How to sprinkle a garden flower garden after spring frosts. How to protect garden plants from spring frosts

Garden plants are often damaged winter frosts and spring frosts.

Damage winter frosts more dangerous, as they can lead to the death of plants. Spring frosts mainly damage only flowers and ovaries.

With frequent repetition, spring frosts are the main reason for the lack of crops in the current year.

Decisive in preventing the freezing of plants is the choice of an appropriate place for their cultivation. The best places are gentle slopes, from which the cold air easily descends into the fields below. Worst of all are hollows and other depressions in the terrain in which cold air stagnates.

The owner of the garden plot, unfortunately, does not have the opportunity to choose an appropriate place for it. If it is unsuccessful and threatens with the formation of stagnation of cold air, then it remains only to select frost-resistant plant species and varieties for planting.

Choose frost-resistant varieties

From fruit trees, varieties such as Moscow Grushovka, Anis, Cinnamon striped, Antonovka ordinary, Welsey, Sharapai are most suitable.

Of the pears, relatively frost-resistant varieties are Tonkovetka, Bessemyanka, Autumn Bergamot. They can be planted in less favorable conditions.

What plants can be planted in cold places in the garden

From berry plants in such places, you can grow gooseberries and red currants, edible honeysuckle.

You can also plant raspberries. Its flexible annual shoots are easy to bend down along the row and sprinkle with earth to protect against winter frosts. On industrial plantations, this event is usually not carried out due to its laboriousness, on small garden plots it is easy to do. Raspberries should be protected from frost, if only because then it is already insensitive to spring frosts to the same extent as most early flowering garden plants, for example,. After all, raspberries bloom very late, just before fruiting, and its flowering stretches for almost the entire period.

In the absence of snow cover and with strong drops in temperature, strawberries and strawberries freeze out. To prevent freezing, these crops are covered with straw, straw manure or spruce branches in late autumn.

How to treat wounds on trees from temperature changes?

Very dangerous, especially for boles, sudden changes in temperature in the pre-spring period. At this time of the year, the sun warms during the day and the boles of large trees from the southern and southwestern sides are sharply reduced, causing damage to the delicate tissues of the "awakened" cambium. Then on southwest side boles appear characteristic wounds, called sunburns. To prevent this kind of damage, low-stem trees are planted and a low crown is formed, which slightly shades the stem, and thereby reduces its heating.

It is recommended to whitewash the trunk and ramifications of skeletal branches. White color reflects the sun's rays, which also reduces the heating of the bole tissues during the day and softens the difference between day and night temperatures. Usually freshly slaked lime is used for whitewashing. Some people add cow dung or clay to it to increase stickiness. This event is held at the end of November and repeated in January-March if the whitewash is washed off.

Trees with wounds from sunburn it can be helped if long cuttings are grafted so that they are above the wound and restore the supply of water and nutrients interrupted in this place. In the same way, wounds made by hares and mice are treated. .

Instead of cuttings, root suckers and even specially planted wilds can be used. After appropriate pruning, they are grafted, they are grafted "by the bark" over the wound.

During especially severe frosts, the trees crack. The strongly contracting outer layers of the tree do not withstand the pressure on them of the less contracting inner layers and are torn. This is accompanied by a sound resembling a gunshot. Such frost cracks are not considered dangerous. Lubrication with garden pitch will help the crack grow together.

Why are spring frosts dangerous?

At the end of winter and spring, garden plants end their dormant period, leaves, flowers begin to develop, and fruit ovaries form. At the same time, sensitivity to low temperatures increases. Even frost-resistant varieties that can withstand -40-degree frosts are sensitive to light frosts in spring during flowering.

Spring is characterized by very changeable weather. Frosts happen quite often. Early-flowering tree species are most sensitive to them - apricots, and other stone fruits.

Apple flowers and ovaries perish already at an air temperature of about - 4 degrees. However, this can happen at 0 ... - 2 deg.

