Road trip to Altai. Gorny Altai on your own by car

At the end of May-beginning of June, on the eve of the opening tourist season, the Vipgeo team made a week-long voyage to Mountain Altai. We will share our observations with you to make it easier for you when you go on vacation.

Roads

If you are going to go to Gorny Altai on your own by car, then the road situation awaits you as follows:

1) from Novosibirsk the road will be good, this is essentially the same M-52 highway, to which the Chuisky tract belongs; the same applies to those who travel to Gorny Altai on their own from regions of Russia west of Novosibirsk;

2) from Barnaul essentially the same situation as from Novosibirsk;

3) from Kemerovo knowledgeable drivers they advise you to turn off at Belovo, drive to M-52 and then through Barnaul to Biysk.

From Novokuznetsk You can get to the Altai Mountains in two ways: To Lake Teletskoye through Tashtagol or to Biysk through Eltsovka, and then to the Chuisky tract. Both roads at the beginning of June 2016 leave much to be desired, and the road through Tashtagol is a complete disaster.

If you go through Tashtagol to Teletskoye Lake, then for 80 km you will see a gravel road and, according to the driver, subjectively it is worse than the road through Eltsovka. We returned along this road and caught a nail in the wheel on it - our most serious breakdown during the entire trip.

If you go from Novokuznetsk through Eltsovka to Biysk, then asphalt will be stable to the Altai Territory

Before Biysk, the situation gets better, and it’s completely good, and in some places it’s excellent, it will become when you get to Chui tract. First, four lanes of good asphalt are waiting for you, then two, but also of very good quality. It is felt that the authorities of the republic take care of their roads like no other in the neighboring regions, the road does not in the least prevent you from admiring the surrounding landscapes

Ascent to the Seminsky pass

Chuysky tract at the White Bom

Chuisky tract in the Chuiskaya steppe. Road to Kosh-Agach

If you are going to Aya or Chemal, then two branches from the Chuisky tract await you - Aisky and Chemalsky tracts. The road is also quite good.

Aisky tract

Chemal tract

The road will be of noticeably worse quality if you decide to visit the famous pass Katu-Yaryk, turning from the Chuysky tract in Aktash. Asphalt here is far from the entire length of the route.

Behind Ulagan and on the ascent to the pass, a harsh dirt road without fences will be waiting for you. Driving at night and in bad weather is not recommended.

Going down from Katu-Yaryk to the Chulyshman valley is recommended only for experienced drivers and in suitable vehicles. An ordinary car may go down without incident, but it will be very difficult for it to get back up.

There is also a road from Gorno-Altaisk to Lake Teletskoye. Worse than the Chuysky tract, but quite tolerable.

Important:

On all the roads of the Altai Mountains, be very careful about livestock, here they walk calmly and without fear in a businesslike manner along the highway, even in densely populated and noisy places;

In spite of good quality asphalt and metal fences, not very experienced drivers should be more careful on the passes of the Chuisky tract, especially on Chike-Taman;
Ascent to Chike-Taman

Also, the driver advises here to carefully monitor the temperature of the brakes, especially on the descent.

It should be remembered that when different weather and the roads will be very different even in the same place, and the weather here sometimes changes very quickly - it can rain abruptly, and sometimes you will have to drive through the fog (our driver had such experience);

Another nuance is the travel time; in late May-early June, the roads are almost empty, in the season the situation will most likely be different;

If you have a right-hand drive, be very careful with overtaking, especially on passes, it is very easy to miss an oncoming car;

Keep in mind that climbing passes as well as riding in highlands entail pressure changes that can affect the driver and passengers (hearing problems, drowsiness, etc.).

Petrol

First of all, if you are going to the Altai Mountains, we advise you to refuel in the Altai Territory, where the price is more comfortable. For example, near Biysk or in the city itself.

In the Altai Mountains, there are gas stations in almost every large village, although there are not so many such villages. Therefore, we advise you to top up the tank to full in Mayma after entering the region, especially if you have not refueled for a long time.

There are more gas stations up to the Seminsky Pass, then fewer, but to be left without gasoline, you need to be completely careless. We refueled mainly at Nika, gas stations of this network dominate in the Altai Mountains. Once refueled at Lukoil.

Important:

Sometimes you can come across very strange situations: suspiciously cheap gasoline or a decent difference in price at neighboring gas stations (for example, in Shebalin, the difference in price for 92 gasoline at different ends of the village differed by as much as 3 rubles!);

Empty gas stations are quite common, so it's best not to push your car to the extreme.

Gasoline prices fluctuate depending on the location of the gas station, but not much. The same Nika in Aktash 92 costs 35 rubles. per liter, literally 10 minutes from Aktash is already 34.90, and on the Chemalsky tract or near the village of Inya on Chuisky 34.50.

