Balsam does not bloom how to force. Proper care of indoor balsam at home

This is one of the traditional potted crops. Among the people, she has many other names: “Vanka is wet”, “Diligent Liza”, “touchy”, “light”. The appearance of nicknames is facilitated by various features of the plant: allocate dew, spew seeds from the box when touched. Habitat inhabited - tropical and subtropical forests. Homeland - Africa and Asia.

Balsam is very picky about lighting, it should be long but without direct sunlight. It is better to water the flower often but a little bit, you can also spray the plant to maintain moisture.

A profusely flowering bush is unpretentious and, with proper care, is able to delight with its decorative effect. long years. The stem is thin with a smooth surface, reaches up to 40 cm. The leaves are dark green in color, oval oblong in shape. Each has a slight interspersing of a noble purple color. The flowers have a wide colorful palette: yellow with purple, burgundy with pink, purple with white, and others. Flowering occurs almost without interruption throughout the warm season.

Growing and caring for a flower

Locations, lighting and temperature

Herbaceous representative of the flora very fond of light. His favorite place in the house will be a window oriented to the south. Do not forget about the harmful effects of direct sunlight, especially through glass. Bright juicy foliage threatens to burn.

On hot days, artificial shading is installed, but only for the period of active solar activity. With the onset of cold weather, they remove it, but move the pot away from the glass. Frost and cold balsam does not tolerate. When choosing a room, you should take into account the love of fresh air, but drafts should be avoided. If you place it incorrectly, then the light will increase the root mass, to the detriment of flowering. The shape of the crown becomes irregular, and the buds move to its very edge.

The subtropical past requires enough heat. Despite the successful adaptation of the exotic to our climate, it does not survive the cold well. From December to March, the room should not be less than 14 degrees Celsius, and in the rest of the month allowable temperature from 20 to 30 degrees, with sufficient humidity.

Watering and humidity

The plant needs frequent but moderate watering.

Moisture-loving handsome man unable to tolerate drought. By keeping the soil constantly moist, long and lush flowering can be ensured. With the onset of spring, more moisture is required; in autumn, watering is reduced by 2 times. Water is used purified, at room temperature. It's not worth filling it up. This can cause root rot.

Optimal: water little, but often. In summer, after watering, dew drops appear on the leaves and dry quickly. If an unforeseen situation happened when there was no opportunity to “water” the zealous Lisa and she dried up, then she can still be saved. The container is completely immersed in a pan with water for 2 hours. The liquid, which is glass in the pan, is poured out the next day. The touchy will come to life, but will be weak. It takes time to recover.

So that the wet vanka does not dry out, it is important to monitor the thermometer. Once it has risen above +22 should be taken additional measures security. A pallet is installed next to the flowerpot.

Pot selection

Required small. The pet does not like large vessels. For lush flowering, the root system must completely envelop it. inner part. Otherwise, the balsam will only grow green mass until the roots fill the inside of the flowerpot.

If there is no opportunity to plant it in a small container, then you can use a large one, but for 2 bushes at once. A drainage layer is poured into each container, without exception. It should be at least one third of the total volume of the substrate. Must have drainage holes. Otherwise, the exotic is threatened with many diseases.

Soil and fertilizer

By choosing the right soil mixture, you can provide the plant with all necessary conditions growth. Ideally, this is a light nutrient soil. You can buy it at flower shop- soil for flowering indoor plants. Or make your own with these ingredients:

• humus;
• sod land;
• sand in equal parts.

Mix everything thoroughly and add 1/2 part of the peat. Heavy soils impede growth and full development.

AT winter period fertilizers should not be completely abandoned. Support is provided in small portions once a month. Favorably affects the plant in this season nitrogen fertilization. The active stage of fertilization begins immediately after leaving the dormant state. For primary support, a phosphorus-potassium mixture is used. It is given 2 times a month. But observing certain rules: fertilizers include only healthy specimens in the "diet"; during rest and within a month after transplantation, support is not required; it is necessary to make strictly the amount indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer.

An excess of additional nutrition negatively affects health.

plant pruning

Held in the spring. The stems are shortened if they have grown, and the crown has lost its attractiveness. You can cut them off by no more than one third. And if the length is optimal, but growth stimulation is required, then pinch the stems. Thus, the bush is rejuvenated, and the cut fragments are used for the purpose of reproduction.

Balsam transplant

It is carried out every year and after purchase. To avoid stress, do it in the spring, as soon as active growth begins. Changing the pot favorably affects the appearance of new shoots and the size of the buds.

Experienced gardeners It is advised to carry out the procedure 2 times a year: in autumn and spring. So they protect the culture from diseases, loss of attractiveness and stimulate the formation of a voluminous and dense bush.

Pests and diseases

Does the most damage. The growth of the infection is facilitated by: cool air, stagnant moisture and non-compliance with the rules for care. The causative agent enters the inside of the flame along with moisture. After 3-4 days, spots appear on the stems, which are replaced by a whitish coating and the leaves die off. They darken and fall off. To prevent the death of the balsam, you need to act quickly.