Of the bushes, black currant reacts especially strongly to frosts, the vegetation of which begins earlier than that of the red currant. Frosts can also damage flower buds, leaves, fruit ovaries and even shoots. When damage occurs during the rosebud phase, it is not noticeable. The most dangerous damage will not.

Damage to the stigma and style, of course, if the frosts occurred after the pollination of the flower. Frost-damaged leaves become crinkled. And if the frost is long, they turn black and fall off.

Ways to deal with frost

Currently, there are mainly three methods of dealing with frost:

Fumigation (or smoke)
Heating
Wetting with water

All methods, unfortunately, cannot be called perfect.

Fumigation in practice can only be carried out by burning brushwood and similar materials. It is inefficient and laborious.

For heating on a site of more than 600 square meters, one and a half dozen fires must be kindled and maintained throughout the entire period of sub-zero temperatures.

To combat frost sprinkling is often used. This method is based on the use of heat released during the formation of ice during the freezing of water. Sprinkling, started immediately after the temperature drops to 0 degrees, must be continued continuously until the air temperature rises. Premature termination of sprinkling causes an immediate decrease in the temperature of the protected plants and the death of flowers and leaves.

When sprinkling, it is necessary to set the sprinkler with the lowest water consumption. Otherwise, this can lead to the formation of ice during prolonged freezing, weighting and breakage of trees and bushes. Water supply in the amount of 2.5 mm per hour provides effective protection of plants from frost, at which the air temperature drops even to -10 degrees.

Studies have shown that flowering can be delayed for several days. through autumn and early spring thorough treatment of the entire crown with lime solution.

It is effective to spray apple, pear, apricot and peach trees after the end of growth and before the start of laying fruit buds with potassium salt of naphthylacetic acid at a concentration of 0.25 -0.05%. Late-autumn (10-12 days before leaf fall) fodder top dressing of fruit plants with a 5% solution of urea is used, summer pruning of apricot trees according to the method of P.G. Shita.

Epin will help save young shoots from spring frosts. It protects plants well from frost stress. Dilute the ampoule with 5 liters of water and spray the foliage liberally. After the end of the frost, the procedure can be repeated.

PEOPLE TALK...

In the spring of 1999, after the April heat, the trees blossomed. And on the May holidays, a cold snap came with temperatures around zero, snow and frosty nights down to -5 degrees. Both flowers and leaves with buds died. However, not everyone. One gardener not only covered his trees and bushes with spunbond, but also hung them inside the crown on an ordinary 40-watt incandescent bulb, which he turned on at night. Surprisingly, this was enough to heat the crown.

Ways to save plants from them

Frosts in our country are such a common and frequent occurrence that protecting plants from them is one of the most important activities for gardeners and gardeners. And, alas, frosts bring us a lot of trouble, because they happen here in the Urals both in May and in June (I think many people remember the frost on the night of June 17, which was observed several years ago). Frosts are not uncommon in late spring - early summer and in other regions.

In addition, unfortunately, our summer is so short that, naturally, we have to sow and plant various crops long before mid-June, otherwise we will not get a harvest. Trees and shrubs do not "ask" us at all and bloom according to their own laws and rules. And as a result, they, and heat-loving plants in greenhouses and greenhouses, and cold-resistant in open ground Every year we are exposed to the devastating effects of low temperatures. Very often, frosts come when trees and shrubs are in bloom, potatoes are already pleasing to the eye with green tops, strawberries open flower buds, and tomatoes and cucumbers are already planted in greenhouses. In general, everything pleases the eye. And it is in our power to help plants to endure an unfavorable period.

True, today the arsenal of means and techniques used for this leaves much to be desired. Although, perhaps in the near future, everything will fundamentally change. The reason for this may be the fact that quite recently, scientists in the United States synthesized a substance that fish living in the Arctic and Antarctic secrete to protect themselves from the cold. Until recently, researchers have been unable to exact copy this unique natural antifreeze. And finally, a miracle came true: employees of the New York state university found the desired formula. In everyday life, the resulting chemical can be found in a lot of applications: for example, they can be sprayed on plants to protect them from frost. So, most likely, in the near future we will carry out spraying against frosts, as well as against pests and diseases.
Signs of an approaching frost, as a rule, are an increase atmospheric pressure, an intense drop in temperature in the evening, a cloudless sky and complete calm. During frost, the temperature on the soil surface drops below 0°C, while the air temperature at a height of 1-2 m may not always be negative.