Gas station in Aktash

Refueling in front of Aktash

Refueling on the Chemalsky tract

Gas station near the village of Inya

traffic police

Perhaps we were lucky, but during the whole week of the trip we met the traffic police car only a couple of times - in Aktash and in Gorno-Altaisk. Maybe in the season there will be more of them, but we practically did not meet them.

ONE HUNDRED

There are service stations in almost every large village. We, thank God, did not have a chance to resort to their help in the Altai Mountains, but according to the driver, they work well and do not raise the price tag. Their mode of operation, however, most often is by no means round-the-clock, up to a maximum of 6-8 pm.

I leave for you a detailed route through Altai by car, which has developed after the fact.

1st day of the Altai route: departure from Tyumen to Novosibirsk

On the way we cross the Tyumen region: Yalutorovsk, Zavodoukovsk, Omutinsky district, Ishimsky district, Abatskoye; Omsk region: Tyukalinsk, Kalinovka, Omsk, Novosibirsk region. Overcame a distance of 1278 km, stopped for the night in Novosibirsk. The main thing is to survive the road to Omsk (especially Abatskoye, Ishim), after Omsk the road is excellent.

Day 2-3 of the route in Altai: departure from Novosibirsk to the territory of Altai

Stop for 2 nights near Maima village. Movement along the Chuisky tract. On the way we cross the Novosibirsk Region (Berdsk, Iskitim, Cherepanovo), Altai Territory (Talmenka, Biysk, Verkh-Katunskoye, Srostki, Beryozovka, Bystryanka).

The village of Srostki is known to many as the birthplace of the writer Vasily Shukshin, you can stop and see the house-museum of the writer, as well as the Church of the Great Martyr Catherine. Be sure to try the delicious pies at the market, which is located on the outskirts of the village.

We entered the territory of the Altai Republic. The weather did not allow us to set up tents, so we rented a summer house at the Gelion camp site (Maiminsky district). We made a stop for 2 nights, because there are a lot of interesting things nearby, namely, Devil's Finger Mountain, Patmos Island, Chemalskaya Hydroelectric Power Station, Lake Aya, the bridge over the Katun at the base " Turquoise Katun”, Taldin caves, Manzherok and Manzherok lake. We saw everything except the Taldinsky caves, they did not interest us very much.

Day 4 of the Altai route: ascent to the Seminsky pass

On the way to the pass we cross the village. Izvestkovy, p. Barangol, p. Ust-Sema, with. Kamlak, s. Cherga, p. Barlak, s. Myyuta, p. Shebalino, p. Kumalyr, p. Stomping.

After the pass we cross with. Tuekta, s. Karakol, p. Kurota, p. Shashikman, p. Ongudai. We stayed for the night in the Ongudaysky district in a picturesque place, at the AiL tour base (Ongudaysky district)

Day 5 of the Altai route: climbing the Chike-Taman pass, the Ilgumen threshold, the confluence of the Chuya and Katun rivers, the first snowy peaks Altai mountains

We went through the pass Chike Taman, on the way we crossed with. Ulita, p. Khabarovka. Ascent to the Chike-Taman pass 4 km.

Having descended from the pass to 680 km of the Chuisky tract, we turned left at the sign "cordon" (through it you can go down to the Ilgumen rapids). We passed through the gate and went down to the Ilgumen threshold, walked along the rocky shore, watched fishermen and rafting with the children. After the cordon we moved on, to see the confluence of the Chuya and Katun rivers (712 km of the Chuisky tract), and the Altai petroglyphs (723 km of the Chuisky tract). The confluence of the rivers is not always so obvious, apparently the color of the water largely depends on the weather.

After we passed Aktash, and further - moving towards Kurai, we saw the first snowy peaks of the Altai Mountains, swept across the Kurai steppe. It was possible to drive to the end along the Chuisky tract (to Tashanta), but we decided to turn around. Now I really regret it, because it is in this remaining hundred kilometers to the border with Mongolia that a stunning view of the North Chuisky Range opens up.

Having turned around, we reached the village of Ulagan, settled on the territory of the eco-tourist center "Nomad", where, finally, we pitched tents.

Day 6 of the Altai route: Ulagansky pass, Katu-Yaryk pass

Accommodation in the village of Ulagan was not planned by chance, from here it is not far from the road leading to the Katu-Yaryk pass. In order to get to the passes, you need to turn off the Chuysky tract in the village of Aktash at the sign for Ulagan. Rising to the Katu-Yaryk pass, we cross the Ulagansky pass - a sacred place where rites of worship of Altai are held, ritual ribbons are tied.