First of all, the frequency of moisture changes - they become scarce. So you can protect against the appearance of dew. The room is systematically ventilated, avoiding drafts. All affected parts are removed, and healthy parts are carefully sprayed with insecticides.

Thrips - can harm the plant, if they are found, the plant should be treated

A sure sign of uninvited guests is the deformation of young sprouts. Gradually, pests populate an increasing area and new symptoms appear. The tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow, the immunity of the flower is weakened, brown spots appear, and the decorative effect is lost. The diligent Lisa, who falls ill, is quarantined and treated with insecticides. All affected parts are removed and burned.

flower reproduction

cuttings

This method preserves all the features of the mother "individual". Cut planting material when transplanting. Choose a branch without buds. The optimal length is 9-11 cm. Each should have at least 2 internodes. The lower leaves are cut off.

Rooting methods:

• water. Immersion occurs before the foliage. It should not be wetted, so that rotting does not begin. The layering needs a well-lit space with warm air. The root system will begin to develop immediately and after 2 weeks, layers can be transplanted into the soil.
• priming. The grounding of a healthy cutting is shallow. You can prepare a suitable substrate with your own hands: peat and vermiculite in equal parts, 2 parts perlite. It should always be slightly damp. After watering, shallow loosening is recommended for oxygenation.

How to choose a healthy plant in the store

A careful examination of the impatiens will help you quickly and very accurately determine whether the plant is healthy and whether it is worth buying. Signs of a sick wet roly:

• dry tips of foliage, spots, stripes, plaque and lethargy;
• pale color, small flowers and buds;
• obvious signs of insects;
• irregular, deformed crown shape.
• bad smell.

If none of the above symptoms are present, then you can agree to the purchase. After being transported home, he is given a secluded corner, without bright light. Transplantation and unhurried introduction of irrigation regime, fertilizers, etc. are obligatory. It takes time to adapt.

The most common types

The extensive family includes many amazing representatives:

• garden;
• Waller;
• terry;
• impreza;
• Hokker;
• New Guinean.

If the flowering of balsam suddenly stops or does not start at all, you need to carefully check the conditions in which the plant is kept, literally point by point:

illumination

In tropical Asia and Africa, the birthplace of balsams, the day is long and saturated with sunlight. Therefore, first of all, those plants that experience lighting deficiency. You need to move the container to a brighter place (but not in the sun). If this is not possible, or the daylight hours have decreased seasonally, additional illumination should be arranged.

Frequent changes are also undesirable.

Temperature

Optimum temperature in summer - 20-22 degrees, in winter - not lower than 15 degrees. This is the meaning +15ºС - critical: with more low temperatures ah, the flowering stops.

Sudden temperature changes, strong drafts also lead to the dropping of buds.

Watering

The earth in the container must always be hydrated (but not stagnant wet).

Humidity and freshness of the air

If the plant is kept at a temperature 20 degrees and above, necessarily regular spraying; at the same time, the splashes should not fall on the flowers.

Very desirable during the summer outdoor vacations, on the balcony, with protection from the intense midday sun.

Landing tank size

Flowering will be abundant in a slightly cramped pot.

If the container is too large, the main forces of the balsam go to the development of the root system and soil development, and not to flowering.

top dressing

From March to September-October, once every two weeks, fertilizing with complex fertilizers should be carried out with the obligatory presence of potassium and phosphorus- elements necessary for flowering plants. There should not be an excess of nitrogenous compounds that “feed” only the green mass.

At the same time, nutrition should not be excessive: an “overfed” plant does not bloom.

Damage by pests and diseases

You need to carefully examine the plant: perhaps it vitality weakens spider mites, whiteflies or aphids. As an emergency, treatment of the affected areas with soapy water, a warm shower are used. However, most effectively these insects will eliminate systemic insecticide.

If a constant excess of moisture in the soil is combined with a low temperature (too cool room or watering cold water), Maybe decay of stems and root system.

In this case, the balsam is not at all up to flowering. Need remove damaged parts and urgently optimize watering and temperature.

In the case of an advanced process, you should choose healthy cuttings for propagation, root them and keep them in optimal conditions, and get rid of the rest of the plant and wash the pot well.

A healthy plant in a slightly cramped container, not affected by pests, standing in bright, mostly diffused light, at a temperature of about 20 degrees, moderately watered with regular spraying, will fully manifest its abundant tropical nature.

Flowers of a characteristic form with spurs, single and double, with a border or spots, white, pink, carmine and purple will cover the balsam from March to November.