The nature of the relief, soil moisture, its color, the presence or absence of vegetation, etc., have a great influence on the intensity and frequency of frosts. The most frost-prone, from this point of view, lowered landforms. In high places and in valleys big rivers, near water bodies, large settlements on the contrary, frosts are weaker and less frequent. In addition, the earlier spring comes, the earlier trees and shrubs bloom and the more likely they are to fall under the destructive effects of frost.

Protection of trees and shrubs

When expecting frost, it should be borne in mind that, in general, berry bushes are more susceptible to frost than trees, because. near the soil surface, the temperature is usually lower than at the level of the crowns. Therefore, with slight frosts, it also happens that the flowering gooseberry loses partially or completely its abundant harvest, and there are practically no apple trees. Moreover, currant and gooseberry ovaries are more sensitive to temperature drops than even open flowers.
Today, unfortunately, there are very few options for protecting trees and shrubs.

Let's talk about smoke
The most famous and widespread method of dealing with frost is smoking, which was used even before our era by the Romans to protect vineyards, as well as by the ancient inhabitants of Peru, saving their corn crops. In the classic version, the smoke pile consists of dry branches and straw, and is covered on top with a thick layer of moist material (for example, grass, moss, sawdust, turf, earth or peat), which enhances smoke. At the same time, on one side of the heap, a place is left for ignition. The pile itself should reach a width and height of up to 1 meter. Of course, several such piles should be prepared on the site. In this case, the smoke screen should evenly envelop the entire area. Smoke is best done closer to dawn and within two hours after sunrise until the air temperature rises above zero. When there is calm or light wind, the temperature from burning smoke heaps usually rises by only 0.8-1 ° C.
A slightly greater effect (up to 1-1.5 ° C) is achieved when using smoke bombs. However, with wind and in rugged terrain, smoke is absolutely ineffective.
And, to be honest, having suffered several times with the organization of this process, I abandoned it as ineffective. The main reason for the inefficiency of smoke in our conditions is that, on the one hand, we have wind, despite frosts, very often. And on the other hand, frosts in the Urals are such a frequent and regular occurrence that you can deal with the preparation of materials for smoke heaps throughout the season (there is not enough time for anything else).

artificial fog
And in America (naturally, in areas subject to frost), artificial protection of plants from low temperatures is also widely used in farms. The greatest effect is obtained from artificial fogging, for which appropriate installations are used. In our country, the role of such a mini-installation can be played by an ordinary sprayer, but its power is only enough to maintain fog in a small greenhouse, but nothing more.

Protection of shrubs and low trees(in our conditions, as a rule, cherries and plums)
So that the buds or already opened flowers on the bushes do not freeze, you can stick four large pegs around each of them and wrap this frame with a thick plastic wrap or, even better, a covering material. Covering material can also be thrown directly onto flowering shrubs and fairly low trees. In any case, after the construction of such a mini-shelter, it will be necessary to carefully strengthen the film or covering material with ropes, wrapping them around the structure and tying it well. Do not leave holes in the shelter at the top or bottom. From above, it is usually more convenient to throw the same film or covering material, and from below, either sprinkle with earth, or press down with stones, or, when sheltering small trees, tie at the bottom around the trunk.

Especially about the outflow of cold air
You should never build a solid hedge of shrubs at the foot of the slope on which the garden is laid out. Cold air, flowing down, will be delayed by it, and a frost-cutting hollow created by you yourself will appear, deadly in the spring for flowers and buds.

Plant protection in pots
Underground parts of plants in plastic, ceramic pots and seedling containers, which for some reason cannot be brought into the house in cold weather, will not die if the pots are packed in large containers (such as tanks) filled with straw or sawdust. It is better, of course, if these tanks are installed at the time of cold weather in the greenhouse, or at least tightly closed on all sides with covering material.