The ascent to the Katu-Yaryk pass is not for the faint of heart, it takes about 4 hours. You need to drive back from the pass in the same way as you arrived, or you can go down from the pass and find yourself immediately on the southern shore of Lake Teletskoye, but not all cars are capable of this. Be extremely careful and learn all the information about the descent from the pass by car!

Descending from the pass, we reached the village of Bely Bom (742 km of the Chuisky tract), which we noticed on the way to the Kurai steppe. A very picturesque place, we pitched tents on the banks of the river, on the territory of the Caravan Park base.

Day 7 of the Altai route: return to the Chemal region

From the village of Bely Bom we returned to the village of Chemal and settled at the tourist center "Pilot" (7 km from Chemal). The purpose of such a route through Altai is to see waterfalls nearby the next day.

Day 8 of the Altai route: Chech-Kysh and Beltyresk waterfalls

The Chech-Kysh waterfall is artificial, but no less beautiful than natural waterfalls. It is located not reaching the village of Elanda about 3 km. After visiting the Chech-Kysh waterfall, we headed towards the village of Kuyus to the Beltyryesk waterfall. The road to it took about 1.5 hours one way. The road is bad (and who wrote on the Internet that it is excellent?). Almost at the entrance to the waterfall, I had to transfer to a local in a cornfield, since you can’t go up to the waterfall by a regular car, or walk about 20-30 minutes on foot.

After inspecting the waterfall, we moved to Teletskoye Lake. We stopped for the night at the Yurtok camp site (2 km before reaching Teletskoye Lake, the village of Artybash). We arrived late at night, so we did not immediately moor at Teletskoye, since we planned to stay on the lake for 4-5 days, we wanted to choose a normal place for tents in the morning.

Day 9 of the Altai route: Lake Teletskoye, northern shore

In the morning we reached the northern shore of Lake Teletskoye, looked in detail at all the shores and bases with tent camps and settled in a tent camp on the territory of the Golden Lake base. The day was spent walking along the north coast.

Day 10 of the Altai route: climbing Mount Telan-Tuu

Ascent to Mount Telan-Tuu, which offers a view of the northern shore of Lake Teletskoye, the villages of Artybash and Iogach. Half a day of serene relaxation by the pool at the base, relaxed)

Day 11 of the Altai route: swim to the southern shore of Lake Teletskoye

We were on an excursion to the southern shore of Lake Teletskoye, including a tour of the waterfalls flowing into the lake. It's worth it, for sure!

Day 12 of the Altai route: Tretya Rechka

We walked to the Third River, which is located not far from our base, where we settled. Highly beautiful nature. In the evening we had a festive dinner to say goodbye to Altai.

13-14 day: road home!

Friends, ask questions about the route through the Altai Mountains, we will be happy to help!

The Siberian region is a real natural treasure, and the beautiful places of Altai occupy it special place. The land of mountains, river valleys and pristine lakes annually attracts tens of thousands of tourists from all over Russia, including those who prefer to travel by car on their own. And, if half a century ago it was not easy due to impassable roads and mountain passes, now modern routes lead to the most popular sights.

The Vipgeo portal offers its Top 5 best places in Altai, ideal for independent travel in the summer.

Pros and cons of independent rest in Altai

pros

• Opportunity to touch the pristine nature
• Most attractions are open to the public - rarely where you have to pay an entrance fee
• No restrictions - build the tour route the way you want, but taking into account the capabilities of your car
• The region has developed road network- on the main highway, Chuisky Trakt, excellent asphalt
• No problems with living even in remote areas

Minuses

• Unpredictable weather - sudden rain or frost can spoil all plans
• Some areas can only be reached by SUV
• luxury hotels with modern amenities almost none - very often accommodation in tourist centers and camping with a toilet "in the yard"
• Official holiday season lasts a little more than two months - from mid-June to the end of August
• Indigenous people outside of popular tourist destinations are not always friendly

teletskoye lake

The ratings, which list the most beautiful places in Altai, are regularly headed by Lake Teletskoye, and there is a reason for that. This alpine reservoir, located 436 meters above sea level, is a unique object that attracts most of the tourists who go on vacation to the region, regardless of the season.

But the largest influx of guests here, of course, is in the summer, when you can admire the purest surface of the lake, ride a ship or boats, or stay on the shore, renting a fishing rod and fishing all day long, hoping to catch a large taimen or burbot. However, it is not necessary to do outdoor activities- one contemplation of the local beauties is quite enough for tourists to be happy.

But swimming in Lake Teletskoye is a dubious occupation even for extreme sportsmen. Firstly, the area for such entertainment is strictly limited - somewhere there are specially protected natural areas, and somewhere too deep for swimming. Secondly, even by the middle of summer, the water temperature in the shallows very rarely exceeds +17 °C, and this is provided that the weather is clear and there is no strong wind. So, it is better to admire such a reservoir from the shore or from a boat.