A photo

Next you will see a photo of Balsam flowering:

Answer: Maybe it's all about lighting - the sun loves the balsam, it grows even in open ground, and even at home, behind glass ... Further: the soil is bad. Of course, it is possible (and necessary) to feed the plant (there is not enough food!), But balsams are such flowers that, when grown for a long time in one dish without transplants, quickly "exhale". Since the greenery is "rushing", and the flowers are falling off, of course, there is food, but defective. Apparently, nitrogen is more than necessary. Feed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. If the plant was in the shade, then accustom to the sun gradually. Well, over time, the earth will have to be replaced - your balsam does not like it, the quality is doubtful, because the flower understands this better than we do. You cannot deceive him, even if you add gold to the earth.

That flowering can be weak when there is a large dish or excess nutrition, this is true, but in your case it is not weak flowering that is alarming, but the fact that the flowers fall off (!) - this is already a manifestation of some kind of harmful factor.

Location: bright diffused light, partial shade. Place only on the southern windows. Shade in summer. Doesn't like changes.

Watering: in summer - plentiful, in winter - moderate. Only soft water at room temperature.

Humidity: Spray frequently. Avoid getting water on the flowers.

Temperature: Winter 15-20 C, summer 20-25 C. Does not tolerate drafts.

Transplant: as needed in the spring. Blooms only in a tight pot.

Pruning: cut off a few centimeters in spring, pinch to enhance branching.

Top dressing: spring-summer - 1 time in 2 weeks with mineral fertilizers, winter-autumn - without top dressing.

Reproduction: in spring and summer, apical cuttings. Easily rooted in water. Plants grown from spring cuttings bloom in the summer, and from summer cuttings - throughout the winter.

Pests: spider mite, cyclamen mite, whitefly, aphid.

Possible difficulties:

Falling leaves. The reason is prolonged hypothermia. Other reasons may be irregular watering and severe pest infestation.

Leaf wilting. The reason is insufficient watering.

Fall of flowers. The reason is the lack of light.

What is Balsam sick with and how to cure it?

Other reasons may be dry air, drying out of the soil, or infestation with red spider mites.

Weak flowering. There may be several reasons. The most likely ones are lack of light, lack or excess of nutrition, too low a temperature, or premature transplantation.

Doesn't bloom. The usual reason why flowering in an adult plant does not occur is a transplant. Balsam blooms only in a cramped pot.

Stretched stems. The reason is too high a temperature combined with a lack of light, although in some traditional varieties, even under favorable conditions, the stems begin to become bare rather quickly.

Root rot. The reason is waterlogging, especially when not high temperature and insufficient lighting. In winter, always reduce watering, watering very carefully if the temperature does not exceed 15 degrees.

Have you tried feeding?

Sharp fluctuations in temperature due to hypothermia or ventilation; too dry air; dry coma; lack of light; unbalanced diet; excess nitrogen

Don't turn the pot when it's budded. Keep the soil slightly damp. Don't let it dry out. And check for spider mites.

My balsam, recently updated, has gained a lot of buds. It is just starting to bloom.

Read also:

Site navigation

Popular Articles

A stunted touchy, or why buds and flowers fall at the balsam: we solve the problem in a timely manner

Balsam- one of the favorite indoor plants of many generations of people, beautiful, bright, abundantly flowering, cheerful.

But it is suitable not only for growing on window sills, balsams are also good in flower boxes on balconies and terraces, but they are great for decorating flower beds in the open field.

Balsam is surprisingly easy to adapt to any type of lighting.

You can not just put it in the scorching sun or in a dark corner.

If the plant is obtained from cuttings, then there should be no problems. In a large balsam, it is better to find at least a temporary “residence” with diffused lighting and sufficient humidity. Then the pot with the plant needs to be gradually, gradually rearranged closer and closer to the place that was prepared for permanent "living".

Indoor balsams love strong diffused light, so the plants are kept on the east and west windows. They should be shaded from direct sun, as burns will appear on the leaves. In order to grow a beautiful bush, periodically turn the plant towards the light.

The ideal temperature for keeping balsams in an apartment is + 15 ... 25 ° С.

Watering. Balsams are watered regularly, but so that the earth in the pots has time to dry. It is impossible to overdry strongly - this will lead to slower growth, falling of flowers and buds. The need for watering your balsams can be determined by touch or with a flick of a finger on the wall of the pot. A pot of dry soil will make a ringing sound, while wet soil will make a dull sound.

Water should be soft and settled. Watering with hard water leads to alkalization of the substrate and the accumulation of a large amount of salts in it, which interfere with the normal absorption of nutrients, and over time will lead to various diseases.

At improper watering lime scale forms on the walls of the pot, and white salt spots appear on the surface of the substrate. In this case, it is required to transplant the plant into a clean pot with partial replacement of the earth.

Periodically between waterings, carefully loosen the top layer of the substrate with a wooden stick. This promotes aeration of the soil, which is necessary for the respiration of the roots. Loosen the soil carefully and no deeper than 1 cm, and only at the walls of the pot, so as not to damage the roots located close to the surface.

Balsams should be watered along the edge of the pot, trying not to soak the root neck, and in no case from above. The amount of water should be sufficient to wet the earth ball. Make sure that the water does not stagnate in the pan for more than 15-20 minutes. Be sure to drain off the excess.