Protection of vegetable plants in the open field and strawberries
Hilling "with the head" and a straw blanket for potatoes. Frost on the soil is dangerous for many heat-loving plants. You can protect them by covering the soil around the plants with a thick layer of straw or hay. More the best option when an additional layer of film or covering material is applied on top (over straw, hay). This technique is especially convenient in relation to ordinary potatoes (it’s not for nothing that in the 18th century in northern regions Russian Empire the monks successfully grew the so-called "straw potatoes").

Although, in order to organize the protection of newly emerging seedlings of potatoes, you can simply spud it with earth “with your head”. And it is more effective to spud first, and then cover with a layer of hay. And then no frosts are terrible. In itself, hilling is a rather temporary measure, because almost the next day potato shoots will begin to “creep out” of the shelter together, and frosts are not limited to one night per season.

Protection of sufficiently cold-resistant crops
In this case, we are talking about sown (planted) in the open field back in April (early May), first of all, carrots and onions. Of course, carrots are a cold-resistant plant, but also to certain limits. And it will be bad to develop in very cold weather, and this will subsequently affect the crop. So it's not a sin to take care of her. And it’s not worth talking about the bow, because if it gets under frost, it has every chance to go into the arrow.
As for young and newly emerged carrot seedlings, you can’t imagine anything better than a thin covering material. You close it, and “the head doesn’t hurt” about frosts, watering (of course, you need to water, but much less often) and loosening.
And the onion planted on May 1-5 is enough to cover with a film until the shoots appear. It is better, despite the inevitable frosts, to plant onions in our conditions in such early dates, because it will be less adversely affected by the prolonged rains so frequent in August. In the case of frosts, which are almost annual at this time, the film will reliably protect the planted onions. After the emergence of seedlings, the film will have to be removed and be sure to replace it with a thick covering material. In this case, with frosts down to -5 ... -7 ° С, you don’t have to worry: nothing bad will happen to your onion. Yes, and from the ubiquitous onion fly, he will be securely covered.

Strawberry protection
First of all, in our conditions it is better not to allow the early start of strawberry vegetation, because a temperature drop to -1 ... -1.5 ° C can lead to the death of its flowers and ovaries. Therefore, there is no need to rush to process it. If frosts are likely already at the stage of formation of peduncles, then nothing can be done - urgent measures will have to be taken. The simplest thing is to throw covering material on the strawberry ridges. The only thing to remember is that pollination of flowering strawberry bushes under the covering material will not occur, so it should only be used for short-term frost protection.

How and with what to heat greenhouses and greenhouses?
It is a well-known fact today that the yield of vegetables in Russian greenhouses and greenhouses is two times less compared to Holland, Denmark and Finland, which have the most developed greenhouse economy in the world. There are several reasons for this state of affairs. This includes inefficient agricultural practices, the use of hybrids that are by no means the most promising, and the lack of a reliable soil heating system, and poor-quality films, etc. etc.

Separately about heating the soil
As for heating, in principle, there are three ways to heat protected ground - solar, technical and biological.

1. Solar - the most common and cheapest. But on cloudy and rainy days, the temperature under the film can be below the optimum limit. I'm not talking about night frosts. In other words, it is very difficult to manage only the solar heating option in the conditions of the Urals. You can, of course, turn on temporary additional heating during frosts, for example, using electric heaters. But this option is not very reliable. Firstly, it requires a constant presence on the site, which is not always possible. Secondly, there are also very unexpected frosts, which are not known in advance. Thirdly, heating with electrical appliances requires constant monitoring, which is also very problematic. Therefore, having used this option for several years, I was forced to abandon it.