And, of course, it is impossible to imagine Lake Teletskoye without its famous natural wonders, of which there are many. For example, tour groups can see several waterfalls, and Korbu waterfall can even be visited by paying for a ticket a small amount. Yes, and the Yailu pine, overgrown with legends, which fell due to washed out soils, but did not stop growing, is one of the places of worship these places.

There are several ways to get to Teletskoye Lake, but the most popular route for tourists is the route with a starting point from Biysk or Gorno-Altaisk through the village of Choya to the village of Artybash, located at the northern end of the reservoir.

To get to the south coast, you will have to buy a ferry ticket, or go overland with a descent from the Katu-Yaryk pass, and it will be the second object on our list.

Katu-Yaryk pass

If you are planning to choose Altai, the best places to stay here will not always be related to what Mother Nature has created, and the Katu-Yaryk pass will be just such a place. It's hard to believe, but three bulldozer workers created a serpentine road with nine turns over cliffs in two years. The pass was opened in 1989, and it became the only land route to the isolated Chulyshman valley.

Before the appearance of the road, people got here by water, or by dangerous mountain paths on horseback, and the prepared path became a salvation for local residents who from ancient times lived far from civilization. And for tourists, too, who use the pass as part of the route to the southern shore of Lake Teletskoye, which, in principle, is not easy to get to.

Speaking in the language of numbers, Katu-Yaryk has no analogues anywhere in the world. It was literally cut down in a mountain with a slope of 70 °, while the slope of the road does not exceed 10-15 ° on average. The total length of the pass is 3.5 km, and each stage ends with a sharp turn over the abyss. There are also special pockets here so that cars can pass - the main part of the road is designed for only one.

The height difference from the entrance to the top point is more than 800 meters, which is comparable to extreme tracks ski resorts, you just have to go by car. By the way, not every car is able to withstand both the ascent and the descent - you need good brakes and a fairly powerful engine, and there is nothing to do at all for “cars” with front-wheel drive. For such cars, towing services are provided daily.

It is not easy to get to the Katu-Yaryk pass, like all the beautiful places of Altai, it is far away not only from large settlements, but also from the main transport artery of the region - the Chuisky tract. You will have to travel not only on good asphalt from Biysk to the Seminsky Pass, but also on a dirt road starting behind the village of Aktash. After it, you need to keep the path to Ulagan, and from there - to the road to Balyktuyul and Chulyshman. The path is not close, but even a novice driver can orient himself according to the signs.

Having approached the turn to the pass, you can not even approach it - the view opens immediately, and it will not leave anyone indifferent. We can safely say that the view from the observation deck on the pass is one of the most beautiful and memorable in Altai.

Tavdinsky caves

The best places in Altai traditionally include the legendary Tavdinsky caves - unique karst formations dispersed in the region of the border of the republic with Altai Territory. Formally, each cave is located on the territory of the Turquoise Katun tourist complex, but most underground passages located in the neighboring region.

Like the most beautiful places in Altai, the caves have a rich history, overgrown with legends and all sorts of conjectures. It is known for certain that the first man settled here already in bronze age, and stone halls were used by him first as a dwelling, and then as workshops. At least, this is what archaeologists, who are still actively studying the area, say about it. Other historical fact is the residence here of the hermits of the Old Believers, the last of whom left only in the 19th century. There is information about the use of caves by red partisans in civil war.

Today, according to various sources, about 30 caves are open on the territory of the camp site, and not all of them have free access - in some places an adult simply cannot climb through. The largest of them is the Big Tavdinsky cave, it is also Maiden's Tears. The entrance to it is visible literally from the road - a huge mouth almost 20 meters high is hard to miss.

The total length of the passages of all caves exceeds 5 km, and the studied halls of Maiden's Tears are hardly 200 m. Almost all internal passages have at least one connecting corridor, due to which, unknowingly, you can get lost and get into an unpleasant situation. That is why a lighting system was developed inside, which allows you to descend to a decent depth and find a way out without any problems.

As for excursions, they are held throughout the season, since autumn their number has been sharply reduced. There are several routes, most often they cover not only the caves, but everything that is within walking distance from them. For example, many people recommend walking to the observation deck, or going downstream and taking pictures against the backdrop of the Tavdinsky Arch overgrown with bushes.

Getting to the Tavdinsky caves is easier than to any other Altai site. You need to go from Biysk along the Chuisky tract towards Srostok and Manzherok, after passing which you will have to turn onto the bridge leading to the Turquoise Katun SEZ, and access to the caves will be open already as part of a visit to the tourist complex.

damn finger

When asking: Altai, the best places to stay, you will almost certainly be recommended to visit the Devil's Finger - an interestingly shaped mountain located near Lake Aya. Despite its gloomy name, this object is considered to be perhaps the most visited place in its area, and the legends about its appearance are also interesting.