You can also water from below into the pan. Pour water and leave in the pan for no more than 30 minutes. Pour out the excess. This method of watering will save time.

If you accidentally flooded the plant and its leaves withered, stop watering and urgently transplant the balsam into a new substrate.

Balsam: winter care

The most difficult and troublesome thing is keeping plants in winter. It is at this time that they experience the greatest difficulties - from dry air, high temperatures (when room heating batteries are working and air humidity is no more than 30-40%), lack of light. Plants may begin to shed their leaves and even die. Required for a normal life relative humidity air from 60% to 80%.

To avoid problems in winter, you have to spray the plants several times a day from a spray bottle with settled water at room temperature. It is better to boil hard water so that salt stains do not remain on the leaves.

Why do the buds fall at the balsam

Water should not fall on blossoming flowers. You can install pots and pallets filled with peat, expanded clay, moss. This will increase the air humidity near the plants by 10-15%.

Important!
Balsams, like many other indoor plants, do not tolerate smokers. Tobacco smoke is very harmful to them. One has only to blow tobacco smoke under a glass jar covering the balsam, as the plant will wither and die in a few days.

Balsams grow and bloom well in any light, loose and nutritious soil mixture, provided there is good drainage and breathability.

Balsams love small pots to keep them cramped. Varieties of balsams with dark-colored leaves are planted in sunny places. The color of their leaves will appear brighter.

Timely, moderate and proper feeding will extend the flowering period of your balsams.
the best way obtaining pure-bred plants is vegetative propagation.
In order not to infect all plants, destroy the sick immediately, and urgently treat suspicious ones with the appropriate preparation. Be sure to fight pests: mites, aphids, etc. Otherwise, they will nullify all your efforts.

Buy varietal plants whenever possible.

Many years of experience have shown that balsams brought into the room from the street are hard to tolerate climate change and often get sick.

In winter, it is desirable to keep balsams at a lower temperature (about 15-17 ° C), watering should be slightly reduced. It should be watered with water 2-3 ° C warmer, but not plentiful, as the soil can turn sour, which will lead to rotting of the roots and death of the plant. If the roots are still damaged, you must immediately cut off the upper healthy parts of the stems and root them again. After watering, it is necessary to ensure that the water does not stagnate in the pan.

In severe frost, the temperature on the windowsills can drop sharply. Make sure that the root system does not suffer from hypothermia. To do this, it is necessary to insulate the window frames, put the plants on a stand or foam.

Fresh air is necessary for balsams. While airing the room, protect them from drafts and harsh cold air by covering them with newspaper or a light garden covering.

Spring pruning of balsams

But winter is not eternal, spring comes - and with it its own spring worries. At the end of winter - the beginning of spring, many houseplants, including balsams, are useful to prune. The stems of balsams are very fragile and in strongly overgrown plants break off easily. In the spring, thin, elongated, ugly shoots are pruned. Pruning is not done immediately, but in several stages, in order to injure the plant less. Then gradually increase watering and transplant the plant into fresh soil. New shoots will not keep you waiting long.

Old specimens are recommended to be cut, leaving only 3-5 cm above the soil surface, or replaced with new ones grown from cuttings.

You need to update the plants when the stems of the old ones begin to become bare. For more compact cultivation and tillering, balsams must be pinched periodically. This will encourage more lush blooms. Regular removal of wilted flowers and yellowing leaves also promotes flowering and prevents disease and pests.

The soil. Balsams grow well and bloom in any light, loose and nutritious soil mixture, provided that there is good drainage and breathability, when preparing the soil for balsams, the main thing is not to overdo it with “fat content”, soil nutrition, otherwise all the forces of the plant will go into green mass and flowering will be weak. You should also not be zealous with peat and soil baking powder - balsams have large thick stems (and not too small in height), and in too loose soil, the roots will not withstand the weight and will not provide the plant with sufficient stability.
For adult plants, a substrate of soddy soil, humus, compost, peat and perlite (1:1:1:1:1) or leafy soil, sand and peat (2:1:1) is suitable. The substrate must be slightly acidic. Be sure to disinfect the soil mixture.

fertilizers

Never fertilize a plant if the earth ball is dry. First, be sure to spill it with water and only after a while - with liquid fertilizers.
.Do not fertilize diseased, weakened and newly transplanted plants. Start fertilizing the latter no earlier than in 2-3 weeks, when they take root, and the roots master the land volume.
.Fertilize young plants “on the leaf”.
.Do not feed in bright midday sun, do so in the evening, early morning or at cloudy weather.
.Do not fertilize plants more than once every ten days.

Diseases of indoor balsam, their causes

Some diseases of balsams are caused by improper conditions of detention: violation of lighting, humidity and temperature regime, errors when fertilizing

Difficulties in growing indoor balsam

Stretched stems- lack of light, high temperature content.

