Why does the lemon tree not bear fruit? No fruit on lemon trees: How to make a lemon tree bear fruit? Soil, weather and diseases

Lemon has long been bred at home. Homemade lemon has gained such popularity because it looks beautiful, gives off a pleasant smell and can bear fruit. However, in order to properly grow a lemon at home and make it bear fruit, you need to properly care for it.

Homemade Lemon: Care
This plant loves diffused light. If it is not enough, the lemon will throw out few leaves and will have too sour fruits.
If you keep a lemon in the sun, it will get burned.
As for the autumn-winter period, at this time the lemon at home needs to be additionally illuminated.
It should be borne in mind that indoor citruses are conservatives; they do not like to move. Otherwise, they may "go bald" and stop growing.
Among other things, homemade lemon prefers moisture, it should be maintained. In summer, you need to regularly spray the plant and wipe its leaves with a damp sponge. In winter, in no case should you put citrus near the battery.
Watering homemade lemon should also be done in a dosed manner. In summer, you need to irrigate the plant abundantly in the evening 2-3 times in seven days, in winter - 1-2 times in the morning.
Caring for a homemade lemon consists not only in watering, but also in fertilizers. Fertilizers should be applied in moderate doses regularly immediately after watering.

If you properly care for a grafted homemade lemon, it will bear fruit to the delight of the owners.

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How to make a lemon in the room bear fruit

Making indoor lemons bear fruit

Lemon is characterized by significant polymorphism. Even with vegetative propagation, many forms appear that are different in biological and morphological characteristics. Of the varieties and clones cultivated in indoor conditions, Novogruzinsky, Villa Franca, Udarnik, Genoa, Lisbon should be mentioned.

The best variety for indoor cultivation is the Chinese dwarf Meyer lemon, the characteristic features of which are high yield, precocity, short stature, increased frost resistance and resistance to malsecco disease.

Meyer's lemon is a small, easy-to-shape plant with a round, compact crown and few thorns. Buds and flowers are collected in clusters. The fruits contain 2.8-3.5% sugar, about 4% citric acid and 40 mg% vitamin C.

The plant enters fruiting in the second or third year after planting in a permanent place. The fruits are round-oval, weighing 80-120 g, the flesh is light yellow, very juicy, with a large number of seeds.

Every year in early spring, after removing the shelters, all fatty shoots are removed, and all newly appearing shoots are cut into a ring on the trunk. In the spring of next year, the grown skeletal shoots are shortened by 10-15 cm.

In the future, current care is carried out: strongly elongated thin and weak shoots are shortened, diseased and broken branches are removed, branches that thicken the crown are cut out.

Due to the low winter hardiness, lemon is in most cases grown in protected ground.

As a rule, the first pruning is done when plants are planted in a permanent place. In the second and third year, you form a crown. This completes the formation of plants.

Due to the high intensity of lemon cultivation in greenhouses, plants require enhanced nutrition.

Up to the age of five, 10 kg of organic matter is applied per plant, from 10 to 20 years - 20-30 kg. The application of mineral fertilizers is also differentiated depending on the age of the plants and the condition of the plantations. Phosphorus and potash fertilizers are applied to the soil based on its agrochemical analysis.

The first application of nitrogen fertilizers is carried out after deep tillage, at the beginning of the growing season, before budding and flowering of plants, at the rate of 40% of the total dose.

Nitrogen application rates in a pure substance are differentiated depending on the age and condition of plants (1-3 years - 50-60 g per tree, 4-5 years - 80-100 g, 6-7 years - 150-200 g per tree) , and for full-grown ones, depending on the level of productivity (5-10 kg - 200 g, 11-15 kg-250 g, 16-20 kg-300 g, 21 kg and above - 450 g per tree).

What to do to make lemon fruit at home?

Most recently, on the pages of our website, we talked about how to grow a lemon tree at home from an ordinary seed. The article ended with information that such a lemon, called wild (as opposed to cultivated, varietal lemons), begins to bloom and bear fruit very late. Often this moment has to wait more than ten years.

But there is one way by which it is possible to force the wild to form fruits much faster, sometimes as early as five years after sowing the seed. This method has been known for a long time, and it is called grafting.

Vaccination: what is its essence?

Actually, if you were attentive in biology lessons in high school, it will be easy for you to understand the principle of any grafting on plants. First you need to understand that two " actors»: rootstock and scion.

Rootstock- this is always the plant on which the graft is made. In our particular case, the rootstock is a wild lemon, a seedling.

Scion- this is part of a varietal, already fruiting plant. By the word "part" we mean either a stalk or a separate eye (kidney).

The essence of any vaccination is to grow a stock with a scion. As a result, we will get a plant that has rootstock roots, but a scion crown. Accordingly, the new tree will bloom and bear fruit in the same way as did the cultivated plant from which the cuttings were taken for grafting. By grafting, we kind of deceive nature, forcing the seedling to bloom.

Let's arm ourselves with tools

For some reason, it is still widely believed among flower growers that vaccination is a very difficult task, if not difficult. In fact, with some training and skill, making a simple vaccination (and there are many ways to inoculate) is not so difficult. There would be a desire, but some inclination to experiments, to risk!

First, let's think about what to instill, and prepare the necessary tools. They are simple and accessible to anyone.

garden pruner. This tool is sold in many flower shops, especially in large garden centers. It is needed in order to cut cuttings for yourself, as well as cut branches of trees and bushes. If you rarely vaccinate, you can not buy a pruner, replacing it with an ordinary knife.

Grafting knife. Perhaps this is the main tool in the vaccination business. It is as important for a grower as a good scalpel is for a surgeon. Actually, the comparison is not accidental. The grafting knife must be as sharp as a scalpel! And, by the way, some flower growers use medical scalpels as a grafting knife. Grafting knives are always available at major garden centers.

Remember! You can't graft with a blunt knife! The fact is that only a razor-sharp knife can make a smooth cut of wood tissue without microscopic burrs.

Strapping material. In order to tightly tie the scion and stock, besides isolating the grafting site from the air, a strapping is needed. Now it is sold ready-made, in the form of a special tape, but most flower growers use the usual “improvised means”. As a strapping, they usually use electrical tape, plumbing "fum-tape", polyethylene cut into thin strips. There are times when a thick synthetic thread acts as a strapping.

garden var. It is also purchased in garden stores, used as a kind of putty, which is applied to the vaccination site.

Disinfectant solution and clean tissue. They wipe the place of vaccination, cuttings, as well as a grafting knife. It is convenient to use vodka or pure alcohol as a solution. It will need quite a bit.

Vaccination at home

There is evidence that people carried out the first vaccinations several millennia ago, in ancient China. Whether this is so is not for us to judge, but obvious fact is that gardeners have been grafting plants for centuries. During this time, vast experience has been accumulated, dozens of various ways vaccination. The lion's share of these methods is used in gardening, and not in home floriculture, and, of course, it is not necessary to know all of them.

As a rule, three types of vaccinations are used in indoor citrus growing:

- budding with an eye;
- cleft grafting;
- vaccination by copulation.

The first grafting method is used if only one scion bud is grafted onto a stock. Two the latest ways- when cuttings are grafted. The most common method is split grafting. Any florist can easily master it.

Now we will not describe these methods of inoculation in detail. Firstly, this would require a separate article, preferably supplemented by drawings. And secondly, such step by step instructions There is a lot of information on vaccinations on the Internet. To really learn how to graft, you need to read at least one such article, watch a video. And after that, you may not be vaccinated right away. You need to train your hand a little, “shoot” your eye, gain confidence.

We advise, after getting acquainted with the "theoretical literature", to try to graft on the cuttings of any trees. It doesn't matter if it's a garden dweller or forest tree. The main thing is that you train your hand: get even cuts, quickly apply a strapping, use a garden pitch.

Attention! In any grafting, the most important thing is to tightly connect the cambial layers of the scion and rootstock. Remember biology lessons! Cambium is a thin layer between the bark and the wood itself. It is in the cambium layer that the fusion of two different plants occurs.

Where can I get vaccination material?

Whether you will vaccinate yourself, or invite a skilled person for this, you will need cuttings or scion buds. It has already been said that they need to be taken from a fruiting lemon. Where to get it?

