors in Ancient Greece to emphasize military power states.

Real boar tusk has long been used as amulet. Despite the fact that this is a male amulet that gives strength and perseverance in achieving the goal, it was also worn by women in the form of pendants, around the neck or on the belt. Two boar tusks connected in the form of a crescent were used to protect the horse. Boar Fang can be used in an amulet amulet, as a setting for the Boar totem, as a key to a powerful egregore.

It is very important to properly skin a dead animal. Depend on this appearance trophy and its evaluation. When removing the skin, the killed animal is laid on its back and, pulling the skin on the belly (near the anus), cut through it sharp knife. The incision is made along the midline of the abdomen from the anus to the angle of the lower jaw (up to the chin), as well as along the underside of the tail to its end. The knife is inserted under the skin with the point up, in this position there is less risk of cutting through the muscular wall of the abdomen. On the front legs, skin incisions are made from the soles along the inner sides to the chest, and on the hind legs - from the soles along the inner sides to the anus, bypassing it in front as close as possible (Fig. 66).

Rice. 66. Cuts for skinning

Then the skin is separated from the hind legs to the very claws. After that, the terminal phalanges of the fingers are cut so that only the claws remain with the skin (Fig. 67). For the convenience of shooting the skins of small animals (cats, lynx, wolf, etc.), they are hung by their hind legs. Skins are skinned from the forelimbs in the same way as from the hind limbs.

Rice. 67. Processing the paws of predators

It is necessary to remove the skin from the head very carefully so as not to cut through the skin near the ears and eyes. Having reached the ears and exposing their bases, they cut the ear cartilages at the very skull and leave them with the skin. In the eye area, the skin is incised as close as possible to the bones of the skull and the eyeball, so as not to damage the eyelids. When the skin is removed, the animal's mouth is opened and cuts are made along the edge of the mouth from the inside near the teeth, leaving the lips with the skin (Fig. 68). After the skin is separated from the carcass, the ear cartilages are removed so that the ear does not lose its shape when it dries. Separating the skin of the ear from the cartilage is a difficult operation. The cartilage fuses especially tightly with the skin on the inside of the ear. Great care is needed here so as not to cut or tear the skin.

Rice. 68. Incisions along the edge of the mouth

To protect against spoilage, the removed skin is cleaned of meat and fat and covered with a thick layer of salt. For the skin of a lynx, a wolf, 2–2.5 kg are spent, for the skin of a bear - 5–6 kg. Having rubbed it well with salt, the skin is left unfolded for several hours, and then it is rolled up with the flesh inside, with the hair out, tied with a rope and stored for 2-3 days. Then the salt is shaken off and the skin is hung out in the shade to dry for 2-3 hours.

For long-term storage after drying, the skin is once again cleaned of the remnants of meat and fat, salted a second time and dried. If diaper rash appears on the skin, they are wiped with acetic acid.

For exhibitions hunting trophies represent only dressed skins. There are many ways of dressing, but we will not recommend them here, since dressing skins at home requires not only knowledge, but also great practical skill.

If the skin of a bear, wolf, lynx or other predatory animal has a high score, the local society of hunters and fishermen can provide practical assistance in organizing its dressing at the appropriate factories. In exceptional cases, the board of Rosokhotrybolovsoyuz can help.

If, after dressing and complete drying, there are bumps on the skin or it is dry, then all the bumps are cleaned with sandpaper, and then the skin is placed for a short time in wet sawdust. Having spread it on the boards with the fur down, pulling slightly in width and length, straighten the paws, head and nail along the edges with carnations; then they are dried and the edges, perforated with carnations, are carefully cut off (carefully at an angle, without touching the fur). The fur is combed with a brush. Bear skins can be stretched out to dry on a frame of poles or thick battens.

The finished skin is hemmed with cloth (preferably green) completely silt only along the edges of the contour. The edges of the cloth are trimmed with cloves or other pattern. Then, in accordance with the contour, a linen or other lining is cut out and hemmed to the cloth on the reverse side of the skin. Between the skin and the lining it is good to lay batting according to the shape of the skin. Metal rings are sewn to the head, tail, paws at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other for attaching the carpet to the wall. You can make a carpet with a head and an open mouth out of the skin. However, this work requires a lot of knowledge and experience. If desired, the manufacture of such a carpet can be ordered in a taxidermy workshop.

The next main task of the owner of the trophy is to preserve it so that neither moths nor skin beetles damage the skin. To do this, you need to follow the skin, periodically shake it off, dry it in the sun.