2. Technical heating. Used in small greenhouses. In this case, furnace, gas or water heating. In our country, as a rule, in contrast to the West, in individual greenhouses, a variant of stove heating is practiced. In general, for technical heating due to stove heating, as one of the options for forming optimum temperature Greenhouses have their pros and cons. On the one hand, this makes it possible to win about a month by getting greens and an early white cabbage. On the other hand, this method of heating requires a constant presence on the site and almost also a constant heating of the stove, which will end up being quite expensive both in terms of used firewood and in terms of time spent. More effective, of course, are gas and water heating options.

3. Biological heating. It is based on decomposition organic materials, due to which heat is released in an amount that is sufficient for the entire growing season. In addition, the air in greenhouses is enriched carbon dioxide. Horse manure is considered a classic biofuel. Compared to horse manure, all other types of manure are colder and heavier, heat up more slowly, and their combustion temperature is lower. When using pig and cow manure, it is necessary to mix straw, sawdust, which ensures soil looseness. Leaves, crushed bark, hay, etc. mixed with manure are also suitable as biofuels. From my point of view, the best option is when fresh manure is mixed with sawdust and some kind of organic matter (I usually use leaves), although in Russia monks used only straw well shed with mullein to fill greenhouses.

Watering - not watering ...
Quite controversial is the issue of watering various crops during frosts. It can be unequivocally said that it is very dangerous to water heat-loving crops (especially melons) before frosts - they can survive frosts, but get sick, which is also not good.
As for other crops, with significant frosts (below -2 ° C), it is completely pointless to water the ground under the plants: on the contrary, it will only bring harm. But small-drop spraying in such cases is quite an effective, albeit troublesome, measure. For this, sprayers are used, which are usually used to combat pests and diseases. Sprayed at dawn, starting at four o'clock in the morning, and in low places - and early, thereby creating a fog effect. After 15 minutes, spraying is repeated - and so on until the temperature rises.
If the frosts are small (up to -2 ° C), then wet soil under cold-hardy crops can help them endure a cold night. The damage will be much less due to the evaporation of soil moisture during exposure to low temperatures. But other options are still more reliable, for example, the same covering material than experiments with water, when you don’t know exactly how much frost will “make you happy”.

After frost, in no case should you water frozen plants. warm water(as is sometimes recommended). Such a "treatment" can easily kill them. It is better to wrap the shoots with covering material: perhaps slow thawing will allow them to partially recover.

Svetlana Shlyakhtina

to see a brightly flowering plant in your greenhouse, you need to apply the secrets of breeding. Gardeners want to breed unusual flowers. The secrets of growing large groups of plants are similar. Each plant requires individual care. In this article, the authors tried to give a collection of tips in order to avoid diseases when cultivating an exotic flower. It should be determined to determine the correct measures to which family the desired plant belongs.

Planting care ... The biggest threat to the future garden is frost. Therefore, if in the evening the air temperature does not exceed 2 degrees Celsius, at night it is necessary to cover the seedlings with a film, mowed grass, burlap.

In general, the garden needs watering, loosening, weeding and top dressing. After planting, tomatoes are abundantly watered once a week, after which the aisles are loosened, first to a depth of 10-12 cm, then, as the roots grow, by 6-8 cm. 10 days after planting, the first top dressing is carried out: 10 grams of urea, 10 grams potassium chloride, 40 grams of superphosphate per bucket of water, if necessary, top dressing is repeated every 10 days.

With the beginning of the growth of lateral shoots in tomatoes, it is time to start the formation of plants. Shoots pinch off and form a bush in 1, 2 or 3 stems. Only early-maturing varieties do not need this, but they should be planted more often, placing them in a row after 20–25 cm. The fewer brushes left on the plant, the earlier you will harvest the first crop, the larger the first fruits will be, although the yield may decrease slightly.

To provide more effective feeding, fertilizers must be applied to a depth of at least 40-50 centimeters. The worst thing for grapes is the last spring frosts. According to the notes of amateurs and pros in terms of agriculture, frosts in the spring often occur about 3-4 days before the new moon, naturally on the day of the new moon itself and for a couple of days after. As for the full moon, frosts are not observed during this period.

There are several ways in which you can protect the bushes young grapes from frost.