Root rot- plentiful watering, waterlogging.

Pests- most often affected by red spider mites and aphids.

Mature plant does not bloom- the plant is planted in too large a pot. Balsams love their roots to be tight. pay attention to fertilizer: it may have a high nitrogen content.

Weak and not abundant flowering- lack of nutrition, lack of light, low temperature of maintenance, premature transplantation, excess nutrition, large pot size.

fall of flowers- frequent drying of the earthy coma, lack of light, pest damage.

leaf fall- irregular watering, hypothermia, severe pest damage.

wilting leaves- Irregular or insufficient watering. Leaves may wilt after heavy watering of the plant.

based on materials from the magazine "Flowers in the garden and at home"

The beautiful and abundantly blooming indoor flower Balsam has long and firmly settled in the apartments of amateur flower growers for its unpretentious nature and bright eternal flowering. In addition, Balzamin feels great in the summer at their summer cottage or in the garden near the house, leaving no one indifferent with its wonderful view. We will tell you about the care of indoor balsam at home.

The Balsam flower, due to its special properties, has many other names among the people. For example, it is called Touchy, and this name is due to the fact that at the time of seed ripening, fruit boxes crumble at the slightest touch to them, even burst from a breath of wind. By the way, the name Balsam (Impatiens) is translated from Latin just means "Handy", i.e. sensitive, intolerant of pressure.

Or here is another name for Balzamin - "Spark". As soon as the evening time approaches, hundreds of flowers open on Balsam - lights of different colors and shades: white, pink, orange, red, purple. They illuminate the surrounding space with their wonderful light - very beautiful!

And here is another wonderful name for Balsam - "Vanka is wet." So it is called for the constant need for moisture and the ability, after watering or before the onset of bad weather, to allocate droplets of sugary dew along the edge of the leaves.

History and description of the Balsam flower

Its homeland is considered the island of Zanzibar, as well as subtropical regions of Africa and Central Asia. Until now, Balsam can be found in the wild in the subtropics of India, Africa and North America. The flower was brought to Europe at the end of the 16th century. There he settled down superbly. Balzamin appeared in Russia only in the 19th century. The balsam family has about 500 plant species that share a love for sunshine and moisture. In a temperate climate, only 8 species can grow. And 15 were brought into culture.

Balsam in the wild

Balsams are annual plants and perennials. Annuals usually decorate garden beds with their bright multi-colored flowers and are very popular. Perennials are grown at home as indoor flowers that bloom almost all year round.

Balsam stems are transparent, juicy and brittle. Their length is 35-50 cm and above. Growth form - upright, bushy or ampelous. The root system is uric. The leaves are elongated-oval (about 7 cm long) or heart-shaped, expanding at the petiole and tapering towards the tip. The arrangement of the leaves is another. Along the edge of the leaves are small or large teeth, ending in a small spine. The color of the leaves is usually light green or deep green, but there are species with dark green leaves with a tint of lilac or brown. On the leaves, the veins are clearly visible, slightly darker than the main tone.

Balsam flowers have 5 petals unusual shape. They are freely arranged, fused in pairs, solitary or collected in inflorescences. In the inflorescence sometimes comes across one petal elongated into a spur. The color of the petals has all sorts of shades of pink, red, white and purple. A small white bud opens with large, bright and saturated petals.

There are Balsams with bicolor flowers, with different shapes of buds, for example, in the form of a rose, fringed, carnation or camellia. There are flowers with double and semi-double petals. Faded buds form green fruits. When ripe, these fruits form a dry box.

The most popular types and varieties of Balsams

Waller

This is a bush up to 50 cm high. It has upright juicy stems, delicate wide green or brownish oval leaves. This Balsam loves heat and light, and this circumstance must be taken into account when choosing his place of residence. Flowers may be single or bicolor, abundant flowering. Waller's balsam became the progenitor of numerous hybrid varieties.

New Guinean

Balsam New Guinea is a hybrid perennial plant that has large flowers of bright colors. It can be grown both outdoors and in a pot on a windowsill. Not afraid of direct sunlight. Differs in resistance to insect pests and diseases. Beautiful leaves have a rich green color with yellow veins. Blooms profusely in a warm sunny position.

Kandy

This is a young, newly bred variety. The bush has smooth, juicy stems up to half a meter long, from which petioles extend with oblong leaves with a pointed tip. The color of the leaves is various shades green. Flowering is plentiful, buds on tall pedicels have a different color. The flowers are soft and velvety to the touch. The variety is decorative and care is not demanding.

Strawberries with cream

This is a spectacular terry Balsam variety with red-white flowers up to 4 cm in diameter. A compact plant with well-branched stems. It blooms for a long time even with light shading.

Peters

This species is distinguished by the color of the foliage - it has a bronze tint. Blooms profusely with bright red flowers.