There may be several answers. Most often, varietal lemons growing with friends, relatives, and acquaintances are used as donors. Often the owner of such a lemon can be found on the Internet, talking on flower growing forums.

Interesting! Not everyone knows that cuttings of varietal citrus fruits, including lemons, can be sent by mail. How to do this is usually known to the owners of such plants. The stalk will survive a short trip without any problems, and will be suitable as a scion.

By the way, this fact opens up great opportunities for you! Using the Internet, you can find not just cuttings of a varietal lemon, but a plant of a certain variety. After all, there are a great many varieties of lemons!

When can I vaccinate a lemon seedling?

Distracted by the conversation about vaccinations, we somehow forgot about our seedling, about the rootstock. And missed one simple but important point: when can it be vaccinated?

And here the answer is ambiguous. Most sources recommend re-vaccinating a wildling in the third or fourth year of its life. As a rule, by this time the diameter of the stem is already comparable to the thickness of a pencil - the most convenient "grafting" size.

But there are cases when the vaccination is carried out earlier, in the second year of the seedling's life, or even in the first! True, at this age, the trunk of a lemon grown at home is no thicker than a match, and only an experienced person is able to make such an inoculation. But it can be done!

Lemon care after vaccination

Be that as it may, but your lemon underwent an “operation”, turning from a rootless wild animal into an elite varietal plant. At first, he, like a person in a hospital, requires special care, certain resuscitation actions. They are not difficult, but it is important to follow them.

1. Build a kind of greenhouse for a tree by covering it plastic bag or cut PET bottle. This is necessary so that the scion, while it has not yet grown to the stock, does not lose moisture in dry air.

2. Water the soil in a pot moderately, but less than usual. Indeed, at first, the roots almost do not need moisture - the former crown is cut off, and the new one has not yet developed.

3. See that the room is not cold, but not very hot either. Shade the lemon from bright sunlight.

4. From time to time open your greenhouse for a while, allowing fresh air to enter.

The period of resuscitation can be considered completed only when the buds begin to wake up on the grafted cutting, and it begins to grow. From now on, care for the lemon in the same way as you did before. But now - remember - a crown of a completely different, varietal plant develops on the roots of your seedling!

Is it just vaccination?

Surely many who read this text have a question: “Is grafting the only way to make a wild lemon bear fruit?” If we are talking about a plant aged 4 - 5 years, then the only one. But it also happens that a wild animal has been living in your house for many years, inherited, for example, from parents or grandmother.

If the seedling has reached the age of 10, it has a chance to bloom and set fruit. He just needs your help to do this. There are a number of special activities that can speed up the fruiting of a homemade lemon. The main ones are the following:

Cool wintering. A very important moment for laying flower buds! A lemon should spend the winter at temperatures close to +10 ° C, and if it is large, aged, then even at 5 ° C. The more you "scare" the lemon low temperatures, the more chances for spring flowering. Just don't overdo it!

Proper pruning. Often old lemons look like long rods: one trunk and almost no side branches. But the nature of the lemon is such that flowers appear only on branches of the fourth order. Form a lemon with the correct pruning, achieve a branched crown; it is quite possible that you will be successful!

proper care. A large lemon should grow in an appropriately sized tub filled with nutrient mixture. A dense, leafy crown will tell about well-being in nutrition. Citrus leaves should be fresh, look healthy, juicy. Flowering is possible only in the presence of a large number of leaves.

Organization of good lighting. A lemon will not bloom if it does not receive enough light, preferably natural, sunny. Put it in a place where most year there is no deep shadow.

Grafting on one of the branches of a seedling of a varietal cutting. The appearance of a fruit-bearing varietal branch in the crown, as it were, whips up the rest of the crown to bloom.

And, since we are back to the question of vaccinations, think about such an experiment as creating a tree-garden! After all, if you have a large, perennial wild game with a spreading crown, you can graft not one, but several varieties of lemons on its branches! And you can do even more interesting and plant an orange, tangerine, kinkan and citron in the crown! After all, fortunately, all representatives of the genus of citrus fruits are perfectly grafted onto each other!

Agree, it's incredibly tempting creative idea! We may tell you about it a little later. Check out our website to find out something new and interesting!

Yes, by the way, if you decide to create a tree garden, leave one “original” sprig of wild in the crown. When it blooms, it will probably be tied with delicious lemons, unlike any other variety in the world! After all, citrus fruits are easily pollinated, and your stone, perhaps, carried a completely unique set of qualities. However, if the lemons on the wild turn out to be small and tasteless (and it will most likely be so) - it doesn’t matter either! Did we start this whole story for food?

Gardeners who grow lemon at home want to see not only a beautiful plant with bright green leaves, but also the fruit itself. To obtain fruits, lemon trees are grafted. To work, you need elementary plant cultivation skills and an affordable tool. Before grafting a lemon at home, you need to purchase a graft twig cut from a varietal fruit-bearing lemon.

Benefits of Lemon Tree Grafting

All cultivars of citrus trees are breeding hybrids. Store-bought lemon seeds grow well indoors. A few years later, a tree with a developed root system, branches and beautiful foliage rises in a pot.

At home, you can grow a lemon tree without much effort.

The tree begins to bear fruit after 8-12 years. It grows small lemons with low taste. Plants grown from seeds of hybrids do not retain the properties of the parent variety.

On a lemon grown from a seed, twigs of varietal plants are grafted so that it bears fruit 1 or 2 years after grafting. This method of reproduction is called vegetative. On one tree, you can make 2-3 vaccinations from different varieties.

Reference. Grafting allows you to get a crop of fruits that preserve all taste qualities maternal variety.

Features and conditions of vaccination

Between the bast and the wood is a thin layer of active cells - the cambium. In order for the vaccine to take root, you need to combine the cambium in the scion and rootstock. It is not enough to simply align the eye or stalk along the edge of the bark. The thickness of the fabrics may vary, and the combination will not occur. It is necessary to insert the eye (stalk) so that the layers of the cambium are in contact.

As a stock, strong citrus trees grown from a stone are chosen so that there are fruits; a lemon scion can be rooted not only on a lemon. Young grapefruit, kumquat, pamelo, orange are suitable as a base.

Lemon can be grafted onto some citrus trees (grapefruit, pamelo, orange).

You can graft a lemon on a tangerine tree. But on this citrus, vaccinations are hard to take root, since mandarin cuts are delayed for a long time.

The thickness of the trunk of a rootstock tree must be at least 6 mm. The thickness of the branch intended for grafting is 5-7 mm.

Reference. A graft is a bud or stalk of a one- or two-year-old shoot of a varietal fruit-bearing lemon.

The graft is engrafted immediately after cutting. If it is not possible to graft the material immediately, it is wrapped in a wet cotton cloth, placed in a plastic bag and placed in the lower compartment of the refrigerator.

Lemon grafting methods at home

Properly grafting a lemon is not difficult, you just need to follow the recommendations of experienced gardeners.

There are three effective methods propagation of fruit-bearing citrus plants at home:

  • budding - grafting with a kidney ("eye") in a T-shaped incision or in the butt;
  • copulation - grafting with a cutting into a split and butt;
  • growing cuttings in the ground.
  • Tools and Timing of Lemon Grafting

    Vaccinations require preparation.

    For work, you will need to prepare electrical tape, a bag or a glass container, garden pitch.

    To work, you will need the following tool:

    • budding and grafting knives;
    • garden pruner;
    • grafting pruner;
    • special fastening tape or electrical tape;
    • large glass container or plastic bag;
    • a piece of cotton fabric;
    • garden var.

    The budding and grafting knives must be sharp, the blade is sharpened on both sides. If this special tool is not available, a surgical scalpel, a thin-bladed penknife, and even a paper knife can be used.

    Garden pruner allows you to get even cuts. It does not crush delicate wood and causes minimal injury. If this tool has been previously used in the garden, the cutting blades should be sharpened in the workshop.

    To connect a cutting and a scion of the same diameter, instead of a regular pruner, it is better to use a special grafting pruner. Three cutting nozzles (knives) are attached to the tool: U, V, and omega-shaped. With their help, the most even cuts of wood are made, which are ideally suited to each other in shape.

    The cutting elements of the nozzles do not crush the wood, which is very important for the survival of the scion. You need to cut perpendicular to the branch.