Indigenous people assure tourists that the one we call "devil" is legendary monster named Cherto, who from time immemorial plundered the Altai lands. Naturally, in the legends, he was defeated by the local hero, who trampled the cunning enemy with the hooves of his frisky horse, and only a finger, clamped in impotent anger, remained sticking out above the ground.

And indeed, many guests, rising to this attraction, often recall the legend with the words that only a hero can overcome such distances. However, it is forbidden to drive cars on only one side of the Devil's Finger, other entrances are open, however, it is better to have an SUV with high ground clearance so as not to get bogged down.

The best way to get to the mountain is from the village of Katun, keeping to the only, but the main landmark - the TV tower. At some campsites there will be signs indicating which way the Devil's Finger is, in extreme cases - you can always ask for directions from passing villagers or tourists like you.

Patmos Island

The beautiful places of Altai are not only lakes, rivers and caves, they are also islands, at least one island of Patmos on the Katun River is worth visiting even for those who did not plan to come here. A small piece of land, which can only be reached on foot via a suspension bridge, is interesting to everyone - both for its history and for the views that open up while walking along its main attraction.

And there is only one here - this is the temple of the Apostle John the Theologian, built in 2001 with the money of private patron Viktor Pavlov, an ordinary Moscow photojournalist who sold his apartment in order to rebuild the shrine destroyed in the 30s. Now the church has been transferred to the nunnery, but there are only time restrictions on visits - both men and women are equally welcome, both as guests and as pilgrims.

The easiest way to get to the island of Patmos is from the village of Chemal. Driving out to the side pine forest it is important not to miss the sign, after passing which, you will have to go back through the forest road. Turning where it should be, you will see a wide paved parking area- it is not guarded, but this is not necessary here, leave the car and go along the bridge to the island.

You will get a lot of impressions already on the bridge, which staggers under your feet at a height of about 20 meters above the seething Katun. On the islet itself, in addition to the church, you can see the image of the Mother of God carved into the rock and the original icon in the niche of the rock on the plot of the adoration of the Magi to the baby Jesus.

In addition, unforgettable views of the Katun and its rocky shores await you both from the island and from the suspension bridge.

Those who wish can walk from here along the "goat path" to another popular local attraction - the Chemal hydroelectric power station and the confluence of the Chemal River into the Katun.

Continuation of stories about the best places Altai for independent travel will be next time. In order not to miss it, subscribe to our

I love nature Fresh air and long walks. Having traveled half the world, I caught myself thinking that I spent too little time on my native country, so I decided to explore every corner of it. I heard a lot about the Altai Mountains: that this is a place of stunning beauty, a land of untouched nature, snowy peaks and mountain lakes, where people go for adrenaline and active recreation. And also mystery stories about shamans and Altai spirits. Conducting most years in the Moscow office, I decided that a small reboot and a “digital detox” would not be superfluous, I packed up and went to Altai.

Our trip was organized by the tourist club"Wanderer" , with whom I went to Kamchatka and Iceland, so I had no doubts about their reliability.

Budget

The average price of a two-week hiking trip is 25,000-30,000 rubles. When choosing, pay attention to whether transfers, food and public equipment are included (all this was included in our price). We chose a two-week combo tour, which, in addition to hiking around the Multinskie lakes, included horseback riding and three days of rafting on the Katun River.

I invited a German friend for the trip, who was so inspired by my stories about Kamchatka that he asked me to take him with me next time. Everything he heard about Siberia was from the series "it's cold there and snow is everywhere." Imagine his surprise when we advised him to bring bathing accessories! In two weeks, his idea of ​​Russia and the Russian people has changed a lot, and he simply fell in love with Gorny Altai. As we are.

Altai forest

How to get there

The starting point of all hikes in the Altai Mountains is consideredGorno-Altaisk . You can get to it in several ways:

From Moscow

S7, Aeroflot, Ural Airlines, UTair have direct flights to Gorno-Altaisk. In season they fly at least once a day. It is better to buy tickets in advance, as well as keep track of airline promotions. Good price- 13,000-14,000 rubles in both directions, but if you fly with transfers, you can grab it cheaper. Flight duration - 4-4.5 hours.

From Saint-Petersburg

There are no direct flights, the transfer will be in Moscow, and the tickets themselves will cost more. It is better to get to Moscow by train, from where you can already fly away.

By plane to Barnaul + transfer to Gorno-Altaisk

The most popular option among tourists. There are much more flights to Barnaul, tickets cost from 5000 rubles.

Regular buses run from Barnaul to Gorno-Altaisk, tickets cost from 600 rubles one way. Drive about three hours. You can take advantage of the popular in the region BlaBlaCar : there are many offers, the average price is 400-500 rubles.