Orchidaceous

This species has a juicy brittle dark pink stem. Velvety to the touch leaves of dark green color have dark pink or red streaks that run along the entire length of the leaves. The flowers are shaped like shoes. The petals are painted White color, sometimes with yellow-orange or burgundy splashes. This Balsam is not affected by spider mites.

Tom Thumb

This is a beautiful and profusely flowering bush of compact size with branched stems and bright, double large flowers. It can be grown as an indoor flower or outdoors. This variety loves sunny places, but is able to grow and bloom in partial shade and even in the shade, where its branches and flowers will be smaller. The flower should be watered abundantly, as it does not tolerate drying out of the soil. To make the bush more branched, its tops need to be pinched. Indoor Balsam can grow in a cramped pot. In the open field, the size of the flower will undoubtedly be large.

Cutie

This is a beautiful, compact bush with dense foliage. Remarkably blooms with pink or white flowers at home - all year round, and in the garden - all summer. Its height does not exceed 20 cm. It loves warmth. Grows in both sun and light shade.

Salmon Chiffon

This bush is notable for its long and abundant flowering with incredibly large double flowers of bright color. The petals are reminiscent of the delicate fabric of chiffon in a bright salmon shade.

There is still great amount other varieties, but they are more capricious, require more painstaking care, so they are less common in the collections of beginner flower growers. In this article, we will introduce you to the rules for caring for Balsams, which will be on the shoulder of the most lazy or busy grower.

General rules for the care of Balsam

All types of Balsam have common features and needs. It will be easier for you to care for the plant if you remember them.

• Abundant watering. The substrate is better to pour than to forget to water.
• Fresh air. They love it, but they can't stand drafts. When airing the room in winter, do not forget to set the pot away from air currents.
• They bloom best in small pots.
• Easily propagated by cuttings and seeds.
• They love light and warmth.
• They grow well on the windowsill, only in the hot midday time they need to be shaded, and in the winter months - move the pot away from the glass and closer to the edge of the windowsill, where the heat from the battery is felt.
• For winter maintenance, you need a bright room with a temperature of +15 degrees and moderate moisture.
• In the summer, Balsams can be planted in the ground, and in the fall they can be returned to an apartment or house. In the garden for the summer they can be planted in the shade of trees.

With proper care, the Light will continuously delight you with its flowering. Now about everything in order.

Location in the apartment and lighting

The best place for Balsam in the apartment is the windowsill south window. There is a place for a light-loving flower. Only young specimens at midday should be covered with a light curtain or blinds so that the sun does not inadvertently burn the delicate leaves through the window glass. If possible, find a place for them on the east or west window sills. It refers to summer period, and in the rest of the year it is not necessary to protect the plant from the sun. On the contrary, if the flower was somewhere away from the windowsill or on the other side of the apartment, move it to the south window.

In a dark place, the Light will not bloom at all. If the flower pot is not positioned correctly, the plant will begin to stretch upward, the stem will become bare, and the lower leaves will fall off. Such a Light will bloom rarely and reluctantly, only at the very top. If you guess with the location of the flower in your house, your Balsam will almost certainly bloom from early spring to late autumn, it will only rest for a short time in winter, so that with the beginning of spring it will again delight you with bright flowers.

In the summer, it is advisable to take home Balsam to the terrace, balcony or gazebo, to a place where there is a lot of light and fresh air, but rain and wind will not be able to get it and break it.

Watering

It is equally important for the flowering of Balsam that the soil substrate is kept moist. At the ready should always be a bottle of water that has settled during the day. In summer, the flower is watered more often; in winter, watering is reduced by 1/3. But without watering, a wet Vanka will not last long. Water it immediately as soon as the topsoil dries to a depth of 1 cm. In hot summer it will be every other day or even every day, and in winter - 2 times a week. Use only soft, well-settled or filtered water, without impurities. If a white coating appears on the surface of the substrate, then the water for irrigation is too hard, and the soil has begun to alkalinize. Remove the top layer of soil, and pour a fresh portion of the substrate into the pot.

It is also not worth pouring a flower or leaving it in a full pan with water. Especially at low temperatures and low light. Water frequently but sparingly. Drain excess water from the pan. Don't let the roots rot. Check if there are drainage holes and drainage in your pot. The root system will get sick - the flower will die. If you water your Balsam correctly, then after each watering in the summer, small droplets of moisture will appear on its leaves, which after some time candied.

Vanka loves wet, so that after watering the soil in the pot is loosened - this will increase the access of oxygen to the roots of the plant. And yet - it is advisable to pour water in a thin stream along the edge of the pot so as not to fall on the root collar.

If you notice that the leaves are covered with dust, gently rinse them under running water at room temperature. Otherwise, the flower will not have enough light to produce chlorophyll.

Temperature

Fire loves warmth. A comfortable temperature in the summer should be from 20 to 28 degrees, and in winter in the room where you put the pot for winter holiday, keep the temperature at least 16 degrees, as Balsam hardly tolerates cold.