    The timing of vaccinations is determined by the time of year. In winter, lemons are not grafted. This can only be done in spring and summer (from April to August), when water circulates in the root system and the ground part of the trees.

    For grafting a lemon, it is better to use a special grafting pruner.

    Budding - how to plant a lemon with a kidney ("eye")

    Budding is carried out in two ways - in the butt and in a T-shaped incision in the cortex. An “eye” or bud is the place where the leaf petiole meets the stem, where a new bud is formed. Before starting work, the rootstock trunk is cleaned of husks, dust, wiped with a clean damp cloth.

    Inoculation of the kidney in the butt is carried out as follows:

  • On the rootstock trunk, at a height of 6-7 cm from the soil surface, a cut is made (an oval hole). The cut is made by moving the knife from top to bottom.
  • From a branch of a fruiting lemon, a section with a leaf and a kidney is cut out. The leaf is cut off, leaving its petiole.
  • A scion is cut out of this branch, in shape replicating the shape of a cut on a rootstock tree. The cut is made long (longer than necessary). You can not touch the cut points with your hands, but you can hold the scion by the leaf petioles.
  • With a knife, the cross-sectional shape of the scion and rootstock is adjusted so that they are as compatible as possible. The length of the graft is 2.5 cm.
  • The scion is tied with a ribbon, leaving the kidney open. The fastening must be solid and tight.
  • The tree is covered with a bag and tied under the grafting site. High humidity and optimal temperature are created inside the bag.
  • Reference. The cambium should be exposed and these layers should be compatible on the rootstock and bud.

    After vaccination, the tree should be covered with a bag.

    The petiole of the leaf can be broken off immediately, but this is dangerous. A green bud without a cutting is very vulnerable. This is best done after the vaccine has taken root.

    Grafting into a T-shaped incision is done in a similar way, but the bark presses the “eyelet” from above, this makes the connection more dense:

  • A horizontal cut (1 cm) is made on the bark of the scion with a sharp knife, and a vertical cut (2.5 cm) is made under it.
  • In depth, the incision should cross the bark, bast and cambium.
  • A branch with a bud is cut from a fruiting lemon, a piece of the desired shape and size is cut out of it.
  • The graft is inserted into the incision with the cambium layers aligned.
  • The inoculation is bandaged with a tape, leaving the kidney open.
  • The grafted stock is covered with a bag and tied at the bottom.
  • Grafting a lemon with a cutting (copulation)

    Grafting with a cutting (a branch of a fruit-bearing tree) is considered a simpler way of vegetative propagation of plants. Cuttings are grafted into the split of a "wild" lemon or rooted in fertile soil.

    Grafting into a split is done in the following order:

    Grafting a lemon sprig into a split is the easiest way.

    The trunk of the rootstock is cut with a pruner and split with a sharp knife. The splitting depth is 1.5-2 cm. The knife is moved carefully, shaking slightly to reduce pressure and not break the branch.

  • On the scion handle, a wedge is cut at an acute angle. Wedge length - 2 cm.
  • The graft is inserted into the cleft (so that the wedge enters easily, the cleft is expanded, helping with the blade). The wedge should almost completely enter the crack).
  • The coincidence of the layers of the cambium is determined, if necessary, the position of the scion is corrected.
  • The junction of the branches is tied with a grafting tape.
  • 2-3 buds are left on the grafted cutting, the rest (the upper part of the branch) is cut off. The cut is covered with garden pitch.
  • The tree is covered with a voluminous plastic bag and tied around the trunk.
  • The package is removed when the vaccine takes root and the first shoots appear. The package is not removed immediately, but over several days, leaving it untied for an increasingly longer time.

    Grafting a cutting into the butt done with a regular or special secateurs. The stalk and stock are cut at the same angle and connected with a tape. It is desirable that the connected branches have the same or close diameter.

    Grafting cuttings into the ground done in March and also gives good results. For this, segments up to 15-20 cm long are cut from the branches of a fruiting lemon. The lower leaves are cut off completely, leaving the petioles. 3-4 top sheet can be cut in half of the sheet plate. The end of the branch is cut obliquely with secateurs.

    The cuttings are placed in water, a few drops of the Energen preparation, intended for soaking the seeds, are added to it, and left for several hours.

    Lemon cuttings can be planted directly in the ground.

    Planting cuttings in the ground is done in the following order:

  • A mixture of sand, fertile garden soil and humus (1 part each) and 2 parts of crushed autumn leaves(or pine bark powder).
  • The earth is abundantly watered with boiling water until it acquires the consistency of thick porridge, and cooled.
  • A cutting is planted vertically in the ground, deepening it by 5 cm.
  • The soil is watered. In the future, the plant will only need spraying warm water(plus 30 ° C) once a week. If the cuttings feel good, you can not do this.
  • The branch is covered with a glass, transparent plastic jar, a plastic bag on the frame. The cover should fit snugly against the pot.
  • After the lemon grows, the greenhouse is gradually removed.
  • You should choose undersized, medium-sized and dwarf varieties of lemon. Such trees do not take up much space and do not need constant pruning.

    At home, varieties bear fruit well:

    At home, you can grow lemon varieties Lisbon, Yubileiny, etc.

    Ponderosa;

  • Dioscuria;
  • Meyer;
  • Villa Franca;
  • Pavlovsky;
  • Lunario;
  • Lisbon;
  • Nizhny Novgorod;
  • Kursk;
  • Anniversary;
  • Maykop;
  • Eureka.
  • To prevent bacteria and fungi from penetrating the wood, all cutting tools are washed with clean water and soap and sterilized. Disinfection can be done with a 1.5% chlorine bleach solution. Hands should be washed with soap before work.

    Direct sunlight should not fall on the graft and greenhouse. To create high humidity, a piece of wet cotton wool is placed under the bag. Ventilate the greenhouse daily, untying the bag for two to three minutes. Some gardeners recommend doing this twice a day.

    The vertical position of new branches grown from the scion is fixed by tying it to a vertical stick or to the trunk. Vaccination activities are done at high humidity, in rainy or cloudy weather, at dawn or after sunset.

    In the video, an experienced agronomist tells and shows how to properly plant a lemon at home.

    cveti-rasteniya.ru

    What to do if the apricot does not bear fruit?

    Apricot is rightfully considered one of the best garden trees, featuring high yields and drought resistance. It blooms in early spring, and by mid-summer the fruits ripen.

    Thanks to selective breeding, many varieties have been created that are adapted to almost any climate. But despite this, sometimes the trees stop producing crops, and gardeners are trying to understand why the apricot does not bear fruit?

    Soil, weather and diseases

    When starting to grow apricot, you first need to make sure that the selected area is suitable for this. Apricots should be planted in an area protected from the winds with constant and uniform sunlight. It is advisable to choose a hill for this, so that cold air descends to the lowland. Loamy or light loamy soils with neutral acidity should prevail in the selected area.

    On clay, heavy loamy and acidic soil, it will not work to get at least a normal crop. Apricot fruiting usually begins 3-4 years after planting. However, in the case of seedlings obtained from seeds, this period may be delayed up to 5-6 years. In this case, you can recommend just waiting for the due date. Although the apricot is a self-fertile plant, some varieties still require a second tree for pollination, otherwise fruit will not form.

    Apricot is a heat-loving plant, so it is very sensitive to frosts that occur in early spring.

    If frost occurs during the flowering period, then this year's harvest should not be expected. But there are a few tricks that can delay the flowering time and keep the flower buds from getting cold: water the apricots in November, pack the snow around them in the winter, and whiten the trunks with a solution of lime in early spring.

    Another option is to buy auxins in the store, special preparations that delay the start of flowering. In the fall, when the growth of the shoots is completed, you need to spray the trees with a solution of auxin. Some gardeners recommend smoking near the tree if frost is likely.

    The reason for the absence of fruits can be various diseases, which include:


    1. Moniliosis. A fungus, as a result of which the tree gradually dries, starting from flowers and ending with branches.
    2. Clusterosporiasis. The formation of brown spots on the leaves, eventually turning into shoots.
    3. Mushroom Wals. Formation of growths of orange color.
    4. Verticillium wilt. Yellowing of the leaves on the lower branches of the crown.
    5. Virus wilting. The appearance of light green spots on the leaves.
    6. Smallpox. fruits ripen ahead of schedule and brown spots and stripes appear on them, taste qualities are lost.
    7. In most cases, two or three percent Bordeaux mixture helps with diseases. Processing of trees should be carried out in autumn and spring, during the formation of buds.