View from Kuiguk waterfall

By plane to Novosibirsk + transfer/flight to Gorno-Altaisk

The most budget option, but time-consuming. Flights from almost any city in Russia fly to Novosibirsk from 8,000 rubles in both directions. Pobeda often teases with tickets from 1,500 rubles one way from Moscow. From here begins the famous Chuysky tract, which stretches to the border with Mongolia.

From Novosibirsk you can fly to Gorno-Altaisk"KrasAvia" for 3000 rubles or take a bus for 1200 rubles. The flight takes 1.5 hours, but there are few flights: only four per week. Buses run more frequently, but travel time is about eight hours. From Novosibirsk, you can also take a bus to Chemal (95 km from Gorno-Altaisk) - the most developed tourist place in Altai.

By train from Moscow to Biysk + transfer to Gorno-Altaisk

There are no railways in Altai, you can get to Biysk (from Moscow, travel time is about 2.5 days) for 4,000 rubles in a reserved seat or 10,000 for a compartment, from where you will have to pave the way by bus or car according to the schemes above. The option is more for train lovers and romantics who are not in a hurry.

Which option to choose

Everyone decides for himself - to make several transplants or without unnecessary problems, paying extra, immediately fly to the place. The first option is supported by the fact that a trip to Altai can be combined with visits to Siberian cities, among which there is Paris (the village of Charyshskoye, a former Parisian commune, 310 km from Barnaul), Warsaw (a village in the Zmeinogorsky district, 340 km from Barnaul), Babylon (village in Aleisky district, 120 km from Barnaul), Orleans (village in Blagoveshchensky district, 300 km from Barnaul) and Kanna (village in Tabunsky district, 370 km from Barnaul). In this case good option movement will become a rented car. You can rent a car in Barnaul or Gorno-Altaisk (less choice). There are no problems with gas stations, gasoline from 45 rubles per liter. A day costs from 2000 rubles, you will need to leave a deposit of 5000 rubles.

Accommodation

You can live in Altai at recreation centers, in guest houses or tents. The bases are concentrated in the most touristic places:

• along the Katun River ( - double room from 1499 rubles/night);
• in the Chemala area (guest house - double room from 4999 rubles/night);
• on the ( - double room from 11,990 rubles/night);
• on the way y(base - double room from 4999 rubles/night).

You need to book places two to three months in advance, as the bases are overcrowded during the high season. In non-tourist places, there are also cottages, but the amenities there are rustic, and there are not so many houses. Bath will cost 400-600 rubles. in an hour.

Tents can theoretically be set up anywhere, but for safety reasons, get up at special parking lots (there are places for a fire, firewood and rustic toilet), in the territories of camp sites (from 100 rubles per person), or not far from villages and roads near fresh water streams.

The day before the rafting

When we were rafting down the Katun, one night we landed on a completely wild beach, where there was nothing but thickets and birches: we had to boil muddy water from the river (we drank it with eyes closed), examine the bushes for snakes and other undead, and once again double-check before going to bed whether the tent is well fastened.

Food

If you go on a hike, then meals are organized: they are bought for the route in supermarkets, food is cooked on a fire. Usually these are cereals, cereals, pasta with stew and sandwiches with marrow caviar. The diet also includes snacks: snickers, nuts, dried fruits and cookies. Once we even cooked borscht and made scrambled eggs for breakfast, but it was a gourmet whim. Camping food is simple, but no less tasty. You can pick up all sorts of delicacies, but you carry everything on yourself, so you should think about whether extra pounds are needed in backpacks.

Delicacies on the go

If you buy yourself, then this should be done before the route: there are no shops along the way, only forest gifts. Choose non-perishable foods, replace bread with crackers and crispbread, water is not needed, as it can be drunk from streams. Near large tourist spots, such as Chemal, there are many cafes and stalls where you can dine for 200-300 rubles. Many camp sites serve breakfasts from 200 rubles.

When is the best time to go

The best time to visit Gorny Altai is from May to September. The weather is generally changeable and depends on the area. In May, it rains and there are often thunderstorms, but this is overshadowed by flowering meadows, which are not inferior in beauty to Swiss ones. In the mountainous regions, the rivers are just getting rid of ice, the currents are getting stronger - fans of extreme rafting should enjoy such a dynamic attraction.

For those who do not like crowds of tourists and the heat, it is better to go to Altai in June, when it is already warm, but not very stuffy (on average +20° С, in the mountains +10 ° С ). In July, there are more people, the weather is hot and dry (up to +30°C ), you can safely swim and sunbathe, but prices soar during this period. The first half of August is similar to July, then the heat subsides, the tourist flow drops, and it is cooler at night.