The quality of trophies, their preservation, and a good display appearance to a large extent depend on their processing and design. Great importance at national and international exhibitions and competitions, it is attached to the design of the trophy. Before starting the direct processing of a hunting trophy, the hunter must take care of it at the hunting place, since trophies are often damaged during their transportation. If the animal carcass cannot be delivered with the trophy without damaging it, then it is best to separate the trophy from the carcass. Usually the skull is separated from the neck after the skin has been removed. In this case, special attention is paid to the preservation of the integrity of the occipital parts of the skull. The head of an elk, deer, roe deer is cut along a line coinciding with the angle of the jawbone. To do this, the head is pulled back and the muscles of the neck around the head are cut at the level of the movable joint of the skull and the first cervical vertebra, then the articular membrane is cut with the end of the knife and the head is separated from the cervical vertebra with a strong jerk. When transporting a wild boar, the head can not be separated from the carcass, but so that the fangs are not damaged, the jaws are tightly tied by laying a tuft of hay between them, and the fangs are wrapped with paper.

Proper processing and design allow you to identify the main advantages of trophies and draw the viewer's attention to them. Processing and design are not very difficult and accessible to everyone, but they require great accuracy and thoroughness. Processing and decoration of trophies consists of the following operations: cleaning the skull, boiling, filing, degreasing and bleaching, choosing a stand and mounting.

For processing hunting trophies, it is necessary to have two sharp knives - one with a long blade, the other with a short one; tweezers, scalpel and scraper to remove the brain. The scraper is made of steel in the form of a spoon measuring 2x2.5 cm and 15–20 cm long; a wooden handle is put on the end of the scraper. The edges of the scraper must be sharply sharpened.

First, the skull should be cleaned of meat, which is most conveniently done at the place of cutting the carcass. To do this, cut off the largest muscles with a sharp knife, remove the eyes and tongue. After abundant salting, the skull can be safely transported for several days even in hot weather. To scare away blowflies, it is a good idea to sprinkle the skull with mothballs. When transporting, it is desirable to lay the horns together with the head on hay or straw.

The brain is removed with a scraper, stirring the brain to a soft state, through the occipital foramen, without expanding it. You can also use a wooden spatula or a wire hook instead of a scraper, a stick with cotton wool wound on the end. Then the skull is washed under a strong stream of water.

There are several methods for the final cleaning of the skull, but the simplest and fastest is boiling the skull in water. The only drawback is that the bones cleaned in this way, if you do not strictly follow the rules, are sometimes not snow-white, but retain a yellowish tint. So that the skull does not darken during cooking and later bleaches more easily, it is first placed in running water for 10–20 hours. If the water is not running, it is changed several times. For better exsanguination of the skull, add 1% sodium chloride solution to the water.

The skull is boiled in a large saucepan or cauldron so that the water constantly covers it completely, but does not reach the horns. To do this, the trophy is tied to two wooden bars and with the help of this device, the immersion depth is regulated. It is advisable to wrap the lower third of the horns (sockets and lower processes) with a rag so that grease and water do not get on the horns.

The skull is never placed in hot water and heated together with water. After boiling, the greasy foam is constantly removed, adding evaporated water, since the bone protruding from the water turns brown and then does not bleach. It is very good after half an hour of cooking to change the water and start boiling in clean water. When cooking, it is not recommended to add any chemicals (soda, ammonia, washing powder, alkali, etc.).

The duration of skull boiling is 1.5–3.5 hours, depending on the size, type and age of the animal. Particular care should be taken when processing the skulls of small ungulates, the bones of which do not fuse. When boiling such skulls, every few minutes they check how the meat is separated from the bones. With its easy separation, boiling is stopped so as not to destroy the bonds connecting some bones. When the muscles and tendons are welded to sufficient softness, the skull is lowered into clean water cool down and start cleaning. The meat softened by boiling is separated with tweezers, and the ligaments fused with the skull are scraped off with a scalpel or knife. Then the cranium is cleaned from the remnants of the brain, films.

Before boiling out the skulls of bovid animals (mountain sheep, goats, antelopes, etc.), it is necessary to remove the horns. To do this, they are immersed in water for one or two days so that it covers the entire horn to the ground. The skull can remain above the water. Water soaks (macerates) the connective tissue formations that connect the horns with the bone base of the frontal bones, and they are easily removed from the bone bases. The removed horns must be washed well and dried in the shade, and the skulls must be boiled and cleaned in the usual way. After filing, degreasing and bleaching the skulls, the horns are put on the bone rods.

After a thorough cleaning of the skull from meat, ligaments and brain, it is important to skillfully file.

In deer, goats, rams, it is best to keep the skulls whole. Such a trophy is more valuable, since the age of the animal can always be determined by the wear of the teeth. The lower jaw is recommended to be attached to the trophy with a string or thin wire.

Sometimes only a small shapeless piece of the frontal bones is left with the horns, and the horns, as it were, lose their logical connection with the skull. Such horns look on their own, and not as a combat and tournament weapon of a male stag. To avoid this, the nasal, frontal and part of the parietal bones are left with the horns. If the horns are large and massive, then only the base of the skull with teeth is removed. At the same time, not only the nasal, but also the intermaxillary bones and the upper parts of the orbits are preserved.