      Wrong care

      Often the problem with the harvest lies in the improper care of the trees or neglect of them. It is solved simply, you just need to provide the apricot with regular watering, timely top dressing with fertilizers and pruning of the crown.

      Watering is carried out several times a year:


    8. in April, when the growth of shoots begins;
    9. in May;
    10. in summer, two weeks before fruit ripening;
    11. late autumn.
    12. Please note that watering should be carried out only if there was no rain during the specified period. Apricot does not like waterlogging of the soil and stagnant water.

      Organic fertilizers are used for young trees, and mineral fertilizers are required for fruit-bearing ones. In the second case, top dressing is done several times, depending on the season, different types of fertilizers are used. In the spring, nitrogen-containing compounds are introduced into the soil two or three times. Saltpeter is the most common, for each tree at least 300 g is needed. In summer, top dressing is carried out by the foliar method, on the leaves, treating them with compounds containing nitrogen and trace elements that the tree requires during this period.

      From the second half of summer, you need to stop applying nitrogen compounds, as they slow down the growth of shoots and reduce the tree's resistance to cold. In the subsequent period, potash-phosphorus fertilizers are applied, in most cases wood ash and superphosphate are used for this. The latter is introduced in an amount of about 850 g. Then you can add a little chalk to the ground, which contains calcium. Organic fertilizers for fruit-bearing trees are applied no more than once every 2 years.

      When growing an apricot, pruning is necessary for the correct formation of its crown. In addition, there is also a sanitary and rejuvenating image. Overall, this is one of critical aspects tree care. For apricots, any type of pruning can be used. However, in order to get a good harvest, it is necessary to do it in a timely manner. The double pruning method will help to increase the yield. The first stage is carried out in early spring, before the leaves begin to bloom. At this point, frozen and broken branches are removed.

      In mid-June, the time comes for the second stage, during which the apical buds are removed. Due to this, the growth of shoots is accelerated, on which flowers and fruits will form next year. In addition, the apricot receives protection from spring frosts, as the flowering period is postponed by several days.

      During normal pruning, skeletal branches should not be touched; only growing shoots should be shortened.

      However, if the tree is old and its yields are declining, then rejuvenating pruning is necessary. During this procedure, the skeletal and overgrowing branches in the upper part of the tree are shortened. After that, the number of flowers in the spring will increase and the yield will return to normal.

      How to plant a lemon at home for fruiting

      When to Plant a Lemon

      Lemon grafting at home requires careful preparation - you need to stock up on everything essential tool, get a stock and, importantly, choose the right time for the procedure. Inoculation of indoor lemons is best done when the plants begin a period of active sap flow - this usually happens in the spring, from early April to early May.

      What materials will be needed

      Planting a homemade lemon is not difficult if you have all the necessary tools:

    • a sharp or special knife designed for budding;
    • garden knife:
    • polyethylene tape;
    • secateurs (in case you need to cut thick branches);
    • garden pitch (can be replaced with drying oil);
    • a plastic bag or bag (to create a miniature greenhouse);
    • ordinary non-sterile cotton wool.
    • And, of course, the rootstock itself, with which you will plant a lemon tree.

      Rootstock selection

      Before planting a lemon at home, you should thoroughly understand the intricacies of the procedure, and especially decide on the choice of stock. The main thing here is that the scion should ideally match the stock, otherwise there will be no success. Often, trifoliata is used for these purposes - a plant, although it does not have much in common with a lemon, but belongs to the same family.

      But, given the fact that trifoliata is not an evergreen tree, but sheds leaves before winter sleep, lemons grafted onto it must be provided the necessary conditions content - lower the air temperature in the room with the tree to +5 degrees Celsius. This is easy to achieve by sending the culture to a glazed loggia.

      When choosing a scion, in addition to lemon, pay attention to mandarin, grapefruit or orange seedlings. The only condition is to try to use a low-growing stock to avoid excessive growth of the tree in the future. For these purposes, it is better to use orange or bigaradium - they belong to the same genus as lemon.

      Or you can do it even easier and use ordinary rooted seedlings as a stock, which have undergone a special procedure: at a height of about 10 cm from the root collar, a ring of bark, about 1.5 cm wide, is removed with a sharp knife for budding, and the removed pieces are wound back, only the other side. Due to this, the process of sap flow in the plant slows down, therefore, the crown does not grow so quickly. To maintain such artificial dwarfism, the procedure is done regularly, once every 5-7 years.

      And the last thing: use a scion only from fruit-bearing trees, otherwise all efforts may remain ineffective.

      Grafting method

      Before planting a lemon at home, decide on the most appropriate procedure. There are several of them:

    • budding is the safest and affordable way. Be sure to do this procedure in conditions of high humidity - otherwise the kidney may dry out and not take root. The grafting site is chosen in such a way that it is located on the most even section of the trunk and not lower than 10 cm from the soil surface. The boundary values ​​​​for the incision are as follows: horizontally it should not be more than 1 cm, vertically - no more than 3 cm. After a few weeks, it is already possible to determine whether the cuttings have taken root - if they have not dried out, then everything is in order;
    • cutting. A homemade lemon grown from seed can be grafted in a different way. In this case, you need to use a well-developed cutting from a fruit-bearing tree. A split about 3 cm deep is made in the stock, into which the cuttings are inserted. It is important that the edges of the bark of both plants coincide - then the chances of a favorable outcome will increase.
    • Step-by-step instruction

      Let's take a closer look at how to plant a room lemon in each of these ways.

    It happens that homemade lemon does not bloom and does not bear fruit. Having carefully studied the main reasons that affect the flowering of a tree, you will learn what to do in each case and be able to stop the negative process in time.

    If a homemade lemon does not bear fruit and does not bloom, you should find out the reason

    Illiterate watering

    Regular watering is an important point in caring for a citrus tree.

    If watering is carried out irregularly and in small doses, the plant will not bloom. The tree hardly tolerates the drying of the earth. If this happens, the plant will drop buds and foliage to retain moisture.

    Abundant watering is no less harmful; soil compaction in the ground can be observed. The root system suffers because it cannot obtain nutrients. If you want your lemon to bloom, you should not allow the soil to dry out and the moisture in it to solidify. Spraying is also an important procedure.

    Lack of sunlight

    1. The reason why the lemon does not bloom may be insufficient lighting.
    2. Citrus should be located in the southwest.
    3. In summer, it is worth moving the plant to a glazed balcony, where there are no drafts. Direct sunlight can cause leaf burns.

    Vitamin deficiency

    Citrus crops do not bloom without top dressing. With active growth, nutrients are added twice a month. Pauses are made in winter time. On sale you can find complex formulations specifically for this culture.

    It should be remembered: lemons do not bloom without top dressing!

    With a lack of nitrogen, the plant sheds flowers, with a lack of calcium - ovaries, and fruit ripening is very slow.

    Transfer errors

    Another reason why a lemon does not bloom at home is an untimely plant transplant. It is important to comply with the following requirements:

    • transplant the plant once every few years;
    • transplant before the growing season.

    If the requirements listed above are not met, then the lemon becomes cramped and will not bloom.

    The impact of pests and diseases on citrus

    by the most dangerous disease for a citrus crop, it is a fungus, because the tree is constantly in the moisture it needs for development. It is important to monitor the level of moisture and the frequency of watering to prevent the reproduction of a fungal infection.

    The lemon tree suffers from spider mites, scale insects, thrips. You can eliminate the spider mite with the help of Aktellik, and the scale insects and thrips are afraid of soapy water.

    Provide comfortable conditions

    Caring for a lemon tree includes providing the necessary conditions. If the conditions for the plant are chosen illiterately, then you should not hope for its flowering and fruiting.

    Try to make sure that the soil for the lemon tree is as correct as possible. It happens that the culture is planted in acidic or alkaline soil. In this case, the plant may wither and lose flowers. A litmus test will help you find out the acidity of the soil.

    Plant stress can be abrupt change conditions of detention: moving from shade to light, moving from home to street. The tree does not have time to adapt to unusual conditions for it, stress negatively affects flowering. It is very important to change conditions gradually.