Autumn in Altai is colorful, but unpredictable: it can rain for several days in a row, then the sun will appear, and the next day it will snow. September is suitable for lovers of hiking and tracks, but it is no longer comfortable to spend the night in tents this month, it is better to choose camp sites and stock up on warm clothes.

Noise Cascade

Preparing for a hike

The best option is to go with a tourist club: no need to worry about organizational issues, you can always ask for advice about equipment and rent equipment. The instructors also know which rock is better to climb in order to catch a connection: MTS and Beeline are occasionally caught on the routes, it’s better to forget about the Internet. After a couple of days, you stop “breaking” due to the lack of communication with the outside world, you will plunge headlong into the local beauty and notice every pebble under your feet: nothing distracts you and you can truly enjoy nature.

If you go hiking on your own, it is better to get a GPS navigator, tracks with coordinates (search on the Internet) and cards terrain. Leave details about yourself and the route in the local department of the Ministry of Emergency Situations, and also write down their phone number so that in case of problems you can contact them. True, strong savings when planning an independent trip will not work, and you will have to solve twice as many questions. An organized group is also supported by the fact that the company is often selected with similar interests, guides turn out to be fascinating personalities, and evening gatherings around the fire drag on until the morning.

GAZ-66. Before the trip to Kuyguk

Do not forget to get cash (on the basis of one day - 300 rubles), as there are few ATMs, and you can pay by card when staying only in expensive hotels.

Equipment

To equipment list includes:

• backpack for 60-70 liters;
• sleeping bag (comfort temperature -10° C);
• tourist rug (placed on the ground under the sleeping bag);
• a set of sleeping clothes and running gear;
• thermal underwear;
• fleece jacket;
• waterproof jacket and pants with a membrane;
• trekking boots (broken in!) and poles;
• headlamp and knife;
• KLMN (mug, spoon, bowl, knife);
• raincoat, backpack cover and personal first aid kit.

Those who are going for rafting will need thermal bags for documents and equipment. AT summer period sunscreen, mosquito repellent and flip flops will not be superfluous, and in rainy season- leggings. Public equipment is also added to personal belongings: tents, bowlers, an ax, an awning, a gas burner and food packages, which are distributed among all participants before the start of the trip.

I had a power bank with me, but it was not useful, since the phone was in airplane mode or completely turned off, therefore it did not run out of power. On the route, there are sockets only in the houses of rangers: they charge a symbolic 100 rubles for charging.

Passes

Gorny Altai is located in the border zone with China, Mongolia and Kazakhstan, so before the trip everyone foreign citizens(including Belarusians and Ukrainians) need to obtain a special permit. Documents (personal information and information about the route) are submitted to the border department of the FSB of Russia in the Altai Republic at least two and a half months before the trip. The pass is made for 30-60 days, you need to come for it personally, if you do everything on your own, and not through the tourist club. Our German friend was lucky: a pass was made for him and taken away by our instructors. It is interesting that no one asked him for the whole time of the campaign.

Admission to the zone of the Katunsky Reserve is issued to everyone, even Russians. It is prescribed in the central estate of the Katunsky Reserve in the village of Ust-Koksa or directly on the road to the Upper Multinsky Lake. An adult ticket costs 150 rubles, a child ticket costs 75 rubles. Opening hours can be found at reserve website.

Vaccinations

Another part of preparing for a trip to Altai is vaccination against tick-borne encephalitis. On the territory of the region live ticks, carriers of the virus, which are activated just in the hiking season - from April to September.

It is necessary to be vaccinated in three stages, the course lasts a year: the second vaccination is done two to three months after the first, the third - after another nine months. From this point of view, a trip to Altai cannot be spontaneous. Doctors promise good protection already two weeks after the second vaccination, but it is advised not to forget about the third. Such a vaccination will cost about 1000-2000 rubles, it is done in almost all district clinics and hospitals (they will vaccinate residents for free).endemic areas) . Those who just realized it can get an emergency vaccination a month before the trip. It will cost more, but they do not save on health.

Alpine landscapes of Altai

We did not have time to get vaccinated, but even in this case, you can protect yourself. Need clothes with long sleeves and completely covering the legs, all things should be treated with special aerosols from ticks, and also do not forget about daily inspections. Good insurance in case of a bite will also come in handy.

Routes

There are dozens of routes in Altai that you can go alone and with a guide. These are calm tracks along the lakes, and extreme rafting, and climbing. Part of the natural objects is accessible for cars, but somewhere you can only walk or ride a horse.

Multinsky lakes

Valley of Multinskie lakes entered the top ten the most beautiful places Russia according to the tourist portal Russia Travel . It is easy to get here, so there are many vacationers here. The most popular activities are horseback riding, fishing and trekking from lake to lake.