The base of the skull is filed with a surgical or carpenter's saw with fine teeth, marking the filing line in advance. To do this, the skull is immersed in water so that only those parts that need to be preserved with horns remain above the water. Having strengthened it in this position, the water level is marked with a pencil, then the skull is taken out of the water and a cut is made along the line. When sawing, the skull must be in a wet state, otherwise dry bones crumble easily.

No matter how the skull is cleaned, fat remains in the bones, which gives them a yellow color, so the bones must be degreased. by the most in a simple way is the soaking of the skull for a day in pure gasoline, then it is lowered into water and boiled quickly. In this case, fire safety measures are especially carefully observed.

For bleaching, you can use a 30% solution of hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2). The skull is immersed in the solution, making sure that it does not get on the horns, keeping for 15 minutes (no more). Using a solution of hydrogen peroxide of this concentration should be extremely careful not to damage the skin of the hands and not burn the clothes. The bleached skull is washed with water and dried.

The third method of rapid bleaching is boiling the skull for 5–15 minutes (depending on the size of the skull) in a 25% solution ammonia(250 cm 3 per 1 liter of water). Make sure that the horns do not touch the water. At the end of boiling, a 33% solution of hydrogen peroxide is applied several times to the hot bones with a brush and, without washing it off, the skull is dried. It is better to work with hydrogen peroxide in rubber gloves.

The fourth method - the washed skull is covered with cotton wool or gauze soaked in a 7-10% hydrogen peroxide solution with the addition of 5 ml of 25% ammonia solution per 1 liter of water. Bleaching is carried out for 4-5 hours in a dark place.

Fifth method - the skull is soaked for 1-2 hours in water, then boiled for several minutes, after which it is taken out of the water, dried slightly and a 33% solution of hydrogen peroxide, mixed to a density of sour cream with fine chalk or magnesium powder, is placed on it. it in a dark damp place for 10-24 hours. Then the skull is washed with water and a brush, dried in the sun. Make sure that this solution does not get on the horns. After bleaching, light cosmetics of the horns and skull are allowed, light horns can be slightly tinted with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or infusion of the shell walnuts, for this, the shell is dipped in hot water and insisted for several hours.

It is necessary to tint the horns very carefully, since experts can give a discount for light horns during evaluation, and remove them from the competition for clumsily tinted horns.

Covering the horns with varnish or other dyes is not allowed, otherwise they will not be allowed to participate in competitions and exhibitions.

Before cosmetics, the skull should be tied in a plastic bag. The tips of the processes of deer antlers can be polished white with fine sandpaper. To give shine, dry horns are coated with a brush with paraffin or stearin dissolved in gasoline. After the solution has dried, the horns are polished to a shine with a shoe brush.

In order to eliminate the roughness on the skull, it is polished with fine sandpaper and rubbed with chalk powder dissolved in denatured alcohol. Talc is applied to a cleanly rubbed bone and covered with a thin layer of a liquid solution of a colorless synthetic varnish or the bones are rubbed with cotton wool soaked in polish. Such varnishing is usually carried out on the skulls of predatory animals.

To extract the fangs of a wild boar, a part of the animal's muzzle is sawn off between the eyes and fangs, as shown in Figure 69. This piece of muzzle must be at least three and a half times longer than the visible part of the lower fangs. The sawn off part is placed in a boiler with cold water so that it is completely hidden under water. The water is brought to a boil and simmered for 2-3 hours. After boiling, the jaws with fangs are removed from the boiler and, without letting them cool, the fangs are removed. To avoid burns, use gloves or rags. The upper fangs are usually removed easily, and to extract the lower ones, they need to be pulled forward 3–5 cm, and then the jaw bones are carefully opened from the back so that the fangs come out freely. Then the fangs are placed in a cauldron of hot oily water to cool. They should not be left without water and washed with cold water. The fang, cooling in oily water, is saturated with fat and acquires a protective layer. After cooling, the nerves are removed from the fangs and wiped inner surface cotton, dry in a damp and warm place to avoid cracking.

Rice. 69. Extraction of boar tusks

After drying, the fangs are degreased with gasoline. Inner part it is recommended to fill the fangs with BF glue (any) and, holding it inside for 5–10 s, pour it out, repeating this two or three times at intervals of 30 minutes. Glue before this is heated in a bowl with warm water so that it pours out more easily. Instead of BF glue, the inside of the fangs can be filled with epoxy resin of the following composition: 80 parts of filler and 20 hardener. Instead of glue, the canine cavities can be filled with tweezers with cotton soaked in epoxy resin; after 12 hours, the glue hardens, giving them greater strength.

So that the fangs do not deteriorate from changes in humidity, they can be covered with a thin layer of colorless synthetic varnish. Canine teeth cannot be bleached.