    Now you know exactly how to provide the right conditions for a lemon tree and how to make a lemon bloom.

    Light, temperature and humidity are the main conditions for growing a citrus tree. It is possible to create favorable conditions for lemon at home.

    A sharp change in the conditions of detention is unacceptable, for example, rearrangement or removal to the street - the plant may stop blooming.

    Health and Immunity

    Viruses and bacteria are one of the causes of tree diseases. Some of them are carried by insects, others are spread through the air and can start in a plant pot due to lack of oxygen. Weakening of the immune system is the most common homemade lemon disease, and the person himself is often to blame for this.

    Main reasons:

    • Poor quality soil.
    • Unfavorable conditions such as high temperature or humidity.
    • Improper watering and/or fertilization.

    Proper conditions of maintenance and care

    1. Lemon prefers a long daylight hours - for this it is necessary to properly position the tree in the apartment (for example, east or west windows). In winter, the plant should be placed closer to the window and illuminated with a phytolamp 5-6 hours a day. In summer, the tree should not be exposed to drafts and direct sunlight.
    2. The plant does not tolerate heat. Optimum temperature at room conditions - from 18 to 20 ° in summer and 12-15 ° in winter. Lemon does not tolerate a sharp change in temperature, so during the winter dormancy, the tree can be watered with lukewarm water.
    3. In the room where the citrus is located, the air should be well humidified, for this the room must be systematically ventilated, and a container of water should be placed next to the plant.

      Spray the lemon once or twice a week.

    Flowering and fruiting times

    Many are interested in when a room lemon should begin to bloom and bear fruit. It turns out that it can bloom already in the first year of life, however, it is recommended to cut off the flowers while still in buds, since flowering greatly depletes the young plant and can kill it. It is recommended to allow fruiting when the tree already has at least 20 leaves.

    Myself the period from the beginning of flowering to fruiting takes 6-8 months(depending on the variety) while maintaining the necessary conditions. Homemade lemon blooms twice a year - in winter and autumn. After planting, the tree will be able to please with fruits only after three to four years.

    With proper care, lemons at home can bloom and bear fruit for about 40 years. The main factor in the life of a plant is your concern, since the life of a tree can always be extended with the help of air layering, cuttings and grafting onto other plants.

    Why does the plant at home not produce a crop?

    There may be several reasons for the absence of homemade lemon fruits, for example:

    • If the citrus is grown from seed, the plant must be grafted and wait a few years before flowering begins.
    • Pests and bacteria.
    • Dry air or high humidity.
    • Poor soil, lack of fertilizers and minerals.

    Wrong care

    However, the main reason why indoor lemon does not bear fruit is the wrong plant conditions:

    1. High or low room temperature. The optimum indoor temperature for growing a lemon tree is between 18 and 20 degrees Celsius.
    2. Wrong watering. You need to water the lemon regularly, with previously settled water, so that all the chlorine has time to disappear from it. In summer and spring 2 times a day, in winter - 2 times a week. The temperature for watering should be room temperature.
    3. Lack of fertilizer. Homemade lemon is fertilized during the active flowering period from March to September, once or twice every two weeks, otherwise the tree will lose color. During winter dormancy and in the presence of diseases, the plant should not be fed.
    4. Wrong location and lighting. Lemon is recommended to be placed closer to sunlight. An excellent option would be rooms whose windows face west or east; an insulated loggia is also suitable.

      But it should be borne in mind that citruses are afraid of drafts, especially during flowering. In the hot period, the tree must be shaded. The sun's rays on the plant are unacceptable, this will lead to burns of the leaves.

    5. Wrong ground.
      • It is better to prepare the soil yourself (earth, leaf humus and sand in equal proportions).
      • You can not pour layers of different parts of the soil.
      • The earth should be loose, without lumps.
      • Drainage can be added to the soil to provide the roots with oxygen.
      • The level of soil acidity is not more than 7 (pH = 7), determined using an ion meter.
      • The soil must be fertilized regularly.
      • Once every two years, a citrus tree is transplanted with a complete replacement of the soil.
    6. Bad pollination. Lemon fruiting will occur without any intervention on your part. If you want to get a bountiful harvest, you need to use a cotton swab to shake the pollen from the stamens onto the pistil.

      It is worth acting carefully, as there is a high risk of damage to the flowers. The procedure should be repeated in the next couple of days. The tree can bear fruit with or without pollination, but in the latter case, seeds are not formed in the lemon fruit.

    7. Too abundant flowering. A large number of flowers takes a lot of energy from the plant. It is necessary to periodically remove excess ovaries so that the citrus can bear fruit.

    When will a seed-grown culture bear fruit without grafting?

    A lemon tree grown from seed, without grafting, will become fruitful only 12-14 years after planting. To accelerate fruiting, the plant must be grafted.

    How to get vaccinated?

    There are two ways to graft a citrus tree:

    • Budding is the safest method. A young and strong lemon bud is placed under the bark of a young seedling. This method has high percent survival rate.
    • Copulation- a more traumatic method for the plant. The cuttings of the fruit-bearing lemon and the mother tree are cut at an acute angle with a special, disinfected tool and fixed to each other. It is important that there is no bare wood after grafting.

    Can the age of the crop be the reason for the lack of yield?

    An old lemon may not bear fruit for the same reason as a young one - improper conditions.

    Lemon tree lives and actively bears fruit up to 40-50 years the main thing is to take good care of it.

    A young plant, on the contrary, will not bear fruit for the first few years. Grafted lemon grown from cuttings right conditions will give the first fruits in 3-4 years, and the one that sprouted from the seed may not bear fruit even after 10 years.

    Can I make a lemon tree bloom or not and how?

    Proper care contributes to the proper development of a lemon tree. There are several ways to make a plant bloom:

    1. You can create extreme conditions. For example, perform a short pruning or slightly damage the bark of a lemon tree by tapping it with a stick or other object. You can also hang a small load on vertical branches so that the branches take a horizontal position. In this case, the tension of the bark will contribute to flowering in a stressful situation.
    2. Crown formation. At home, it is recommended to form a tree in a flat shape. To do this, you need to cut and carefully break off the shoots to the windowsill. After the dimensions of the window opening and the crown become the same, pinching or even trimming is carried out. With this type of crown, the lemon will feel great and will be able to give a good harvest. The main thing is to have time to form a crown before fruiting begins.
    3. Pulling branches. Branches need to be pulled together with soft wire at the beginning of sap flow - in order to concentrate nutrients in them that will be useful during the next flowering. In November, the plant is freed from the garter.

    What to do when buds appear?

    With the appearance of the first flowers, the citrus tree should be kept at the optimum temperature (16-18 degrees). Also, you need to regulate the number of ovaries and avoid overload, especially during the first flowering. From the beginning of flowering until autumn, the plant is given weak top dressing using organic and mineral fertilizers. Watering a lemon tree during flowering is necessary twice a day.

    Causes of falling ovaries

    There are several reasons why the plant blooms violently, but does not bear fruit.:

    • Inappropriate temperature and lighting.
    • The age of the tree - perhaps the lemon is still too young to bear fruit.
    • Too poor soil, lack of complementary foods and fertilizers.
    • Inconsistency in the number of flowers and leaves (one flower for two dozen leaves; cut off the rest while still in buds).
    • Dryness of the soil or, conversely, overflow.
    • Incorrect pollination (carefully transfer pollen with a cotton swab from bud to bud).

    In this way, making a lemon bloom and bear fruit at home is quite difficult, but interesting. If you follow all the above recommendations and seriously approach the cultivation of a plant, it will surely thank you with lush flowering and many fruits.

    If you find an error, please highlight a piece of text and click Ctrl+Enter.

    I bought my first lemon on vacation in Anapa, in 2005. It was a cutting with two cut leaf blades, rooted in a disposable cup.
    When I got home, I changed it. But after the transplant, my lemon did not grow at all, wintered badly and constantly shed its leaves.
    I was already desperate that this plant would be able to recover. And then I even decided that I would no longer bring lemon home after a summer stay on the veranda.

    And in 2009 I was again in Anapa and brought back a small lemon tree from there.
    But what was my surprise when I went to the veranda and saw that my first lemon was all in leaves and blooming!