It is necessary to cover the bushes with non-woven materials. This will help not only protect the grapes, but also the berries, thanks to this, will ripen earlier.

Low bushes can be covered with leaves, hay or straw.

Such a method as smoking is also widely used. We take sawdust, tops and put straw or dry leaves inside, then set fire to it. We place these smoking piles on the leeward side. However, do not forget about security measures. Be vigilant and extremely careful.

good in an efficient way there is just watering between the rows. Indeed, during the evaporation of water, the bushes are saved from frost.

It is not a secret or an innovation for anyone that the growing shoots of grapes must be tied up. It is extremely necessary to do this, since the shoots of young grapes are very tender and fragile. The tendrils grow much faster than the tip itself, so it is recommended to remove them periodically. Shoots should be tied with ribbons of material on the trellis.

Weak, not capable of intensive growth, shoots are best broken out, as they borrow the necessary nutrients. In the event that you observe that two or three shoots begin to develop from one eye, you need to leave one that is the strongest or one that already has

inflorescence.

There is one more point in the spring care of grapes - before flowering, it is necessary to pinch the tops of the shoots. However, not everyone does this.

Protecting the garden from frost

You can also plant raspberries. Its flexible annual shoots are easy to bend down along the row and sprinkle with earth to protect against winter frosts. On industrial plantations, this measure is usually not carried out due to its laboriousness; in small garden plots, it is easily doable. Raspberries should be protected from frost, if only because then they are already insensitive to spring frosts to the same extent as most early flowering garden plants, for example, black currants. After all, raspberries bloom very late, just before fruiting, and its flowering stretches for almost the entire period.

How to treat wounds on trees from temperature changes?

Very dangerous, especially for boles, are sudden changes in temperature in the pre-spring period. At this time of the year, the sun warms during the day and the boles of large trees from the southern and southwestern sides are sharply reduced, causing damage to the delicate tissues of the "awakened" cambium. Then characteristic wounds, called sunburns, appear on the southwestern side of the boles. To prevent this kind of damage, low-stem trees are planted and a low crown is formed, which slightly shades the stem, and thereby reduces its heating.

It is recommended to whitewash the trunk and ramifications of skeletal branches. White color reflects the sun's rays, reduces the heating of the bole tissues during the day and softens the difference between day and night temperatures. Usually freshly slaked lime is used for whitewashing. Some people add cow dung or clay to it to increase stickiness. This event is held at the end of November and repeated in January-March if the whitewash is washed off.

Trees with sunburn wounds can be helped by grafting long cuttings so that they are over the wound and restore the interrupted supply of water and nutrients in this place. In the same way, wounds made by hares and mice are treated.

Instead of cuttings, root suckers and even specially planted wilds can be used. After appropriate pruning, they are grafted, they are grafted "by the bark" over the wound.

Why are spring frosts dangerous?

Spring is characterized by very changeable weather. Frosts happen quite often. The most sensitive to them are early-flowering tree species - apricots. peaches and other stone fruits.

Of the bushes, black currant reacts especially strongly to frosts, the vegetation of which begins earlier than that of red currant. Frosts can also damage flower buds, leaves, fruit ovaries and even shoots. When damage occurs during the rosebud phase, it is not noticeable. The most dangerous damage will not.

Damage to the stigma and style, of course, if the frosts occurred after the pollination of the flower. Frost-damaged leaves become crinkled. And if the frost is long, they turn black and fall off.

Ways to deal with frost

Currently, there are mainly three methods of dealing with frost:

Fumigation (or smoke)
Heating
Wetting with water

All methods, unfortunately, cannot be called perfect.

Fumigation in practice can only be carried out by burning brushwood and similar materials. It is inefficient and laborious.

For heating on a site of more than 600 square meters, it is necessary to kindle a dozen and a half fires and maintain them throughout the entire period of sub-zero temperatures.