Middle Multinskoye Lake

The pedestrian part of the route starts in the village of Maralnik, the journey from Barnaul takes 12-13 hours. The road goes along the picturesque Chuisky tract, through the Seminsky Pass - it is asphalted, but cows and horses like to walk along the roadway.

You can stay in Maralnikat the camp site "Cedar edge" (a place in the houses - from 1000 rubles per night, for 250 rubles you can put up your own tent). Multinsky lakes are an hour away from the base, but the road there is washed out, an ordinary passenger car will not pass. Therefore, groups are thrown either on a GAZ-66 SUV or on horseback (both options are available at the camp site). Delivery by car costs 1000 rubles per person, by horse - 1200 rubles per person.

some adrenaline

It is only 15 km from Maralnik to the camp on the Lower Multinskoye Lake, but what an attraction it is! You climb into the back of the car and hang out there with backpacks throughout the trip, trying to grab onto something with your hands to sit on the bench, and with your feet to prevent the equipment from flying out. When the car is driving in the opposite direction, it is almost impossible to pass. If a car is stuck in the mud ahead, its SUV pushes it straight with its bumper. Sometimes a branch flies through the window: it's you passing a centimeter from the tree. And while you are worried about how to stay safe and sound, the driver can drive with one hand and light a cigarette with the other.

You can see all three lakes in two days, but it is better to spend at least one on each. From the Lower to the Middle about two hours on foot along the coast, you can also cross on a motor boat for 100 rubles (the pier is located on the northern shore of the Lower). There are several campsites on the Middle Multinskoye Lake, as well as an impressive place - the Shumy cascade. This is a pile of boulders in the river, a kind of crossing between lakes.

Noise Cascade

Upper Multinskoye Lake is located on the territory of the Katunsky Reserve (for which a pass is issued). The walk to the Middle Lake will take at least half a day (to go in one direction about 5 km): the path first passes through the forest, then through flowering alpine meadows, and the lake itself with clear water against the backdrop of snow-capped mountain ranges is striking in its beauty. By the way, those who wish to arrange a Multinsky Challenge - to swim in all three lakes - need to remember that the water does not warm up much even in summer. The warmest lake is Nizhnee Multinskoe (15-16°C), the coldest is Upper (8-10°C). In the Middle Lake, the temperature is about 11-13 ° C.

From Sredny Multinskoye they go on a radial to Transverse Lake (the track is about 3.5 km one way), and from Nizhny they walk on horseback to Lake Kuyguk (h ac - 400 rubles). Riding experience is not important, horses calmly follow the driver.

We were returning on horseback from Nizhny: our backpacks went to the base on a GAZ-66, and we ourselves went to look at Kuyguk. Altai mountain scenery We were captured, we were allowed to accelerate on the straight section, but when it was time to get off the horse after three hours, many could hardly stand on their feet. We did not take into account that a many-hour horseback ride in Altai is not a horseback ride in the park, it takes a lot of energy. The legs get tired more than when trekking, the knees hurt, you feel like an old man suffering from rheumatism. We departed from such a trip for a long time, but the bath helped to restore our strength.

Horse trip to Kuyguk

Multinsky adventures usually end with rafting down the Katun to Chemal. Most interesting place for beginners - a section of the Middle Katun. Certain preparation for the rafting is not required, it is enough to listen to the instructor. Such entertainment costs - from 7000 rubles per day. The price includes all equipment, and for multi-day hikes, meals and accommodation. If the rafting is not included in the original tour, to book its better in advance or try to fit already on place .

On the first day of rafting on the Middle Katun, we overcame the rapids with great interest. On the second day, the obstacles ended, we got bored, but not for long: pretending to be pirates, we began to board the neighboring rafts. On the way, they fired at each other with cones collected in the parking lots, waved oars to the kids on the shore, depicting a butterfly, and looked after the rocks from which you can jump into the water. As a result, the alloy turned into a game that brought us back to childhood.

To the foot of Belukha

Peculiarities of climbing Belukha(height - 4506 meters)- the most beautiful track along the Akkem trail, from where a stunning view of the mountains opens, as well as the very fact of conquering main summit Siberia. The route is difficultand requires some technical skills, but you do not need to be an advanced climber. Main condition- good physical training and certified instructor. average cost climbing for tourist clubs - 50,000-60,000 rubles (two-week trip with food and rental of climbing equipment). You can try to find a guide on the spot, but in most cases it will be the same commercial group that you just join.

The climate at the summit is harsh, even in summer the temperature can be below zero, so the list of equipment for climbing will differ from the usual one: you need to take a sleeping bag for an extreme temperature of -20°C , prepare gloves, a hat, a puff, climbing boots and carry all this along with equipment for the usual hike, since the path to the mountain is essentially trekking. Fit everything in one backpack -the task is not an easy one.