    Now I know about my main mistake in caring for this plant. Lemons should never be rotated. And I, on the contrary, used to always twirl it - I thought that with uniform lighting of the lemon, its crown would be more magnificent.

    As a result, the first lemon did not winter on my veranda, I just brought it into the house later than all the other flowers in autumn (in September).
    It turned out that before flowering, I left it alone for a while. Haven't moved or turned over the lemon pot on the porch for over 3 months. So he answered me with lush foliage and flowering ...

    Now I have a mark on the pots of lemons (so that, for example, after spraying, put the pot correctly).
    Both lemons grow on the east window, and under this window there is no radiator.

    After I started to properly care for lemons, now there are no problems with them. I harvest them regularly.
    So far, I leave only one lemon to ripen on each plant. The fact is that if a lemon tree is small and has few leaves, then it cannot be overloaded with fruits. Especially if the fruits are large enough and heavy. For example, last year the most massive fruit of my lemon weighed 420 g.

    Both of these lemons are now, in December (2011), overwintering with ripening fruits.

    Natalia Egorova ( Krasnoyarsk region, Boguchansky district)

    Lemon does not tolerate sudden temperature fluctuations

    I started growing a lemon tree a few years ago when I became interested in indoor Pavlovsk lemons. A friend gave me a lemon stalk.

    I planted the donated stalk in a pot of sand, created a favorable microclimate for the lemon to root. Soon the stalk successfully accepted and started to grow.
    Every spring, I transplanted the developing lemon into suitable larger pots.

    This lemon has grown in me to a meter height, with a very sprawling crown - it even ceased to fit on the windowsill.
    I had to transplant large plant into a 10-liter galvanized bucket, punching several drainage holes in the bottom.

    I carefully looked after the lemon in the house, regularly moistened its leaves. And after 2 years, my lemon blossomed for the first time - I was glad!
    However, all the flowers of the lemon soon fell off, without forming ovaries.

    The next year, the lemon blossomed again. Then I suddenly remembered how my mother manually pollinated the flowers of plants. And I decided to do the same with my lemon.
    After artificial pollination of lemon flowers, the first fruits began to appear.
    But here again, failure: only three ovaries did not fall off and began to develop further.

    My first lemons ripened for exactly 9 months - until they turned yellow and fell off by themselves. I didn't cut the fruit on purpose. I was waiting for how long they would ripen, and what mass they would gain.
    The lemons from my tree tasted the same as those bought in the store. And they weighed about 150g.

    Inspired by such success, the next spring I put the lemon on the balcony. I thought that here for this light-loving and heat-loving plant there will be more favorable conditions than in the house.
    And indeed, my lemon bloomed profusely on the balcony, and then a lot of ovaries formed on the tree.
    But now autumn has come. And when I brought the lemon into the room, all its leaves and fruits fell off. My tree is dry.

    At that time, I could not understand why my lemon suddenly died, completely healthy and fruitful. Then I read in the library book the reason for this.
    It turns out that the lemon tree does not tolerate sharp fluctuations in the temperature of the content.
    Therefore, when transferring a plant to the garden for the summer or placing a lemon on a balcony, when autumn approaches, you need to carefully monitor the weather. If there is a threat of a cold snap, it is necessary to bring the tree into the room in advance so as not to expose the lemon to a dangerous temperature shock.

    I hope that my experience of growing lemon will help other citrus plant lovers avoid the same mistake.

    Favorable wintering and natural top dressing of lemon

    Beginning citrus growers often find that their plants lose their leaves in winter and rarely bloom.
    I want to tell the readers of Gardenia.ru about the conditions for keeping my lemon in the winter. I don’t know its variety, once they gave a cutting.
    Now my lemon tree has become a tree about 60 cm high, growing in a 5 liter pot.

    In winter, I have a lemon on my kitchen windowsill, where there are no radiators. The window is constantly open for ventilation. And so that the tree on the window would not fall under the stream of cold air, I protected it from a draft. I attached a cellophane film, blocking off the corner with a lemon.

    I water the lemon in the winter about once a month, but I spill it well. At the same time, I remove the film for a day, and spray the leaves.
    And I try not to rotate the lemon relative to the light source.

    By the way, in winter it is very convenient to prepare natural fertilizer for lemon in the house. I have a jar of soil adapted for this. I put the scales and bone remains from raw fish. Periodically mix the contents of the jar; there is no bad smell. There is this jar, closed with a lid, on the battery pipe. And yet, there lives an earthworm.
    So, during the winter, I get humus rich in phosphorus, which is an excellent top dressing. I reseed it, and then I replace the top layer of soil in a pot with lemon with this nutritious humus.

    My lemon really likes this treatment. Its flowering and fruiting is constant, and the tree never shed its leaves.

    Problems when growing indoor lemon

    When growing indoor lemon, in some cases there are problems associated with improper care and maintenance of this whimsical plant. By eliminating the cause of the disease of the tree, you can regularly get a rich harvest of fruits. Failure to follow the recommendations for care can lead to the death of citrus.

    Why do lemon leaves turn yellow, fall off and curl up

    Often, gardeners are faced with the fact that lemon leaves turn yellow. There may be several reasons why a lemon turns yellow. Possible reasons could be a lack of light or nutrients, as nutrition is very important for citrus crops. For the full development, growth and fruit setting, elements such as nitrogen, phosphorus, iron, potassium, magnesium, sulfur, calcium are necessary. Nitrogen contributes to healthy leaf color. Calcium is responsible for the development of the root system. Phosphorus is involved in the construction of plant cells, improves the quality of fruits, increases their content of sugar, vitamins and trace elements. Potassium promotes better absorption of nitrogen, accelerates the ripening of lignified shoots and ripening of fruits, and increases the resistance of lemon to diseases. Timely application of fertilizers containing the above elements in its composition will help prevent yellowing, wilting and leaf fall. At the same time, the taste of the fruit will increase significantly.

    Lighting plays an important role in the formation of a healthy tree. Citrus, like any other plant in the tropics, needs 12 hours of daylight, so the lemon is placed on the south, southwest and southeast windows. If necessary, use additional lighting.

    Another reason why lemon leaves turn yellow is an excess of light. When direct sunlight hits the plant, or its prolonged exposure to the sun leads to the formation of yellow spots on the leaf plates - miniature burns that the tree can cope with on its own if it is placed in a shaded or semi-shaded place. If this is not done, the lemon will completely shed its foliage and die.

    This culture is moisture-loving. Needs regular, abundant watering and high humidity (70-90%). In extreme heat or excessively dry indoor air, the edges of citrus leaves begin to turn yellow. To prevent this, you need to spray the tree daily with a spray bottle, and also use a humidifier. You can put a container filled with water next to the lemon.

    Dry air is often the reason why lemon leaves curl.

    In some cases, the leaves turn yellow at the base, after which they fall off. This can be facilitated by moisture accumulating in the soil and negatively affecting the root system. With prolonged stagnation of moisture, the roots begin to rot, and the earth acquires an unpleasant odor. In this case, it is necessary to transplant the plant into another container filled with fresh soil. Pebbles or expanded clay are preliminarily laid at the bottom, which will provide good drainage. Before transplanting, the roots that have undergone decay are removed. Then the root system is treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate to destroy putrefactive bacteria. After that, the lemon is planted in fresh soil.

    Sometimes lemon leaves turn yellow at the edges and curl with sudden changes in room temperature. In the same way, citrus reacts to drafts, so a pot of lemon should not be placed near a window or door.

    Turning on heaters can also lead to yellowing of lemon leaves.

    Why does a lemon shed its leaves

    At different times of the year, citrus sheds leaves, but more often this can be observed in the autumn-winter period. The reasons why lemon leaves fall are usually associated with unfavorable tree conditions.

    With a lack of light, the plant is depleted and begins to lose foliage. Quite often this happens in winter. In this case, additional illumination with special lamps is required.

    Other reasons why a lemon sheds leaves are dry indoor air, lack of nutrition, insufficient watering, a cramped pot, hypothermia of the roots, acidification of the soil, a sudden change in location, premature flowering. To eliminate this problem, you need to provide the plant with regular watering and timely fertilization. If the pot has become cramped, the tree is transplanted into a larger container. To prevent hypothermia of the root system, you should water the citrus with water at room temperature or a little warmer. Do not keep it on a cold windowsill. It is important to regularly monitor the condition of the soil and its moisture content. With an excess of moisture, the roots begin to rot, which leads to the shedding of leaves.