Sprinkler irrigation is often used to combat frost. This method is based on the use of heat released during the formation of ice during the freezing of water. Sprinkling, started immediately after the temperature drops to 0 degrees, must be continued continuously until the air temperature rises. Premature termination of sprinkling causes an immediate decrease in the temperature of the protected plants and the death of flowers and leaves.

Studies have found that flowering can be delayed for several days through the autumn and early spring thorough treatment of the entire crown with a solution of lime.

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nature calendar middle lane applied to horticulture

For horticultural crops practical value damage caused by winter frosts and late spring frosts. The roots of horticultural crops are more sensitive to frost than the aerial part, and the temperature minimum for the roots of pome and stone fruit crops is minus 12-14 °C.

During the dormant period, plant cells are much more resistant to low temperatures than during the growing season. The ability of plants to tolerate low temperatures develops in them after the completion of growth, maturation and hardening. For the hardening of perennial plants and the passage of the first phase, it is necessary for them to accumulate sufficient reserves of carbohydrates. Therefore, the more abundantly they are supplied with nutrients, the less damaged by frost. In this regard, all influences on wood that delay the deposition of reserve substances in it and the maturation of wood reduce cold resistance. These include: late application of nitrogen fertilizers, causing too much vegetative growth and preventing the shoot from completing growth in a timely manner, as well as damage to the leaf apparatus and excessive yields.

As a result of exposure to damaging winter factors in the garden, the following can be observed:

Partial or complete death of flower buds;

Freezing (to varying degrees) of annual growths, branches of different ages and trunk;

Damage to the bark on the stem and skeletal branches from sunburn and frostbites;

Breakage of branches due to icing and the accumulation of a large mass of wet snow;

Freezing or death of roots due to deep freezing of the soil (temperature below minus 16-18 ° C) in the absence of snow cover.

Severe disruption of plant life (with possible restoration of functions) or their complete death.

Consider situations in which the gardener can take an active part.

Trees should be taken care of immediately after planting, especially in autumn. In the first 2 years, it is better to insulate the near-trunk circle near the tree in late autumn (before the onset of stable severe cold weather) by mulching with cardboard, peat, sawdust, etc. materials.

On boles and thick branches of trees, as a result of low temperatures, frost holes can occur, leading to death and rupture of the bark. Frost breaks are observed, first of all, in cases of large fluctuations in air temperature, when warm sunny days alternate with cold nights. High-stem trees are more susceptible to frost cracks, and frost breaks are almost always located on the south and south-west side.

Therefore, the gardener must, before the onset of a dangerous period of cold weather, protect tree boles from sunlight. For this purpose, it is necessary to: install nets on boles or wrap them with nylon stockings (for young pome trees, this is also protection against damage by mice), and also whitewash with lime mortar of the following composition: for 10 liters of water - 2.5 kg of lime, 0.5 kg of copper sulfate, 0.1 kg of wood glue. You can use for this purpose a special paint brand BC-511 or "Protection".

It is advisable to resume the whitewashing of boles and skeletal branches in early spring (late March - early April), when recurrent cold weather is still possible (but not in early May, as inexperienced gardeners usually do).

To protect the trunk and skeletal branches from damage by severe frosts, hilling trees with snow will help. When hilling, it is necessary to do so in such a way as to keep under the crowns of trees (to protect the root system from frost) 15-20 cm layer of snow. And in the spring (in March), when the thaws come, the dense snow crust of the heaps must be destroyed with a pitchfork or the snow around the tree should be sprinkled with wood ash (you can use peat).

Tree bark wounds resulting from frost cracks should be treated as soon as possible.

The wound must be covered with garden pitch or a mixture of mullein and clay, and then wrapped with a dark film (it was noticed that even cuts when pruning trees form callus faster and heal if they are wrapped with a dark film).

A great danger to the garden is regularly repeated spring frosts, when the return of cold comes after the flower buds have opened. Apple buds die at a temperature of minus 2.8-3.9 °C, stamens and pistils of a blossoming flower - at minus 1.5-2.5 °C, young ovary - at minus 1 °C.