Humidity

Balsam is not picky about increasing the humidity in the room. Another thing is if the room is hot, and the leaves quickly began to lose moisture and dry. Try everyone possible ways humidity in the room with a flower should be maintained within 40 - 60%. Place containers with water for evaporation next to the pot, turn on household humidifiers or split systems, cover hot batteries with wet towels in winter, spray the air space with a spray bottle. It is not advisable to spray a flowering plant so as not to damage the buds and spoil appearance flower.

Earth

Pot

For growing Balsam, the size of the pot is important. The flower loves a small pot, in which the root system has braided the whole lump - this is an indispensable condition for the abundant flowering of the plant. If you plant the Light in a spacious pot (which turned out to be at home), then he will spend all his strength on building up the root system. It is so laid down by nature - the roots of Balsam must completely braid the lump of soil, only then will it be able to grow and form buds. That is, in a large pot you will wait longer for flowering. In addition, excess soil with frequent watering will turn sour, which will lead to root disease.

In addition to size, drainage holes at the bottom of the pot and the drainage itself are important, in which, in addition to expanded clay or pebbles, pieces of charcoal or activated charcoal should be added to prevent diseases. At the end of the kit, you should purchase a deep pan so that excess water from it does not spill onto the windowsill.

top dressing

Balsams should be fed from April to October twice a month. Fertilizers are used special, for flowering houseplants, which are dominated by phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied carefully, preferably in early spring, as they stimulate the growth of the green mass of the plant. Excess nitrogen can harm future flowering. Feeding doses are taken according to the instructions or half as much - depending on how long ago you changed the substrate in the pot.

Transfer

Balsam is a perennial flowering plant. Over time, the nutritional value of the soil is lost, the shoots are drawn out, the leaves fall off, the appearance of the flower deteriorates. We recommend transplanting young specimens of Balsam into a new pot every year. Choose a size such that the root system of the flower fits completely into it plus a little fresh soil. Remove stretched and extra shoots.

Transplantation should be carried out by transshipment, carefully, since all parts of the plant are very fragile. Water the substrate. If necessary, add more soil. When the Light adapts in a new pot and braids the whole clod of earth, then it will bloom.

If you only have a large pot available, you can plant two or three Balsam cuttings with different flowers at a distance of 5–7 cm from each other in it at once. They will get along well together, and you will get a magnificent multi-colored bush.

Adult specimens of Balsam, which have lost their attractiveness, are advised to rejuvenate by rooting cuttings from the tops of the shoots.

pruning

Balsam is pruned regularly throughout its life. If you are growing a Spark from a seed, then, as soon as seven-lobed leaves appear, pinch the top of the central shoot. Then the side shoots will begin to develop, and the balsam will form a beautiful bush.

If you want to form a flower in the form of a tree, wait until the stem of a young plant becomes woody. Then carefully cut off all the lower leaves, and pinch the main shoot. Sprinkle the cuts with crushed coal. Over time, form side shoots. Feed the plant after pruning with fertilizers (urea, biohumus).

At the beginning of spring of any age Balsam should be cut off. Annual growth must be cut in half. By the way, the crown of the Light should be formed throughout the entire period of its growing season, namely, when the young shoots reach the desired length, pinch the top point of growth. This stimulates the formation of new side stems, which will soon appear bright buds and beautiful flowers.

Balsam rest period

How to save Balsam until next year? Balsam does not have a rest period in the usual sense. Several winter months he is forced to rest from violent flowering, as there is not enough light for him to fully bloom. At this time, it is necessary to transfer the flower to a cooler room (16 - 18 gr.). temperature at 10 gr. is critical for Balsam.

Watering should be reduced, but just like in summer, it should be watered when the topsoil dries to a depth of 1 cm. It is impossible to overdry the soil, as this can lead to a weakening and delay in the development of the flower. If the room is too dry and hot, you need to spray the air around the flower without getting on the buds. It is better not to feed.

If you arrange additional artificial lighting for the flower using a phyto lamp or a fluorescent lamp, then keep other care items necessary for the flower - heat, watering, fertilizing with liquid fertilizers once a month in low concentration. Then the Light will delight you with its flowering all year round.

Conclusion

We introduced you to a beautiful indoor flower- Balsam. It has many varieties, and we are sure that you have already fallen in love with one of them. Care for any kind of Balsam will master any beginner. Try and you grow "Wet Vanka" in your apartment, and as a reward for your work you will receive a magnificent bush that will decorate your house with its bright flowers-lights all year round. If you do everything right, your pet will most likely not be touched by diseases or pests, but just in case, we recommend reading, because forewarned is forearmed. If you like your flower and want to get a few more copies, check out.

Balsam is one of the oldest and most popular indoor plants. Spreading shrub with succulent stems and bright foliage reaches up to 60 cm in height. Flowers - large, simple or double, red, pink, white. Some modern hybrids also have very beautiful variegated foliage. This plant is not difficult to grow; with proper care, indoor balsam is able to bloom almost all year round.