    When transplanting a tree into a larger pot, acidification of the soil may occur. To avoid this, the new pot should be 2-4 cm larger in diameter than the previous one. Often, the leaves fall off immediately after transplantation, so lemons are initially planted in spacious containers.

    Since the lemon quickly gets used to its permanent place, it reacts negatively to the rearrangement and hardly gets used to new conditions, as a result of which it can lose foliage.

    Citrus leaves can fall off under the influence of pathogens and various pests, such as scale insects or spider mites. In order to timely identify and eliminate pests, it is recommended to periodically inspect the tree.

    What to do if a lemon dropped its leaves? In some cases, the plant recovers on its own. However, it is necessary to exclude all possible causes: prevent drafts, ensure timely watering, optimal air humidity. Fertilizer is applied only if the plant is healthy. If the tree was moved to another place, you need to return it to its original place.

    Why homemade lemon does not bloom

    Sometimes it happens that citrus does not bloom for a very long time. In this case, the tree can be pushed to bloom by grafting with a cultivated cutting. After that, the flowers will appear in 2-3 years. The reason why homemade lemon does not bloom may be the lack of a cool wintering (at a temperature of 12-15 ° C), when flower buds are laid in the plant. In a warm room, without a dormant period, citrus may not bloom. In addition, the tree may lack trace elements.

    Very rarely, lemons grown from the stone bloom and bear fruit. To achieve flowering, it is necessary to graft a branch of a fruiting plant. Flowering will come in 3-4 years.

    When planting a lemon, you should be aware that some varieties bloom annually, while others once every 4-5 years.

    Why Lemon Doesn't Fruit

    It happens that the tree blooms, but does not bear fruit. Why doesn't a lemon bear fruit? There may be several reasons for this. The most common of these are lack of nutrients, low humidity, lack of light.

    With insufficient feeding, the ovary, which has developed to the size of a walnut, crumbles. Sometimes, with poor feeding, the ovary ripens, but the fruits remain small.

    The lack of fruiting may be due to poor pollination. In this case, you need to pollinate the flowers with a cotton swab, transferring pollen from one flower to another.

    To get a rich harvest of lemons, you need to create all the necessary conditions for the tree and provide proper care. So, for example, in the absence of a dormant state, the development of a plant is disrupted, which directly affects its fruiting.

    Why do the ovaries and fruits of lemons fall

    It happens that citrus blossomed, but the ovaries crumbled. Why do lemon ovaries fall off? Most often this happens due to dry air, in the presence of drafts, excess moisture, as well as a lack of nutrients. Falling of the ovary can cause scale insects and spider mites.

    Why do lemon fruits fall off? During fruiting, citrus reacts painfully to even a slight lack of nutrients, as a result of which its yield decreases.

    To get a good harvest, potash fertilizers are applied to the soil in the autumn. You can prepare a solution of water (1 liter) and wood ash (2-3 tablespoons).

    It is also worth bearing in mind that a tree drops its ovary when it feels that it is not ready to bear fruit. It is believed that each fruit should have 10 leaves. If there are fewer of them, after flowering, the excess ovary is removed.

    It is important to correctly form the load of future fruits. Remove excess flowers, leaving 1-2 flowers on the side branches.

    Subject to all the rules of care, the question "why lemons fall" will no longer arise.

    Why the lemon dries up and the branches dry

    Often, gardeners ask themselves the question “why does a lemon dry up?” This situation occurs when there is a lack of moisture, excessively dry air, stagnant water in the soil, or poor lighting. A possible cause should be eliminated and after a while the tree will recover.

    Why do lemon branches dry? This may be due to a lack or excess of moisture. Often, dried branches indicate an invasion of a spider mite.

    It happens that the branches dry up in winter. In most cases, this indicates that the plant is acclimatizing. In this case, dried shoots are removed in early spring, new ones will appear instead.

    Another reason why the lemon dries is the lack of trace elements. It is recommended to alternate fertilizing with nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium or use a balanced fertilizer containing micro and macro elements, necessary for the plant. Citrus responds well to feeding "Root feeder". As a result of its use, the tree pleases with a healthy appearance and a rich harvest.

    What happened and why the lemon does not bloom at home

    Wrong watering

    Lemon will not bloom (or drop the buds that have appeared) if it is not provided with sufficient regular watering. The plant belongs to the category of moisture-loving, therefore it does not tolerate the drying of an earthen coma. If this happens, the tree will most likely get rid of buds or ovaries, and sometimes even part of the foliage, in order to save the missing moisture to ensure the main life processes.

    Excessive watering is also equally harmful: then the soil in the pot is compacted, and the root system of the plant is no longer able to extract nutrients from it. In order for the lemon to bloom, it is necessary to keep the soil in the container with it constantly slightly moistened, preventing drying out or moisture stagnation. It will also be useful to spray the tree - high humidity the surrounding year will be to the liking of your pet.

    Lack of sunlight

    Another reason that answers the question why indoor lemon does not bloom lies in the violation of the lighting regime. Without enough light, not a single flower will appear on your lemon, unfortunately. Citrus fruits are extremely thermophilic, so the window sill on which you decide to place the tree should be well lit: it is better if the window is oriented to the south or southwest.

    AT summer months it would be useful to move the plant to a glazed loggia, taking care of the absence of drafts. True, you should not place the pot in direct sunlight - you can provoke the appearance of burns on the leaves, and then you will have to think not about how to make your lemon bloom, but about how to save it from death.

    Deficiency of vitamins and minerals

    Caring for a lemon, like any other indoor plants, requires mandatory and regular feeding - without sufficient nutrition, citrus trees, as a rule, do not bloom. During the active growth of the tree, nutrient mixtures must be applied twice a month, with obligatory pauses for the period of winter dormancy. On sale there are complex fertilizers specially designed for citrus fruits, thanks to which top dressing and caring for lemon at home is not particularly difficult.

    But still, keep an eye on your tree - it will definitely tell you if problems arise: for example, with a lack of nitrogen, a flowering lemon drops its color, and the flowers themselves turn pale, and a lack of calcium slows down the formation of the ovary and ripening of the fruit.

    Untimely transplant

    Sometimes the absence of flowers on a tree may be due to untimely relocation of the plant. Young lemons should be replanted annually in the spring, until they reach three years of age. It is noteworthy that during this time your pet should fully master the earthen clod in a pot, and you just have to transfer it to a larger container. Further, the matured lemon is transplanted once every few years, and it is better to do this before the start of the growing season. If these requirements are not met, the lemon is simply cramped in a small pot - naturally, the answer to the question why such a lemon does not bloom at home is absolutely obvious.

    Pests and diseases

    If we talk about diseases, then the greatest danger to a lemon, including during flowering, is fungal infections(taking into account the constantly increased level of humidity necessary for the normal development of the plant). Try to control moisture and watering intensity to prevent such a problem from occurring.

    Turning to the topic of pests, it can be noted that the homemade lemon tree suffers from the same insects as other plants - these are spider mites, scale insects and thrips. As you know, about any flowering, and even more so - fruiting, there can be no question if the plant is not healthy. You need to fight pests in traditional ways: to get rid of spider mites, lemon leaves should be treated with a solution of Actellik, scale insects and thrips can be washed off with soapy water.

    Now you know how to care for your lemon in order not only to wait for abundant flowering, but also to get such a cherished and long-awaited harvest. Try to comply with all the requirements that citrus puts forward for you, carefully monitor the slightest changes in the state of your plant, and you will definitely achieve unprecedented success in the difficult task of growing lemons in an ordinary city apartment. And how pleasant it is to drink your favorite tea, when a slice of fragrant fruit, grown not somewhere in hot countries, but on your own windowsill, fervently turns yellow in a cup with a drink!

    Video "How to help a lemon bloom"

    In this video, you will learn how to help a lemon start blooming.

    Why lemon does not bloom at home and how to fix it

    Violation of agricultural technology

    Caring for an indoor lemon is a rather painstaking business, you must follow certain requirements and rules in order to see how your pet blooms. It is easiest to make mistakes in agricultural technology, and in this case you may not see a flowering lemon. Let's take a closer look at why the lemon does not bloom at home.