Flower buds usually bloom 1-5 days earlier than vegetative buds. The duration of flowering of fruit trees depends on weather conditions, but its sequence in the breeds is as follows: cherry plum, cherry, plum, pear, apple tree; in berry crops - gooseberries, red currants, black currants, strawberries, raspberries. This may also determine the probability of damage to plants by spring frosts.

When the sky is clear and the air is calm, radiation frosts occur, characterized by strong cooling as a result of radiation. Areas where cold air accumulates - low areas and hollows are more susceptible to such frosts. Here, the air temperature, as a rule, is 5-8 ° C lower than on a flat area. If the site is located on a slope, then a solid fence should not be made in the lower part of it in order to prevent stagnation of cold air.

The forecast of spring frosts can be made by monitoring the change in air temperature and the state of the atmosphere.

Grid chart for determining the probability of frost (the numbers on the vertical axis on the right indicate the probability in %)

The most effective method by which you can raise the air temperature by 4 ° C is small-drop sprinkling (continuously or at short intervals), since when the water freezes, heat is released, which protects the plant from death from frost. If spraying is not possible, placement along the perimeter of the crown will help. flowering trees containers filled to the top with water. If the water freezes during freezing, then the ice crust must be discarded and added to the water vessels.

In turf gardens, if there is a danger of frost, it is better to mow the grass shortly in order to reduce heat radiation.

Another method of combating frost is smoke, the action of which is based on the fact that the creation of a layer of smoke prevents heat from being dissipated by radiation. The success of the smoke will depend on the area covered by the smoke and the quality of the smoke itself. The material of the smoke heaps (brushwood, straw, manure, moss, etc.) should produce a lot of water vapor (so-called "white smoke"). To protect flowering plants from spring frosts, a plot of 600 m 2 needs about 8-10 smoke piles for 6-7 hours of burning. Smoke begins when the air temperature drops to 1 ° C by night, and ends 1.5-2 hours after sunrise.

If the plants after freezing are slightly frostbitten, then they should be sprayed with water after sunrise - they can recover.

On a strawberry plantation, sheltering plants with newspapers in 2 layers sewn into long (up to 10 m) strips can save from frost. The width of the strip is 83 cm, the strip is rolled up. Approximately 40 newspapers are consumed per 10 m of the ridge. You can also cover strawberry ridges with strips of old wallpaper.

Unusual advice. In order to delay flowering in the garden, some gardeners trample the snow under the canopy of trees and protect it from melting. This should not be done, since the aerial part of the tree when warm weather all the same, it will begin to develop due to the reserves in the branches, and the roots at this time will not yet begin to supply water and nutrients. All this will lead to depletion and weakening of plants. Another thing is if the gardener could cover the whole tree with snow. Then you can somewhat delay flowering and protect yourself from spring frosts.

Spring (they are also called return) frosts can cause irreparable damage to fruit crops, even more than long winter frosts. While plants are dormant, they are able to cope with prolonged low temperatures, but from sudden spring frosts, young shoots, leaves, buds, flowers, ovaries die.

plant sensitivity to sharp declines temperature directly depends on the stage of bud break - the stronger the buds have developed, the stronger the damage will be. For example, a blossoming bud dies about - 3.5 o C, -3 o C will be fatal for buds, a blossoming flower can no longer withstand - 2 o C, at the stage of completion of flowering, when the petals are already falling, -1.5 o can be fatal C, the ovary dies at -1 o C.

Frost-damaged flowers turn black in the middle; fruits will no longer develop from them. Rusty spots and thickenings appear on fruits damaged by spring frosts. If the ovary touched by frost does not die, then the fruits that develop from it are deformed, have a non-marketable appearance, although they are quite edible.

Raspberries and blackberries practically do not suffer from spring frosts, as they bloom relatively late. But such fruit trees and shrubs like black currant, gooseberry, red currant, cherry, apple, pear, plum, apricot are extremely sensitive to spring frosts.

Image source https://utahpests.usu.edu, http://ucanr.edu/blogs, https://ask.extension.org, https://www.flickr.com - JohnPaul Stainton