Light and temperature conditions

For good growth, long and abundant flowering, balsam needs a lot of light. The best place for him there will be a window sill of the east or west window. Protect indoor balsam from direct midday rays. The optimum temperature is 18-250. In winter - a bright place at a temperature not lower than 12-150. When hypothermia, indoor balsam may lose leaves.

Balsam is very fond of Fresh air. In the warm season, if possible, take the plant pot to the balcony or garden. Many flower growers for the summer plant indoor balsam in open ground, in the fall, they transplant the bush into a pot and bring it into the house.

Watering and fertilizing indoor balsam

Indoor balsam is a moisture-loving plant. Not without reason among the people he received the name Vanka wet. Due to the slightest lack of water, the leaves and flowers of the balsam quickly wither, and if the plant is not watered in time, they turn yellow and fall off. In the spring and summer, balsam requires abundant, and on especially hot days - daily watering. In winter, water the plant after the soil in the pot dries out a little. One of the features of balsam is the release of sugary liquid crystals on the stems and along the edges of the leaves.

Thus, the plant independently gets rid of excess moisture. However, do not keep indoor balsam in a pan with water all the time - excess moisture can lead to the formation of rot and fungal diseases. Balsam responds well to spraying warm water. When spraying during flowering, try not to get on the opened flowers. Take a warm shower from time to time.

To increase the humidity of the air, place the plant pot on a pallet with wet claydite or pebbles. In spring and autumn, feed indoor balsam 2-3 times a month with complex mineral fertilizer for flowering plants. The dosage is better to take in half concentration. With a lack nutrients balsam stems are stretched, the leaves turn pale and shrink. When flowering in winter, feed the plant after bud formation.

Indoor balsam is transplanted annually in the spring into a loose mixture of leafy, humus earth and sand, taken in a ratio of 1: 1: 0.5. You can add pieces to the mixture charcoal. And be sure to have good drainage. In general, indoor balsam is unpretentious and not picky about the composition of the soil. Balsam is the owner of a powerful root system, so when transplanting, choose a deep enough pot for it.

The capacity for balsam should correspond to the size of its root system: for abundant flowering, balsam needs a slightly cramped pot. Too spacious a pot is one of the reasons why this flower does not bloom.

Balsam room - bright flowering

Balsam bloom lasts a very long time. With enough light and a relatively close pot, the plant blooms continuously from spring to late autumn. Balsam does not have a pronounced dormant period. After a short rest, indoor balsam can bloom again in winter. For winter flowering, the plant needs a temperature of at least 15 degrees, several hours of direct sun per day, and additional lighting may also be required.

Indoor balsam is characterized by rather rapid growth. The plant grows and loses its attractiveness after 2-3 years, so it is usually completely renewed periodically.

Reproduction of balsam

It is easiest to propagate room balsam with apical cuttings. This can be done at any time of the year. Cuttings, cut and rooted in spring, grow quickly and bloom in summer. A plant grown from cuttings rooted in autumn will delight you with winter flowering. The cuttings are cut 6-7 cm long, the lower leaves are removed. The survival rate of balsam cuttings is almost 100%, they take root very easily both in water and in the ground within 1-2 weeks.

Propagated by indoor balsam and seeds. Seeds are sown from January to April in a light earthen mixture, after soaking in warm water. The containers are covered with a transparent film or glass and exposed to light. A sufficient amount of light is a prerequisite for the germination of balsam seeds. Ventilate the crops more often and monitor the soil moisture, preventing it from drying out. Shoots appear on average in 12-16 days.

In order to get a compact and fluffy bush, regularly pinch the tops of the shoots. Cut an adult plant every spring when transplanting to half the height. Brittle balsam stems break easily and may need supports.

Indoor balsam pests

At high temperatures and dry air, especially during the heating season, indoor balsam is often affected by spider mites.

The spider mite is a very small insect, sometimes it can only be seen through a magnifying glass. Signs of defeat by this pest are yellowing of the leaves, small yellowish spots and dots on inner surface sheet. A thin cobweb appears on the leaves and stems in the internodes. Treat the plant with a solution of laundry soap, wash it in the shower, and then spray it with Actellik or Fitoverm. The treatment is repeated several times.

Aphids are also dangerous for balsam. Small, up to 2 mm, light green winged insects settle in colonies on the underside of the leaf, on flowers and tops of shoots. Affected leaves and flowers are deformed, turn yellow and fall off. The methods of struggle are the same as with the defeat of the spider mite.

Very often indoor balsam is affected by the whitefly. White small insects are clearly visible to the naked eye, greenish larvae settle on the underside of the leaf, sucking out the juice and leaving a sticky coating on the leaves, on which black sooty fungus subsequently develops. Actellik, funanon, confidor are used for processing.

The whitefly is afraid of low temperatures - place the affected indoor balsam in a cooler room. To catch adult insects, you can use ordinary sticky fly traps.