    Wrong watering. Lemon will not bloom if it is not provided with the necessary watering. This plant loves moisture very much, therefore, when the soil dries out, it can get rid of buds (if this happened during flowering) or even fruits that are rapidly tied. All this it does in order to compensate for the missing resources. Therefore, it is better not to allow the drying of an earthen coma.

    However, it is also not worth pouring water on the tree, it is no less harmful. These actions lead to the compaction of the soil in the pot, in which case the plant is no longer able to extract nutrients from it.

    How to make a lemon bloom in this case? To avoid problems with moisture, it is recommended to always keep the soil in a slightly moist state. It is also recommended to spray the tree from time to time to maintain the humidity at the proper level.

    Late transplant. Perhaps it will seem to some that it will be enough to transplant a lemon once - immediately after purchase. However, it is not. Since the plant is quite demanding on the conditions of detention, it will need a regular transplant every year for the first three years. In the future, the plant is transplanted no earlier than once every few years, and this is done before flowering begins and fruits are set.

    In general, during the period that the tree will be in a new pot, it will have time to take root there and get comfortable in a new place. Therefore, when transplanting, just pick up a bigger pot for him, the earthen room itself, in which he grew up before, can be left. Naturally, if this is not done on time, your pet is unlikely to bloom in cramped quarters.

    Inappropriate Conditions

    In addition to observing agricultural technology, caring for a lemon involves providing it with good conditions. Otherwise, he will not please you with a single flower.

    Unsuitable soil. If the land where the tree was planted is strongly acidic or alkaline, your pet begins to wither and lose flowers. In order to determine the acidity of the soil, it is enough to use litmus paper. If this was indeed the problem, it is necessary to give it a slightly acidic reaction.

    a lack of sunlight. This plant is very thermophilic, so for optimal development it needs a sufficient amount of sunlight. Without it, beautiful flowers should not be expected. It is best to place it on a window that is oriented to the south or southwest.

    And remember that it is better not to expose your pet to direct sunlight - this is fraught with sunburn, and then you already have to think about how to reanimate the poor plant. Then you don't have to ask why the lemon doesn't bloom.

    Watering cold water. Flowers and trees are usually watered with warm water. The lemon tree is also no exception to the rule - watering it with cold water will negate all attempts by the tree to bloom.

    A sharp change in conditions of detention. A sudden change of scenery has a detrimental effect on this citrus tree. For example, you decide to rearrange your pet in the sun, although before that he always stood in the shade. Or taken to the street indoor plant without tempering it before. Naturally, if the change of scenery occurs so abruptly, the tree simply does not have time to adapt to new conditions. It is because of this "stress" that it can stop blooming. Therefore, if you decide to change the conditions of detention, do it gradually so as not to provoke stressful situations.

    Lack of vitamins and minerals

    It is imperative to feed your pet - after all, for full growth and development, he needs the nutrients that he receives through regular feeding. Fertilize the tree twice a month (during the active growth phase), and take a short break for the winter.

    The reason why the plant may either not bloom, or begin to shed fruits that have already set, is the lack of manganese and boron. You should compensate for the lack of these elements by purchasing citrus mixes in stores.

    Diseases and pests

    Fungal diseases can develop due to too high level humidity and are treated with copper sulphate (late blight), soapy water (soot fungus) and Bordeaux liquid (mold).

    Pests (spider mites, thrips, scale insects) must be removed mechanically or washed off the leaves with soapy water. You can also use a variety of insecticides.

    From this video you will learn how to help a lemon bloom at home.

    Reasons for the absence of flowers on a homemade lemon

    Home plants not only decorate the house, but can also become a real curiosity in a green corner. Lemon is a beautiful flowering tree that produces useful fruits. From one healthy tree you can get a dozen lemons in a year. Why doesn't lemon bloom at home? A question that worries both people with experience and beginners who planted a fruitful plant for the first time. decorative tree at home. There are few reasons why inflorescences did not appear on the lemon. Look for the problem in external environment or among possible diseases, after which the tree slowly fades.

    Lemon has beautiful flowers, but requires special conditions for them to appear.

    Why ovaries do not appear

    The lemon tree always stands out in the background ornamental plants, and fresh fruits can be collected and eaten by the whole family. The culture bears fruit already in the second year, after a person correctly plants the stalk and fertilizes the soil. Tree care includes many activities that take place throughout the year, and sorting out all the diseases of a lemon or the causes of wilting is difficult. What to do if the first inflorescences did not appear on the green branches?

    It is necessary to find out the cause of the disease and eliminate it. The fruit-bearing tree problem can arise at any time of the year with a young plant or with an old tree that has always been fruitful. The reasons that affect the proper growth of a lemon are either temporary or permanent. Changes in care or fertilizer often lead to a sharp deterioration in the condition of the tree. Withering leaves, the absence of inflorescences, or the appearance of small bitter fruits are alarming signals for the grower about the appearance of serious problems.

    A sick lemon gives small and bitter fruits.

    Wrong care

    Flower growers proudly plant a lemon tree. Such a plant requires a lot of care and grows for more than one year before it begins to bear the first fruits. Improper conditions or pests prevent the tree from growing and bearing fruit. Why doesn't a lemon bear fruit? If the lemon has not bloomed, you should consider a few probable causes such a negative thing:

    • poor watering;
    • insufficient amount of sunlight;
    • lack of vitamins or mineral fertilizers;
    • improper plant transplant.

    Before you start a fruitful tree that can be put on the windowsill, it is worth studying the conditions for keeping citrus for its rapid and proper growth.

    AT daily care the lemon tree is not needed. Lemon loves sun and moisture, but only in limited quantities.

    Wrong watering

    The lemon will not bloom or will abruptly drop the color that has already appeared if the person has incorrectly organized the watering of the plant. Excessive watering harms the root system, and due to hot weather, green leaves quickly wither. But a dry earthen ball is the worst thing that can happen to the soil in which the rhizome of a lemon grows. A moisture-loving plant needs constant moistening not only of the soil, but also of the green part of the tree. Experienced flower growers irrigate the leaves with a spray bottle at least once a week.

    Regular watering will prevent dropping flowers

    A tree that doesn't get enough moisture drops its buds so they don't take the last moisture from the stems. After the buds, the foliage immediately falls. According to such characteristic "symptoms", it is easy to understand what is the reason for the fallen inflorescences. The reverse situation can also be observed in cases where a person literally fills a pot with a plant with a large amount of water. Due to an excess of moisture, the soil thickens, and the roots can no longer absorb water. Rotting roots and fallen flowers are difficult to salvage.

    Unsuitable fertilizer

    Problems with fruiting are often associated with the choice of fertilizer. Do-it-yourself feeding for the root system or buying ready-made fertilizers - the choice remains with the grower, but the quality of the selected substances depends on how the lemon will bear fruit.

    Tree care without fail includes fertilizing the soil at any time of the year. Citrus plants need constant feeding, otherwise their root system weakens. A bad rhizome does not allow new inflorescences to arise, and good tree does not bear any fruit. The best option is to feed the tree twice a month and constant watering several times a week. In winter, the amount of fertilizer is reduced, because the lemon slows down all processes.

    To strengthen citrus, complex fertilizers are needed, which are easy to buy in specialized stores. A strong root system will allow the tree to bloom in due time, and soon a person will be able to harvest the first crop.

    You can buy lemon fertilizer at the store or make your own.

    Lack of sunlight

    A disturbed lighting regime is a common reason for the absence of flowers on lemon stems. Without good lighting, inflorescences simply do not arise. It will be possible to correct the situation if you rearrange the tree to another window sill with better natural light. In the cold season, special lamps are installed around the lemon. In summer, the pots are taken out into the street, but they are left where there are no drafts. Covered loggias or balconies are suitable for summer airing of the plant.

    Problems of another kind, leading to the fact that inflorescences do not arise, relate to pests. Diseases that harm the lemon tree contribute not only to shedding of leaves or flowers, but also to the death of the entire plant. The absence of white flowers is a consequence of a fungal disease, and not the main problem.

    Infections and fungi multiply rapidly against the background of frequent watering of the plant. A humid environment is the most favorable for the activity of dangerous microorganisms.

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